ddiaz396

new 1956 Super owner

Recommended Posts

Hi everybody!!! I'm new here.....just purchased a 1956 Buick Super 322 nailhead and I need help!! The car was in a shed for many years, after talking to the owner he agreed to sell the car to me. Took the car home and after long hours working on it, finally I started it!! Did a rebuild fuel pump, rebuild carburetor, clean points and with the help of an auxiliary tank it come alive......lots of smoke,bad idling, etc when it warm out star to sound better except for a rattling noise, I think , coming from the transmission. Also I had to play with the shifter before a could started it. When the car was idling a guess got in gear and almost run over my dog!! With the help of two towers I raised the rear wheels tryed to start it again and notice than the rear right wheel was moving even that the shifter was in N.........try other shitifng position and the wheels will responded but when a put it in N couldn't disengage the wheel.....and still that rattling noise.Something is happening, this car will not start if the shifter is on P or N.......The owner told me that the car was running fine with sometimes having problems with the shifter, Any idea what the noise could be? Was very low in transmission fluid( I put new fluid but I noticed a huge leak under the car. Ready ordered new transmission gasket, oil gasket, differential gasket I will do a total fluid change before drive the car. Sorry about my written english but english is not my first language. Thanks a lot for your help, Daniel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your english is fine, I understand what you wrote :)

Welcome to buick world

The wheel turning in neutral will not be a problem, provided it is not giving actual drive, it should not be turning in park.

I have a 58 and have not played with a 56, but I think the gear selector will be relatively the same, there should be an inhibitor switch under the dash, mounted on the steering column that controls the allowed start positions, have a look and see if its loose, but it might be broken.

As for the rattle, I dont know without being there to hear it, but make sure it is not the starter staying engaged in the flywheel and maybe take the inspection cover off the bell housing and check all the torque converter bolts.

Good luck

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks Ttotired, I will check it tomorrow I did suspect about the starter, actually did go under the car and hit it with the hammer...tomorrow I will take the starter down and check and clean it. Thanks again!!! Daniel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are so many things that could be ratteling. One thing may be the gear in the trans for park.  If your shift linkage is out of alignment then it may be the trans is not going into park all the way and the gear ( the Park Pawl)  is spinning on the lever that should catch the pawl. That will make a very fast clicking sound.

 

If that may be what the noise sounds like, then one common reason the linkage gets out of adjustment is due to the transmission mount deteriorating.  The fix is to replace the two piece mount.  Some also say to change the engine mounts at the same time.  Then you can try adjusting the linkage as per the manual.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

There are so many things that could be ratteling. One thing may be the gear in the trans for park.  If your shift linkage is out of alignment then it may be the trans is not going into park all the way and the gear ( the Park Pawl)  is spinning on the lever that should catch the pawl. That will make a very fast clicking sound.

 

If that may be what the noise sounds like, then one common reason the linkage gets out of adjustment is due to the transmission mount deteriorating.  The fix is to replace the two piece mount.  Some also say to change the engine mounts at the same time.  Then you can try adjusting the linkage as per the manual.

thanks Ttotired, I will check it tomorrow I did suspect about the starter, actually did go under the car and hit it with the hammer...tomorrow I will take the starter down and check and clean it. Thanks again!!! Daniel

 

 

Yes!! JohnD1956, that sounds right.......I checked the driver side engine mount  (about 1 year ago he replaced one of the engine mounts) and didn't look very good.... I will follow your advise and replace the engine mount and  transmission mount to see if this fixes the problem.....Can I see the pawl from under the car?.how can I tell if the shift linkage is out of alignment? I have the manual but it is very confusing.......any way to test it? yesterday I visually followed the shift linkage but I don't know what I have to look for,Thanks, Daniel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Glad you have the manual but I agree, the pictures on that topic are not very clear.  I don't have any pictures of simple way to explain what you need to look for.  The parking  pawl is inside the transmission, and not visible from the outside.  What you are looking for is a short adjustable rod but I would need a few days to review the section of the manual to see if I could help explain it better.  The main thing is not to make any adjustments until after the engine mounts and transmission mounts are replaced.  Once the drive train is back in alignment you may not have to make any adjustment at all.  Till then make sure to use the parking brake, or use wheel chocks to prevent the car from getting away from you.  One of the members on this board was run over by his 57 Buick and it took a long time to mend the broken bones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks JohnD1956 , I will not make any adjustment. Today I used penetrating oil all over the shift linkage, transmission mounts screws, engine mount.....clean under the transmission pan (leak bad, already order new gasket). Got the motor mount today to replace the old one. I will no adjust the shift linkage yet. Also removed the starter to service it. Remove the gas tank and cleaned, put a chain inside and rotated and shake it, then poured apple vinegar (let it soak for one week) finally I will rinse with a solution of baking soda first and Pinesol.There is so many things to do with this car!!  and yes smithbrother..... I wrote 1856.....my mistake ,it's a 1956 Buick Super. Daniel

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Adjusting the Dynaflow shift linkage, as per the factory service manual, sounds complicated. That is not helped by the scarcity of pictures to explain which parts the manual is referencing.  That is why I would not endorse making any shift linkage adjustments until you know both engine mounts and the transmission mount ( 2 pieces) are in good condition.  Note, the transmission mount may look good but if it’s never been changed, chances are the pads have become detached from the steel plates of the mounts.  This will impact the shift linkage adjustment.

If your mounts are good, and you need to adjust the shift linkage,  there are two sections of the Service Manual which you need to study.  Section 5-12 on page 181, and section 5-21(d) on page 203. The adjustment mentioned in section 5-21(d) is generally performed whenever the rear bearing retainer is removed.  That usually only happens when the transmission is first built, or subsequently rebuilt.  So you should be aware of that section, but follow the previous section (5-12) for in service adjustment.

The first thing you need to do is identify the parts of the linkage the manual talks about, but does not show pictures of.  Keep in mind that from the steering column to the transmission, all the linkages are on the left ( drivers) side of the transmission.  Also keep in mind that there are two separate linkages.  One is the stator control, which is moved by the gas pedal linkage.  The other is the shift control which is the one you want to pay attention to.

On page 182 there is a picture.  That picture represents the end of the steering column, next to the steering box.  This particular adjustment refers to the spring which you feel when you pull on the shift lever in the car.  There is almost a 99% chance that you do not have to adjust that spring.  I would recommend you check the condition of this part of the steering column.  If it looks like it was never disassembled, and you have some spring action when you pull the shift lever towards the steering column, then I would leave that adjustment alone.  You would then concentrate on steps 6 and 7 of this section.

At this point it helps to understand that the shift linkages on the left ( drivers) side of the transmission operate a cross shaft that goes through the rear bearing retainer and  controls the shift detent mechanism, which is inside the rear bearing retainer on the right ( passengers) side of the transmission.  The adjustment lever is on the right side of the rear bearing retainer as shown in figure 5-81 on page 203. What is not shown in any picture (to the best of my knowledge ) is the parking pawl gear.  That gear is on the output shaft and the pawl (hook) that you see in the pictures contacts that gear, to lock the car in park.  There are no internal adjustments to the gear and pawl mechanism.  The actual adjustment to this entire system is a change in the roller ball that contacts the detent, which is ultimately reflected in the PNDLR gauge on your steering column.  That roller ball adjustment will allow the linkages to operate at their full range within the limits of the shift lever in the steering column. 

This goes back to those engine and transmission mounts.  When they deteriorate, that affects the position of the transmission and engine.  The trans can drop down, pulling on the linkages to the steering column, and then the shift lever cannot move to the new place it has to be for the Park position,  because it can only move so far within the limits of the openings in steering column itself.

I hope this explains things a little bit clearer.  Chances are when the service manual was written the authors expected the mechanics of the day to have already had some experience with these parts and did not forsee the day when  inexperienced folks like us would try to interpret and apply this information.

 

 

 Hopefully this explanation will help

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

.JamesBulldogMiller55Buick I love your car!!!! Did you restored it? Hope my look like this someday!! Update in my Buick: Found source of rattling noise!!!! After removing the starter (my God!!! how do you remove the top screw????I worked for hours........finally I used a "crowfoot" socket and little by little , managed to get the screw out) found the solenoid was rust frozen and not working........cleaned and oiled and now is working fine, started motor was ok. Is there an easy way to put the top screw back????? Also started the car (just for a little be) and I was happy to hear it running after such a long time!!! I got new points, distributor cap, spark plugs and condenser.......will do a oil and filter change.....started working in the body rust (no mayor issues here, only superficial) hopping have the car running this weekend. I will appreciate any advise for somebody that restore a 1956 Buick o similar model. Ones again....sorry about my written english , but Im from Argentina and english is my second language!! Thanks again, Daniel            

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the update Ddiaz396, and thanks for the update on your 56 Buick. Looking forward to seeing some pictures.  It is one of my favorites.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now I understand, you have three different cars.  Will you be restoring both Supers?  Also, are you aware of the differences between your parts car and the Supers?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, my idea is restore the two Supers.Both of them run,but the white one the floor is really bad and I will need a lot of time to restore it The one I'm working now it's in very good shape. Today I put the starter back and the car idle for about 10 minutes,..... very happy!! First time in three years......tomorrow I will put the gas tank back, it's cleaned and painted, replace the ignition parts(tuneup)and rebuild the fuel lines to connect it to the rebuild fuel pump and I hope the car will be running next week!! Also I need to replace the engine and transmission mounts, replace oil and transmission gasket pans( I will clean both pump filters at the same time). I'm very happy with the progress.....this was my first car in USA......Daniel.

IMG_20160707_120515977buick1.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just curious, Did you drop the oil pan, clean it out, remove the oil pump & cleaned it out as well as it's psi spring and ball valve; Flushed the engine oil routes throughout the block with clean oil as well as removing the engine oil filter and filter mounting boss and cleaning it out along with it's psi ball/valve and spring valve inside of it  before attempting to start this hibernating engine ?  Good luck for what follows on your project.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not yet buick man, but before I started the car, I checked the oil( very clean!!) and removed spark plugs and sprayed some Mystery Oil in each cylinder the day before . Already ordered the oil pan gasket and I'm planning to drop the oil pan (also transmission pan ) this weekend......I didn't know about the filter mounting boss( I will now) How do I clean the psi ball and spring valve ?? will be visible when I remove the filter mounting? can i put it in my parts washer? or it's in the car? Thanks for your advice!! any help it's welcome.......this is my first restoration, so I appreciate any help or suggestions!! Thanks again Daniel. 

IMG_20160707_120515977.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The oil filter housing has a stamped steel mounting gasket.  I do not think it is re usable.  I do not know what others have used if they could not get the original gasket.  I would leave that housing on there.  Note, I am not talking about the filter canister.  That uses a regular gasket that comes with your filter.  Many times the old canister gasket gets stuck in it's seat, and unsuspecting folks put the new gasket on top of the old one inadvertently. This will usually result in a bad leak at the filter canister.  Make sure the old gasket comes out.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:

I do not know what others have used if they could not get the original gasket. 

 

The complete engine gasket sets from FEL-PRO or BestGasket or whoever supplies a felt/paper gasket for the oil filter housing. I do not think you can buy them individually, but I do believe you can get the check ball out just be undoing the nut on the back side of the housing - without removing the housing itself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today update: replaced engine mounts and added Mystery Oil in the engine and make it run for 15 minutes in order to warm it and flush internally. I will be doing an oil and filter change this weekend. Also flushed and open the power steering pump, replaced a hose and removed the second one to replace ( have to make the second one in a special hydraulic hoses place because the  7/8 end fittings). An old timer mechanic recommend to me to use IXL (this is an metal anti-friction oil) this staff is great!! he used in everything that move, engine, transmission, brakes, power steering.....Google it....been around 20 years and a little goes a long way......NO cheap!! I was going to replace the spark plugs but, for now, until reconnect the fuel tank, I removed and clean the old ones. Tomorrow I will remove the transmission pan to replace the gasket and clean the filter in the transmission pump. Any special tips for it ? Easy to do? Thanks Daniel  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 I will replace the carburetor for an original Carter WFBC. Starting to take it apart for cleaning. Will post pictures of the carburetor rebuild.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today I removed the transmission pan to replace the gasket(leakage) and noticed that the suction pump screen filter (the fine mesh) was broken . Try to find a replacement in the web, but no luck......nobody is selling it. Any suggestions??? can I diy using a strainer piece?. Also, can I remove my oil pan from the car......today I try to remove but was not enough clearance , will like to replace the oil pan gasket and clean the screen pump filter. How can I do a engine (oil) flush? Read in the internet about using kerosene in the process. Thanks for the help, Daniel

PS : After 20 o more years car is running with original Carter WCFB.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The oil pan will come off if you unbolt the steering idler arm and let the tie rod unit drop down.  Note, you do not have to take the steering apart.  Just remove the two bolts holding the idler arm onto the frame on the passengers side.  Also not, this assumes your car has either no exhaust pipes on it, or is a dual exhaust vehicle.  Otherwise you have to take off the exhaust crossover pipe too. One more thing, I believe there is supposed to be a gasket between the pickup screen housing and the oil pump.

 

No answer on the screen.  Can't say I recall seeing one.  If I was going to make one I'd consider something that was close to what you'll find in the oil pump pickup.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now