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1955 Buick Special 4 door hardtop


NC-car-guy

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Needs a patch in the floors, and one in the rocker. I think I have most of what's needed to reassemble this, but will be posting wanted ads when I don't.  This is the kind of car I've wanted.  I've been through so many (14+) 55 Buicks now, but a 4 door small body is the ticket for me.  This will get century trim, and an extra fender hole, as the locals here are hard on you if you only have a "tree hole" Buick. (yes it sounds like tree when they say it). The other plan is to put a 322 in it with the 56 dynaflow and rear axle I have.  For now I may just see if I can get the little 264 going, as it looks clean.

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And make the left headlight ROUND again, hehe 

 

How far will YOU take this FULL of PATINA PIECE, and I don't mean mileage wise?

 

Ain't no weekend project, FIR SUR, LOVE giving up the TREE HOLE look.

 

YOU and FITTY FO can fight over what year is best.

 

Dale in Indy 

 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, smithbrother said:

And make the left headlight ROUND again, hehe 

 

How far will YOU take this FULL of PATINA PIECE, and I don't mean mileage wise?

 

Ain't no weekend project, FIR SUR, LOVE giving up the TREE HOLE look.

 

YOU and FITTY FO can fight over what year is best.

 

Dale in Indy 

 

 

 

I think fitty fo and I already do in our silent competition to buy up more cars.  This will get out back together safe and comfortable, but not high dollar. Now that I have a shop, I'll do the work myself. I just want a fun cruiser, no shows needed.

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Well, I will be a watchin, we had a 55 Century  2 door HT, race it many times on Route 66, TOP END. 

 

Even pushed a pickup truck past a car as a bet.  The truck owner was a ARCA driver, he bet one of his employees that his parts truck could out run his car.  As a surprise, the employee didn't know I would be there to Push, If needed.  We passed him, and he was mad.  Din were my CRAZY days.  Truck had wood rear bumper.

 

Dale in Indy 

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Did some clean up today.  Engine turns with a breaker bar, and turns over with the starter, but no spark.  Paint code is ABB, but will be blue with a white roof when I'm done. She needs floors and rockers.....

Took all the external parts to storage:

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Then pressure washed the remainder:

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Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)
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While some may see this car as a mess,  It is one of the straightest cars I've bought.  I'd much rather start with rusted bare metal, completely disassembled.  No hidden crap like bondo, and I don't have to deal with the frustration of taking out every freaking rusted bolt.   Once I brace the car and do the floors, I will move it to the frame I already have cleaned and painted.  I might put some more effort into getting the 264 running for now until I can afford to get a nice 322.  

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Yea,  and with as clean and straight as everything else is,(clearly the whole thing was sanded or blasted to bare metal). I think it was somone's resto project that ran out of time or money.  :-(

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2 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Yea,  and with as clean and straight as everything else is,(clearly the whole thing was sanded or blasted to bare metal). I think it was somone's resto project that ran out of time or money.  :-(

Maybe they gave up trying to get the rear door windows back in.  Verify that you can get them back in and working and that all parts are there.  I spent hours trying to figure it out even with the opposite mechanism still in place and another car still assembled AND a parts car.  On top of that there were 2 version of the mechanism in 55 (my parts car was different...this was before I had a body manual).  PM me if you need a body manual for that model.

Willie

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16 minutes ago, old-tank said:

Maybe they gave up trying to get the rear door windows back in.  Verify that you can get them back in and working and that all parts are there.  I spent hours trying to figure it out even with the opposite mechanism still in place and another car still assembled AND a parts car.  On top of that there were 2 version of the mechanism in 55 (my parts car was different...this was before I had a body manual).  PM me if you need a body manual for that model.

Willie

Thanks Willie!  There's something not everyone would know (or expect).  I won't be using the doors.   I have a 4 dr hardtop with pristine doors (rest of the body is hacked) that I bought from Bob that has the windows and mechanism all still installed and working!  Once I get the floors and rockers done,  I will just bolt the other 4 doors on.  I may still ask about that body manual.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, after a brief delay in Buicks due to rain and negotiations with the owner of the neighboring property I am getting back at it.  Re: neighboring property, I have three acres, this 5 borders me. The owners want to sell and knew I didn't want the subdivsion next to it expanding on top of me.  Not ideal timing, but I pounced. 

That being said, I want to get the floors and rockers for the hardtop.  Which vendor provides the best panel with the least hassle and modification involved?  Or are they all the same maker just sold by different retailers?

 

Thanks,

Matt

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

I pulled my 1956 dynaflow this weekend.  I will be putting it in my 55 behind a 322.  The car I pulled it from showed 71k on the odometer.  Between pedal wear, upholstery wear, and the lack of ridges on the tops of the cylinders, I'd venture the 71k is accurate.   The fluid in the transmission is very clean, no signs of metal or other material.  I hesitate to throw down all the money to rebuild this right now and am hoping it has a few miles left in it.  Would you risk just bolting this in?   

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7 minutes ago, old-tank said:

Previously discussed...

It will "work", but the 56 tranny is about an inch longer and the splines on the universal are different.  Some found that the transmission mount is different too.

Oh I know.  I have the torque tube rear, trans mount and cross member  (Also from the 56). The question was more if a 71k trans is trustworthy or I shouldnt waste the energy installing until I rebuild.

Edited by wndsofchng06 (see edit history)
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7 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Oh i know.  I have the torque tube rear, trans mount and cross member.  The question was more if a 71k trans is trustworthy or I shouldnt waste the energy installing until I rebuild.

No easy way to test unless you install (see Mudbone 55 Century thread).  It might be ok if running when parked.  Any original transmission has old-old-old seals that could fail at any time.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Mine was rebuilt with a kit from Fatsco. I refrain from buying any kits on Ebay simply because you never really know what you're going to get and returns are hit or miss. Fatsco also lists the 1955-60 Dynaflows as their own category, whereas this vendor lists 1948-56. Your call, but the guys at Fatsco will forever be my saviors. My Buick died in 1978 because of a ring gear failure (the one that goes around the planetary gears). They just happened to have one NOS on the shelf.

 

11050253_10153796781625830_8253721219823

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  • 2 months later...
1 hour ago, Kosage Chavis said:

Can't wait to see the progress Matt. Hope you'll provide plenty of pictures and details.

I'll try. Won't be at the level of detail you've documented yours though, I'm not that patient! Plus this one is mostly disassembled already.  This car is not getting a full resto, she already runs, and while I don't dare say ratrod, maybe a rust-oration is better. The "parts" car I bought has a title and is actually in better shape, it will be my restoration. Safe, drivable, wet sanded and clear coat is where im headed with this car. Debating on trim treatments. Will probably paint the bumpers, taillights, and all pot metal. Not sure if I want flat black or silver (not fake chrome, actual silver). I will NOT paint the stainless, might delete it and put a painted-on side sweep. Opinions are welcome.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 More playing....56 trunk emblem.  I did Not paint the little disc in the center that says 1956.. if anyone needs it let me know, I don't mind letting the rust shine through the center....20170115_173837.jpg20170115_173847.jpg

the emblem itself had more pitting than was worth while, so. Filler and paint, plus I already drilled out my trunk lid to hold the new emblem.

Edited by wndsofchng06
Spelling typo (see edit history)
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You could just put some ply wood down and call it good lol. Body work scares me to no end. I imagine floors would be pretty easy until you try to add back in the strengthening divets and channels that were pressed into the sheet metal. Good luck! 

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