Lubricating Leaf Springs

[John348]

My 50 Chevy still has the spring covers on the rear springs. There are locations for grease, does anyone know where I can purchase the adapter for my grease gun to lubricate the springs?

[MCHinson]

I just bought one on ebay. It should be here soon. I am hoping it will work on my 1937 Buick Century. It is not the same tool number as specified in my service manual but it looks similar.  There were several others on ebay as well. The most common term to search for to find them seems to be "lubroclamp".

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=leaf+spring+lubricating+tool&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xlubroclamp.TRS0&_nkw=lubroclamp&_sacat=0

[John348]

Thanks a lot Matt, I will be ordering one myself. My problem was I did not know what to call it, again Thanks so much

[RansomEli]

MCHinson, 

 

Thanks for the link. I 'm not sure how the tool is used. Do you use the Leaf Spreader Tool (last item in the eBay list) to spread the springs and then the Leaf spring grease tool to insert the grease? Or does the leaf spring grease tool do this all-in-one?

[MCHinson]

For my 1937 Buick, the service manual indicates that you lift car body with chain hoist or jack the car up by the frame (not under axle) which separates the the spring leaves to allow the lubricant to flow between the spring leaves.

[Guest]

In your link the first three spread the leaves and the grease is inserted through the tool.  You can see the fitting on the end.  The fourth tool is strictly a spreader.

You can accomplish the same job, albeit with a lot more trouble, with a large screwdriver (the type with the shaft going right through the handle) and a needle fiting on your grease gun.  You drive the screwdriver between the leaves and then inject the grease.  Simple but messier.

[MCHinson]

I think that the main advantage of the lubricating tool is that it is easier, less messy and it can be used to lubricate springs that have covers without removing the covers. 

[Dandy Dave]

Just a thought, Could one get a spray can of Gear and Chain lube like is used on a Motor Cycle chain, Jack the car up by the frame, or put it on a lift supported buy the frame, and just spray the stuff in there with the leafs spread? Seems to me it would save a lot of trouble. Dandy Dave! 

[Spinneyhill]

The Lubroclamp is for use with covered springs. The covers were metal (tin plate on my Studebaker) with heavy canvas wrapping inside that. Felt was used to seal around the ends. The Studebaker covers were made as a series of overlapping pieces about 6" long over the top, folded along the bottom edges onto a full length (each side) continuous bottom strip.There was a wee hole in each end. The Lubroclamp included a sharp edge to cut a hole in the canvas on first use. You clamp it on and pump. And pump. And pump. i would imagine most of it will come out the end and nearer the middle remains ungreased.

 

The whole thing is a trial. If they dry out (few were greased in service) the springs rust. The grease contained quite a lot of clay, which absorbs water when the grease has dried out. For this reason, NEVER use graphite grease in this application.

 

Mine were on the transverse front spring. I made new covers out of 16 g. galvanised steel. It was too thick; 18 or 20 g would have been better. I had the spring hanging from the ceiling in the workshop for quite a while.

 

The leaf spreader is clearly for open springs. As has been said, any tapered device you can force in will separate them. Whether it is worth the effort is another matter.

[John348]

8 hours ago, Dandy Dave said:

Just a thought, Could one get a spray can of Gear and Chain lube like is used on a Motor Cycle chain, Jack the car up by the frame, or put it on a lift supported buy the frame, and just spray the stuff in there with the leafs spread? Seems to me it would save a lot of trouble. Dandy Dave! 

 

Dave, I still have the original tin spring covers on my springs. If the covers were not on it would be a no brainer, it would be a shame to remove them after all of these years. I had tried to remove them from a 1953 Chevy I also own, they are a one shot deal. I got them off but....... they could never be used again.  As a matter of fact right now I am taking a break from intstalling a new set of shocks, the original Delco's are coming out dated D 10 50.

[MCHinson]

30 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

 

The whole thing is a trial. If they dry out (few were greased in service) the springs rust. The grease contained quite a lot of clay, which absorbs water when the grease has dried out. For this reason, NEVER use graphite grease in this application.

 

 

I am curious about the best grease choice. Mine are not dry, but they do make a little bit of noise. The 1937 Buick Service Manual calls for "40% graphite lubricant". 

 

I have not looked to see what choices of grease are available but your advice is different from the service manual. I am sure that a lot of better lubricants have been created since 1937, but what would be the best grease and why?

[Spinneyhill]

Noise = dry, rusty, possibly pitted. Graphite is at the bottom of the galvanic scale. With damp clay present you have a wonderful galvanic cell. The service manual assumes it will be greased at the frequency stated. Does your canvas have a wee hole in it showing it was ever greased?

 

Grease with molybdenum disulphide contains corrosion inhibitors because "molypoly" is corrosive, along with the damp clay, when it dries out. I would use a lithium petrolatum grease without molypoly but with corrosion inhibitors. Then you have the best chance of lubrication with minimal chance of corrosion when it dries out.

 

You will have great difficulty getting grease to the other end of the cover. It will all come out nearest the lubrication point. I suppose you could make another hole in the middle. It would also benefit if you make sure the ends are fairly well closed - air has to come out of course - perhaps leave a tell-tale tiny opening at the opposite side (top?) to the lubricating hole?

 

I seem to remember there was a plug to fill the hole after greasing. It's character I am unable to recall at the moment. Perhaps a very short machine screw with shakeproof washer?

[MCHinson]

Mine don't actually have covers. They are pretty well covered in grease but my guess is it has migrated out to leave some internal area of the springs unlubricated. There appear to be holes in the springs for use of this tool about 6 inches from the spring eye on each end. I received the tool today but I am going to have to find some time to stop by a friend's house to use his 2 post lift to use it. There is no mention of a plug for the holes in the springs in the service manual.

 

Without spring covers, I could probably use a screwdriver to spread the springs and lubricate them but I just like the idea of using a tool like the one shown in the original service manual instructions. 

[Spinneyhill]

Are those holes in all springs? I wonder if spring clamps should be riveted in those holes, in which case they would be in only one spring. If they are only near the end I can't see how you can get grease to the middle.

 

You have uncovered springs greased? Hmmm. Interesting. I would have thought if it is not restrained inside it will just ooze out first time it is loaded. I have learnt something else new today!

[MCHinson]

This car would have originally had spring covers. The spring covers are missing but the springs have obviously been well greased over the years. I just want to see what I can do to keep them greased well. Attached are photos from the service manual section on lubricating the rear springs. 

[Spinneyhill]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LUBROCLAMP-LEAF-SPRING-GREASE-TOOL-DODGE-CHRYSLER-FORD-PACKARD-LINCOLN-ZEPHYR-/371633682871?hash=item568717f9b7:g:qLEAAOSwPsJXP1rE&vxp=mtr

 

The Lubroclamp is for lubricating enclosed springs. It says in the box something about "steel covered" .... [springs]? It seems to be missing the "nozzle" to push into the cover:

 

 

The leaf spreading tool also listed at the moment is bent. You could probably make something up at minimal cost using a G or F clamp with a couple of wee wedges you could make up. Or a pair of vice grips with the large clamping frame - just sharpen one side.

Edited May 26, 2016 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[Dandy Dave]

15 hours ago, John348 said:

 

Dave, I still have the original tin spring covers on my springs. If the covers were not on it would be a no brainer, it would be a shame to remove them after all of these years. I had tried to remove them from a 1953 Chevy I also own, they are a one shot deal. I got them off but....... they could never be used again.  As a matter of fact right now I am taking a break from intstalling a new set of shocks, the original Delco's are coming out dated D 10 50.

 

Covers or no covers, A spray bomb of gear lube with a plastic tube for reach would lube them up for todays roads or the next 100 thousand miles, Or 50 years, Which ever comes first... As I said, Covers or no covers. We do not drive though Creaks anymore as they all have bridges over them. Roads are not as ruff and brutal as they were in the 1920's and 1930's. We do not put the family Motor car on blocks for the winter and keep old Dobblin the work horse and sleigh for the trek to work on hard cold winter days like we did in old times as my Grandfather told me. From where I sit it seems like a no brainer? Unless you are a total purest and consider this a Modification just to lube the springs? Really??? Then why not a spray bomb of gear and chain lube??? Oh, And I bet it will penetrate better than what they did back in the day. Aint Modern Tech great! Dandy Dave! . 

Edited May 27, 2016 by Dandy Dave (see edit history)

[Spinneyhill]

Good idea! I remember buying a bottle of oil for my bicycle chain. It contained "millions of tiny ball bearings" = PTFE. Xclnt stuff.

[John348]

12 hours ago, Dandy Dave said:

 

Covers or no covers, A spray bomb of gear lube with a plastic tube for reach would lube them up for todays roads or the next 100 thousand miles, Or 50 years, Which ever comes first... As I said, Covers or no covers. We do not drive though Creaks anymore as they all have bridges over them. Roads are not as ruff and brutal as they were in the 1920's and 1930's. We do not put the family Motor car on blocks for the winter and keep old Dobblin the work horse and sleigh for the trek to work on hard cold winter days like we did in old times as my Grandfather told me. From where I sit it seems like a no brainer? Unless you are a total purest and consider this a Modification just to lube the springs? Really??? Then why not a spray bomb of gear and chain lube??? Oh, And I bet it will penetrate better than what they did back in the day. Aint Modern Tech great! Dandy Dave! . 

 

Dave,

You have to respect the fact I wish to keep the original spring covers on the springs, There can't be too many left like that, I must confess I am a "puritan" There really does not seem to be a way to reach in there with lube with the covers on. I will give it a second look but it really looks like the lube will get everywhere else but on the springs.

I will give it go later today. The new shocks seemed to have quieted things down a lot!

Edited May 27, 2016 by John348 (see edit history)

[Dandy Dave]

John348. Yes, I would not take the covers off either. I have nothing but respect for you wanting to keep it original. Dandy Dave! 

[32buick67]

On 5/26/2016 at 6:02 PM, Spinneyhill said:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LUBROCLAMP-LEAF-SPRING-GREASE-TOOL-DODGE-CHRYSLER-FORD-PACKARD-LINCOLN-ZEPHYR-/371633682871?hash=item568717f9b7:g:qLEAAOSwPsJXP1rE&vxp=mtr

 

The Lubroclamp is for lubricating enclosed springs. It says in the box something about "steel covered" .... [springs]? It seems to be missing the "nozzle" to push into the cover:

 

 

The leaf spreading tool also listed at the moment is bent. You could probably make something up at minimal cost using a G or F clamp with a couple of wee wedges you could make up. Or a pair of vice grips with the large clamping frame - just sharpen one side.

Thank you for posting this - very much appreciated, who knew how you'd be helping someone 6 years later!

I was trying to devise a modern way to lubricate the metal-covered springs on my car, but the original fittings are not zerks, and thanks to your help, I was able to find an inexpensive original Lubroclamp as you have shown, so now the springs can be lubricated per original specs without a lot of effort and expense.

 

Thank you!

 

[31nash880]

Another thank you!

Have a 1931 Nash with covered springs but also have bijur lubing system. Seems it was in use very often due to all the grime on the chassie. 

Question is, would the oil from this type system have gotten to the springs also?

[leomara]

My 1928 Chrysler Model 72 specifically says not to lubricate between the spring leaves in the owners manual.  Does anyone know why? 

[trimacar]

1 hour ago, leomara said:

My 1928 Chrysler Model 72 specifically says not to lubricate between the spring leaves in the owners manual.  Does anyone know why? 

It could be they were using different steel for the springs which was not compatable with lubrication.

 

Though it seems counterintuitive, some steels are corroded or weakened by oil or grease.

 

Most leaf springs in post war cars should not be lubricated for that reason.

[Mikefit]

If you lube the springs lower the spring rate  there is no longer friction in the . Leaves the spring rate is rated with the friction of each leaf added to the total rate  I under stand when they start squeaking there needs some lube as you apply . Grease you give dirt and sand a place to stick now the mixture is like grinding compound 

[Larry Schramm]

Here is a picture of the tool to lubricate the springs.

 

[cxgvd]

When the leaf springs are separated rub the surfaces with paraffin wax.  Gary

[Bloo]

I have been told that the cars you should never lubricate springs on, via 1930s logic, are the ones with no shock absorbers or snubbers as the only damping they have is the friction between the leaves. Also a spring builder once told me that steel springs made after the war are a different alloy, and really shouldn't use grease at all. I can't prove any of this, but I do know that a lot of postwar springs have liners or plastic buttons inside, and wouldn't need the lubrication anyway. Your mileage may vary.

 

In the prewar era some cars had gaiters to hold the grease in. It was graphite grease, and had more graphite in it than grease, so not at all like most of today's graphite grease. My Pontiac uses a "lubroclamp" like @Larry Schramm posted to get the graphite grease inside the gaiters and between the leaves. There's even a picture of a lubroclamp in the shop manual. Some Chrysler products with no gaiters used a different tool that wedged the leaves apart to get the graphite grease in. Later on I think this whole graphite grease idea was frowned upon, as well as the gaiter idea, because of contamination and grinding as well as the possibility of galvanic corrosion from the graphite, especially if the graphite grease were allowed to dry out.

 

I still shoot old fashioned graphite spring grease in my Pontiac springs every year or two with a lubroclamp. Penrite still make grease like that if you want some.

 

[Mark Shaw]

Solution for my prewar Buicks...  Disassemble, clean each spring leaf, apply on both sides of mating leaves, re-assemble, paint the outside to match the chassis.  Springs stay clean and never need to be lubricated again.

CRC Industries 10oz Aerosol Dry Graphite Lube

Item No.SKU# 125-03094 

 Made In USA

  Low Price Guarantee  

 

$10.99

List: $12.90

[Larry Schramm]

This is what I have used.

 

[Marty Roth]

Maybe 10-15 years ago I had a local "big truck" shop Re-Arch the leaf springs on my 1930 Packard.

They carefully removed and reinstalled to metal covers on the springs, and suggested not to grease the ssurfaces,

but did, as I recall, use graphite powder on the surfaces.

[Gary W]

When I restored my '37, I ordered new leaf springs as the originals had several cracked leaves.  I had each leaf blasted clean, then I painted each leaf both sides with POR-15.  Once the POR-15 dried, I painted "SLIP PLATE" on all the rubbing surfaces.  I've used this on my Model "T" and my Model "A"'s with very nice long term results.  

 

 

Here's the write up from when I did the springs: