rodneybeauchamp

Correct vacuum hose location on a/c 63

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Several of the small vacuum hoses came adrift while fitting the oil sender on my 63. As it was super difficult to fit, I didn't pay too much attention until I found them dangling around in the engine bay.

 

Tried to follow the routing in the manual however looks different to what I can see under the bonnet. None of my hoses appear to be colour coded and the tee pieces mean hoses could connect any a variety of places.

 

Any suggestions how I can make sure I have the right hose connected to the correct port?

 

And how I can confirm or test that a connection is right and is working?

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Remove the plastic housing from were the vacuum hosed come from. You most likely will see the colored strips in here. Then follow the manual diagram. It's not easy and very frustrating. So be patient and recheck your work more than once if your anything like me and must be color blind. 

 

Good luck

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                the vacuum lines are color coded but the color fades off after 50 years. Go to where the lines come out of the firewall

and pull them out a little more towards the engine compartment and you will see the colored stripe. In the interior the colors

are protected and don't fade off. sometimes you can wipe the line with b12 chemtool carb cleaner and you will be able to still see the colors enough to identify it. On my car after I identified them I put a dab of different colors of paint on each hose and on the nipple it goes on so as to eliminate any confusion in the future if hoses came off.

Edited by Seafoam65 (see edit history)

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If the thin plastic cover that covers the switches and ports is still in place, it has an embossed diagram on it too.  

 

Ed

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)

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On 5/19/2016 at 0:05 PM, RivNut said:

If the thin plastic cover that covers the switches and ports is still in place, it has an embossed diagram on it too.  

 

Ed

Ed, please find a pic of the thin plastic cover I believe you are referring. The numbers on the diagram obviously identify what hose connects to what part in the vacuum loop.

is it possible you might know where I can find an explanation of what the numbers mean?

thank you

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Try this:

 

1963-4700-AC-vacuum-switch-cover.jpg.a153174266ef8fd85eca6b654747ec34.jpg

 

See illustrations 11-73 - 11-77 in the 1963 shop manual for further explanation.  In general, familiarize yourself with section 11-16 of the manual.  That is, read it several times, as it can be a bit perplexing at first to try to remember which diaphragms do what, when each one gets vacuum,  and which ones get vacuum even when they're not doing anything.

 

Edited by KongaMan (see edit history)

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I troubleshoot my A/C vacuum system as follows:

 

1. Remove each hose from each actuator vacuum diaphragm nipple and label them.  Plug each with a golf tee except for 1 at a time, the one you want to test.  On that one, connect a vacuum gauge.

 

2.  Attach a vacuum source at the engine intake manifold hose so that you do not have to run the engine.

 

3.  Move the A/C and Heat knobs to each position and use the vacuum gauge to confirm that there is or is not vacuum on that line.

 

4.  Move the vacuum gauge to another diaphragm line (move the golf tee over) and repeat #3.

 

The shop manual is very clear on which diaphragm should have or not have vacuum for each A/C - heater knob position.

 

The vacuum modulator (inside the car) is a common source of leaks and problems.  You may need to isolate it to test other things in the system.

 

The little vacuum switches also don't seal well sometimes.  A shot of silicon in each end of a switch, followed by actuating several times with your fingers, will help get them working again correctly (for a while).

 

I use a paint pen (available at a craft supply store) to run a colored stripe down each vacuum hose as it is identified and the operation is confirmed.

 

 

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Jim,

this is great help. I have reconnected the new hoses back, some months ago but these tests might help confirm all works as it should.

 

Im not a golfer, but should be able to find something to plug the lines. 

 

Any recommendations on a suitable vacuum source or method to make one that I could use?

 

Rodney

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54 minutes ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Any recommendations on a suitable vacuum source or method to make one that I could use?

 

Your lungs.

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12 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Jim,

this is great help. I have reconnected the new hoses back, some months ago but these tests might help confirm all works as it should.

 

Im not a golfer, but should be able to find something to plug the lines. 

 

Any recommendations on a suitable vacuum source or method to make one that I could use?

 

Rodney

An AC vacuum pump or, with some modification, a compressor from an old refrigerator, the intake side of an electric tire pump, etc... In a pinch one can use another car and run a long run of vacuum line if not wanting to work around a running engine.

  Tom

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20 hours ago, KongaMan said:

Try this:

 

1963-4700-AC-vacuum-switch-cover.jpg.a153174266ef8fd85eca6b654747ec34.jpg

 

See illustrations 11-73 - 11-77 in the 1963 shop manual for further explanation.  In general, familiarize yourself with section 11-16 of the manual.  That is, read it several times, as it can be a bit perplexing at first to try to remember which diaphragms do what, when each one gets vacuum,  and which ones get vacuum even when they're not doing anything.

Mr.Konga Man, it doesn't take much to perplex me in mechanical pursuits. I bought a Mighty Vac MV 4534 todo my testing. I purchased color coded vacuum hose kit from Old Air. The sections 11-73 and 11-77 in the Shop manual will be studied and used for reference.

In my efforts to take off the engine ground strap to clean and reattach to the engine and steel frame for proper grounding I knocked off the vacuum hoses. I'll put them back where they belong as a trial run for the real deal. All the vacuum hoses are worn out and fall off the ports real easy. I'm disappointed the mechanic that evacuated the R12 and installed the new compressor, drier, rebuilt STV, hoses, and new R12 DID NOT mention the vacuum system was worn out. I believe the vacuum Actuator is not working as the mechanism does not work or move free. I'm disappointed the mechanic turned out a half baked job. Well, I Will test and replace parts as necessary. Primary Main goal is to have as tight vacuum system as possible. Again, I appreciate your clear directions on how to solve problems with my Riviera.

 

15 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:

An AC vacuum pump or, with some modification, a compressor from an old refrigerator, the intake side of an electric tire pump, etc... In a pinch one can use another car and run a long run of vacuum line if not wanting to work around a running engine.

  Tom

Mr

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13 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

Jim,

this is great help. I have reconnected the new hoses back, some months ago but these tests might help confirm all works as it should.

 

Im not a golfer, but should be able to find something to plug the lines. 

 

Any recommendations on a suitable vacuum source or method to make one that I could use?

 

Rodney

Rodney I purchased a Mighty Vac pressure tester. The Mighty Vac offers pressure Vac testers at different price points. The first Mighty Vac I used was a had squeeze pump AND the Mighty Vac leaked! I ordered yet another Mighty Vac Model MV 4534 for $70.00 USD inc. delivery.

your information regarding the laminated wiring chart for the Riv and the Emissions and Electrical Testing Manual will be ordered as well.

 

i sent a message to the wrong fellow regarding your wheel purchases from an unfair trader in the US. The other guy must know I am confused. 

What I want to say is I'm sorry you were unfairly done in by the scoundrel cheating you on the wheel purchase. No one ever wants to be cheated. I take cheating as the ultimate insult. My first reaction to confirming I have really been cheated is to do bodily harm to the cheater. Of course, I don't act on those impulses. I get plenty angry.

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