Guest saints Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Im getting the bugs worked out of my new(to me) 58 buick special. One issue that bothers me and this is my first time with a dynoflow trans so not sure if its just the way they are but...... When I put it in reverse I better have my foot smashed good and hard on the brake or else it engages and i go flying backwards. also the same when I stop at a light I have to have my foot crammed on the brake because the car is always trying to take off. I have checked idol speed its at 550 or little below. is this normal. seems like I am wore out after driving the car around because of the constant holding the car back with all my might on the brake pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Phillips Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Are you sure the carburetor is not sticking on fast idle when you are driving the car? That's what it sounds like. Yes, you have to put your foot on the brake but that sounds excessive. I would say slow it down to 450 rpm at idle. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 1958 model 49D Leonard, TX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Either your tachometer is wrong or there is a transmission problem. Check the transmission pressures as (hopefully) outlined in the service manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest saints Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 it does idle pretty high when I throw it in park. I used a dwell meter to set idle. Ill try turning it down. Ill pull out my manual and look into the trans pressure. reverse is the worse of the two it will bark the tires. depending on the type of concrete when I put it in reverse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Does the car stop ok? Is this a power brake car? If so, it sounds like your power assist is not working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ttotired Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 New to you!!!! Is/was it a barn find (parked up for a long time) or is this the reason it was sold? Just thinking (and believe me, we are on a par here, I dont know a lot about these things as well, mine dont run now) I am wondering if the variable bit of the torque converter is working/stuck. No idea how this really works yet because I havnt read up on it, but reverse will have a lower drive ratio than "D" (not sure about "L") so it will be harsher in reverse. I did notice (before I pulled the engine out of mine) that it seemed to push through the brakes, but the brakes were really crap on mine (wheel cylinders stuck). I fixed the brakes, but I didnt really get a chance to drive it after that because the engine was knocking (was suck when I got it) and I was trying to keep running time to a minimum until I fixed the knock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest saints Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 On 4/18/2016 at 4:00 PM, Smartin said: No its not a power brake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest saints Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 well i set the rpm lower and it seemed to help alot. I still need to have the pressures checked on the trans. Yes it is a new car I bought and previous owner had no clue how to work on, or maintain a car to save his life so I am trouble shooting all over this car. I do need brake work as I have a squishy brake pedal and when setting at a light it will bleed down to the point of me having to pump it back up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Take your brake drums off all 4 wheels and replace the brake cylinders cause one of them is leaking. Also final set your idle by listening to the exhaust rather than looking at a tach RPM gauge alone. The exhaust idle sound you are striving for should be similar to the sound of a slow horse gallup with a ever so slight pause or wallop between the idle gallup. This setting can then be confirmed with a vacuum gauge and make a note of the setting in your shop's engine spec file. You will get there - Good luck ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trp3141592 Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 Hi, Don't forget to change the rubber flex brake hoses during your brake job. These things swell up on the inside and cause a lot of Gremlin-activity. --Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest saints Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 thank you for the advice. I have a order in for lines and new brake cylinders Ill just get everything squared away at once I also have a master cylinder coming so I only open the system once. I have now what seems to be a exhaust leak making the car sound like a old truck when I hit the gas..... ill keep plugging away with new parts till its daily driver status Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 (edited) If you are changing all of the wheel cylinders, flex lines and MC you should consider flushing the hard lines and switching to DOT 5 fluid. You will hear from the hard core purists not to do that and all kinds of negatives but DOT 5 is da bomb.............Bob Edited April 26, 2016 by Bhigdog (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 …. here's a good read on the H.A.M.B. regarding the positive and negatives regarding one's choice when considering Dot 5 usage. Most concerns that would apply to our older yet 'new' brake setups would be air entrapment, altitude sensitivities, high heat braking and silicone eating away on stock rubber seals and that includes the seals on the brake cylinders as well as the rubber brake line component makeup. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/whats-the-negative-of-silicone-dot-5-brake-fluid.185724/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 (edited) Here's a good read.......... I've had the SAME DOT 5 in my 69 Corvette for over 23 years. No corrosion, no leakage , no air entrainment, no problems. I've had the SAME DOT 5 in my 39 Chevy for over 18 years. " " " " " " " " " I've had the SAME DOT 5 in my 55 Buick for 16 years............... " " " " " " " " " My 55 Olds..............Ditto My 57 Buick............Ditto My 56 Chrysler......Ditto ...............Bob Edited April 27, 2016 by Bhigdog (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 If I were completely going through and replacing everything on my brake system, I would consider DOT 5. I guess since I haven't had any issues with 3, I don't see a need to change. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 13 hours ago, Smartin said: If I were completely going through and replacing everything on my brake system, I would consider DOT 5. I guess since I haven't had any issues with 3, I don't see a need to change. Agreed.........Changing to DOT 5 usually only makes sense if one is changing out all the brake components anyway..........Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialEducation Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 We did a complete switch to DOT 5 a few years back, when we went through the whole system for the second time. Pedal feel and such are fine. We have an issue with our MC, but that seems to be a rebuilder issue, not a fluid use issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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