ebak210

WTB 1924 Buick Speedometer Cable (and a good tech article too)

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We might need an expert to weigh in here...

My 1924 6 cylinder had this mating end on the transmission:

large.56ef1aca20b7e_speedometercable(1).

And this mating end on the speedometer head:

large.56ef1acb09a56_speedometercable(2).

Maybe I have the wrong transmission adapter, or the wrong speedometer head.

But I found these NOS on Ebay, and it seems to fit both ends.  It is a little long and I haven't installed it yet, but hopefully I can just route it under the car to make it fit between the two connections:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351639599346?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Also, this website would make up anything you need, however I have not bought from them:

http://www.bobsspeedometer.com/1/120/cables_and_casings.asp

 

 

 

 

 

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The gentleman that you need to talk to is Russ Furstnow down in Flagstaff, Arizona.  He is the Speedometer guy of choice.  I just spoke with him Thursday at Chickasha and he had two tables full of beautifully restored speedometer heads and miscellaneous parts relating to speedometers and speedometer drives.  His email address is - 1stnow@msn.com   You can reach him at (928) 526-1343.  I hope that this will be of some help for you.

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Thanks to both of you for your help.

27donb: Could you please  measure the total length of your cable, and the length of the casing (without the nuts). I would also like to know the inner diameter of the nuts. I understand that you have tried the cable on your car, and that both the cable and the nuts fits.

By the way, I have a 1924 - mod 49.

Thank you.

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On 3/21/2016 at 5:08 AM, ebak210 said:

27donb: Could you please  measure the total length of your cable, and the length of the casing (without the nuts). I would also like to know the inner diameter of the nuts. I understand that you have tried the cable on your car, and that both the cable and the nuts fits.

 

 

On 3/20/2016 at 5:56 PM, 27donb said:

 It is a little long and I haven't installed it yet, but hopefully I can just route it under the car to make it fit between the two connections.

 

 

Just to be clear, I haven't installed the cable on my car yet to see how well it fits between the transmission and speedometer, I think the cable is if anything a little long.

 

The threaded nuts fit and the driving and driven ends fit their respective ends.

 

The casing is about 67 1/2" long. 

 

The ID of the nuts is about 13/16", 18 threads per inch.

 

I suggest you check your transmission and speedometer to make sure the cable ends will fit what YOU have.

 

I hope this helps...

 

 

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Before you try out your new speedometer cable, be certain that the speedometer actually can turn. I have never seen a single 1924 Buick speedometer that actually works. They all seem to have varying degrees of pot metal problems internally. It could be the reason why the old one broke...

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For your Mid 20s Buick, and into the 30's.  Here is a guide to putting your speedometer cable back together.

First the length.  On the mid 20's Buicks, The cable was 5/8" longer than the casing.  See the two Master parts book pages for the lengths of the cable and casing.  For my 1925 standard, they are 47 1/2 for the casing and 48 1/8" for the cable.

Buick Speedometer cable lengths 1.jpg

Buick Speedometer cable lengths 2.jpg

The casing measurement is from flange face to flange face with the nuts pulled back.  My casing actually measures 47 3/4", so you make the casing first, then the cable. 

 Both ends of the casing are identical.  They are 7/8 -18 female nuts.  Restoration stuff part number is FLX-017  $18.29 ea

 

The casing is .445 OD, which makes it .250 ID  Restoration stuff part number is FLX 056 $5.30/ft

 

The cable is .130 diameter.  restorationstuff part number is FLX052 $4.30/ft

 

The drive end that goes into the transmission is the .150" shank diameter.   part number FLX062 $24.00  The problem with this part, is that the cable end is made for the .187 cable, so it will not fit into my casing.  I just noticed this, so I will need call them to see if they have one for the smaller cable.

 

The driven speedometer end is .315 square outside.  .18 square on the ID.  They do not list this in the catalog, but they say they can make the entire cable.  Assuming this part is about $25.  Total for all the parts is  $124 + assembly??+ tax + shipping. 

 

www.Restorationstuff.com claim that they carry all the parts.  There are also other vendors that can fix you up, so you can shop around.  You can use the above sizes from my original cable and casing for reference.  Just verify the transmission and speedometer ends (7/8 OD of the threads). 

 The original ends would have been nickled, and the cable painted black. 

 

speedometer cable jpg.JPG 

 

IMG_4734.JPG

 

Notice that I have a transmission bracket on mine, and a firewall grommet. 

 

There are some other options as well. 

 

I just bought a cable on Ebay.  "AC 618".  It is a Cable kit from the 30's.  They come 60+ inches long, and you cut to length and crimp the end on.  The crimper is in the box. 

 

Also "AC Cable-casing CC-2" shows up on Ebay ocassionally.  It is 67 inches long.  It is for 1934-1936 Buicks Series 40.  You can use this "as is" or maybe you can shorten it.   There is also a "Universal brand" cable which is an aftermarket CC-2.  Sold under the names Kent and Perfection, and probably others.  It is listed as "U-30". 

 

The 1925 Chevrolet may also be the same, but I have not looked into this one completely.

 

Look for the orange and blue AC boxes.  Those are the old ones.  The newer boxes are red/white and blue.

 

Good point on checking that the speedometer turns with a screwdriver before installing a new cable.

 

Hugh  

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

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Have been following this thread, does any one have a pic of what the ends look like  for the transmission and speedometer ends for a 1923 Mod 48 six cylinder buick, nothing better to do in the northeast but to putter, Terry and Brian have told dad to call the individual in the earlier post and talk with him - the casing that we have is just under 66 inches, inner is chain links with one end a cylinder type with two prongs and a center piece that slides in to the cylinder end, nothing on the other end - will post pics later Thanks

Jim

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In from the cold, here are the pics, cable casing is 65 and 7/16 inches, hex nut on one end and round nut on the other, inner is chain link, don't know if the end is correct for the speedometer, one end has a wire attached to the cylinder end that I have - presume to look at the inner workings, don't have the other end - the cylinder end in the first pic allows the flat piece to extend into it and fit between the two prongs

IMG_0107.JPG

IMG_0108.JPG

IMG_0109.JPG

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Jim,

      Does your outer casing fit the speedometer and the transmission?   Do you have photos of the transmission connection itself and the back of the speedometer?  My car came with extra unknown parts, and I have one of these casings as well.  Same size.  It only had broken pieces of chain in it, so I thought it was a model T cable.    If the casing you have fits, then you only need the cable.  I would stay away from the chain type, and go with a flex cable, so we need to figure out what ends are needed.  These are photos of my transmission connection and the speedometer input for a 1925 Buick Standard.   My car has an AC speedometer.    Sorry to have to send you back into the cold.  Hugh

   1925_Buick_Standard_speedometer_output.thumb.JPG.a4750ef0a4ac62597be8ddf2898a1a70.JPG1925_Buick_Standard_AC_speedometer.thumb.JPG.97848110bc35b8033cc69bce6ae20cfc.JPG

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Hi Hugh - didn't need to go out in the cold to take the pic's, talked with a good friend of mine "Terry" who told me that the end I have is the tranny end, and that I need the speedometer end, my speedometer and links is a Stewart Warner for a 1923 Mod. 48 six cylinder Buick (Opera Coupe) - see attached pics, both ends (speedometer and tranny) are the same, tranny end is on the left side just above and in front of my fill port, I will be calling "Russ" (mentioned in this thread for parts I hope) 17 degrees here in upstate NY with 7 inches of snow the speedometer has never been hooked up, one never came with the car in the 70's when purchased - thanks

 

Jim

IMG_0110.JPG

IMG_0111.JPG

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Jim,

   Look at some of the Model T sites like Snyders.  I bet these are the correct ends.  Someone probably has new chain too.  I noticed in my chart above that it covers 1924 and above Buicks.   

 

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/stewart-drive-cable-end-set

589cf5ba39a1c_pre1924Buickspeedoinnercableends.thumb.JPG.33cd6dbf6154cd3126a5caa115f5874e.JPG

 

Langs sells a replacement modern cable, so there is a lot of digging you can do.  There are also several links on Model T forums about how to repair your cable. 

 

https://www.modeltford.com/item/CKIT6.aspx

589cf6e6b3c37_1923Buickspeedoinnercable.thumb.JPG.3c6a43c21e82bed66f5ddf72346480c0.JPG

 

Hugh

 

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

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Hugh, the two ends pictured in the Snyder's ad are correct for Jim's 1923 Model 48 Stewart Speedometer Cable.  He could probably get them from Russ Furstnow for less money.  Then there is the matter of the chain links.  The problem with Lang's kit of parts is that they state that it is for a 6-foot cable housing.  Jim has told us that the cable housing for his Dad's car measures 65 7/16".  One cannot jam 72 inches of drive cable into a housing that is shorter than 66 inches - that very quickly rules that option out.  I spoke with Jim this afternoon and we both learned a few things from each other.  His Dad's '23 has the speedometer output drive coming off the LEFT side of the transmission case end.  Now, on my '20, it drives from the RIGHT side of the transmission case.  I cannot say with absolute fact that my '22 Model 48 drives off the right side, but I think it does.  I did not know this about the '23 models.  To keep the car as original as possible, Russ can get him as many links as they need to make things operational.  Stewart used the chain link system for many years back in the day and it worked just fine.  A properly adjusted and maintained original system will work just fine also.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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John, thank you for setting me straight about the '22.  I hadn't looked at that part of the drive line for quite some time and wasn't 100% sure about that.  I am positive about the '20 though.  Barbara helped me thread the chain links into the flexible housing 4 times on that car before I got the number of links exactly right.  There must be about a quarter of a pound of Lubri-Plate White grease in that flexible housing that those chain links wallow around in.  I put my floor jack under the rear axle and put about 2/10 of a mile on the odometer to make sure that everything was going to run OK.  I replaced three broken links in three separate tries before I finally figured out that there was one too many links.  Left the last one out and things worked perfect.

 

Terry Wiegand

Doo Dah Kansas

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Terry,

      It looks like the Langs kit is a buyer "cut to length" kit, and the driven end has an axial tab to allow for the small amount of axial variation that the chain style provides.  Russ is a good source too.   Hugh. 

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Talked with Russ (great guy) he has what I need - links and upper clutch chain, question thou about the slider on the trany end, it doesn't lock in place in the cylinder, is it a adjustment for the links and it slides to make up for link length? Next it is quite a bend from the left side of the trany up towards the dash - thanks in advance gentleman

Jim

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Jim, what you said about the connection on the transmission output is exactly right.  The flat strip makes up for the length of the chain link.  That whole end piece rotates in the housing collar.  Just make sure that you pull the 6 foot piece of soft wire that is connected to the last link of the chain through a glob of grease in a shop towel as you pull it into the flexible housing.  I understand what you are thinking about the bend in the housing - it might seem like a really tight curve, or bend, but if you have the links in the chain really globbed up good with grease, I don't think that you will have any problems.  If this will help you, call Russ and tell him what your concerns are.  He walked me through this process when I did it on my '20 and things worked great after I broke three links in a row.  Barbara and I can do it real good now.

 

Terry Wiegand

Out in Doo Dah

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