1928 spark advance lever

[Guest]

I need the lower spark advance lever that goes on the bottom of the steering column and connects to the linkage for a GE Dictator. It is the smallest of the 3 on the bottom of the column. I think they were the same on many models that year. Help.

[Mark Huston]

It is going to be tough to come up with an original replacement. They are made of pot metal and if you find an intact one for sale it will break after you install it and start to use it. There was a guy in Spokane, WA who was reproducing them in bronze. He has closed his shope for a couple years while he is out of the country. You might look around and see if you can find someone to recast yours in bronze so you never have to worry about it breaking again.

[Guest stude8]

Studeboy:<BR>You don't have to be real creative to get some 5/16" Brass plate, layout the shape in ink and in about a half hour on a drill press and a sharp hacksaw you can make one of those little bell cranks yourself. They are simply a pinch clamp on the column shaft end and a link hole on the rod end.<BR>The guy that did recast them was Steve Muntz and I heard he is back at it again on a limited basis, he made a sidemount arm for a friends 31 Commander late lastyear.<BR>Try it, you will surprise yourself how easy some things are to make rather than find.<BR>Stude8

[Stude-1939]

I have a 1929 Studebaker President 8. All of the levers on the steering wheel have been broken off. I have nothing to go by as far as what they look like. Is there anyone out in Stuedbakerland that would be kind enought to share this information with me? I do not know how this could be done, unless someone were to send clay moldings, or possibly sketches...<BR>I am working despertaly to restore the car as close to original as possible. <BR>Thanks;<BR>Dan Tepera<BR>djtepera@pdq.net[*]null

[dave woodson]

Dan<P>If you haven't solved your problem with coluum levers it is my understanding that someone has been reproducing these in brass. I don't know who but you can make these out of plate steel. It takes some time and some basic tools and some time. It took me about 12 hours. Only thing I had to go by was the crumbled remains which I put together like a puzzle on duck tape and then cut the bases from 1\8 plate, the stems and thumb handles from the same then welded them together then on a belt sander took away all the metal that didn't look like the picture I found in a parts manual that I have.I do have a drawing I made of each with diminations to make them function. Someone out there must know if they are reproduces cause I know they all broke.<P><BR>I have been laid up lately due to back surgery and won't be working on my car for at least 3 months. About the only thain I can work is my mouth and my mind. They both have a tendency to get me in trouble.<P>Dave Woodson

[Guest stude8]

To all the guys with broken Spark, Throttle and Light Switch levers:<BR>These were first reproduced in Silicon Bronze by ASC founder Bill Cannon during the 1970's. They are not easily repro'd by the faint of heart. Bill did them in three sections, the handle, the riser stem and the action plate that drives the rotator tubes down the center of the steering column and then silver brazed them all together. This method was used to avoid a difficult casting pattern fabrication.<BR>Bill gave it up many years ago to Steve Munts, 4903 South Mohawk Dr., Spokane, WA 99206; 509-924-4572. Steve took a sabatical for a year or so but is back supplying other cast parts according to recent ads. Try him to see if he is still doing the lever sets. He does supply many small metal parts for prewar Studes, ask for his flyer. The handle shapes are different for 1929/30 and 1931.<BR>Also keep in mind if your handles are broken the rotator tubes may have damaged tabs and they are a devil to fix. They must be retracted out the top of the column, cleaned, relubed and reinstalled other wise they develop so much friction you could damage your new handles. Stude8.