2carb40

1956 Dynaflow repair and mounting mods

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Posted (edited)

Picked up my 1956 Dynaflow from Bob's Midwest Transmission 320-982-6656 in Milaka, MN. When Bob checked it out he said it looked new inside, YAAAY! but someone had installed the front seal backwards, so I'm glad he installed a new one correctly. New gaskets and torque ball kit installed after swapping in my 55 coarse splined U joint for the fine splined 56 unit. Removed clutch pack and just reinstalled. Total bill 240.00! My friend took his 1950 there same time cuz he wanted the stuck convertor plugs removed and convertor flushed, as he wanted a reliable trans behind the rebuilt 263 for the convert in the post below. Inspected clutch and bands as well Total bill 125.00! Report on operation to follow after install.

PS found a 1950 dynaflow torque ball cast iron piece with U-joint bushing that bolts to torque tube flange and its 1" shorter than 1955, so now 1956 dynaflow is same length as my 1955 Century without cutting torque to make the trans bolt in. Yaaaay!

Edited by 2carb40
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Greg,

The last sentence gets lost. This is really good information to have since you were going to do major surgery to make it fit.

Keep us posted.

Also, this info may Ned to be in Post war just on its own once you get verification that it works.

Good job.

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Also wondering if you need a 56 crossmember (that the trans mount and thrustpad attach) or can you use a 55?

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Posted (edited)

Greg,

The last sentence gets lost. This is really good information to have since you were going to do major surgery to make it fit.

Keep us posted.

Also, this info may Ned to be in Post war just on its own once you get verification that it works.

Good job.

Thanx for the encouragement! I'm glad to be able to share this info as its taken me more money in Buick publications than I care to count to get to this point. The ultimate test will be to see if it all goes together as the original stuff did, not easy, of course, but at least no worse than these enclosed shafts are to deal with to begin with.

OK, now on with more measurements for interchangeability if your not sleeping yet!

I took some pix of the two different cast torque balls installed on the rear of the 1956 Trans to illustrate the difference in length, '55 first, with 1950 ball second. I also took pix of the Buick 1960-'61 service bulletin book where Buick is trying to show their own techs how to tell the difference between years of Dynaflows.I checked depth front to back 55 bell at 5-3/4"-1956 at 6-1/5". Overall bell front edge to cast rear mating surface of torque ball 24-3/4"for'55- 25-1/5" for'56post-102998-0-24738000-1454264940_thumb.post-102998-0-16417800-1454264969_thumb.post-102998-0-25164600-1454265816_thumb.post-102998-0-50103900-1454265855_thumb.post-102998-0-14103200-1454265903_thumb.post-102998-0-24530500-1454266020_thumb.post-102998-0-83072800-1454266062_thumb.post-102998-0-75495400-1454266102_thumb.post-102998-0-26136300-1454266188_thumb.post-102998-0-34817100-1454266224_thumb.I also read in a post on another Buick site that the straight 8 bellhosing for 1953 was changed to match the updated 1953 transmissions for the 53 year. Alleycat is his handle and he said you can use later transmissions on the small straight eights with the 53 help housing. An intriuging idea, a 55or 56 Trans behind a 263? With variable pitch and greater torque multiplication might make a 263 accelerate much more quickly from a dead stop! Hope someone can use this crazy stuff. Good luck and let me know success if tried please.Whew!

I forgot to add. The torque ball retainer cup pictured is the new one available with a thick rubber vulcanized right to the metal. Those are available now for '48-'52, as well as '55. The thick ring in in the photo is a re-infocreing ring that my book shows starting in'55, as that's the only year my 1930-1955 chassis parts manual shows it for. I think they added it to try and deal with the bad reputation for leaky Dynas'. Bolt pattern the same back to '48 dyna, no reason it couldn't be added. The cast ball seems to fit with the vulcanized retainer whether '50 or '55 configuration. I'll go with that until I find out different!

Edited by 2carb40 (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

Also wondering if you need a 56 crossmember (that the trans mount and thrustpad attach) or can you use a 55?

Another mystery to solve. I don't know yet on that question. I am next reassembling the 56 Century engine that came with this transmission so I can run it on my engine run-in stand I built before I install as a unit. He told me the engine ran great, he just changed to "bellybutton", no offense intended, just a little humor for the 350" engine owners out there. He was just curious to see what condition it looked like inside. Not to tough, still assembled short block with oilpan lifters water pump and balancer still attached. More fun!post-102998-0-03822400-1454270035_thumb.post-102998-0-22399400-1454271642_thumb. Edited by 2carb40 (see edit history)

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Greg,

The last sentence gets lost. This is really good information to have since you were going to do major surgery to make it fit.

Keep us posted.

Also, this info may Ned to be in Post war just on its own once you get verification that it works.

Good job.

I guess we can ask the rules guys if its appropriate to post this on postwar or even prewar as an old guy like me might like to keep driving a 1940 with a dynaflow even if my arthritis and rotator cuff might not like shifting a stick. Hopefully I can find out how good the straight eight 1953 Special bellhousing would work to get it done!
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Seems enough modifying is being done that this is the right place for it but yea, could be of interest to both post and prewar also so I have posted some links in each directing folks here. (Actually the P/M forum needs all the traffic and onlookers it can get)

Would love to have a 56 dflow in my Century for sure!

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Posted (edited)

I put a '56 dynaflow in my '55 Special. I removed it from my '55 Century parts car! Then found out it was a 56 trans with alum bell hsg and 1" longer. Install in the 55 Special was routine, only slotted some holes and used same crossmember.

The '56 ujoint will need to be replaced with the '55 to mate with driveshaft.

Edited by TexasJohn55 (see edit history)

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I put a '56 dynaflow in my '55 Special. I removed it from my '55 Century parts car! Then found out it was a 56 trans with alum bell hsg and 1" longer. Install in the 55 Special was routine, only slotted some holes and used same crossmember.The '56 ujoint will need to be replaced with the '55 to mate with driveshaft.

Greetings and Thanx for info. Replaced the ujoint with coarse spline too and also picked up a like new shorter torque ball(1950 dyna) from Bob at his Trans shop where the disassembly and reseal work was done. Held me up for 35.00, but looked like new! Just kidding about the held me up part, I actually forced him to take two twenty's. The question I have is did everything seem to fit easily or did it seem tighter when you put the longer trans in? I talked with a friend in CA who said it always looked like the rear tires weren't quite aligned in the wheel openings at the back on his '55 Century. He'd bought the car that way, then figured out about the later trans install that happened before he bought the car and said it made sense once he new about the change. That's what prompted me to find the shorter torque ball that came on 48-early 52. My books show that stick and dyna cast ball have different part #s, but since I found a dyna part I haven't checked difference yet. Excited now to swap out trans so I can drive without worry about environmental disasters from leaked trans oil! PS For folks looking for hard parts for dynas, many loose hard parts and parts transmission there! Give him a call.
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2carb40,

 

Actually my rear wheels look to be centered in the wheel wells and an inch forward would look odd in my mind. I don't recall any other areas of concern, it just moved everything back 1". The extra length of the '56 trans over the 55 is the bell hsg (and corresponding converter).

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2carb40,

 

Actually my rear wheels look to be centered in the wheel wells and an inch forward would look odd in my mind. I don't recall any other areas of concern, it just moved everything back 1". The extra length of the '56 trans over the 55 is the bell hsg (and corresponding converter).

Thanx for reasureing me with that info! I'm really impatient to get it swapped out so I can see how it drives. We are in the two months(Feb&Mar) that produce the most snowfall on average of the winter. We had a mild fall, but the memory fades quickly with current conditions! All I need is another couple buildings of about 100x100 feet! Thanx for your input. It's really helpful that you give you time to help,. Best Regards, Greg

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2carb40:

I also have heard that the 53 Series 40 bell housing will bolt up to earlier straight eight engines and allow the use of the 1953 Series 40 Twin Turbine Dynaflow instead of the earlier 1948-52 units. However, I am not sure that the 53 Series 50 & 70 Twin Turbine Dynaflows and later Dynaflows for the V-8's will be a good match to the straight eight engines. Please report here if you hear of anyone who has used the later Dynaflows with the straight eight engines.

A very interesting thread with much good information. Thanks for posting.

Joe, BCA 33493

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2carb40:

I also have heard that the 53 Series 40 bell housing will bolt up to earlier straight eight engines and allow the use of the 1953 Series 40 Twin Turbine Dynaflow instead of the earlier 1948-52 units. However, I am not sure that the 53 Series 50 & 70 Twin Turbine Dynaflows and later Dynaflows for the V-8's will be a good match to the straight eight engines. Please report here if you hear of anyone who has used the later Dynaflows with the straight eight engines.

A very interesting thread with much good information. Thanks for posting.

Joe, BCA 33493

I actually think if the cars are able to be retrofit it would increase performance, possibly significantly. The 1955 dyna was first year for variable pitch in the convertor, the torque multiplication on takeoff is in the two to one range, but only in drive. The 1956 dyna added another torque multiplier in the torque converter and the multiplication went to 3.5 to 1 and has the variable pitch feature in all gears including reverse! I can't help but think on the small straight eights if the 53 bell allows you to use the '55 dyna convertor and center section with the original rear bearing retainer you would be creating a dramatic and visually undetectiable improvement in drivability in an age when I've encountered impatient tailgater's who don't seem to like me in the way slowly, which creates stress we don't need when trying to enjoy these cars.

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Greg,

The last sentence gets lost. This is really good information to have since you were going to do major surgery to make it fit.

Keep us posted.

Also, this info may Ned to be in Post war just on its own once you get verification that it works.

Good job.

Bikini time! Broke all time high temp. record set in 1896, 58 degrees F high temp. Sat. Aftnoon. Got under the '55 to start seeing what's what. Yike! Maybe pix I took will show well enuff to see what happens when a guy who knows how to lite a cutting torch and stick exhaust pipes together with oxy/acetylene butchers and weakens a nice California chassis cutting a jagged oversize hole for the new pipe. Agggghhh! Surprise! Least I got a little inspection done b4 back to a cold front which will drop in bringing snow. YAY! WPA, still stands for "we poke along", depression era joke my folks usta use. Exhaust removal starts next. Found the rear axle wouldn't drop becuz exhaust pipes were holding up rear link. Don't know how this car would've moved up and down in rear with this configuration of pipes. I think maybe politicians designed this! Details to follow.post-102998-0-46562600-1456681099_thumb.post-102998-0-99808000-1456681142_thumb.post-102998-0-61243000-1456681164_thumb.post-102998-0-76327000-1456681178_thumb.

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Posted (edited)

On 2/1/2016 at 7:00 AM, MrEarl said:

Seems enough modifying is being done that this is the right place for it but yea, could be of interest to both post and prewar also so I have posted some links in each directing folks here. (Actually the P/M forum needs all the traffic and onlookers it can get)

Would love to have a 56 dflow in my Century for sure!

Update on parts research. Photos of different cast steel torque balls I found. Two tall ones are '55&6: next shorter is '48-52 Dyna: shortest is older 6 bolt cover stick. This is the one I'll be attempting to use, as it's a full 1" shorter than the 55-56. The 48-52 Dyna will prolley work, as it's 3\4" shorter, but as long as I could get 1" with the shortest one I'll take it cuz that's as close as I could come to correct and not putting any stress on the design engineering of the suspension. If you have a Super or a Roadmaster the length is already correct, stop reading now, know-it-all class is over for you, recess time! I got a call as I was at the machinist garage with my torque ball. The caller asked if I could help with Dyna length on his 55 Special. The trans was from a 56 and both motor mounts and the trans crossmember mount were broken. Hmm! I sent him a shorter torque ball and remachined another. I'm going to attempt assembly today, prayers accepted, Thanx ,Greg Why did they name the three-legged junkyard dog "Lucky"?

PS the modification is to remove the shoulder on the older torque ball where the original lip seal was placed. On the later ones theres a recess there(no not school recess) for clearance becuz the later ones have the lip seal in the flange at the front of the torque tube flange.IMG_20160503_135635.jpgIMG_20160503_135614.jpgIMG_20160503_135957.jpgIMG_20160503_140005.jpg

 

Edited by 2carb40
Lite not britest bulb on tree! (see edit history)

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Posted (edited)

On 2/1/2016 at 7:00 AM, MrEarl said:

Seems enough modifying is being done that this is the right place for it but yea, could be of interest to both post and prewar also so I have posted some links in each directing folks here. (Actually the P/M forum needs all the traffic and onlookers it can get)

Would love to have a 56 dflow in my Century for sure!

Greetings

            Devil's in the details! Just about to start reassembly and decided to check and see how the old 6 bolt stick torque ball fit over the 55 inner stamped steel dome. Turns out the 6 bolt stick one is slightly smaller diameter, didn't think this would be a problem till I did a fit up of the 6 bolt stick verses 48-52 Dyna. The 6bolt is shorter until it's sitting on the inner dome. The smaller diameter means when "stacked" the 48-52 Dyna ball and the inner stamped ball are actually shorter overall. Whew! It's goin' together now, Heck or high water! First pic six bolt stick second pic 48-52 Dyna shorter overall!

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IMG_20160503_153626.jpg

IMG_20160503_153706.jpg

Edited by 2carb40
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On 2/1/2016 at 7:00 AM, MrEarl said:

Seems enough modifying is being done that this is the right place for it but yea, could be of interest to both post and prewar also so I have posted some links in each directing folks here. (Actually the P/M forum needs all the traffic and onlookers it can get)

Would love to have a 56 dflow in my Century for sure!

The next fly in the oinment! Got the 1956 Dyna bolted to the bell housing! Released the rachet straps holding back the rear end. Managed to get the splines to line up! Drive shaft moved forward and stopped approx 1/2" from the flanges mating up. I found the sleeve on the splines on the front of the driveshaft that the seal rides on ran into the back of the face of the Ujoint. The sleeve protrudes approx 3/8" past the front of where the seal rides, so I will cut the front of the sleeve off with the cutoff wheel on my cordless dremal tool. I'm also going to fab a 1/4" spacer to fit between the flanges for a bit more slack. At this point my shaky senior math says I've cut the length difference from 1" down to 1/2". If I cut about 1/8" from the back of the ujoint, I would be just about there, but taking the torque ball apart again with the trans bolted in the car is doable but frustrating to say the least! Trust me it ain't over!

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Posted (edited)

rps20170318_175015_765.thumb.jpg.fdac296ad9b9a3e2529297958a450825.jpgGreetings folks!

        After a winter slumber, finally got back on the 56 dyna in 55 Century. Had the drive shaft sorted B4 winter stopped me, but needed to reconfigure trans mount for the 1" move of the trans toward the rear becuz of the longer length of the 56 trans. Tried turning the cross member end for end 180 degrees. No dice! With the cross member having a 3/4"offset curve it amounted to a 1-1/2" move, too far and I also would have to drill three holes in the blank vertical facing rearward now for the thrust part of the mount to bolt to. Frustrated, I picked up the standard trans crossmember I was scavenging bolts from and vi-OLEE, THE CENTER LINE UP RIGHT UNDER THE HOLES FOR THE TRANS MOUNT CUSHION! Lined them both up and marked hole spacing and the photos hopefully show the rest! YAY! Bolting in car next with newfound confidence that this thing will drive soon!rps20170318_174625_672.thumb.jpg.f697eb0e52f70b5dc96d309e78d0f46a.jpgrps20170318_174737_528.jpg.83c18dab29066a83de475c1fb47e3f48.jpg

 

Edited by 2carb40
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Drilled top of cross member for mount pad to bolt to as stick version has different hole location. Had to do some filing of bolt holes as the aftermarket thrust pad with three studs on each side was not precisely jigged when vulcanized and studs were up to 1/4" off from stock stuff, so re-enforcing plates that are supposed to slide on over the studs for extra support when installed, wouldn't. Pretty amazing how this finally went together relatively easy once I discovered the stick crossmember was going to solve the alignment issue. All tightened up now so I can move to reassemble rear suspension and refurbish brakes. Can't wait to test drive this thing for first time. Been up on jack stands for quite some time! Nice to have it move under it's own power without the major trans fluid dump I had with the other Dyna trans. Details to follow. 

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Posted (edited)

Well, 2day was the day. Can't Harley believe I didn't get pulled off the Buickling by some family issues! Long, unattractive story. Anywho, checked the link connecting the column shift to the arm on my newly installed '56 dyna. I know it's been a long time, but it's still new 2 me. Came up short like I figured I would. That inch longer trans thing is keepin' the fun @ fever pitch! Cut the sucker with my dealt cordless 4.5" lifesaver. Then I welded an extension in with the aid of my metal stretching wirefeed welder. Just got in from driveway after connecting link and checking all the detents, they seem to line up when moved with column lever. Now on to freshly stainless sleeved master cyl install and check wheel cylinders. Holy Hannah! This thing may yard drive soon! More details to follow.

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Edited by 2carb40
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You did it right.  I usually stretch bolts and shafts with pipe or tubing of the same inside diameter and braze....then try to hide it from prying eyes.:(

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Posted (edited)

Installed trans links and the resleeved master cyl 2day! Pretty happy with results. Decided to use new stainless bolts and nuts on master. Man, the top bolt on the bolt flange of the master was designed by an engineer not a mechanic, imho. Thanks for the comments! I really like hoggin' the paint on after grinding my mistakes off. My auto darkening helmet didn't last time, so I'm having to use the flip down, ouch, my welding suffered! Gotta get that fixed or replaced!

rps20170402_202103_468.thumb.jpg.eb3d67c41263175faed428fa1f72aaa2.jpgrps20170402_202202_012.thumb.jpg.252bf41b7abb4cd4f33b83fda02265f3.jpgrps20170402_202339_571.jpg.d372d338a5e6f1bf71a27df4515cf92f.jpgrps20170402_202439_487.thumb.jpg.290c1a22b99b8964fcc4c3d5eedcda06.jpg

Edited by 2carb40
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Good news

Just ordered 4 new complete brake wheel cyls from Jackson auto and Machine in Duluth, MN 64.OO includes shipping, yeah! New Orleans for the weekend, then look out world, its test drive time with the new 56 trans, woohoo!

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1 minute ago, 2carb40 said:

Good news

Just ordered 4 new complete brake wheel cyls from Jackson auto and Machine in Duluth, MN 64.OO includes shipping, yeah! New Orleans for the weekend, then look out world, its test drive time with the new 56 trans, woohoo!

We look forward to the report out on the test drive!

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Just got back in after a contortionist party! Salvaged some real nice trans cooler lines from a 1956 Super! Decided to tackle the one attaching to the trans fitting toward the front of the trans. Wow! I was down to my last try with my Snap-on open end " hydraulic" wrench. My hands still hurt from the one flat at a time nightmare.

When I looked toward the radiator I noticed the triangle shaped motor mount frame bracket and thought, maybe the cooler lines are supposed to run thru there instead of beside it? Anyone know how 1956 lines are routed, thru or beside that triangle? I think those solid lines are going to be cut and correct rubber lines for trans fluid installed inline for easier servicing!

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