1949 'Baby' Lincoln hydraulic pump installation

[Guest Linc49er]

Hello.  I'm new to the forum and would apprceciate help with a problem that has me stumped.

 

I have recently bought a 1949 Lincoln 9EL, the flathead V8 that was also known as the 'Baby' Lincoln, which I am restoring.  Like a number off other cars from and after that era, including the bigger and better known Cosmopolitan, the 9EL has an hydraulic pump that operates the power (hydraulic) windows, convertible roof and seat adjustment.  The pump is a 'Dura Pump', made by Hydro E-lectric.  The company still exists today, and I had my pump re-built by them this fall, so it is in full working, restored condition and is warranted.

 

So far so good, but my problem is that having initially removed my Dura Pump, I am confused about how to re-wire it now that it is back in the car.  The three hydraulic lines are in the right place, but I'm not sure about the electrical wiring, especially since some of the wires were different colors when the pump came back from the rebuild.  There are four wires, with one seemingly obvious 'hot'one that connects to the pump solenoid, but the other three can all fit the remaining three connections.  There are two on top of the Bakkelite Switch, and the other is on the side of the switch body.  You'd think trail and error would sort this out, but it hasn't.

 

At present, having filled the pump reservoir with ATF (now recommended), I can make the driver's side window go up if I turn on the ignition and manually turn the Bakkelite Switch while also pressing the window switch, but the other windows won't raise, although the solenoid in each one clicks when I press the relevent switch.  That is as far as I have got.

 

What should happen is that with the ignition on, depressing any window switch should send current to the Bakkelit Switch and make it twist to allow hydraulic fluid to flow to the piston beneath that window, but that isn't happening.

 

A wiring diagram would help, or photographs with an explanation of what I need to do or am doing wrong.  I've been in touch with Hydro E-lectric, but they don't have any diagrams.  The car has been unused for many years, and the hydraulic system had become dry - when I re-filled the reservoir and ran the pump, I assume that a lot of the fluid remained in the pipes and the working window piston, which may explain why three of the winows won't lift, but that isn't any help re. how to make the window switches activate the Bakkelite Switch. 

 

Thank you for any help and advice.

[19tom40]

I cannot find a wiring diagram for the control valve and switch in the Overhaul Manual. You can order a CD or re-print from Macs.

 

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_late/catalogsearch/result/?q=overhaul+manual&x=18&y=13

 

Looking at the diagrams for the pump operation, it looks like the control valve is only used for the top, the windows are controlled by the switches. The center wire of the switch is hot when the ignition is on and the top wire goes to the pump solenoid center terminal. It is hot when the switch is in the "up" position and will pick the solenoid to run the pump. The bottom wire of the window switch goes to the window solenoid and control valve. It is hot when the switch is in the "down" position. It activates the window solenoid to allow the spring tension to lower the window. I believe that the control switch must be in the neutral position for the widows and seat controls to operate. The wire from the window switch probably goes to the control valve and then to the solenoid. The center wire on the solenoid should show continuity to the window wire when the control switch is in the neutral position.

 

I just see 3 connections on the solenoid. The connection on the passenger side of the pump is for the battery, the center connection is the "motor wire" and is hot when the window switch is in the "UP" position or the top switch is activated, the terminal on the driver's side of the solenoid connects to the pump motor.

 

It would help if you could post some photos of your pump and the "Bakkelit Switch". along with the wires that you are trying to connect. I hope that my post has helped you.

[Guest Linc49er]

Thanks for the time taken to try and explain this, Tom.  Your post does help, but I'lm still a bit confused in thinking abiut how to implement what you've said.  I think you're right that it would help to post some pictures of the firewall pump and Bakelite top control valve (I had written 'Bakkelite' originally, which is the wrong spelling).  I won't be where the car is for a few days, but I'll take some photos when next there, and post them.

Thanks again.

[Guest Linc49er]

Hello Tom,

    I finally managed to get some photographs of the Hudro-E-Lectric Dura pump, including the Bakelite switch, on the 1949 Lincoln 9EL.  These pictures are in reasonably high resolution, so you should be able to zoom in on them and see all aspects of the pump unit in detail.

 

I think all the hoses and lines are correctly installed, but can you see where I have gone wrong with the wiring?  In addition to the ground cable, there are four wires; the large (thick) lead to the passenger side of the pump solenoid, which is an original lead; the two smaller wires I have connected to the top of the (Bakelite) switch unit, which are original wires; the black wire I have connected between the front of the pump solenoid and the switch - when the pump was re-built, Hydro-E-Lectric also sent me this wire, which is new, to replace the old and frayed one I'd sent in to them with the pump assembly.

 

Keep in mind that I did get the passenger side front window to go up, but I think it did that because I was inadvertently overriding the door switches to the pump, which was running as long as the ignition was on.  Maybe the reason no other window would go up is because the system had been completely drained of hydraulic fluid (ATF) and so when the pump moved fluid from the reservoir into the system, it left the reservoir low and the system now needs to be topped-up.

 

I'm sure you're aware of this, but the car is positively grounded and on a 6-volt system.  Due to my inexperience with this car and other Ford/Lincolns of that era, I don't know if positive grounding and 6-volts is the norm.

 

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

[19tom40]

All Ford Motor Co vehicles were POS ground until they went to 12 Volts.

 

I do not have a good diagram of where the wires connect, so you can use a trial and error method to find your problem. The switch shown in the Shop Manual is different than yours.

 

Does the "bakelight" switch have a terminal marked BAT. If so, there should be 6 volts on that terminal, The other wires will have 6 volts when the window up switch is activated.

 

The round cylinder with 2 wires and the ground is the motor solenoid. The heavy wire on the terminal opposite of the ground is from the battery and should have 6 volts on it at all times. The wire in the center is called the motor wire and it will pick the solenoid and the motor should run and pump fluid.

 

Does the motor run from the window switch? If it does, the wires are connected correctly.

 

If it does not run from the window switch, check for voltage on the wires on the top of "Bakelight" switch when the window switch is in the UP position. and the motor wire must also have voltage.

 

If the motor runs when the switch is activated in the UP position, your problem is probably air in the window cylinder.

[Guest Linc49er]

Hello Tom,

    Thank you for taking the time to post this information.  I've been away, hence the time it's taken to acknowledge you.  Hopefully, I'll be able to get the pump operating properly now, though I'll have to wait for thr weather to warm-up a bit.  I'll keep you posted.

 

Thanks again.