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DOME LIGHT QUESTION


LAS VEGAS DAVE

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The dome light in my car does not work, I was going to check the bulb but I don't see how to remove the chrome ring surrounding the plastic lense. I thought it would have a small screw in it but I don't see one. Before I try to pry it off I thought I would ask someone on here the proper way way to remove it. The car is a 38 Special model 41. 

 

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Thanks for the reply Bob, I tried rotating it but it does not move either way. I think it prys off but I wont try that unless I know for sure. I will probably unscrew the dome light switch on the inner door post and see if its getting juice to the switch itself, if it isn't that will have to be fixed before I need to get to the bulb. If it is getting juice then I'll have to get to the bulb. Its the only thing on this car that does not work and although I don't need it I just would like it to work. 

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You might try pushing in (towards the roof before trying to twist. I've encountered several that were just slightly corroded to the mounting ring. What does the shop manual say?

When you get the bulb out, see if its contact is a round-headed brass screw, as was the case in my dear departed (but only two blocks away) 1939 Cadillac 75. I compensated for decades of spring fatigue by backing off that screw half a turn.

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On my 40 special the lens comes out by gentle prying on the sides. Be careful, my lens was so brittle it cracked. I was able to get a new one from a vendor, not brittle and comes in and out easily. Turns out the bulb was not making contact.

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Dave, I have a `35 chevy master, `35 Pontiacs and a `36 Buick all have a round dome light and the lens/bezel snaps off by just a downward pull. Mine are all the same except the Chevys switch is a pull stud that protrudes thru a hole in the bezel. I`d say give it a downward pull and it`ll come off.. Tom

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Here i8s a photo of the 46S dome light assembly

Thanks so much for the pictures and the replies. I inserted a credit card gently under the ring and it popped right off. The bulb was not making good contact so I thought that the problem was solved, unfortunately its not getting juice to the bulb socket. I guess if I want to fix it I'll have to find where the wire going to the switch originates and trace from there. Thanks again for the help.

Edited by LAS VEGAS DAVE (see edit history)
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Often bad grounds are a problem with the dome light. If you look closely at the left photo, you can see a screw head just to the right of the light socket for the ground wire. Even on that part there is significant corrosion. I forget what the ground wire attaches to on the body.

Also, the positive terminal for the bulb in the socket is actually a screw that pinches the feed wire via a special nut the wire goes through. That screw can come loose and loose contact.

The upper assembly is held in place via 4 wood screws and can easily be removed to check things out and see if you are actually getting voltage to the bulb.

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Dont forget to check the switch to to be sure voltage is getting to that. Also that switch is over 75 years old too and subject to contact oxidation. It can be disassembled to clean up.  Diagnosis is everything.

Another thing, there is a plug behind the dash that connects the front end wiring to the rear wiring. There may be oxidation of the contacts there too.

Since yours is a low mileage car, that is no guarantee there can't be electrical gremlins just due to age and unuse.

 

Good luck, it can be a PITA.

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Don I took the switch off the doorpost but the upulstery was caught in it and I didn't want to rip it so I just put the screws back in and didn't fiddle with it. I am now committed to fixing the dome light so I will get back to the switch. First I'm going to remove the dome light assembly from the roof and see if I get lucky and find the problem. Yesterday I put a 180 thermostat in the car so the dome light went on hold for a while. I will get to it again soon. Thanks for your help. By the way where is Menlo Park?

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