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46-48 air cleaner


jcmiller

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Does anyone have a diagram or know how the inside of the main portion of this air cleaner is constructed?  I had it tanked to remove grease and paint and there is now some liquid inside of it.  No matter how I rotate it, it won't run out.  I'm speaking of the left, middle, and bottom portion of what is pictured here.  The upper part on the right and the internal element is removed.

 

Also, is the part on the left supposed to come off?  It looks like it should, but mine is on pretty tight and I don't want to force it off.

 

Thx.

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Another side effect of tanking the air cleaner is that the filter material within the housing dissolved (lower left in photo).  I thought it was made of thin wire, but it must have been fibrous material of some sort.  Does anyone know what it was or have a suggestion for replacement material?  I'm thinking of using a rough gauge steel wool.  Thx.

 

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Guest Bob Call

A quick Google of coir and it looks like it is widely used in the plant nursery business. Check with a local nursery for availability. Can you get into the compartment where the filter material is supposed to go? I would suggest you try to get coir or use coarse steel wool. 

 

Those kitchen scrubby things that Jack mentions are apparently an important part of a meth lab. Purchase of more that one or two may raise suspicion and get the local narcs snooping around.

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HMMM,

I guess I wouldn't know anything about that.

Fact is I don't do many dishes either.

 

Now that I know what coir is.

 

Do any of you guys watch 'Mystery of Oak Island' on the history channel?

These guys are hunting for pirates treasure and/or the Holy Grail.

They keep finding all of these weird things that they hope lead them to the treasure, I guess there have been searchers looking there for a couple hundred years and the place is all dug up and grown over.

Any way they think that the Masons or some one built a system of boobie traps to protect the loot.

They found a beach where they think there is a system that will flood every cave etc. on the island.

The inlets to this flood  system are filtered with coconut fiber that is a couple of thousand years old. The stuff holds up pretty good as its in the tide every day for that long.

They also figured out that the closest coconut trees are a couple of thousand miles away.

 

Its a mystery.

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I know about Oak Island. An archaeological dig would turn up evidence of who built what, when, and possibly why. Unfortunately an American contractor bulldozed the top 20 feet of soil off the island in the 1960s thinking to find treasure. He found nothing, but destroyed massive amounts of evidence. Including a stone figure on the ground that may have been the key to the mystery.

 

Some artifacts have been found, I believe they and the coir date to the 1600s.

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
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I watched it last night and I had the name wrong.

Its 'The curse of Oak Island'.

An interesting story and I agree with Rusty, the early treasure hunters raped the place.

I still get a kick out of the series other than that "reality" format that repeats insignificant details over and over.

 

I am sure that this is what an air filter question is supposed to end up as.  LOL

Sorry Jeff.

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  • 1 month later...

Whatever it is I wouldn't want it in my engine. You could drill a 1/8" drain hole, drain out the liquid and weld or solder the hole. Or use some JB weld epoxy.

 

I ended up drilling a couple small holes to pull out a dent in the air cleaner body.  I used JB Weld to fill the holes and remaining low spot.  I'm having a hard time eliminating the transition between the JB Weld and the rest of the air cleaner.  I've sanded it as flat as I can and primed and sanded a few times, but the transition is still visible.  I'm sure it will be even more visible once I paint it.  I don't have a lot of experience with body work.  What can I do to get rid of the edge?  I'm using high temp primer and paint and plan to bake it so am hoping to stick with high temp products.  Thx.

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Sand off the paint to bare metal in the area you want to fill. Spread an even coat of spot putty or glaze over an area about 6" diameter. Let dry thoroughly. Gently sand smooth with a sanding block starting with 120 sandpaper then 240 then 400. If you sand it smooth with 120 and find low spots, fill them, and start again. Don't sand down too far, if the JB Weld or metal peeks through stop. Either stop there and start painting or add more filler.

 

Primer and paint in the usual way. You don't need special high temp paint for this, it doesn't get that hot but go ahead and use it if you like.

 

Can you sand the hi temp primer? If so you need to sand it smooth with 400 before painting. Give it 2 or 3 thin wet coats of paint. Let it dry completely. Wet sand with 600 then 2 more thin wet coats of paint for a shiny 'show finish'.

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  • 1 month later...

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