"Best" daily driver?

[padgett]

I've always liked the P1800ES but thought we were talking about American cars. Personally have used a lot of multiple decades old cars as DDs but always have a backup.

[Guest]

I've always liked the P1800ES but thought we were talking about American cars. Personally have used a lot of multiple decades old cars as DDs but always have a backup.

Please refresh yourself with the original post. Some excerpts;

"

My real question is: Will any vintage car, new engine/original engine/rebuilt engine ever be a great daily driver? I know insurance is going to be difficult, especially for someone under 27 but I haven't even really thought anout it.. I probably should.."

Note the word ANY vintage car.

"Right now, my brother has a somewhat restored 1975 Mercedes C230 115 and my sister is in the process of restoring a 1971 Super beetle for a daily driver."

" My other option is buying something like a 2005 civic and just be done with it. I really don't know.."

Doesn't sound like just American cars to me.

Edited October 20, 2015 by helfen (see edit history)

[Guest Xeon]

Very interesting topic, and getting back to the OP's original question the answer can vary depending to many things. The first thing comes to mind is where and the weather conditions you are operating it in. I have not had to look in 30 years but do they even still make snow tires? Are you driving in an urban or rural area? Do you have alternate means of transportation if something brakes and you are waiting for a part? Are you familiar with the systems in an old car especially fuel delivery and ignition?

 

While everyone here on the site respects and appreciates the desire of a younger person using an old car for everyday transportation, the vast majority of employers and educators don't understand the reason for being late or missing a day is because your broke down (more then once) which can happen when a vintage machine is pressed into full service use in extreme conditions. Everyone here on the site has different needs and requirements as far as "everyday" transportation.

I did use 35-45 year old cars everyday to commute into NYC from Long Island, but the novelty wore off  about 15 years ago as I got older and parts were not ready over the counter for a needed repair. Just things to factor in.

However I use a 30 year old car as an every day driver when I go to my other home in Florida. I have an 1985 Caprice Wagon, ironically I had one when new and never really liked it then. It suits me just fine now in my retired lifestyle, where every day is Saturday and there really is no rush. I use for local use, but I know it is a 30 year old car the few time I ventured on the interstate, where 80+mph is the norm, so local roads it is. My point is that the only essential trip I need to use it for is to go to Publix to get the NY Post, so if it does not start so I don't read the paper, no big deal. It is not like I have to go out and earn a degree or a day's pay.

 

Two of my three son's are in the hobby and this same conversation came up in our house. The important thing is to have a back up plan for those "if" and "when" moments. Not much different then someone who depends on a motorcycle as their main means of transportation who lives in the northeast

Good Luck, there are plenty of nice cars out there

 

I'll try to start from the top and answer the questions.

 

Alabama weather. Snow is close to unheard of, a 6 inches of it means half the state shuts down.

 

Both. We live in a semi rural area, only real rural thing is our 500ft gravel driveway.

 

As of now, we have a couple of backup cars. An old Civic, a 2012 Honda CRV(Gift) but of course these are owned by my parents so I won't have access to them after college. I plan on living home and just paying my share as we literally live 15 miles from the college I plan on starting at.

 

My father is(And I'm learning), which is why I really want something pre 80s. He'd love something else to work on but he's not really comfortable with anything mostly based on electronics. He'd rather manual windows, manual locks, etc. But mostly just a nice old fashioned engine.

 

Thanks so much for the info.. This community really is great..

 

Good daily driver? Find an old Volvo. Been running them for years, currrenty driving a 94 940, which is a nice car. Get the red block engine, which was in the 940 up to 95 and the 240 up to 92. Avoid any sort of 6, as they blow up. 780 turbo's are the best of the lot, but rare and expensive.

Boring? Yes, but easy to repair and good parts availablity. Hard to find a nice one now, as most have lots of miles and are getty scruffy. Miles is less of a concern than documented maintenance on these cars. My 89 had 317,236 on it when it was murdered by a 16 year old in a Nissan who had no concept of how to drive on a slippery road.

 

We did have one of these a few years ago before I was really interested! It was an older wagon. According to my father, it had one of the most reliable engines around, couldn't tell you what it was though..

 

I've always liked the P1800ES but thought we were talking about American cars. Personally have used a lot of multiple decades old cars as DDs but always have a backup.

 

Not just American, that's just what I see alot of in the old car scene. I was actually about to ask, were all Triumphs/MGs as bad as they're made out to be?

 

Please refresh yourself with the original post. Some excerpts;

"

My real question is: Will any vintage car, new engine/original engine/rebuilt engine ever be a great daily driver? I know insurance is going to be difficult, especially for someone under 27 but I haven't even really thought anout it.. I probably should.."

Note the word ANY vintage car.

"Right now, my brother has a somewhat restored 1975 Mercedes C230 115 and my sister is in the process of restoring a 1971 Super beetle for a daily driver."

" My other option is buying something like a 2005 civic and just be done with it. I really don't know.."

Doesn't sound like just American cars to me.

 

Pretty much. This thread did kinda turn towards fully American cars but I'm open to anything.

 

 

 

 

That reminds me, how were the old Datsun ZX cars? I love the look of them too!

[Rusty_OToole]

For years I drove nothing but old cars but always had a backup. Usually a car and a pickup truck or van. Would not want to depend on a vintage car as my sole transportation if I had no alternative. I hate to turn into a pedestrian.

 

If mass transit is available or someone else in the house has a car that is ok. You seldom need the backup, I would say in my case less than once a year. But it is inconvenient and annoying to be without transportation.

[Guest Xeon]

For years I drove nothing but old cars but always had a backup. Usually a car and a pickup truck or van. Would not want to depend on a vintage car as my sole transportation if I had no alternative. I hate to turn into a pedestrian.

 

If mass transit is available or someone else in the house has a car that is ok. You seldom need the backup, I would say in my case less than once a year. But it is inconvenient and annoying to be without transportation.

Definitely.

Found some cars I like!(They'll probably be gone before you look.)

http://bham.craigslist.org/cto/5277410818.html Cool and really what I'm looking for.

http://bham.craigslist.org/cto/5277468735.html I know.. Never going to happen. Between insurance and reliability..

http://bham.craigslist.org/cto/5277466377.html

http://bham.craigslist.org/cto/5277537484.html Alot of work.. But still awesome!

http://bham.craigslist.org/cto/5261996325.html Just awesome.

[padgett]

had a bunch of Jags (and a MGA) before I took the cure. Often would just take off and go 500 or 1,000 miles. Still do. Nothing wrong with english car that a spin on oil filter, silicon seal on the gaskets, and Delco electrics wouldn't cure. Keep in mind the Jag owner's manual had a section on removing the head and decarbonizing the valves.

Major issue with English/German/Italian cars of the 60s today is getting parts: both availability and price. May need a set of whitworth wrenches and a Uni-Syn. Closed cars (saloons) are not designed for warm climates.

That said Fiat 124 spyders of the '60s and '70s were great cars, had good ventilation, and were quite reliable as long as you kept sludge out of the front oil slinger (think I mentioned having a weak spot for DOHC). Top you could put up with one hand. Vestigial rear seat. Roll up windows. Five speed gearbox. Had a '68 I bought with 90k miles and sold with 160k. Did very little except a new top, Delco alternator, brake pads, and regular maintenance. Are quite a few still around, I'd avoid the later ones with the lift kit and FI. They were designed with a lot of ventilation. Are quite a few in central Florida.

That said you have had quite a while to think and a lot of ideas thrown at you. Time to sit down and define what you want in term of size and seating capacity. Since my return from SEA I've only had brief periods with just one car and one is usually a multi-door/load carrier/tow car & others are "interesting".

Since you are still discovering, I would suggest finding something inexpensive but reliable and use that to discover what you really want. Do know I get antsy if do not have at least one the top falls off.

[padgett]

Really two of interest:

http://bham.craigsli...5277537484.htmlAlot of work.. But still awesome!

I like T/As however that is a 77-78 nose. Lot of high rust visible - coast car ? Needs a lot of cosmetics. Look over carefully including underneath. Might be a 78 WS-6 car or a frankenstein. No computer. Father might like. Make sure the T-Tops are there. Could be very interesting but would want to see the build sheet.

http://bham.craigsli...5261996325.htmlJust awesome.

One I'd pick. White/red is a nice combo and 4spd/AC/'vert is always going to be salable. Need to go over very carefully. To me the Computer (GM-ALDL) & TPI is a plus and is a lot of information on tuning on the net. Seems to need very little but important to be sure everything works, no collision damage (particularly in front) and no rust. If headlights do not go down that is a dealing point but same as Fiero/Firebird/Reatta (2nd design) & no big.

[Joe in Canada]

In 1979 I had a 1931 Model A as a daily driver. The problem the insurance had was when I changed it over to historic plates they wanted proof I had a modern car which I did. Then they wanted all my policy's or nothing. I choose nothing. 

[Guest]

had a bunch of Jags (and a MGA) before I took the cure. Often would just take off and go 500 or 1,000 miles. Still do. Nothing wrong with english car that a spin on oil filter, silicon seal on the gaskets, and Delco electrics wouldn't cure. Keep in mind the Jag owner's manual had a section on removing the head and decarbonizing the valves.

Major issue with English/German/Italian cars of the 60s today is getting parts: both availability and price. May need a set of whitworth wrenches and a Uni-Syn. Closed cars (saloons) are not designed for warm climates.

That said Fiat 124 spyders of the '60s and '70s were great cars, had good ventilation, and were quite reliable as long as you kept sludge out of the front oil slinger (think I mentioned having a weak spot for DOHC). Top you could put up with one hand. Vestigial rear seat. Roll up windows. Five speed gearbox. Had a '68 I bought with 90k miles and sold with 160k. Did very little except a new top, Delco alternator, brake pads, and regular maintenance. Are quite a few still around, I'd avoid the later ones with the lift kit and FI. They were designed with a lot of ventilation. Are quite a few in central Florida.

That said you have had quite a while to think and a lot of ideas thrown at you. Time to sit down and define what you want in term of size and seating capacity. Since my return from SEA I've only had brief periods with just one car and one is usually a multi-door/load carrier/tow car & others are "interesting".

Since you are still discovering, I would suggest finding something inexpensive but reliable and use that to discover what you really want. Do know I get antsy if do not have at least one the top falls off.

I must start with a old slogan that one of our presidents that I admire that once said to his presidential rival Mr. Mondale in the second presidential debate " THERE YOU GO AGAIN "

The fact is Porsche and especially VW parts of the 50's, 60's, 70,s are no problem to get hold of. May I ask where do you get your misinformation from. I have no problem getting anything for my 64 & 65 VW's.

[Rusty_OToole]

The Buick Skylark would be a good choice. The others, check your insurance first.

 

On looking again at the Skylark I would be leery. Would much rather find a dead stock, original, little old lady type car. One with low miles and not rusted out.

 

But that is the kind of car to look for. An American hardtop with small V8 from the sixties seventies or eighties. Whatever catches your interest.

 

There are some good buys in sedans too, but you probably prefer the hardtop style.

 

Chev Nova and Chevelle, Buick Apollo and Skylark, Olds Omega and Cutlass, Pontiac Ventura and Tempest, Dodge Dart and Coronet, Plymouth Duster and Satellite, Ford Maverick and Torino, Mercury Comet and Cyclone, cars like that.

[Guest Xeon]

Really two of interest:

http://bham.craigsli...5277537484.htmlAlot of work.. But still awesome!

I like T/As however that is a 77-78 nose. Lot of high rust visible - coast car ? Needs a lot of cosmetics. Look over carefully including underneath. Might be a 78 WS-6 car or a frankenstein. No computer. Father might like. Make sure the T-Tops are there. Could be very interesting but would want to see the build sheet.

http://bham.craigsli...5261996325.htmlJust awesome.

One I'd pick. White/red is a nice combo and 4spd/AC/'vert is always going to be salable. Need to go over very carefully. To me the Computer (GM-ALDL) & TPI is a plus and is a lot of information on tuning on the net. Seems to need very little but important to be sure everything works, no collision damage (particularly in front) and no rust. If headlights do not go down that is a dealing point but same as Fiero/Firebird/Reatta (2nd design) & no big.

 

True, that's a lot of rust you can see. It probably just gets worse. And yeah, I was going to say that! I noticed it wasn't a 79' cause I've been looking at smokey and the bandit!

 

If I didn't need to insure it, or have it as a daily driver this would be exactly what I'm looking for.

 

The Buick Skylark would be a good choice. The others, check your insurance first.

 

On looking again at the Skylark I would be leery. Would much rather find a dead stock, original, little old lady type car. One with low miles and not rusted out.

 

But that is the kind of car to look for. An American hardtop with small V8 from the sixties seventies or eighties. Whatever catches your interest.

 

There are some good buys in sedans too, but you probably prefer the hardtop style.

 

Chev Nova and Chevelle, Buick Apollo and Skylark, Olds Omega and Cutlass, Pontiac Ventura and Tempest, Dodge Dart and Coronet, Plymouth Duster and Satellite, Ford Maverick and Torino, Mercury Comet and Cyclone, cars like that.

 

True. I'd actually rather something stock. Although I also want something that I won't be treated like a traitor if I mod some. Better suspension, maybe brakes, new wheels(Depending what's on it, I love some of the old wheels!) and maybe even some small performance upgrades like CAI/Headers/Exhaust.

 

I don't mind sedans at all, I just would rather a 2 door although that isn't even a must if it;s a really nice car.

 

My neighbor(Owns a body shop) is working on a Chevelle SS right now.. Almost rust-less, new floor pans and trunk. Low mile original engine.. Looks amazing.. I really do like the Chevelles. Although really, I'd love to own any of those you listed!

Edited October 21, 2015 by Xeon (see edit history)

[John348]

The Skylark looks like a nice car, but the part that makes me wonder is "rusty floors, otherwise solid" From what have seen it does not really work that way. But it is worth a closer look. Higher end cars when new usually were maintained by the owners and were adult owned, seldom hit the "beater" stage. I remember an ad campaign that Volvo used about 15-20 years ago touting that 90% were still on the road after 15 years, then again the average owner was not running them into the ground. 

 

If you are looking for performance mods I saw this, a guy in the Vega Club has this for sale. I know in a few earlier posts there was a lot of Vega bashing, even though I own two H body cars it is justified, original ones are few and far between. This has the V-8 conversion done which was real popular in the 70's, All of the hard work is done and he is asking about half of what it would cost to build. Cars are out there, just look

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301765329003?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I am tempted it reminds of the one I had when I was young

 

Think twice about headers, too many cons and not enough pros. There is time for that though, finding the right car is the first thing. One thing to note about some of the mid 70's cars and newer, the plastic interior pieces are next to impossible to find used. The UV light and heat turns that stuff to dust! 

Glad to hear snow and ice is not an issue in your daily drive, just a few winters of snow and salt can make an old car really old!

Edited October 21, 2015 by John348 (see edit history)

[Guest Xeon]

The Skylark looks like a nice car, but the part that makes me wonder is "rusty floors, otherwise solid" From what have seen it does not really work that way. But it is worth a closer look. Higher end cars when new usually were maintained by the owners and were adult owned, seldom hit the "beater" stage. I remember an ad campaign that Volvo used about 15-20 years ago touting that 90% were still on the road after 15 years, then again the average owner was not running them into the ground. 

 

If you are looking for performance mods I saw this, a guy in the Vega Club has this for sale. I know in a few earlier posts there was a lot of Vega bashing, even though I own two H body cars it is justified, original ones are few and far between. This has the V-8 conversion done which was real popular in the 70's, All of the hard work is done and he is asking about half of what it would cost to build. Cars are out there, just look

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301765329003?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

I am tempted it reminds of the one I had when I was young

 

Think twice about headers, too many cons and not enough pros. There is time for that though, finding the right car is the first thing. One thing to note about some of the mid 70's cars and newer, the plastic interior pieces are next to impossible to find used. The UV light and heat turns that stuff to dust! 

Glad to hear snow and ice is not an issue in your daily drive, just a few winters of snow and salt can make an old car really old!

 

You know, I never even thought about headers having cons.. I actually thought there really weren't barely any.

 

This is true. I am really excited even though I have probably a year before I actually go out shopping!

[John348]

Headers cons that I have had the pleasure with;

burnt ignition wires, hot engine compartment, way too hot inside the cabin of the car, leaks, more leaks, rot out, a bear to install on some cars, loud, on a stock set-up horsepower gain is negligible at best with only the use of headers, they are just part of the picture you will need to increase the cam, carb and heads for them to really notice any gain.   

[Guest Xeon]

Headers cons that I have had the pleasure with;

burnt ignition wires, hot engine compartment, way too hot inside the cabin of the car, leaks, more leaks, rot out, a bear to install on some cars, loud, on a stock set-up horsepower gain is negligible at best with only the use of headers, they are just part of the picture you will need to increase the cam, carb and heads for them to really notice any gain.   

 

 

Oh my. I know it's to soon, but are there pros/cons on just anew high performance cam? I'm pretty sure a CAI has no cons, just doesn't help a ton either.

[John348]

It's all about the engine breathing, the more air it takes in, the more fuel it will need, the more fuel takes in the more it needs to exhaust, everything has to work hand and hand. 

 

My advise is to get the car, make it solid, make it safe and then begin your bucket list! Always good in this hobby to have a goal

[Guest Xeon]

It's all about the engine breathing, the more air it takes in, the more fuel it will need, the more fuel takes in the more it needs to exhaust, everything has to work hand and hand. 

 

My advise is to get the car, make it solid, make it safe and then begin your bucket list! Always good in this hobby to have a goal

 

Too true! Thanks for the info!

[padgett]

One key point to any good car is balance. Nice things about those A, G, F, and X bodies (GM) is that they can be made into anything you want but the major drivetrain components need to be matched to each other. For instance do not put a stock Saginaw 4-speed behind a built 455.

 

Headers have pros and cons but must be matched to both the engine and the drivetrain (and clear the power steering). Before considering an exhaust know what an X or H pipe does. Remember: the factory usually had a reason for what they did even though it might be something you do not care about.

 

For instance that Skylark. Where you live I would not bother with anything that has rust. Period. There is always more than you can see and it will bite you.

 

But say you find a nice 70-72 Skylark/Cutlass/Lemans with 350/350 & air. Nice cars  No reason you can't add 17x8 wheels and tires, '70 W30 convertible sway bars, koni shocks, 78 TransAm fast ratio power steering, poly or delrin bushings, and build a 455/Muncie/12 bolt Posi in the garage for a later swap.

 

If that is your goal, I would not start with a 6, too many things need to be fabricated to add a V8 & some got smaller capacity transmissions and axles. For a beater it does not matter. For something you plan to build it does.

 

Key here is to find a solid car that fits what you want it to be. Or add all of the above (are bolt ins) but keep the 350. A lot of great cars have started out that way

[Rusty_OToole]

Every engineering design is a compromise. The stock setup is carefully worked out and tested for all around performance, economy, long life, cost of manufacture etc.

 

It is hard to get any improvement by changing just one thing. Headers, OR a bigger carb, OR a cam,  won't do anything by themselves but the right combo of cam, carburetor, and headers can wake up a smog era V8.

 

In the old days it used to be common to overhaul a smog motor, with new rings, valve job, bearings, timing chain and add an RV cam, Rochester carb on an Edelbrock manifold and a set of headers and pick up 25 or 30 HP while increasing gas mileage by 2 or 3 MPG.

 

For one thing a lot of cars had the cam retarded for smog reasons and the carb set up very lean. They passed smog tests but economy, power, driveability and engine life were all reduced. If you did not have to worry about a smog test there were things you could do.

[Guest]

Every engineering design is a compromise. The stock setup is carefully worked out and tested for all around performance, economy, long life, cost of manufacture etc.

 

It is hard to get any improvement by changing just one thing. Headers, OR a bigger carb, OR a cam,  won't do anything by themselves but the right combo of cam, carburetor, and headers can wake up a smog era V8.

 

In the old days it used to be common to overhaul a smog motor, with new rings, valve job, bearings, timing chain and add an RV cam, Rochester carb on an Edelbrock manifold and a set of headers and pick up 25 or 30 HP while increasing gas mileage by 2 or 3 MPG.

 

For one thing a lot of cars had the cam retarded for smog reasons and the carb set up very lean. They passed smog tests but economy, power, driveability and engine life were all reduced. If you did not have to worry about a smog test there were things you could do.

Where I live we do not have smog testing, however it is still illegal ( Federal and most states) to tamper or remove from a vehicle that came from the factory with EXHAUST Controls, or remove devises. that includes camshafts, manifolds, air cleaners, carburetors, distributors or the entire exhaust system especially catalytic converter equipped cars. Unless a replacement part has a carb. cert. #.

Most cars started using exhaust controls in 1966 for Ca. and 1967 for the rest of the country. Of course all of that matters to the person showing a car in a AACA event and is a participant in the General Forum here because those cars have to have what came from the factory anyway to be on the show field. Besides that is what we all stand for here at AACA. Factory original or stock is stock.

Edited October 23, 2015 by helfen (see edit history)

[Guest LuxDriver]

Formerly I always liked and driven 1977/79 standard bodied Cads.. Devilles, Fleetwoods.. Very reliable and last forever. I even managed to get through some bad snows in them. Of course the cheap dash, door panels, brittle bumper extensions and rot are issues..must be noted too. A great time- tested car, that feels like a Caddy should when properly cared for.

Recently I've turned my attention to 1999-08 Mercury Grand Marquis .. Now don't get all your "Bridgette Jones's" in a bunch.. They are very reliable, nice riding, often plentiful, not expensive to drive, comfy ,safe, and a tremendous trunk for hauling parts, etc.. The 4.6 can take hundreds of thousands of miles ..just keep changing the oil. Cabs in NYC had the Ford versions as did /do many police.. Don't dismiss them for being an old farts car.. They know what they need in a car..safe,dependable, decent on gas, n reasonable!

In fact I just located a nice Palm Beach Edition from a 97 yr old man.. He saved everything from when he bought it new. Oddly while the numbers match the original window sticker, the write up is incorrect. It's written as a regular GS no mention of Palm Beach trim option.. Very odd. I'm trying to find the cost of that option, so if anyone knows or can find out for me. It's a 1999..?

I also drove the 2003+ Lincoln Town Car. Very comfy and solid ride.. Impressive and battleship- like, reminding me of a good 1964 Caddy, these cars live many, many miles and serve you in great comfort and safety.. And you instantly feel," hell a drive to Florida wouldn't be an endurance test".. Of course Id hate to park it in NYC! I'm Łooking for a nice lower mileage driver in fact. They are now on my radar.

[padgett]

Cutlass seems nice but 71 is before the corporate motor thing so why does it have a SBC with an aftermarket carb & electronic ignition ? I see power brakes but not power steering. Might be a really good car and has the hard part for the AC. Bears checking out by someone knowlegable.

[Guest Xeon]

Alright, not exactly what I was looking for, but it's a beauty!

 

https://bham.craigslist.org/cto/5283926280.html

 

 

And if that's a legitimate price, I could open up the "piggy" bank and almost go buy it!

[Guest]

It looks nice!!

 

https://huntsville.craigslist.org/cto/5280244125.html

This is a modified car here. Something we don't like to talk about here at AACA General forum. Remember AACA stands for stock unmodified cars. That being said the car you listed in the link is now a Oldsmobile that has turned into a Chevy Chevelle. In the Oldsmobile collector world not worth anything. Kind of like showing a crucifix to a vampire....get it! Remember what I said about the engine as being heart and soul of the make of the vehicle.

Edited October 25, 2015 by helfen (see edit history)

[padgett]

Been a long history of such though. Remember the "Canadian" Firebird that ran in the SCCA Trans/Am (69 ?) with a 302 ?

Do know over in the other forum here no-one thinks anything but "neat" at someone who drops an L67 and Getrag where a LN3 and 440T4 once sat.

Personally wouldn't turn down a Studillac either. That isn't even the same corporation. And then there is the original GTO - Garbage Truck Option, the Ardun head.

ps my Sunbird had a SBC in it - came from the factory that way. Guess we have always had resto-mods just used to be called hot rods.

[Guest Xeon]

I want a late 60's firebird again..

 

https://bham.craigslist.org/cto/5286157989.html

Edited October 26, 2015 by Xeon (see edit history)

[ScarredKnightfan]

Holy cow ... a lot of different discussions & opinions since I last visited this thread 10/15/2015.

 

Maybe I'm wrong, Xeon, but you seem to be looking at quite a variety of vehicles, at least judging from what ads I've seen you've posted links for here ... & that may be hindering a decision?  It's tough to compare apples to oranges, especially when you are receiving all sorts of suggestions & opinions about what is actually good performance, great reliability, practicality & affordability.  In the end, it's what YOU think is best b/c you'll be driving it; not any of us.

 

*shrugs*

 

 

Cort www.oldcarsstronghearts.com

pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic (awaiting new owner)

"This is not where you belong" __ Restless Heart __ 'Why Does It Have To Be (Wrong or Right)?'

[padgett]

errr thought double hump heads were 2.02" intake SBC heads & do not see the insignia on front bumper (may be there but can't see). I'd run.

[Guest Xeon]

errr thought double hump heads were 2.02" intake SBC heads & do not see the insignia on front bumper (may be there but can't see). I'd run.

 

This is what scares me. People lie and nothing is what it seems.

[padgett]

Well when you find something there are plenty of people here who can pick it apart but if you fixate on Firebirds there are other forums that are more specific.

 

OTOH an "antique car" in Florida is anything made before 1985 and 1990 is the usual cutoff for classic car insurance. I just like the standard Florida plate better. So a 77-78 Trans-Am is an "antique".

 

BTW "Since 1935, AACA has had one goal: The preservation and enjoyment of automotive history of all types." that seems to go beyond "stock" & I appreciate "period correct" & even "restomod". Do find "patina" amusing. Personally I put a HFP under "safety" & is in all of my cars. GPS & modern sound just because I like them. Also living in Florida where it does rain a bit, all are on modern radials. Finally, I like Sylvania Silverstars and FIAMM air horns.

 

I am a AACA member.

[Guest Xeon]

You know , something like this tempts me..

http://huntsville.craigslist.org/cto/5287273597.html

Classy, 300k miles isn't considered really high, good mileage, easy easy to insure... My parents don't have to worry about me speeding....

I can't wait until I go looking!!!!

[Guest]

You know , something like this tempts me..

http://huntsville.craigslist.org/cto/5287273597.html

Classy, 300k miles isn't considered really high, good mileage, easy easy to insure... My parents don't have to worry about me speeding....

I can't wait until I go looking!!!!

Your interest ranges are quite baffling and you lead people off in different directions with your scattered interest. This thread is a waste of time. 

[Guest Xeon]

Your interest ranges are quite baffling and you lead people off in different directions with your scattered interest. This thread is a waste of time. 

 

As I said, I'm open to anything, I'm not buying anything off of CL. I'm going out looking for a car over the summer and I want some ideas. Alright, so I'm sorry about being confusing, but almost every post(Except the last few of yours) have been immensely helpful. I literally know that much more about "old" cars.

 

I get that it's a waste of time for you, so stop posting here. I know I wouldn't care.

 

 

I'm also sorry if I sound snotty to anyone else. This forum really is one of the best I've been on for any subject.

[cahartley]

^  I'm glad you're open minded and not a color blind jerk.....you know the kind......if it isn't a "pick a brand" it's JUNK kind of guy....... 

[jeff_a]

Hey Xeon,

 

Look at an oak tree that still has all its leaves and remember you have more choices than that for a somewhat old, somewhat collectible car you can drive a bit when the time is right to buy. May be hard to pick just one, but you don't have an indoor arena to park them in & a shoebox full of hundreds! I looked in a second-rate source of cars FS yesterday and saw these to give you some ideas(yeah, I know I'm the one who suggested a Lamborghini truck, but a Lamborghini is what I wanted when I was your age):

 

          year  model   state  cost   details   motor

 

 

    ......1932 Chevrolet 2 Dr/MN/$6,000/runs & drives, original, very solid body, repainted 15 yrs ago/6-cyl  <<This wasn't really going to be your only car, was it? >>

• 1962 Buick Special CONV/PA/$4,500/runs, drives, needs rest., 4-bbl, AT, bucket seats/215 Alum V8
• 1963 Studebaker Lark Daytona 2 Dr HDTP/IA/$8,250/new white paint, interior, tires, batt., and dual exhaust/V8
• 1966 Ford Pickup/PA/$4,500/longbed, same owner 25 yrs, 3-spd man. on column/410 Police Interceptor V8
• 1971 AMC Gremlin/WA/$2,800/driveable, restorable, needs int & paint, titled, 3-spd; new brakes, tires, alt, gas tank, tuneup/6-cyl
• 1973 Mercury Cougar CONV/$8,500/OK/77K miles, AT, parked 25 years since running, "barnfind"/351 V8
• 1974 MGB CONV/MO/$2,800/runs good, good paint & top, fair tires, 4-spd/4-cyl
• 1978 Chevrolet Impala 4 Dr/WI/$3,500/28K miles, base model, no pow. acc. ex. steering & brakes, mostly original/

 

source: Classic Autos & Parts, Vol.20, No. 10, OCT, 2015, www.classicautosandparts.com

IMO, better sources would be Hemmings Motor News and Autabuy (online or magazine) because of many more listings.

Edited October 28, 2015 by jeff_a (see edit history)

[Guest Xeon]

Hey Xeon,

 

Look at an oak tree that still has all its leaves and remember you have more choices than that for a somewhat old, somewhat collectible car you can drive a bit when the time is right to buy. May be hard to pick just one, but you don't have an indoor arena to park them in & a shoebox full of hundreds! I looked in a second-rate source of cars FS yesterday and saw these to give you some ideas(yeah, I know I'm the one who suggested a Lamborghini truck, but a Lamborghini is what I wanted when I was your age):

 

          year  model   state  cost   details   motor

 

 

    ......1932 Chevrolet 2 Dr/MN/$6,000/runs & drives, original, very solid body, repainted 15 yrs ago/6-cyl  <<This wasn't really going to be your only car, was it? >>

• 1962 Buick Special CONV/PA/$4,500/runs, drives, needs rest., 4-bbl, AT, bucket seats/215 Alum V8
• 1963 Studebaker Lark Daytona 2 Dr HDTP/IA/$8,250/new white paint, interior, tires, batt., and dual exhaust/V8
• 1966 Ford Pickup/PA/$4,500/longbed, same owner 25 yrs, 3-spd man. on column/410 Police Interceptor V8
• 1971 AMC Gremlin/WA/$2,800/driveable, restorable, needs int & paint, titled, 3-spd; new brakes, tires, alt, gas tank, tuneup/6-cyl
• 1973 Mercury Cougar CONV/$8,500/OK/77K miles, AT, parked 25 years since running, "barnfind"/351 V8
• 1974 MGB CONV/MO/$2,800/runs good, good paint & top, fair tires, 4-spd/4-cyl
• 1978 Chevrolet Impala 4 Dr/WI/$3,500/28K miles, base model, no pow. acc. ex. steering & brakes, mostly original/

 

source: Classic Autos & Parts, Vol.20, No. 10, OCT, 2015, www.classicautosandparts.com

IMO, better sources would be Hemmings Motor News and Autabuy (online or magazine) because of many more listings.

There are almost too many.. I mean there are tons of them in what I hope to be my budget..

Just from these pictures and descriptions, does anyone see anything wrong with either of these?

http://huntsville.craigslist.org/cto/5285695441.html

http://huntsville.craigslist.org/cto/5256900313.html

[John348]

There are almost too many.. I mean there are tons of them in what I hope to be my budget..

Just from these pictures and descriptions, does anyone see anything wrong with either of these?

http://huntsville.craigslist.org/cto/5285695441.html

http://huntsville.craigslist.org/cto/5256900313.html

 

The Cutlass was and is nice looking car, the Nova seems more like an organ donor for another project, I thought they were ugly in 1977, still just as ugly now 

[Guest Xeon]

The Cutlass was and is nice looking car, the Nova seems more like an organ donor for another project, I thought they were ugly in 1977, still just as ugly now

I do agree that the nova looks like it may not be whole, but I wouldn't call it ugly..

[John348]

I do agree that the nova looks like it may not be whole, but I wouldn't call it ugly..

 

Hey that's just my opinion, did not mean to knock your taste in cars. I guess somebody liked them when new because they did sell a ton of them.Car salesman's line is "there is an a@@ for every seat" Putting opinions aside on that, the main problem I had found with with any of those mid to late 70's GM cars is that the interior is loaded with plastic parts that turn to "dust" with the slightest UV light exposure, finding any parts used that are good are slim to none, and forget finding NOS. If it does not fit a Camaro/Firebird or a Corvette nobody will go through the cost reproduce them. So unless the window garnishes are perfect stay clear, whatever parts are not made of crumbling plastic tend to rot. I have three cars from that plastic era and lived it

Edited October 28, 2015 by John348 (see edit history)

[Guest Xeon]

Hey that's just my opinion, did not mean to knock your taste in cars. I guess somebody liked them when new because they did sell a ton of them.Car salesman's line is "there is an a@@ for every seat" Putting opinions aside on that, the main problem I had found with with any of those mid to late 70's GM cars is that the interior is loaded with plastic parts that turn to "dust" with the slightest UV light exposure, finding any parts used that are good are slim to none, and forget finding NOS. If it does not fit a Camaro/Firebird or a Corvette nobody will go through the cost reproduce them. So unless the window garnishes are perfect stay clear, whatever parts are not made of crumbling plastic tend to rot. I have three cars from that plastic era and lived it

 

Oh, I didn't mean it like that. I just like them cause they seem like a nice little car.

 

I get that completely. Someone I know has a 1983 Nissan/Datsun 720 pickup and everything plastic looks like a dog chewed on it for a few hours. Inside door handles, everything related to the seatbelts except the belts etc etc.