ralphnof49 Posted October 10, 2015 Share Posted October 10, 2015 The switch needs two 6 volt supplies and the wiring diagrams show a three pole circuit breaker that both are connected to. My 1947 has no power to one of the wires and I can only find one 2 pole circuit breaker. Am I missing the three pole breaker? The two pole one is only attached to wires. Is the three pole breaker located in a specific place under the dash?Thanks for help on this annoying problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larry butcher Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 Ralphnof49, This will be a long answer, you have 2 questions. There are 2- 6 volt feeds to the light switch. I checked my '47-'48Lincoln headlight schematic with a large magnifying glass and came to this conclusion--- The circuit breaker, P/N 16H-11624-A; used from 1941 to 1948; has 3 posts ,one of which is for connections only. This is stamped "B" on the 1st pole, "H" on the 2nd pole and "A" on the 3rd pole. The letters can only be seen when the wires are removed. This is viewed looking right at the breaker under the dash. The 1st post is for connections only. On this post is the battery feed from the ignition switch with a wire going to the "B" post on the voltage regulator. This post is not protected by a pr. of con- tacts. The 2nd post, stamped "H" has 1 wire going to the rt. frt. connection on the light switch as viewed looking down on the top of the switch. This is protected by a pr. of contacts. The 3rd post. stamped "A" (accessories) It has 4 wires, the most im- portant goes to the 2nd lft. connection on the light switch, the next wire goes to the rear brake light switch, the 3rd wire goes to rt. & lft. door lght. switches. The 4th wire goes to the clock power and clock light . All of this protected by a pr. of contacts. Now the remaining light switch wires. The rt. side 2nd and 3rd connections on the switch are bridged together and feed dash lights, rear tail lights,and a spare connector ( unused ?) The 3rd connection on the left side of switch feeds the . frt. parking lights and another wire feeds the light for the ignition key hole.I hope this helps,any questions "E" mail me at Zephyr38 @ Verizon.net or call me at 1-410-756-5310.----Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralphnof49 Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 Thanks Larry. I finally identified the box containing the circuit breaker with help from the people at Narragansett. I suspect the breaker has become faulty and hope to test it today. Your description is very helpful. The breaker was hard to see as the tube for the defroster gets in the way so I removed it for now and can better visualize the breaker. I'll send you an email if I get stuck. ---Ralph Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralphnof49 Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 In testing with a voltmeter, the third post on the breaker has 6 volts and so does the light switch. But when I pull the light switch to the running light position the voltage is no longer there, If I switch the power on the light switch so the red wire is powering the running lights they come on as do the headlights when the red wire is connected to the correct terminal for headlights. So I assume the breaker for the accessory and running lights is faulty. Can a person repair the breaker- I assume not- or is it best to replace it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larry butcher Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 I have the complete breaker board which has the circuit breaker and ignition resistors mounted removed from my car andsitting on my work bench . I ground off the rivets , removed cage. I cleaned the contacts and wire brushed the whole unit. I seeno reason this will not work again. The resistors are available from venders. The cage can be reinstalled using very small nuts,bolts; and lock washers. Be sure and TAG EVERY WIRE! Take photos--- Larry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralphnof49 Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 Thanks Larry, especially for the caution on tagging wires. I found a NOS unit at Narragansett, so I plan to use it. But I will also clean up the old one and see if I can restore it like you describe. I understand from Narragansett that the rating for each side is different; 30 amps for headlights and 15 amps for the other accessory circuits. So some people use new style breakers instead of the original unit, no doubt it would cost less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larry butcher Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 Don,t forget the light switch sends power to a TOGGLE switch which determines if you want to useheadlights or running lights( or fog lights) . If you have this switch, it is located to the left of thesteering column. A rather heavy duty looking switch.--Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralphnof49 Posted October 17, 2015 Author Share Posted October 17, 2015 Thanks, yes I have the switch and have checked it and it is good.--Ralph Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
47clubcoup Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 ON THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH with the pull switch facing you 3 connections on left 2 on right from pull switch back...left side first one is H second one B third one P on right it's Bup front and R in the back......H is for fog light sw........B is hot 15 amps...........P is ignition switch light an parking lights,,,,,,,B is hot 30 amps .........R would be for tail lts / rheostat sw / accy tap according to my diagram ? if that helps any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralphnof49 Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Yes thanks that matches my wiring diagram too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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