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1940 buick


bluenash

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Before rebuilding head:....................After (wet)

 

............dry.........wet

1..........48..........90................................91

2..........31..........44................................70

3..........52..........65...............................101

4..........45..........55................................85

5..........72..........86...............................103

6..........74..........86...............................107

7..........74..........81................................90

8..........65..........67.................................0

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Highly unlikely that a #8 cam lobe went flat while the head was off (thank goodness!), so some inspection is required.  Have you tried watching the movement of the #8 valves while engine is being cranked, and comparing distance traveled to the best cyl (#6)?  Watching while engine is being manually turned would be even better.  It's gotta be something in the head...

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That is a revolting development.  At 0 compression there has to be a huge hole in the piston, no rings or a valve staying open.   Highly unlikely on the hole or completely missing piston rings.    Major work on the head.  This is the area to look. 

right,  since he had compression before, but none after the heads are re installed, something is stuck..

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I did the compression test at 2 AM with a bottle of Wild Turkey. For cylinders 1 - 7,  I was celebrating, especially the cylinders over 100. And 107!! That's good for a nice swig of turkey. But after I checked the last cylinder a few times I drank the rest of the bottle.

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I did the compression test at 2 AM with a bottle of Wild Turkey. For cylinders 1 - 7,  I was celebrating, especially the cylinders over 100. And 107!! That's good for a nice swig of turkey. But after I checked the last cylinder a few times I drank the rest of the bottle.

 

Wonder if #8 received some of that Wild Turkey things would look much different?   J/K.  I suspect something wrong with the head on #8.

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If not the pushrods, there is indeed likely something wrong with the valve job.  There *was* reasonable compression in #8 before removal, so I doubt it's the head itself.

 

Perhaps check #8 compression again in the cold light of day, sans Wild Turkey...  :-)

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If the rocker arm assembly was disassembled and cleaned it is possible at least one of the rocker arms is in wrong. They are not all the same and must be oriented correctly. If not, the pushrod will rub the hole in the head and eventually break - a long shot.

 

Zero compression screams "valve problem",

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With the valve cover off I can see the valves go up and down normally on 8 when I crank.

 

How fragile are the pistons? What is the chance that I accidentally damaged a piston when I was putting the head on? I was being extremely careful to put the head on straight, and not to touch the pistons, because I had set the engine to top dead center so the tops of pistons 1 and 8 were sticking up. Putting the head on is a delicate task, I was trying not to damage or crimp the head gasket, but the damn head is so heavy there is a certain amount of jockeying around that you have to do. I was using a system of rubber cushions to jockey the head into position but I may have cracked #8 piston, they are aluminum and pretty fragile I guess.

 

Note: I was NOT drinking Wild Turkey the day I put the head on. That is a job for sober people only.

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OK here is the deal. When they regrind the seats they remove metal which increases the amount that the valve has to go up to close. If the old rocker arm valve adjustment was already tight, the new position of the valve might be so high that the rocker arm is not allowing the valve to go up all the way and close. I will back off the screw a couple turns on each rocker arm on 8 and see it that is the problem.

 

Duh! You think maybe I'd do a valve adjustment on a rebuilt head!!

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Ok I rough-adjusted the valves using the rocker arm jiggle test. New compression measurements:

 

Before rebuilding head:....................After (wet).........................after the jiggle test (wet)

 

............dry.........wet

1..........48..........90................................91................................112

2..........31..........44................................70................................112

3..........52..........65...............................101...............................102

4..........45..........55................................85..................................97

5..........72..........86...............................103...............................110

6..........74..........86...............................107...............................107

7..........74..........81................................90................................107

8..........65..........67.................................0.................................105

 

I did the jiggle test one valve at a time by cranking the engine and waiting for the valve to be in the middle of its open period, grab the rocker arm, and it should jiggle just a little. If it doesn't jiggle it means it's under pressure and probably not closed all the way. If there is too much jiggle tighten it until it just jiggles.

 

2 intake was way too tight. Had to loosen the screw 180 degrees to get a jiggle. compression jumped from 70 to 112

5 intake took 90 degrees to jiggle, compression went up from 103 to 110

6 exhaust was too loose, tightened it, no change in compression

7 intake only took 45 degrees turn of screwdriver but compression went from 90 to 107

8 intake took 3 turns of 180 degrees to get a jiggle

8 exhaust took 2 turns of 180. Look at cylinder 8 now!!

 

All other valves passed the jiggle test.

Edited by Morgan Wright (see edit history)
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I can't leave well enough alone. I didn't like 1 being 90 and 4 being 85 so I went and adjusted the jiggle on them a little more. Now 1 is 112 and 4 is 97.

 

 

Final results:

 

Before rebuilding head:....................After

 

 

1................90....................................112

2................44....................................112

3................65....................................102

4................55......................................97

5................86....................................110

6................86....................................107

7................81....................................107

8................67....................................105

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Now you need to HOPE the rods and mains stand up to the change in the compression.

 

I haven't read the entire thread, so maybe you have addressed that.

 

I recall in the mid/late 40's when new cars were flying out the door, but some folks just couldn't afford a new one. Many requested just a valve job, only to find a few weeks later the bearings were in trouble. Dad always warned them of the added compression, and what it could do to bearings.

 

I wish you well,

 

Dale in Indy

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Just wait till the engine gets warm enough for the choke to open.  Of course from my view, I'd have opened the choke a little more as soon as it started. 

 

Also wondering if you installed exhaust manifold gasket of some sort.  Kinda looks like an exhaust leak at the front and rear exhaust ports.

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