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Project '55-63 Driver


Mudbone

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Ok, I got the title today. Went to get plates. If ordering anything with a personalized plate they do not give temporary tags. I would have to wait 3-4 weeks. So I just got a one year antique plate for now. I called Ins. Man so I am covered. Went for a quick drive to get some gas. It only took 3.5 gal. Maybe the gauge is not out of whack after all. The rear shocks are not working at all. I felt like I was driving the Titanic in a hurricane! It was idling a little rough. Backed out the mixture screws a little and that helped a lot. I hope to do a video drive on Sunday, weather permitting. Mud

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New parts might help, but most of the problem is those flat top alpha-numeric tires.  I put some on one of mine and at the time it had only 7000 miles.  I could not hold it on the road.  It steered better with the rotten 21 year old tires I took off (7.60-15) and at 25k it still steers well (so well that I forget it has bias ply).  With the weight of the car on the suspension those components don't move that much.  My other model 63 that I drive all over the country has more play than that.

Also that upper pin is where the camber and caster is set and a change in setting will move the wear area.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cok-59600  this is what I have now and as mounted are 2.75 walls and should match the rear ones you have if only 2 are used.  Radials will help, but with increased steering effort with manual steering.

Willie

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New parts might help, but most of the problem is those flat top alpha-numeric tires.  I put some on one of mine and at the time it had only 7000 miles.  I could not hold it on the road.  It steered better with the rotten 21 year old tires I took off (7.60-15) and at 25k it still steers well (so well that I forget it has bias ply).  With the weight of the car on the suspension those components don't move that much.  My other model 63 that I drive all over the country has more play than that.

Also that upper pin is where the camber and caster is set and a change in setting will move the wear area.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cok-59600  this is what I have now and as mounted are 2.75 walls and should match the rear ones you have if only 2 are used.  Radials will help, but with increased steering effort with manual steering.

Willie

Maybe putting some oil in the shocks will help. It was real bad just going up town to get gas. The rear tires were bouncing up and down like rubber balls.

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Hey Mud,

Another thing I noticed was the "flat top" tires. I had some of those the first time I bought wide whites cuz they were cheap. They were ok when new, but they wandered a lot more than good bias ply tires. That was when they were new. I tried them on my wagon as 15-20 year old tires and I couldn't drive around the block. Something else to consider.

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Hey Mud,

Another thing I noticed was the "flat top" tires. I had some of those the first time I bought wide whites cuz they were cheap. They were ok when new, but they wandered a lot more than good bias ply tires. That was when they were new. I tried them on my wagon as 15-20 year old tires and I couldn't drive around the block. Something else to consider.

I have a brand new set in the basement still wrapped in plastic that my father bought me 15 years ago. (They were not cheap) May be I should try those. I got them from Coker.

Edited by Mudbone (see edit history)
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I just realized something real weird.

 

In 1974 I had a 55 Special two door sedan that was a project car. Then I bought a 55 Special four door sedan driver in Denver Co.

 

My 55 Century two door hardtop Project66R car came from Denver Co. and now I have a 55 Century four door hardtop that came from IL.  What????

 

 (You can just see the rear fender above the white and red sedan)

 

(If you look through the driver’s window on the green two door, you can see a blue and white 56 Century four door hardtop where my red and white four door is sitting three years later)

post-94171-0-66568100-1444186893_thumb.j

post-94171-0-12455000-1444186936_thumb.j

Edited by Mudbone (see edit history)
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I found out why the car would change lanes at will. It just needs a few more parts…..

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dr2LnVbwVN0

 

 

Before I would condemn the the steering knuckle parts I would lube them at the nipples.  I also suspect the tires might be contributing to the problem.  The first set of bias I drove on caught every rut in the road sending me wherever it pleased.  The tires were 10 years old.   I purchased new bias ply(Universals) and the car drives wonderfully.  No more white knuckle driving.   

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There is an estate auction this Saturday. A 1955 Buick Century four door hardtop is one of two vehicles to be sold. Is anyone familiar with this car? It is only about an hour from me so I think I will check it out and report back.

 

http://toddwillsauctioneering.com/page1.php

 

attachicon.gif55 buick.jpg

 

attachicon.gif55buick2.jpg

 

As an aside, I think it's wonderful that the manufacturer was so liberal in the 50's so as to try new things.  I am specifically talking about how the 55 Special 4 dr had the low rear fender welts, while the 66R had the open fender welts.  Add to that the differences between the large series and smaller series  and this begins to add up to a lot of investment in tools, dies and ultimately inventory.  And somehow all the cars look similar.

And to think, they somehow managed to make money back then with all this individuality.

 

Also I had an opportunity to laugh at the disingenuous remark in Muds first post on this thread!  "so I think I will check it out and report back."

 

tsk, tsk.  LOL...as he heads out with a pocket full of cash for the down payment! :o  :lol:  :lol:

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As an aside, I think it's wonderful that the manufacturer was so liberal in the 50's so as to try new things.  I am specifically talking about how the 55 Special 4 dr had the low rear fender welts, while the 66R had the open fender welts.  Add to that the differences between the large series and smaller series  and this begins to add up to a lot of investment in tools, dies and ultimately inventory.  And somehow all the cars look similar.

And to think, they somehow managed to make money back then with all this individuality.

 

Also I had an opportunity to laugh at the disingenuous remark in Muds first post on this thread!  "so I think I will check it out and report back."

 

tsk, tsk.  LOL...as he heads out with a pocket full of cash for the down payment! :o  :lol:  :lol:

The reason I took cash and my checkbook is that the guy had a ton of tools. Lathes to sand blasting/painting equipment. Seriously I was just going to look!   :wacko:  

Edited by Mudbone (see edit history)
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Before I would condemn the the steering knuckle parts I would lube them at the nipples.  I also suspect the tires might be contributing to the problem.  The first set of bias I drove on caught every rut in the road sending me wherever it pleased.  The tires were 10 years old.   I purchased new bias ply(Universals) and the car drives wonderfully.  No more white knuckle driving.   

Ha, you guys just don't know me very well. I spent 2 years rebuilding front ends and doing wheel alignment at a Sears Automotive Center in Oakbrook IL (18 Service Bays) We did 5-6 wheel alignments a day plus rebuilds. I Hate LOOSE PARTS!!

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I went for a drive yesterday afternoon. After about 15 minutes of driving around town the temp gauge started climbing up about ¾ to hot. (The outside temp was about 62*) I turned the electric fan on and it came down a little and stayed there. It looks like he had the radiator out as it is freshly painted. I bet the block is full of crud.

post-94171-0-84454400-1444687218_thumb.j

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Radiator x3...never saw a problem with the block on a nailhead.  Check the temperature at the thermostat housing with an infrared temperature gun.  The stock temperature gauge if working is usually lying.  Change the thermostat ...180°...while the radiator is out.

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Make sure to filter the antifreeze if the radiator is clogged.  Panty hose over the return inlet nipple before installing the hose will work.  I still swear by my Tebka inline coolant filter though.  

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I agree with the Tefba recommendation.  Mount it at the top hose, just behind the radiator.  You twist off the top, loosing no fluid, check and clean the screes, and off you go.

 

I also put a stack of life-saver shaped magnets on the little shaft, and these catch even more schmuts.  On an old engine you know there is stuff floating through the system.

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Unfortunately I have not had much time to do anything with the car. I do have an update. Some positive and some negative. It now appears that the front passenger door has been replaced. There are some areas of peeled paint and it looks like a yellow or light brown color. The damaged lower right fender and rocker panel patch kind of tell the story that the car had a fender bender on that side. On a positive note, all the lights are working inside and out. The windshield and rubber appear to be new.

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