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47 Super 56c resto


47 Super C

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Here's what I  was able to make using the hammer form.  Had to do a little handwork after using the form - probably 90% done on the form and the rest by hand and dolly.  It's tough to get sharp edges on the form, so I used some scrap 3/8" steel bar to get that done.  I plan on using an English wheel to smooth out the hammer bumps.  This piece took about two hours to shape.  I figure the other side will go quicker.

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It was nice outside today up here in Maine, so I worked on getting the sedan floor ready for the transplant and did so welding on the two areas that needed to be patched.  I also plug welded the spot weld holes made when the rockers were removed with the air-chisel.  The rotisserie makes life easier.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another nice day in Maine, so I did some more work on the 4 door floor to prepare it for the transplant to the convertible. The picture with the air hammer in it shows what it looks like after removing all of the tar-like sound deadener.  It was pretty tough to get removed - first a heat gun to get most of it off and then scrubbing with Gasoline which did seem to melt it off.  The other pictures show removal of the center brace frame from the convertible to get it out of the way for the floor transplant.  I plan on making a replacement one since its rusted through at the bottom. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Doing a little more.  Making two pairs of gravel guards.  One set for me and one set as a barter deal.  Started on the first one with the stump method and some shrinking using a shrinker-stretcher and also the torch.  Since I have to make 4, I decided to go with the concrete hammer form method.  I started with a plaster cast and used that a means to cast the concrete.  You can see the wood boxes that I made to hold the concrete.  The plaster forms are at the bottom of the box under all the masking tape which is my release agent. The second picture has the concrete - actually high strength grout in it.  I am in the process of building a small English wheel so that I can smooth out the hammer bumps to finish the parts.  I also started to make the floor brace that supports the front of the rear seat.  I still have to weld the two pieces together just like the original.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Built myself a small English wheel with plans I found online.  Total cost about $50 for all materials and a couple hours fab time.  Definitely worth it and not too large to store away.  It makes a huge difference in the time it takes to smooth out hammered parts such as the quarter panel and gravel shields. One picture shows the quarter panel in the wheel as I started with all of the hammer dents and the next one shows it completed.  I also welded up the rear seat floor brace and test fitted it.  A couple of pictures show the rear quarter along with the lower rear wheel well section that will weld together.  I decided to weld in the captured nuts rather than using the tabs which was factory, but just puts more holes into the body for water to get into.  One picture shows the two gravel shield forms that I cast from my rusty originals. I am almost done with the first replacement part, but still need to press in dimples and add mounting hardware before priming and attaching the stainless.  I plan on making several sets of these to have some for barter or sale. I need to finish cutting out the rear floor panel and do the swap.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Been awhile since I last posted and have had limited time to work on the Buick, but here's some pictures showing where I am at with it.  I repaired, cleaned and zink primered the floor braces, fabricated and replaced the inner rocker on the driver's side.  Next I installed the rear floor pan from the sedan.  That was a challenge and required a friend to help shoehorn it in. I pre-drilled some holes so I could weld it to the rear fender wells.  I had to do a lot of prying compressing to get everything where it needed to be. I haven't welded it to the floor braces yet as I am fabricating the inner quarter panels first and then will weld it all up at the back before removing the front floor pan.  Unfortunately, the order of the pictures are not chronological.  Not sure how to do that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

A little busy lately with Mothers day, graduations and some house projects on the side.  I have also been doing some work on the Buick.  I am making two sets of replacement gravel guards - the steel part that attaches the stainless to the fender.  Its been a great learning experience in metal shaping starting with the stump and wooden hammer, English Wheel and some homemade shaping jigs and punches.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Done a bit of work lately.  Finished up two sets of gravel guards one for my convertible and a set for another member's Sedanette.  That led to me making the new front ends of both rear fenders.  Pretty much just used the stump, English wheel and dollies and hammers to do all of the work. The pictures which are not in chronological order (not sure how to easily do that) show various steps of fabrication and test fitting them on the car.

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A little more work.  Pictures of the rear fenders laying on the floor with the front ends all welded up.  Another picture shows the drivers side convertible and sedan rear fenders.  I plan on slicing off the bottom 4 inches or so from the back end of the sedan fender and welding it on to the convertible fender which is rather thin in that area.  The other pictures show the passenger side floor and rear quarter repairs.  My next step is to weld the brace piece back in and that side will be comIMG_0509.JPGIMG_0508.JPGIMG_0513.JPGIMG_0514.JPGIMG_0517.JPGIMG_0511.JPGIMG_0512.JPGlete except for the exterior sheetmetal patch. it would be done right now if I hadn't run out of welding wire !  Looks like a run to Home depot later.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A few more hours on the project...  I welded in the cross braces for the back seat.  I made up the floor brace as the original was so thin.  One pictures shows my door alignment on the Drivers side.  After all of the manipulating I've been doing, I re-hung the doors to ensure a good fit.  I'm trying to get everything done that I can in the next few weeks before I have to set the Buick aside for a year so I can work on the new "old house project" that my wife and I are buying.  It was built in 1820 and has about the same issues as the Buick - the bottom 6 inches are pretty rotten and the systems all need to be replaced/reworked, but it has the style and original features that you can't  get in a new house.

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I'll second that! It looks really nice, and some folks don't go the trouble of checking the door fit, as work progresses, then to discover serious issues much, ie. too much later on.

Good luck on your house project too. My wife and I are enamoured with the "Edwardian" style of farmhouse popular here (Canada) around the the turn of the 20th century, but have never actually decided to buy one.

Keith

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the compliments !  I have done old houses before so know what I'm getting into, but I will be able to hire out for some of the work, but will do the fussy stuff myself.  They are a lot of work but the results are rewarding like these old Buicks !

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2nd to last weekend to be able to work on the car.  My goal is to get at least the back end of the sheet metal all done and primed.  I have almost completed the driver's side as the attached pictures show. I have also finished the all of the metal replacement of the interior in the back.  I made all of the parts by using the old pieces as patterns.  Most of these parts (except the floor pan) I had made earlier and can be seen in previous posts.  Essentially the bottom 6" of all the sheet metal except the floor braces.  I also made the components where the top retracts into and the back seat attaches to.

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Finished up the drivers side welding - not the best quality welds, but solid and the heat shrink hammered out.  All the welds end up underneath faring panels or gravel guards.  Fitted the fender, skirt and gravel guard less the stainless.  I was a little nervous here since I had replaced so much metal in this area, but it all fit together well.  Need to do the same on the passenger side.

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  • 4 weeks later...

A little more work.  Made patch panels and removed/replaced rusted out trunk floor pan.  Also hammerred out and welded up the damage a PO had done to the floor with an air hammer trying, I assume to get to the fuel tank sender unit.  Also made one of the replacement pieces for the front floor braces that fit inside of the inner rocker panel at the very front where it mounts to the frame.

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