Jump to content

Fluttering battery guage help


38Buick 80C

Recommended Posts

Swap out the regulator first and if no change, then the generator.  I noted a swing from charging to discharging.  When discharging the starter relay will find ground through the generator and activate the starter (vacuum start switch on the carb should be the 2nd line defense to prevent this.).  Also if the engine rpm are real low like lugging in 3rd gear, the starter will activate when the gas pedal is pushed.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a thought, how old is the battery and have you had it tested?

 

Also are all of the connections from the gen/regulator/battery/ etc. in good shape. 

 

Just a basic question of things to check before changing parts.

The battery is a couple year old Optima. It stays plugged into a battery tender.

 

but direct answer to all your questions is No, but I guess I will now.

 

After the post above I went for a short 5 min ride around the block, never got up past 35, also never got the gauge to read that is was charging either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brian,

 

There are several things that could cause your symptoms.  First check all connections and battery ground. Also, check the regulator grounding to the firewall, very important.  If good then move on to the regulator.  Open it up and check the conracts for wear and/or burning.  They can be cleaned and resurfaces with a strip of fine wet-dry sand paper.  Just get a strip and fold in half so that you can pull  it through the conracts sanding both at tge same time while pushing them firmly closed against the sandpaper.  If this does not cure the problem the next thing to try is bypassing the regulator.  To do this simply ground the field terminal and the generator will go to full charge.  Watch the ampmeter and if it still jumps or shows discharge you have a bad generator, most likely brushes which can be easily replaced.  This should be a good start.  Let us know and we will help if we can :).

 

Robin

Edited by 37_Roadmaster_C (see edit history)
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A good while back, it was discovered that what O'Reillys was selling for replacement voltage regulators actually had electronic "guts" in them, but they looked correct for the vehicle.  Somebody bought one and looked inside to see what was there and round a circuit board rather than the contact point set-up.  Don't recall the brand, but it was a nice things to find.  Swapping out the cover for the original would complete the "correct" look.  Not sure if that same situation exists today, though.

 

Rather than just "check" connections, especially the battery terminals, I'd recomment "remove, inspect, and touch-up" to ensure that all connections were clean and fresh.  On battery terminals especially, a thin layer of "accumulation" can exist between the inside of the cable end and the battery terminal post and everything will still look "good".

 

NTX5467​
 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brian,

 

All good suggestions so far.  I have a couple of comments to add.

 

1.  when checking your voltage regulator contacts, disconnect the battery first!  if you close the cut-out relay contacts with the battery connected, you will fry something.  Don't ask how I know this!

 

2.  what regulator do you have?  5-terminal (original); 4-terminal (you have to clip and insulate the redundant 6-volt lead to convert from 5-terminal to 4-terminal); or, 3-terminal? (you should consider a momentary switch to ground for the starter circuit, to provide the critical redundant starter solenoid ground path interruption method that the other regulators used to provide.)  This will prevent unwanted starter activations.

 

3.  when I had a similar pulsating charge indicator, it was a short circuit in one of my light circuits.  The pulsation was the thermal circuit breaker cutting in and out to protect the wiring.  You may want to consider a short circuit on one of the branches that the thermal circuit breaker protects. The appearance at the gage was identical.

 

Jeff

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brian,

 

All good suggestions so far.  I have a couple of comments to add.

 

1.  when checking your voltage regulator contacts, disconnect the battery first!  if you close the cut-out relay contacts with the battery connected, you will fry something.  Don't ask how I know this!

 

2.  what regulator do you have?  5-terminal (original); 4-terminal (you have to clip and insulate the redundant 6-volt lead to convert from 5-terminal to 4-terminal); or, 3-terminal? (you should consider a momentary switch to ground for the starter circuit, to provide the critical redundant starter solenoid ground path interruption method that the other regulators used to provide.)  This will prevent unwanted starter activations.

 

3.  when I had a similar pulsating charge indicator, it was a short circuit in one of my light circuits.  The pulsation was the thermal circuit breaker cutting in and out to protect the wiring.  You may want to consider a short circuit on one of the branches that the thermal circuit breaker protects. The appearance at the gage was identical.

 

Jeff

Jeff,

It's a 5 terminal VR. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well tried most all of the above. no luck. BUT talked to Dad and he said just take the cover off with and with the engine running push the armature closed a few times, have someone watching the gauge until it says charge and it will fix itself....and it did.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very interesting.  Would you ask your dad if he knows what the problem was and how forcing the armature pulse causes the repair?  I have a fairly good background in electrical services from automotive type to high voltage distribution and this one has me asking what and how.  Anyway, glad it is fixed and reliably on the road.

 

Robin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very interesting.  Would you ask your dad if he knows what the problem was and how forcing the armature pulse causes the repair?  I have a fairly good background in electrical services from automotive type to high voltage distribution and this one has me asking what and how.  Anyway, glad it is fixed and reliably on the road.

 

Robin

I'm glad it is fixed, but I too don't understand the reasoning behind why that would fix it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...
On 9/12/2015 at 5:23 PM, 38Buick 80C said:

Well tried most all of the above. no luck. BUT talked to Dad and he said just take the cover off with and with the engine running push the armature closed a few times, have someone watching the gauge until it says charge and it will fix itself....and it did.

 

What armature did you close? The one for the cutout?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/7/2015 at 2:28 PM, old-tank said:

Swap out the regulator first and if no change, then the generator.  I noted a swing from charging to discharging.  When discharging the starter relay will find ground through the generator and activate the starter (vacuum start switch on the carb should be the 2nd line defense to prevent this.).  Also if the engine rpm are real low like lugging in 3rd gear, the starter will activate when the gas pedal is pushed.

 

Why would lugging in 3rd gear cause the solenoid to trigger, is it because the vacuum is very low when you do that, and opens the vacuum switch?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...