Guest tb3 Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 my fuel pump just kicked the bucket. I've got the pump put and heading to the store for a new one.Kindve in a hurry so didn't have time to do a search, but can somebody tell me if the loose green connecfor wire in the engine compartment for the fuel pump is a direct line to the fuel pump, or is there any fuses or relays in that circuit?when I was trouble shooting last night, I hooked 12 volts up to it, the pump did not come on, and there was a couple sparks when I was touching the leads to the battery, then nothing. the battery is still fine. I'm wondering if I completely shorted out the pump, or if I blew a fuse or relay.i checked the #7 fuse and its still good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry yarnell Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 The green connector goes directly to the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tb3 Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 thank you harry!I'm now sitting here trying to psych myself up enough to start putting everything back together.I feel very fortunate the car is so clean underneath. made the job pretty much hassle free.with the tank out, I see where it would be very easy to cut a access hole in between the two rear storage compartments and make this job very easy if I have to do this again. but I hate to go cutting on the car. I was cringing bad enough already when I did the cup holder mod, but that one was very well worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 I would need to check earlier years.....but the 1991 manual shows the primer wire going to one side of the FUEL PUMP RELAY "C"The relay is picked or activated by the PCM (engine control module) which means that if the key is ON, the relay is picked and the primer wire is OPEN.To use the primer wire, the key or ignition should be in the OFF position. This could be verified at the fuel tank....check for power at the connector...the grey wire at the fuel tank gives 12V to the fuel pump.Test (1) with the key ON there should be 12V at the gas tankTest (2) with the key OFF there would be no voltage at the gas tank connectorTest (3) put a 12V jumper to the green connector and you should have 12 V on the grey wire at the gas tankIf you fail any of these test ....you could have a open wire, bad connection, or bad relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 On earlier models, if you apply 12 volts to the green test connector (gray wire) it goes directly to the fuel pump. If it is different on '91 models I need to make a note of that on my tutorial. The green connector is explained here with photos and a wiring diagram. Fuel Pump Troubleshooting 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tb3 Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 thanks ronnie! thanks barney!tank is back in and car is running great. I figured the old pump was on the fritz because I noticed it was cranking longer than it should before it would start. figured the check valve was going bad at least, but the pump was making some funny noises there at the end.my reatta is a 88, so I guess it's a direct line to pump then, but I didn't check it since pump and the engine fired right up.one thing that confused me a little bit about year changes is mine has the front upper engine strut mount, and I read here somewhere that the 88s didn't have that. maybe it was a midyear change?dunno, still new and learning about these cars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 I would need to check earlier years.....but the 1991 manual shows the primer wire going to one side of the FUEL PUMP RELAY "C"The relay is picked or activated by the PCM (engine control module) which means that if the key is ON, the relay is picked and the primer wire is OPEN.To use the primer wire, the key or ignition should be in the OFF position. This could be verified at the fuel tank....check for power at the connector...the grey wire at the fuel tank gives 12V to the fuel pump.Test (1) with the key ON there should be 12V at the gas tankTest (2) with the key OFF there would be no voltage at the gas tank connectorTest (3) put a 12V jumper to the green connector and you should have 12 V on the grey wire at the gas tankIf you fail any of these test ....you could have a open wire, bad connection, or bad relay. Thank you for the information about the '91 model. I was not aware of the differences between them and the earlier models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 Looks like the '91 is the only year that the relay come into play..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Flacko9091 Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) Tb3,Did you install a new pulsator downstream of the pump or bypass that with a piece of tubing? I've been reading that the ethanol in the gas has been attacking the rubber pulsator. Edited September 8, 2015 by Flacko9091 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tb3 Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 I pitched the pulsator and installed a piece of fuel injection hose in its place.Never had a issue with a couple fuel pumps I did that to years ago, so I figured I'd do the same with this one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 You mentioned that you could cut a hole in the floor to access the fuel sending unit and pump.I think it would need to be a pretty good size hole so that you could get the assembly out....some of the hard lines are pretty long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tb3 Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 you would just have to remove the tank once so you could cut about a inch out of the three hard lines, as close to the lid as possible. then install high pressure fuel injection hoses and clamps for those lines. that way you could just unclamp the 3 lines, cut the hoses for removal, and lift the whole assembly out. I've done this a couple times on third gen firebirds. But to be honest, removing the fuel tank on this reatta was such a cake-walk compared to removing some other fuel tanks I've removed, that I know that I'm not going to bother with it. at least on the reatta you don't have to remove the exhaust, which was a huge relief. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Flacko9091 Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) And hopefully you don't have to change the fuel pumps multiple times....how many miles are people typically getting out of a fuel pump on a Reatta? I would expect that most Reattas (at least convertibles) are no longer daily drivers, so I would think for most the fuel pump would be replaced once and not again for a long time.But then there is the dreaded issue of ethanol in the fuel ruining our late 80's designed fuel pumps and pulsators. Another good reason to buy a rust free Reatta, so the tank can be dropped easily to replace the pump. Edited September 8, 2015 by Flacko9091 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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