Old weights vs new

[GaryP65]

Any one know....

A - where I can find info for various fluids and their capacity.

B- conversion chart that shows the modern equivalent.

Patient is a 25 sedan.....

[nearchoclatetown]

I see none of the experts have answered you yet. I know of no conversion chart or even if there is one. You should use 30 weight oil for the engine, because of the low pressure and the need for a good film of oil on bearings. The transmission and rear end should get nothing but steam cylinder oil. It is available if you look for it. I think I have 600 and 900 weight and there is not much differences in thickness. 

[JayG]

1500 wt oil at a great price.  http://restorationstuff.com/pdf/RestorationSupplyCompany.pdf

Look on page 23

[GaryP65]

I was starting to take it personal!

When you say 30 weight, do you mean 10W-30, etc...?

[bobs1916]

I was starting to take it personal!

When you say 30 weight, do you mean 10W-30, etc...?

NO  he  means   straight 30 weight Auto  parts   stores  have  this .  Questions  come  up   re  detergent  vs  non   detergent.  I  for  one   use  non detergent  oil  in  my   vehicles. 

[GaryP65]

Gotcha. Thank you. I come from a later era so I don't know thus stuff. Thanks for the clarification.

[RAH]

Gary,

I understand the confusion. The viscosity (weight) of oil has many variables and the 'Old' vs "New' philosophies adds to the confusion factor. It is my understanding that the S.A.E. drop spec. numbers may have changed or modernized in the early 70s. Probably with the introduction of the 'multi-viscosities'. However, there are other mechanical factors. In the early Dodge Brothers transmission design when it is in Hi gear, the countershaft assy. is physically disconnected unlike more modern trannies. So the lube needs to have sufficient viscosity (1500 wt.) to cause motion to that countershaft assy. or downshifting will be nearly impossible. Far too many use modern Model A 600wt. which is today more like old 90wt. Then there are other factors that may influence your choice of oil such as additives to reduce foaming and other additives that may have an adverse effect on bronze bushings that more modern cars no longer use as much. So, welcome to the confusion factor. Generally stick to straight 30wt. viscosities instead of the multi-viscosities. Additionally the thoughts regarding detergents is simply on old engines use non-detergent. After a major rebuild use whatever you wish but stick to your choice and don't mix it up. I hope I have not overcomplicated this response. Good Luck.

Rodger "Dodger"

[RAH]

Gary,

Sorry I missed the second part of your question for a '25 Dodge Brothers. Regarding 'Capacities'. Engine, 30wt. 5-6 quarts indicator above starter/generator between cyl. 1 and 2. Transmission, 5 pints, fill to mark on reverse idler on driver side. Differential, 4 points, fill to lower plug on rear cover. Good Luck.

Rodger "Dodger"

[ArticiferTom]

Roger would that hold true for my 3speed trans and diff . on '31 dodge/ Graham truck w 4cyl Plymouth engine .  1500 wt steam oil ! I have trans drained  and top off and flushed with kero ,as system was water contaminated .

[RAH]

Tom,

The short answer is NO. I believe I explained previously the 1500wt. is used in the EARLY 4 cyl Dodge Brothers (Pre- '26) with a different design where the countershaft is physically disconnected when in high gear. That design necessitated a stiffer viscosity lube to impart motion to that countershaft. It's as simple as that! Later standard S.A.E. designs use whatever lube is indicated in your owners manual.

Rodger "Dodger"

[ArticiferTom]

Thank you, Was a pleasure talking to you about this . At time I did know where trans type changed away from that floating secondary shaft .