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My first venture into the pre-war era - 1929


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Please , George , what forum section was the shifting thread posted on ? Also , might I differ upon the advisability of keeping a synchro trans in gear at a stop light ? We non synchro drivers often make this choice as the lesser of two evils. With a synchro 2nd or 3rd gear available to "cage" the trans gears before dropping to 1st on takeoff , the saving of wear on the throwout bearing makes neutral the proper stationary gear. We were also taught in driving school that if you get tapped from behind while waiting in gear , you might be propelled ahead into the intersection under power. Now with a crashbox , for short duration you are right. Also as you probably know better than I , if you are stropped on an incline with a crashbox and a multiple plate clutch pak , you REALLY better stay in gear. If situations demand , I often "cage" the trans by shifting into reverse before first. Reverse has more life left than first , generally , so it can be somewhat sacrificial. Make sense ? - Carl

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Appreciate all the input...Carl, I definately still owe you a lunch and a lot more.  Thanks.  I will try to make contact with a local member for an in person tutorial on driving this machine.  Shop manual states normal operating temp as 160 - 190.  What temp does your car usually run?  thanks, Mike

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Carl and Mike, here's a link to the thread to which I referred (my post is #12--the last one--rarely do I get a chance to have the last word!)

 

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/262273-proper-way-to-drive-a-80-years-old-car-in-traffic/

 

Carl, please copy your Magum Opus into a Word document and trot it out for the next inquiry!  Your explanation is terrific!  BTW, having suffered the same fate of my best ideas, and best expressions thereof, vanishing into cyberspace, I now draft a long or complex response into a Word document and then paste it into an email or forum response.  I feel your pain!

 

My 1934 & 1936 Pierces have synchromesh 2nd & 3rds, and I frequently double-clutch them to save the synchronizers (the '34 has two clutch plates).  Almost 60 years ago I learned to drive on a 1934 Buick with 2-3 synchro and quickly learned that I could not expect it to shift as quickly, without clashing, as a more modern car.

 

I agree with you completely about radiators.  My Paige was the overheating queen, until I pulled the core plugs and cleaned out the block (repetitive flushing with various chemicals--AKA Better Living Thru Chemistry--did NOT do the job, AND had the radiator tanked (it came back about 5 lbs lighter than when it went in.  Was doing a valve job and also cleaned out the water passages in the block and the head.  CAUTION:  Do NOT let a radiator shop apply more than about 4 psi of air to a honeycomb radiator; they are used to using 30 psi on modern units.

 

Mike, admire (and respect) your Cadillac's limitations as much as its capabilities.  Doing so allows us to respect these cars as the precursors to modern vehicles.  "Motor" as a verb was lost after WWII until BMW brought it back.  Motoring was an adventure in itself when our cars were new, and the journey was as important as the destination.

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Seems to me it is steady and cool at just a split hair above 160. If I pull a long grade it will come up just a bit. But not much. My cooling system is working extremely well. Summer saw some hot days driving , although hot here (I think I was only in 97 degrees) is different from what we will soon see re: 'Vegas. These cars pumped more water and cooled better than the old 2 water pump Cads , and those 2 pumpers were known cool runners ! I have a copy of Maurice Hendry's "Cadillac Standard Of The World The Complete Seventy-Year History" first edition , don't know if subsequent editions have more then 70-year. Do you have it ? Hendry writes of the Nairn Brothers out of New Zealand who started a light trucking business which included a run from Beirut to Damascus to Baghdad. Occasionally they would continue to Tehran. They ran a fleet of '24 Cadillacs , and some Buick. Among the reasons they picked Cadillac , the great cooling which never caused overheat problems. If your shutters start to open around 140 , and then open fully , you will need to tend to the rest of it. If your radiator is usable , but marginal , rebuild it anyway. Don't invite disaster. I recommend getting your Sylphon rebuilt , as Jim Otto is older than your dad. Sylphons have a service life , and yours is closer to the end than the beginning. Oh yeah , listen , you better make some new friends in 'Vegas. You already have me , and by the time we get to 'Vegas , you probably will have downloaded my head to a pretty good degree. Be careful of me. I talk like I write ! Make the most of your time , and let's get together to munch with some of the other guys. Dutch treat. I hope we both make it , and are parked close to one another. The next pics you see of the '27 will be as show and road ready. I expect to get down to it soon. - Carl

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Mike, here's a special capability of your Cadillac that will amaze non-old-car-people:  the ability to pull away from the curb almost completely silently.  This is an old chauffeur's trick:

 

Glide away from the curb in first gear at idle--apply no throttle, just let the clutch engage gently.  At about 3 mph, shift to second, engage the clutch gently, still at idle, and at about 6 mph step gently on the throttle.  By this time you'll be 30 ft or more away from the admiring throngs at the curb.

 

This is the opposite of a Corvette or Shelby Mustang departure, but you're driving a CADILLAC and you'll depart with great dignity...  :-)

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Mike,

In the unlikely event that Carl and I are being too subtle, what we are urging is that you drive this Cadillac as if you were the Captain of Industry who originally owned it: that is, conservatively and with dignity. Your car, like Pierces and Packards of the era, were designed to minimize shifting. No need to use first gear unless you're moving from rest on a significant upgrade. Upshift early. Your car is designed for low rpm performance.

The nouveau riche performance crowd bought Duesenbergs in 1929, not Cadillacs, Pierces, or Packards (except for the few Packard Speedsters ca. 1930).

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Can you stand a bit more advice? :)  Do you have an owners manual for your car?  In those days many of them had instructions on how to drive a car.  The manual for my 27 Dictator gives detailed instructions on the correct way to shift gears.  One important point it makes is to shift up before reaching the maximum speed in each gear and to shift down below the maximum speed.  (Should be obvious, but…..) Top speed in low for my car is 8 mph, and 14 mph in second.  The manual recommends upshifting and downshifting at 4 and 10 mph.  At these speeds the risk of a crunch is considerably less.  As has been pointed out, cars of this vintage were designed to do most of their work in high gear.  Drive it as it was intended to be driven in 1929, and be prepared to get the occasional one-fingered salute!  

 

Terry 

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In addressing my running too hot issue, I used the heat gun and found that the radiator inlet was at 175 and the outlet was 80.  Took off the radiatior cap and even at high idle there did not seem to be any movement of fluid.  I drained all the fluid and removed all the hoses.  I pulled the water pump and found what I think is the drive sproket to be broken.  Its the drive that connects the gear mechanism to the waterpump and on the other side the generator.  The generator side, for comparison looks like this:

post-154079-0-10163500-1448837654_thumb.

post-154079-0-41293500-1448837724_thumb.

 

The water pump side, which, correct me if Im wrong, should look pretty much the same looks like this:

post-154079-0-73615100-1448837785_thumb.

post-154079-0-38024800-1448837827_thumb.

 

Here is what the water pump looks like...appears the teeth of the drive mechanism broke and are lodged in the sproket.

post-154079-0-08610600-1448837904_thumb.

post-154079-0-72299700-1448837936_thumb.

 

While I can send the water pump out for a rebuild, perhaps its just the drive mechanism from the gear that needs to be replaced?  Advice would be greatly appreicated.   Thanks, Mike

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I am a bit confused. Where does the central 4-layer tab in photos one and two engage? It looks like it should be in the centre of photo 3 and 4 (724 and 725) but there is already a broken drive tab in there?

 

In the last two photos, is that a castellated nut? You put a screw driver type tool in the shaft to unscrew it? The bits on the sides, could they be locking tabs?

 

Or am I the wrong way round? the tabs work in the centre of photos 5 and 6 and the impeller should be in 3 and 4?

 

In photo 1 (723) what are the pieces on opposite sides that look like they engage on something?

 

Where is the impeller?

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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I took the water pump apart. The impeller was frozen in one position. I cleaned it up and greased it and freed the impeller. Impeller is now, after a bit of work, rotating effortlessly (hooked it up to my power drill and ran it for a good while with no problem). I think I'll hold off on the water pump rebuild for now and order the spring coupling plates and see if this thing will spring back to life. I'm not sure how easy the spring coupling plates are going to be to install....

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I bought a hydrolic press from harbor freight and pressed the 4 pieces apart to get the broken spring plates out and when the new ones came in I pressed it all back together again. It went from looking like thispost-154079-0-52631800-1449292932_thumb. to this

post-154079-0-79518900-1449292970_thumb.

post-154079-0-27186800-1449293005_thumb.

While I had the fluid drained I also changed out the radiator hoses:

post-154079-0-16814400-1449293063_thumb.

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I sure hope you are good to go now , Mike. Yeah , those guys at Classicandexotic are really good. Fast , highest quality. By the way , you do very good fearless work. Must seem simple , considering and compared with your day job ! Now , take it easy out there in the scenic Southwest. Please let us know your driving impressions ! - Carl

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  • 3 weeks later...
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I was driving down the road in the 29 caddy and this guy flagged me down. Said he had been looking for me. Apparently saw the car days earlier. He was helping put one of the biggest fund raising events for the arts in Phoenix together. Theme this year is roaring 20s. Asked if they could put the car in the main ballroom. Of course that sounded great to me. They gave me two free tickets to the event. It happened to fall on my 11th wedding anniversary so it was great timing. Four course meal. Live band. Alice Cooper in attendance. Wearing a tux for the first time in a long time. We had a great time and so did the Caddy...post-154079-0-22009900-1457399381_thumb.post-154079-0-58312800-1457399393_thumb. I knew the car would take me places but I didn't know it would get me free admission to events like this. Love this car!

Edited by BillhymerMD (see edit history)
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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest pehernan

  I used L& R Electronic in Elizabeth, NJ. 9083519384 They rebuild my starter and generator,  both came back awesome. They really did an  amazing job. Very quick, professional and even were kind enough to take pictures of the whole process. The owner started the business like 30 years ago and have a really good reputation around here.

You can see the pictures of my starter in my main project:

our 1936 Plymouth.

Edited by pehernan (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi, nice car. Glad you are enjoying it. Starters are almost indestructible on those cars, I would look into the starter yourself before sending it out. Also, do NOT run an electric fuel pump on that car. The carb just can't handle it and a fire is a very probable result. Properly sorted out, they are great driver at or below 45 mph, and faster and they can be a handful. I am pretty sure I have an extra starter in the barn somewhere if you get jammed up. Ed.

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Thank you all for the advice on starter rebuild shops.  Ended up having it rebuilt by a great shop here in Phoenix...total price $144.00.  Probably the cheapest thing Ill ever get rebuilt on the car and boy did it make a difference.  Bolted it back on today and it fired right up with a vigor that I've never heard from the car before.  Was able to take my Dad for a spin before he heads home tomorrow.  Mike

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I have just spent over an hour composing relevant commentary. It put me late. IT GOT DELETED ! I write well when I spend time proofing and editing my work . I have a policy of not re writing these things. Some things I wrote NEED to be said and HEARED , but I spend inordinate time thumb tapping and focusing on this infernal device. My life was saved by a very talented neurosurgeon. He expressed his frustration at having to waste so much time with insurance company paperwork. He retired early to go run dogs in Alaska. I AM FURIOUS AND I GOTTA GO. Enraged , Carl

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I have just spent over an hour composing relevant commentary. It put me late. IT GOT DELETED !

 

It has done that to me a few times too. I now compose longer entries in Notepad++ (free open source text etc. editor) and copy across when ready. Saves a lot of frowning. It seems there are key stroke combinations only known to the programmers that cause unexpected changes!

 

Nice photos. I like the garage. Pity about the yellow "modern" being there!

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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Thank you , guys for your condolences. Spinyhill , I am sure I am but one among many to appreciate your unsurpassed erudition. I will always remember your astonishing revelation of the potential danger from U.V. radiation lurking only slightly offband from the visual. Your welcome humor re: the yellow "modern" got quite a chuckle from me ! That garage , by the way , is the 3rd floor parking at the host venue , the Suncoast. Let me lick my wounds , and submit a few points later , minus the surplus florid prolix I seem to have a talent for. I am feeling much better now. Mike , I opened with : "What great news ! Dad's opportunity to go for a cruise more than compensates for your obligations and tribulations causing you to be sorely missed at the G.N."

 

All right , I had to postpone a '27 Cadillac drive for a couple hours , but nevermind. The lower sun angle will lessen the degradation from the U.V. exposure we old (and new) car owners would be well advised to minimize. T.B.C.  - Carl

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