Retired w/Reatta

starts, then stalls

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I was just helped in finding a fix for my BCM and now I'm addressing another problem: the car, 1990 coupe, starts right up, runs for a couple of seconds or minutes, then stalls.

The fact that it starts right up tells me it's probably not a spark problem.  

The next culprit would be the fuel delivery system, then maybe the security system.

Where's a good place to start?

Thanks,

S.

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the first place to start, for me - would be to make sure you can hear the fuel pump upon turning the key to the on position. if ok, then check the fuel pump pressure:  http://reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/67-engine-a-drivetrain/fuel-system/288-fuel-pressure-testing

 

if the pressure is ok - 40 to 45 psi, let all know for advice to go onto other problems that it may be.

 

a fuel pressure tester can be found here: http://thereattastore.com/diagnostic-tools/

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I would bet on the fuel pressure regulator. Kerry is right about first checking for fuel pump operation and correct pressure first. You can jump 12 volts directly to the pump to verify operation via the green wire under the hood.

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I hooked up my DVM to the green wire on the driver's side of the engine and got 12.42 volts.

With my new fuel pressure tester I got 43 psi.

I am now waiting for the fuel pressure regulator to arrive; should be here Monday or Tuesday.

The bottom nut on the FPR looks like a bear to get to, any advice (besides not cursing out loud?).

Thanks,

S.

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Your fuel pressure is spot on if that is with the key on or hotwiring the pump. If there is no fuel present in the vacuum hose connected to it, replacing it will not change anything. Getting to that bottom nut is a real bear unless you at least partially remove the fuel rail. Frankly, unless I read your fuel pressure test wrong, save the new regulator for another time.

Edited by 2seater (see edit history)

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The fuel pressure was tested with the key on (with help from not-a-mechanic Karen).

I put everything back together as I was getting ready to replace the fuel pressure regulator.

I started it up and it stalled right out the first couple of times.

Then it ran very rough for a couple of minutes, before stalling.

When I first went to check for codes i got an "error" display on the dash.

I tried again and got b120c (a Riviera code according to the FSM; b552h (probably from disconnecting and connecting the battery); and e026h (quad driver circuit).

The car runs for a couple of minutes now, very rough, tailpipe gases suggest rich mixture.

Also the "lights on" illuminates on the dash, the parking lights are on front and rear, and will not turn off via the switch.

Getting closer but still confused.

Thanks,

S.

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Try disconnecting the MAF sensor before starting the engine. Did you leave the fuel pressure gauge in place to verify the pump continues to run when the engine is running? Fuel pressure should drop by several psi in response to engine vacuum.

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I just disconnected the MAF sensor; car started right up, ran smooth for a few seconds, then stalled.  Car set E034C code.

I noticed on page 8D-45 of the FSM is a flow chart for troubleshooting the MAF circuit.  I do have extra MAF sensors.

I did not leave the fuel pressure gauge in place while running the engine.  I will try to do that soon.

 

"error" now shows in odometer space.  I checked BCM overrides and found B506, which I had saved at 144; and B507, saved at 228, now read 130 and 0 respectively.  I went and changed them back to specs and they immediately went back to 130 and 0.

 

I'll clear all the codes and disconnect the battery to see what that does.

 

Thanks,

S.

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Make sure that when you are finished setting the option content numbers that you press and hold the HEATER and DEFROST buttons on the ECC for approx. 3 seconds. This will override the existing numbers stored in the BCM.

Edited by Mr. Anderson (see edit history)

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My security lite is on and the starter does not operate so I ran a wire from the starter solenoid to the battery plus terminal to use  briefly and the engine will start and run about 10 seconds and stop. Apparently the ignition switch does not read the key resistor ,at this time I have not repaired it.

Al    

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It sounds like either his new values didn't save or the EEPROM has other problems preventing the data from being retained. The fact the odometer is now reading improperly leads me to think it is a bad EEPROM or bad BCM. That it held the values (it did work) for a day or two and is now screwed up again has me thinking something else is wrong with the module or the chip.

KDirk

Edited by KDirk (see edit history)

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Al, I don't think that's my problem, but I will keep it in mind.

It does seem like an EEPROM or a BCM problem.  I can't believe I'm beginning to recognize that now.

Tomorrow I will replace it with a used/tested unit I recently bought.

Thanks,

S.

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My security lite is on and the starter does not operate so I ran a wire from the starter solenoid to the battery plus terminal to use  briefly and the engine will start and run about 10 seconds and stop. Apparently the ignition switch does not read the key resistor ,at this time I have not repaired it.

Al    

 

It runs for a few seconds because the fuel pump runs for a short period each time the key is turned to the run position.  You are overriding the starter lockout by just jumping to the solenoid but the fuel pump is still locked out by the security system.

 

You should start a new thread about your problem to avoid confusion with the original posters problem. It would be helpful to know the model of your Reatta.

 

EDIT: I might be wrong about the theft deterrent system on the Reatta keeping the fuel pump from running. I've been working on a similar problem with my '99 Blazer and that is how it works but that might not be the case with the Reattas.

Edited by Ronnie (see edit history)

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Make sure that when you are finished setting the option content numbers that you press and hold the HEATER and DEFROST buttons on the ECC for approx. 3 seconds. This will override the existing numbers stored in the BCM.

 

I have been doing that.  I notice the number flashes once when holding down the buttons.

Thanks,

S.

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You're doing it right then. If it isn't holding the new values (or overwriting them) after saving then it almost has to be a bad BCM and/or bad EEPROM. The EEPROM is a standard 28C16 and can be bought new (blank) and programmed but it would be difficult to do without a good existing chip to pull the vehicle specific data from. If you really get into a jam and determine the chip (not BCM) is bad, PM me and I'll see if I can program a working chip for you. As of right now, do you get an odometer readout? If that is corrupted you have bigger problems. As well, can you display the VIN in diagnostics? It is also stored in this chip and if it is bogus, no telling what it will show there. Actually, scratch that, yours is a 90 so no way to show the VIN without a scan tool.

KDirk

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The odometer readout shows ERROR.

I pulled out my BCM and replaced it with the used/tested one I have, with its own proms, and all functions tested normal; odometer readout, security light, interior and exterior lights, HVAC system.  I did not have a chance to play with the PROMS to exactly determine what is bad (EEPROM or BCM).  I will try to get to that tomorrow.

With new BCM, car started right up, ran for a few seconds, then stalled.

S.

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Yesterday I got a chance to switch around BCMs and PROMs.

Whenever I used my EEPROM I got ERROR in the odometer readout.

When I used the EEPROM from the used/tested BCM I bought all was normal.

So I've determined my BCM is good but my EEPROM is bad.

I'm hoping Kevin can help me reprogram this chip.

Even with the functioning BCM and PROMs, the car starts right up, runs smooth for a few seconds to a couple of minutes, then stalls.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

S.

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Is the working EEPROM out of a 1990 as well? If it is I can probably work from that. I don't own a 90, I have 88's and 91's. 88 is close, but not exact and 91 is quite a bit different. I would probably need both the bad and the good one and would then make a new (third) chip and send all three back rather than trying to save the original for reuse as I suspect the chip itself may be bad and don't want to risk the good chip. I'll PM you with details later today as I'm on my way to work.

KDirk

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Just a wild thought but there is an interlock of the fuel pump with the oil pressure sender. This is designed to protect the engine if it loses oil pressure.

 

You said you had 12v on the green fuel pump connector. I'd monitor it and see if it goes to zero just before the engine dies.

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Padgett,

I'll give that a try but right now I'm EEPROM-less.

I sent Kevin my bad chip and the good used one from a '90 BCM I recently acquired.

The only other functioning BCM I have is from a '90 Riviera; I don't even want to go there.

Thanks,

S.

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It's been a long couple of months without being able to drive my car but I believe I'm getting closer to a fix.

To make a long story short:  I sent my eeprom, a good used one I got out of a good used BCM from Jim F. to Kevin.  Along with a new eeprom he reprogramed them to my original chip's specifications (mileage, VIN, options 1 & 2) and sent them back to me.  Almost 3 weeks later Kevin gets the package returned; smashed.  He had his address inside the package or it would never have been returned.  He retested the chips and sent them back to me.

With the good used BCM and reprogramed eeprom the car is no longer doing strange things; however there is still a fuel delivery problem; car starts right up, runs for about a minute, then dies.

I hooked up my DVM to the fuel pump green wire under the hood; with the key on it reads 12.09 volts.  When the car starts it drops down to around 9 volts.  So I'm pretty sure it's not the fuel pump.

I'm trying to replace the oil pressure sender.  The metal part that the wrench fits on is larger than 1" but smaller then 1 1/16"; it's bigger than a 24mm wrench and smaller than a 27mm.  My FLAPS store didn't have any 25mm or 26mm wrenches for me to try.  I thought maybe I could use a deep-well socket but the sender body is too wide, and I still couldn't find a fit.

How is this oil pressure sender replaced?

Thanks,

S.

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