GaryP65 Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 Anyone have suggestions on how to do this? Anyone know the specs? I can't seem to find anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 (edited) Hook up appropriate voltage to appropriate terminal, connect the other terminal with a wire with condensor and ground the condensor body with the coil. Ground the coil body for good measure and leave it connected.Ground the wire with condensor momentarily and release. If the coil jumps spark from the coil wire to ground, then it works. Seems confusing but think of grounding the condensor wire with the coil neg wire at the same time and releasing as doing the job of the points. You could use a hose clamp to clamp the condensor body to the coil body with the neg wire. The coil won't fire until you touch the coil neg wire with condensor to the coil body or neg wire from battery. I don't know if yours is 6v neg ground or pos ground, should not make a difference for testing. As for resistance specs, sorry I don't know. But for testing purposes, points will not fire the coil without a condensor hooked up. If it does, it will be a VERY weak spark. Hope this helps, hopefully someone can explain it more clearly. Edited June 27, 2015 by TexasJohn55 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
platt-deutsch Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 I build the replacement coils for Meyer Early Dodge Parts. The original 12 volt coils had primary resistance of 4.2 Ohms. The secondary has one sides grounded to the threaded stud that holds the steel wire magnetic core around the coil and the other lead is the silver button on the side of the coil. The secondary will measure about 3500 ohms. If it is the late 26 it would be 6 volt and the primary resistance will be about 2.5 ohms and secondary is 3500 ohms. You will need a coil tester to get a good test. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Thanks Platt.Tex..... what? I tried to test it the way I've done on my 60's/70's muscle. Used a multimeter to get a reading but nothing registered. Since this era is new to me, I seem to let this throw me. Logic would dictate the process would still hold but again.....FYI. it's a mid 25 so 12v positive ground.I've got so many issues with this car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 The online Dyke's manual gives a pretty extensive explanation of testing ignition parts, starts about page 230. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 Thanks nearchoclatetown,I found a Dykes manual online but it's edition 19. Got it free on google. Haven't read thru it yet. Can't seem the find #14 for 1925. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Do the continuity tests with the multi-meter (measure resistances) first. If it doesn't show resistances within range it's toast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
platt-deutsch Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Yes.. If the secondary is open it is no good.. Same with the primary.. If it has a short in the secondary coil (even one turn) its toast and only way to see that is on a scope. If you send me the coil I would be glad to test it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FMF Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 There is a Dyke's Manual --- 12th edition on the Dodge Brothers Club website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryP65 Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 Ok.... got spark!!Removed the switch and jumped it. Removed the wire from coil and quick ground showed sparks. Connected all, cranked it... nothing. Removed the distributor cap and noticed the contact on the rotor was not contacting the cap, stretched the spring, put it back together, removed the #1 plug and (TADA!) Sparks!Sound and feel like a little girl.. all giggly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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