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1923 Generator Remy 917 E


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Ladies and Gents

 

my generator commutator housing does not look so nice on exposed end.  The generator does not charge and I went to adjust the third brush and noted the condition of the housing end.  I am thinking its pot metal, did not take it apart tried to adjust brush but quickly became nervous and put the band cover back on not wanting to break anything.  Anyone got a nice 917 E Remy generator?  Is there a source of commutator housing aftermarket????

 

 

Ken

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Ken

There have been numerous posts on this subject in this forum and the SDC forum.

Several cars used this generator and the pot metal from that era crumbled.

Stutz used them and one vendor had new castings made that still need final machining.

If you want his info I will try to find it.

Robert Kapteyn

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When I had to restore the Remy 917-A Generator on my Light Six, I was faced with the same issue of having the pot metal bearing/brush support (end) housing falling apart. I was able to procure an aluminum casting from Dan D. (sldan on this forum). Dan owns a Stutz and had the same issue on his Remy 917-R which uses the same rear bearing/brush housing as the 917-A. My guess is any of the Remy models that ends in 917-(x) will be the same with maybe subtle differences (my parts book shows different part numbers for the rear housing between the 917-E and 917-A but maybe that is just where the pin that clocks the housing goes??)

 

Dan was able to get a wooden mold built for the rear housing and had some aluminum castings made up from a source in Ohio. I purchased one of the castings which took a significant amount of machining on a lathe and mill to correctly fit it to the body and support the brushes. I just transferred all the parts from my own crumbling housing to the new one. I’m not sure if Dan has any spares he wants to sell.

 

Additionally, I purchased a purposely built voltage regulator that was attached to the generator band and allowed removal of the third brush. Voltage regulator was from Jim Peterson, P.O. Box 912, Bend, Oregon 97709 Phone: 541-389-0438 (jpetersonbend@yahoo.com). I restored and calibrated a Remy cutout relay and installed that to give a very correct look and function to the whole system. Note: picture of band is similar to the one I purchased but not the one on my generator. Also before and after pictures.

 

Since I had a process established to make up some new end castings, I offered to make up extras for a fee but had no takers so I abandoned the idea.

 

Jason Smith at Advanced Electrical Rebuilders (http://www.aerrebuild.com/) has machined these Remy generator end housings out of a billet of aluminum, so he would be a good contact to get one made up.

Scott

 

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I read all the forum posts about the Remy 917 when I found one on my 1926 Paige. It looked like the only answer was me. I bought a plug of aluminum and started machining on my six inch Atlas lathe. I am not a machinist and have no training, but IT WORKED ! I had no reason to expect that. The hard part was the swollen original was by only reference for dimensions. With a lathe and basic measuring tools anyone can do it...........if I can. Good luck............. 

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There is one other solution to this problem which I was directed to by an 80 plus year old auto electrician. On the light , standard dictator sixes the older pot metal base generators, Remy 917-A, were replaced by the Remy 949-J which is all cast. The 949-J was standard on the GE in 1928. It was used up until the model 53 in 1930. This generator will bolt right in and looks the same as the pot metal version. The only adaptation is to carefully drill screw holes in the case to mount the coil. The gentleman who told me to go this route said that is the way they fixed them in the 30's when the 917-A's first started crumbling. 

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I don't think there is an end casting on the 949 models. The 917 used a cast iron center section with a pot metal end housing, whereas the 949 housing is a single piece of cast iron with a cast iron end plate that holds the brushes.

Perhaps you can use the center section and end plate from the 949 and everything else from your 917 (front housing, field coils, armature, etc.)

Edited by Stude Light (see edit history)
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You will notice that the center section does not have a split line at the forward edge of the brush access holes like the 917 generators. The center section goes all the way to the back cover which contains the rear bearing and brush holders. I think this is the solution that Ace Generators offered as you will notice that the pictures of the rear of the 949 offered on eBay matches their photos (the rear bearing has a screw on access cover).

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Further along with my thoughts, The relay 263 f Remy is a cutoff switch and noted in the service manual. On my Chevy's they are bolted to generator.  I do not see one on my 1923 EK generator.  It does have a resistance unit by the brushes.  I do have an extra 6 volt generator Remy 943  from my 1927 Chevy's that has a 3rd brush and cutoff but no resistance unit.  Is the resistance unit required? I wondered if I could use that case.  It looks similar.  The field coils have one bolt for 1927 but 2 for 1923.

It looks a lot like the 949 Remy with different nose.

Wish I knew more about electricity.

Edited by 1927Chevy (see edit history)
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Things have evolved, the above case Remy 939x appears to be ready for the 917e nose on the 939x armature.  the armature from the 939x is longer by the threaded portion that the pulley is mounted on.  If the threaded portion is cut off the 939x armature the remaining portion is a keyed shaft the same length and diameter as the 917e before step down.  The 917e shaft end steps down to accept the pictured coupling.  The 939x shaft end does not step down.  Its not much.  I am thinking about drilling out the coupling so it will slide on the larger 939x shaft.  I get nervous drilling the coupling, anyone got an extra one?

 

It appears to me that the later 27-28 Chevy Remy 943 generator case is the same as the Remy 939x but does not have a resistor which I am thinking is not needed anyway with the 27-28 Remy 943 armature set up.  I just happened to find one with a resistor.  The resistor can be removed from the Remy 917e case and mounted on the 27-28 Remy 943 Chevy case. Just got a nice Remy 943 in good shape delivered for 50 bucks from ebay.

 

I found new armatures and field coils on ebay 100 bucks total but will go with used that I have unless they do not work well.  More soon.

 

 

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Its reinstalled and charging

 

what should output be at idle zero, at high rpm goes to 20amps drops to 12amps via resistor I assume, any other comments on output appreciated

 

1927 chevy 943b armature, cut off threaded end of armature shaft with my grinder 5/8 inch or so, needed to be shorter.  had to drill out the coupler to accept the 943b armature front shaft diameter used 11/16 bit did not go all the way thru did not need to. 943b armature shaft 3/32 larger.

 

could have used 943b case (has no resistor) with 917e nose bearing plate.  I wonder why the 943b does not have resistor and the 917e does.  perhaps the windings are different and the 917e puts out more.  the 939x case that I used had 1 bolt field coils the 917e had 2 bolt field coils.  the 939x armature windings were longer same length as the 917e.  the 943b (1927 chevy armature which I used) has shorter windings. all same diameter.  installed the unit behaves like manual describes.  charge gets large and then as rpm increases drops from 18 to 12amps.

 

used the 939x case as it has resistor but single bolt field coils.  939x end plate and case, 943b armature, 917e front bearing plate. had to use a spacer on armature front.

 

had to modify following, cut 5/8 or so off 943b armature, drill hole in 939x case to accept stud that wire harness connects to, had to enlarge and tap the threads on 917e front bearing plate to fit larger diameter long bolts 5/16 18 tap, drill hole in case to accommodate side mount stud engine side top attaches to bracket, enlarge coupler hole to 11/16 did not drill all the way thru.

 

one more issue to resolve the case needs to be rotated 180 degrees so I will remove and drill a new hole in front bearing plate to accommodate the rotation.  access to 3rd brush enhanced.

 

more soon with pics

Edited by 1927Chevy (see edit history)
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