Guest 68bill Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 I think the outer casing on the turn signal switch actuating cable is broken. I pulled the steering wheel and bearing on the shaft but could not figure out how to go any further. It looked like the Chromed cover should come off next but it won't move. I have the 63 chassis service manual that includes the Riviera but it has no info on Riv tilt column. Where can I find the brake down diagram and instruction?ThanksBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 68bill Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 I found the brake down diagram I needed just in a different part of the service manual and it tells me there I need two slide hammers to remove the chromed actuator cover so maybe I'll get it apart when I get the right tools. Does anyone make replacement actuating cables?Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 You will need to source good used ones as they are not reproduced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 68bill Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Thanks for the reply. I had read in an old post that someone was going to try to have a bicycle shop make one. Did that not work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 That may have been me. I live next door to a guy who owns a motorcycle sales and repair shop. I just haven't got to the point where I need to replace a cable yet. The cables on both my '63 and '64 are still in one piece. As I try to think back, I'm thinking that Jim Cannon might have come up with a fix for that. It's the sheath that's broken, not the wire inside, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 68bill Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Yes It's just the sheath. I haven't got it out yet but maybe this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn McMahon Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Hi NewbieTry a place called McMaster Carr. They carry many parts that can be retrofitted to our Rivs. For example the stainless steel cowl screen. They may have bulk sheathed cable in various sizes?Good LuckGlenn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 68bill Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I got the puller I needed today and with the steering wheel, chrome cover and switch removed I took out the one screw holding the top of the cable and slid the eye of the cable off the pin and fished the cable out going down. The sheath was broken at the top clamp and while I was fishing it out it broke halfway down the sheath where it had a bad ware spot through the sheath down to the cable. I had some electrical heat shrink 3/16 x 1 1/4 so after cleaning the sheath and making some small cuts on it with a knife where the heat shrink could grip it I used a small pair of needlnose pliers to expand the heat shrink enough to slide over the eye. The heat shrink shrunk down good and gripped just fine but I thought while I was at it I just as well add extra layers to it for strength. I put three layers at the top and two in the middle. I have seen different thicknesses of heat shrink and don't know if all would be able to be expanded that much and still shrink down tight. Mine was fairly thick walled but not the type with glue in it. Turn signals now work right and left.Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Great idea. Thanks for posting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 68 bill- do you have a picture of that tool you used to pull out chrome piece. I also need to remove it to replace old one with new one. That thing is stuck in there. Would really appreciate the help. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 On 6/3/2015 at 5:16 PM, 68bill said: I got the puller I needed today and with the steering wheel, chrome cover and switch removed I took out the one screw holding the top of the cable and slid the eye of the cable off the pin and fished the cable out going down. The sheath was broken at the top clamp and while I was fishing it out it broke halfway down the sheath where it had a bad ware spot through the sheath down to the cable. I had some electrical heat shrink 3/16 x 1 1/4 so after cleaning the sheath and making some small cuts on it with a knife where the heat shrink could grip it I used a small pair of needlnose pliers to expand the heat shrink enough to slide over the eye. The heat shrink shrunk down good and gripped just fine but I thought while I was at it I just as well add extra layers to it for strength. I put three layers at the top and two in the middle. I have seen different thicknesses of heat shrink and don't know if all would be able to be expanded that much and still shrink down tight. Mine was fairly thick walled but not the type with glue in it. Turn signals now work right and left. Bill Hi bill, wanted to know if you had a picture of that tool you used to pull whole chrome piece out. I’m replacing mine with a re-chromed one and that thing is well stuck in there. I would appreciate it thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 3 hours ago, Mass9192 said: Hi bill, wanted to know if you had a picture of that tool you used to pull whole chrome piece out. I’m replacing mine with a re-chromed one and that thing is well stuck in there. I would appreciate it thanks! I used an internal gear/pulley puller. The attached picture is the official Buick tool to do it. Seeing this, you could probably make one from a piece of sheet steel. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Bill (and everyone with a 1st gen. Riviera with a tilt column): I strongly recommend that you remove the external spring from the underside of the turn signal switch down on the column. The spring is not needed. It is over-engineered. The tension of the spring on the turn signal cable sheath is what breaks it over time, especially if you tilt the steering wheel to the full up position. That stretches the cable out to its full length and pulls the switch up a bit against the spring. The switch body is designed to slide up and down two pins. You can see them in the picture of the switch with the spring removed. You can see how much the switch moves by the marks left where the pin heads slide. Make sure it is free to move on those pins. Let the wiring harness pull the switch down, instead of the spring. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 10 hours ago, Jim Cannon said: Bill (and everyone with a 1st gen. Riviera with a tilt column): I strongly recommend that you remove the external spring from the underside of the turn signal switch down on the column. The spring is not needed. It is over-engineered. The tension of the spring on the turn signal cable sheath is what breaks it over time, especially if you tilt the steering wheel to the full up position. That stretches the cable out to its full length and pulls the switch up a bit against the spring. The switch body is designed to slide up and down two pins. You can see them in the picture of the switch with the spring removed. You can see how much the switch moves by the marks left where the pin heads slide. Make sure it is free to move on those pins. Let the wiring harness pull the switch down, instead of the spring. Thanks for the tip! 👍🏼 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ro65 Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 Bill, how did you attach the gear puller to the chrome turn signal housing? Did you use the shaft as a push point? What causes the chrome housing to be stuck in the first place. Also, how do you get the other chrome collar out that is below the turn signal housing, as both of mine need to be rechromed? Thanks, Ro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 Hi Ro, You dont need a gear puller...that is overkill. Just use a prying tool under the lip of the chrome collar, working your way around the collar, and use the steering shaft as a fulcrum. The press fit of the collar is very light. Tom Mooney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ro65 Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 Thanks Tom, I'll do that tomorrow. How about that smaller chrome collar under the housing piece? Ro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mass9192 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Just a heads up you can’t remove the chrome collar. It’s part of the whole unit. Also when you get it re-chromed make sure to sand the inside of the diameter because it will probably be to thick to go back in. I made the mistake of trying to force it in and damaged the chrome a lil. Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ro65 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Thanks for the heads up. I just pulled the whole column out of the car and disassemble it. I can now see that the collar is spot welded to the mast jacket. I'm going to contact my plating company and see if I can have it rechromed still attached or do I have to drill out the spot welds and remove the collar from the jacket. Not sure what you are referring to about sanding the inside because of chrome built up. Could you please elaborate? Thanks, Ro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Because the chroming process adds material to the piece. Copper, then Nickel, them Chrome. Even though they are ONLY trying to plate the outside they have little to no control how much of the inside gets plated. Understand?? It's not like painting where you can mask off a piece of the part you don't want any paint going onto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 9 hours ago, Ro65 said: Thanks for the heads up. I just pulled the whole column out of the car and disassemble it. I can now see that the collar is spot welded to the mast jacket. I'm going to contact my plating company and see if I can have it rechromed still attached or do I have to drill out the spot welds and remove the collar from the jacket. Not sure what you are referring to about sanding the inside because of chrome built up. Could you please elaborate? Thanks, Ro Hi Ro, Have you considered just buying a used replacement piece with acceptable original chrome? I might have a column that is partially disassembled for parts? Tom Mooney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ro65 Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 I understand the plating process, I'm trying to understand where you are sanding. Is this at the top of the collar where the hub pivots in the collar? Also, how did you get the 2 tilt springs back on the post? Thanks Tom, how much are you asking and how much of the column do you want to sell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 12 hours ago, Ro65 said: I understand the plating process, I'm trying to understand where you are sanding. Is this at the top of the collar where the hub pivots in the collar? Also, how did you get the 2 tilt springs back on the post? Thanks Tom, how much are you asking and how much of the column do you want to sell? Lol...the tilt springs are challenging. It`s mostly a matter of one`s skill set combined with whatever tools one finds comfortable to work with. I use a small and large flat blade screwdriver that I modified against a leverage point. It can be frustrating... I would need to check if I have a column that I have used for parts. It`s likely that I do have one so I can sell you whatever you think you need. I`ll send you a PM after I check, Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ro65 Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Thanks Tom, after further review of the shop manual I found the Kent-Moore tool number, which I found the tool available on Ebay. I decided to eliminate the problem by purchasing the correct tool for the job. I made a puller for the pivot pins, so that issue is covered. Let me know what you have. Thanks, Ro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ro65 Posted February 18, 2021 Share Posted February 18, 2021 Tom, who do you recommend for odometer repair? Speedometer and trip work, Thanks, Ro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
65RivProject Posted May 7, 2023 Share Posted May 7, 2023 My turn signals work, but the chrome sleeve is severely beat up - looks like some one beat on the edge of it with a hammer or, more likely, used a screwdriver against it to try prying off the steering wheel. Doh! I haven't seen a chrome sleeve for sale anywhere. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted May 7, 2023 Share Posted May 7, 2023 7 hours ago, 65RivProject said: My turn signals work, but the chrome sleeve is severely beat up - looks like someone beat on the edge of it with a hammer or, more likely, used a screwdriver against it to try prying off the steering wheel. Doh! I haven't seen a chrome sleeve for sale anywhere. Any suggestions? Get one from a parts car. I may have one. I'll have to look. I don't remember. I use a wheel puller / gear puller to remove mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abandg Posted May 7, 2023 Share Posted May 7, 2023 Is this what you are looking for. Gene. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
65RivProject Posted May 8, 2023 Share Posted May 8, 2023 Yes! It's excellent - a *bit* better than mine. I also need a harmonic damper for the 401, as mine is cracked. I can't message yet since my "account has not yet met the minimum content item count requirement", but if you'll message me with price and contact info, I'd appreciate that. Thanks Gene. -Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted May 8, 2023 Share Posted May 8, 2023 Another question comes to mind. With a crack this big how is the snout/end of crankshaft??? It had to be wobbling for some time. Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted May 8, 2023 Share Posted May 8, 2023 Another note. I've NEVER used a puller to get the collar off. I used a GOOD FLAT screwdriver & gingerly tapped the end with a hammer side-side. Another area where patience is a virtue. Just my thoughts. Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
65RivProject Posted May 8, 2023 Share Posted May 8, 2023 Thanks for asking Tom. The crank snout looks okay - OD is 1.426" Damper ID is 1.440 And thanks for the tip on column sleeve removal. Patience is my forte. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 8, 2023 Share Posted May 8, 2023 You can purchase sleeves to shim cranks and balancers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Cannon Posted May 8, 2023 Share Posted May 8, 2023 Here is a picture of the factory tool that goes under the lip of the cover to pull it up and off. It gave me the idea to use 2 bolt heads (locked on to the puller with nuts) up under the lip of the cover to pull it off with a gear puller. It's not like it takes a lot of force to remove it, I just didn't want to damage it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
65RivProject Posted May 9, 2023 Share Posted May 9, 2023 Thanks Jim. Necessity is the mother of invention. If we don't have the right tool, we make it or find a way to make something in the tool box work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted May 9, 2023 Share Posted May 9, 2023 You CANNOT put a Readi-Sleeve on the crank only the harmonic balancer. Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
65RivProject Posted May 9, 2023 Share Posted May 9, 2023 If I understand right, the balancer readi-sleeve is only for the seal surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted May 9, 2023 Share Posted May 9, 2023 6 hours ago, 65RivProject said: If I understand right, the balancer readi-sleeve is only for the seal surface. Correct...not for the nose of the crank. Tom Mooney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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