What plastic restore products do most of my fellow Reatta folks recommend for rear lighr bar

[Guest Richard D]

They look hazed, no yellow no visible scratches. Used to use cloth buffer, cordless drill and blue coral rear window polish. There must be longer lasting polish now with all the headlight restoration products. Don't want to get too aggressive, plastic does seem soft. Any recommendations?

Thanks to all,

Richard

[Guest PontiacDude210]

I was wondering the same thing. I just bought a great looking used tail light but it is hazy. I just read a thread earlier about using a headlight restore kit to clear up a taillights lens. They bought a kit with 3 kinds of sandpaper and a brush on clear. They said avoid the 400 grit, skip right to the 1000 I believe. Then after using the highest grit paper in the kit, hand applying the clear, which is like a thin oil. Search tail light restoration. You'll find the thread.

I had luck with a badly damaged one just cleaning and spray clear coating it. It looks pretty good, a little grey er than it should be. Then I tried the same with one I stripped some spray tint off and it turned completely gray. It looks like an even grey tint across it. I don't understand the chemical reaction there.

Sorry to ramble. The best results seem to come from a headlight repair kit containing sand paper.

[Guest Corvanti]

the 1st time i did mine, i used Quixx acrylic repair kit. available at most flaps and online around $10. it has a wet/dry sandpaper, can't remember the grit, and a nice applying cloth that comes with it. i buffed it out with a Mothers Power Ball. i was impressed with the improvement! i kept a good coat of UV protection wax on it. right before i "needed" to sell her, i redid the procedure with Meguiar's PlastX and buffed with the power ball, then more wax. it really didn't need it so much the 2nd time, but still looked better, close to the 1st time, as that took most of the "crap" off of it.

[DAVES89]

I used the Sylvania Headlight Repair kit. Worked great for two summers  and now needs to be redone. It has everything one needs for the job including sandpaper. I skipped the rough sandpaper and went just with the fine. Turned out great.

 BTW there is a youtube how to by the manufactuer. I did mine in the basement with my computer following each step...

[raleets]

I've had very good results on my '89 using Semichrome metal polish.

It contains a very mild abrasive that seems to remove the "dullness" and restore the shine to the plastic.

I apply it by hand with a cotton cloth, rubbing with medium pressure, in a

circular motion. I than IMMEDIATELY wipe it off with a microfiber cloth.

I then give it a good coat of Eagle 1 wax. I normally do this procedure about

every two months and it keeps the lens looking pretty good.

Good luck!

Edited May 30, 2015 by raleets (see edit history)

[padgett]

Years ago I found that just wiping a faded lens with motor oil would restore it for about a week, have seen a wipe on TV that I suspect is the same. About once a month I apply "Blue Magic Headlight Protectorant" to all plastic surfaces and all stays good.

[Guest my3buicks]

I know people get bent out of shape when someone recommends looking up old posts, but this subject has been discussed several times - and everyone thinks their product works best to the point about getting ugly about it.

[KDirk]

Regarding PD210's observation on chemical reaction, be very careful if spraying any kind of clear coat on the plastic lens. I made that mistake once thinking I'd get greater longevity from an auto grade clear coat. It reacted with the plastic (not sure if the lens is polycarbonate or something else again) but it reacted in a way tha ruined the outer 1/16"+ of plastic.

Had to sand it down to clear undamaged plastic again and polish it to get ot looking decent again. I suspect the solvent base of the spray clear reacted badly with the plastic and left it looking like crackle glass (as often seen in antique look light fixtures). I had another lens smsprayed by a guy who used a 3 part epoxy (clear, activator and UV inhibitor mixed together) and then cured with a heat gun. This didn't etch the plastic despite being lacquer based (I assume) so I'm mystified about why one did this and the other didn't.

The same applies to blackout sprays commonly found in auto parts stores. Seems one is better off wet sanding with 1000+ grit and then buffing out for best appearance but reduced longevity of the shine rather than trying to overcoat the lens with rattle can clear or tint coats.

KDirk

[Guest PontiacDude210]

I know people get bent out of shape when someone recommends looking up old posts, but this subject has been discussed several times - and everyone thinks their product works best to the point about getting ugly about it.

I found another thread specifically addressing this. Easy to find with search, but I recall seeing more in the past than what I found on just that search.

And yes, the plastic is odd in how it reacts to chemicals. I'm trying a Quixx lens restoration kit when it comes in, someone else used one in another thread with some results.

[Guest Richard D]

Thanks to all for your help and advice. FYI I did do a search before asking the question, however it didn't seem to help very much. The new headlight resrorer kits and wipe on/wipe off products seem to be increasing at a fast rate and was wondering if spending $30.00 for a complete kit or the "wipe" products are as good as advertised or go with a buff on, buff off product. For a typical question I do a search first. Been here a little while. This and Ronnie's site are two of the best on the web IMHO

Thanks again,

Richard.

[franc944]

On the last Reatta vert I restored I used the same heavy cut, medium, and fine compound and rotary buffer as used on all the body panels.

I like Smartwax and Mcguires compounds but any brand should work just as well.

All those kits are are compounds. If you already have compounds and a buffer for paint do t waste your money.

It came out like new. I did not buy any special kits.

Thanks to all for your help and advice. FYI I did do a search before asking the question, however it didn't seem to help very much. The new headlight resrorer kits and wipe on/wipe off products seem to be increasing at a fast rate and was wondering if spending $30.00 for a complete kit or the "wipe" products are as good as advertised or go with a buff on, buff off product. For a typical question I do a search first. Been here a little while. This and Ronnie's site are two of the best on the web IMHO

Thanks again,

Richard.

[Guest Richard D]

I think I have all the information I need. If I run into a specific problem(jee it looks like it is melting)I will ask. Otherwise thanks for your help, I don't want to repeat any questions already answered.

BEST REGARDS TO ALL,

Richard

[Guest my3buicks]

I just typed in tail light on the search and was able to find at least five threads dedicated to this very question, you may want to do that as there are some products listed that are not listed on this particular thread

[Guest Corvanti]

just a quick response - from what i've read on other sites, the ones in the TV ads are basically LInseed Oil - not good. there's been one going around on Facebook that Bug Repellant (Off) works on headlights. as the late Senator Helms said about another subject: "Just don't do it!"  

[Guest Richard D]

I stuck with the blue magic plastic polish. One pass made it look much better, I tried a small section a second time and it looks almost new. It also works great on the front parking lights. But what really ticked me off was a standard roll of half inch Scotch paper masking tape, the cheap brown stuff, not the expensive blue type. $8.99 per roll at Advance auto. When my dad owned a paint and body shop it was like 50 cents a roll and came on a metal rack that would stick half to the brown masking paper. It had a serrated edge so you just pull what you need and in one motion pull off what you need. It held three rolls, 6, 12 and I think 24 inch wide paper. Things have changed. 9 dollars for a roll of plain paper masking tape.

Excuse my rant.

[padgett]

I remember buying a new Camaro: V8 4-spd, guage package, console, disk brakes, and AC. $3500 list and paid $2700. Of course gas was 20c/gal.

[Guest my3buicks]

I stuck with the blue magic plastic polish. One pass made it look much better, I tried a small section a second time and it looks almost new. It also works great on the front parking lights. But what really ticked me off was a standard roll of half inch Scotch paper masking tape, the cheap brown stuff, not the expensive blue type. $8.99 per roll at Advance auto. When my dad owned a paint and body shop it was like 50 cents a roll and came on a metal rack that would stick half to the brown masking paper. It had a serrated edge so you just pull what you need and in one motion pull off what you need. It held three rolls, 6, 12 and I think 24 inch wide paper. Things have changed. 9 dollars for a roll of plain paper masking tape.

Excuse my rant.

I hear you, I recently bought a townhouse and painted it from top to bottom on the inside and of course used a ton of masking tape, it about killed me to put those roles in my shopping basket at the price they were asking

[KDirk]

Hey, try auto paint on for size. Just picked up 2 quarts of DuPont Nason WA8774 bright red for my 'vert at the bargain price of $205 per quart. Also needed activiator, and a gallon of clear coat and activator plus a mixing cup which brought my total to about $700. For another $300 I could've bought another Reatta advertised locally. Not that I'd want to, just making the comparison. Turns out black is the cheapest color at $85 per quart, white is about $125 a quart (I asked out of curiosity).

KDirk

[Guest PontiacDude210]

Let me personally vouch for the Quixx restore kit. 20 bucks, less than an hour and it made a hazy lens presentable with no sanding. Although it came with sanding papers if needed.

[handmedownreatta]

Let me personally vouch for the Quixx restore kit. 20 bucks, less than an hour and it made a hazy lens presentable with no sanding. Although it came with sanding papers if needed.

how long did it last?btw i really miss the 'first unread' feature.

Edited June 6, 2015 by handmedownreatta (see edit history)

[Guest PontiacDude210]

Well, after polishing my new tail light last night, it still looks great this morning. I'll let you know about long term. The packaging claims it will keep looking good if the "sealer," which is a wax like product, is applied every three months. I was just impressed the restoring compound, which appears to be a plastic buffer, took off so much haze without sanding

[DAVES89]

I just did mine again today. It had been 2 years since I had to do anything to it [just wash the car/ dry and drive] after using the Sylvania Headlight kit. I had some left over product and after a quick "look over" I started in. I had enough of everything [sandpaper, rubbing compound, and clear restorer] but I didn't see that the topcoat had dried in the bottle.

 So I was in a dilema, do I go buy another kit just for the top coat product, leave it as is [looked pretty good] or look in my paint supplies for something else. This wouldn't be a good story if I did either of the first two, so as you can guess I used something I had in the basement. I ruled out using a clear acrylic [too clear, maybe a reaction to the light bar plastic], interior varnish [car will be driven outside, I want it to last], so I thought let's try an exterior Alkyd Spar Varnish. The chemical make up of the product is made to be applied to almost any surface, it is amber in color [very close match to the top coat product in the Sylvania kit] and it is an exterior use product. The product I used is called Flecto Varrathane Exterior Spar Varnish

 I just put a coat on and it looks great. I'm only putting one coat on as I want the product to wear away uniformily so when it comes time to recoat, it will sand down to bare plastic again fairly easily with just 1000 then 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper. I did not remove the Buick letters I just used 3-M  blue painters tape and a sharp razor blade to protect the letters.

 The taillight I did is on the Red which is the car I will be bringing to Springfield if anyone wants to check it out. 

[Guest HuevosRanchero]

As nutz as it might sound I have used Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish for years on stuff like this...its a quick and easy solution...followed up by a good wax job it can last quite a while.  The Buicks lenses were pretty bad...these pics were after one application. Waited a few days to note any adverse reaction but didnt see any. 

 

rear was the worst

 

 

the not yet done driver side front

 

passenger side done.  Level of detail improvement in lense was tremendous.

Edited June 15, 2015 by HuevosRanchero (see edit history)