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2carb40

1955 Century Mod

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Want to put a 56 left side dual exhaust manifold on my 55 century. Will it clear standard trans linkage on steering column? Any body tried it?              

               

       After working under the car for sometime, I made the decision that it's not worth the effort for dual exhaust. Plenty of demons to thwart without tilting at that windmill, so to speak!

Edited by 2carb40 (see edit history)

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The biggest problem I have seen is that there is no way to get pipes to the back of the car without cutting the frame. Next problem is avoiding the under seat brake booster.

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The biggest problem I have seen is that there is no way to get pipes to the back of the car without cutting the frame. Next problem is avoiding the under seat brake booster.

For a visual, it will dump about the same location as the right side manifold.  It has been done, but if it were easy we would all have duals :D

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I would talk to an exhaust shop and see if they can possibly take the same bends off the y pipe and create your true duel and see if they can run it a long side your existing exhaust and out the rear on both sides. Or get a single in dual out muffler and go that route maybe. If there is a will there is a way.

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I would talk to Waldron's Exhaust. They advertise '53 to '55 dual exhaust conversions. I am not familiar with '56's but bet they will know what is required. My dealings with them have been positive.

Gary

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Thanx for all the input. I'm almost ready to test my rotator cuff repair with regards lifting and tugging on wrenches. I'm really excited to get going on this car as I've collected some good stuff for upgrades and modification. Gotta keep my impatience in check so I don't rip things and have to start over on shoulder. Interesting the medical folks didn't say at the outset that getting back to full function would be 12 to 18 months! Details to follow.

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You will most likely need to relocate the master cylinder to do a full dual exhaust.

I did a single high flow exhaust on betty and I'm quite pleased with the results

My suggestion would be to split it in the back if you really desire the dual exhaust look.

Otherwise, you are going to do alot of work for no real gain, other than the look.

 

I'm doing a 56 convertible now. You can see that the master cylinder gets lifted to the cowl, then suddenly dual exhaust is simple. If you have the 56 parts they probably would go in fairly easy but its still a big project. The 56 also uses a rag joint on the steering column so you get alot more room to work with. I may just post some photos comparing the 56 to the 54. The 56 also has a better hood hinge setup, always fun to look at the year to year evolution of these cars.

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Way behind on virtually everything with the rotator cuff tear to right shoulder making me avoid the use of the arm like a lefty, only my left side is too weak and unco-ordinated to accomplish much! The slow down has had one positive effect; I reflected on my physical abilities and deciced the stick shift option is out. I drove one of my other Buicks, '39 with regular steering and stick and remembered how much pleasure the option of PS and automatic offer comparitively! I have a 56 Century Dynaflow that operated without leaks. Buick engineered an extra stator into the torque convertor which provide for more efficient operation and quicker take-off from standing start. The bellhousing became an inch deeper, increasing overal length by the same amount compared with Special/Century Dynaflows.Super/Roadmaster dynaflows have an inch longer tailshaft from the factory, so are the same length as all models of '56s. My plan at this point is to install the '56 Century Dynaflow in my '55 Century by romoving the outer tube from the '55 Century driveshaft torque tube and have the driveline company cut it one inch shorter, then use my cutoof wheel to cut an inch fom the front spline on the inner shaft, therby accommodating the extra inch of the '56 Dynafow. Research has indicaded that all exterior mechanical controls are the same '55-'56 on these transmissions, the control differences done with internal circuitry only, indicating outside link should work as is excepting '56 linkage rods will prolley need to be used to accommadate one inch longer length. My Hollander interchange manual stated in the trans interchange section," if you can find a 56 transmission use it instead, as it is far superior to the 55 as replacement!" Comments from anyone with experience or positve suggestions on techniques to do this are welcomed. For all the negative naysayers, the beatings will continue, haha!quote name="54fins" post="1418120" timestamp="1444936400"]You will most likely need to relocate the master cylinder to do a full dual exhaust.

I did a single high flow exhaust on betty and I'm quite pleased with the results

My suggestion would be to split it in the back if you really desire the dual exhaust look.

Otherwise, you are going to do alot of work for no real gain, other than the look.

I'm doing a 56 convertible now. You can see that the master cylinder gets lifted to the cowl, then suddenly dual exhaust is simple. If you have the 56 parts they probably would go in fairly easy but its still a big project. The 56 also uses a rag joint on the steering column so you get alot more room to work with. I may just post some photos comparing the 56 to the 54. The 56 also has a better hood hinge setup, always fun to look at the year to year evolution of these cars.

Edited by 2carb40 (see edit history)
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Wow! Time flies wether your having fun or not. Progress has been slooow, but it marches slowly on! Sharing pix of oil filter mod, which is '59-'60  adapter. Bolts right on with no leaks it angles slightly, which is actually a plus. Raising it very slightly and positioning it nicely away from interference. I like this one because I can use new style filter and less messy! All bolt-on. '56 trans all bolted in. Six way seat from 56 Olds 98 series 2 Dr ht purchased from Scott at Ellingsons car sales is same width as Century and a bolt-in as well! Stainless lined rebuilt master cylinder installed. Four new wheel cyls purchased from Jackson Auto and Machine in Duluth ready to install. Chrome strips for headliner trim in process. All side trim repaired and polished, but uninstalled. Missing door panels, but power window switches and forward side glass and chrome trim surround purchased, but uninstalled. Rears tested, fronts not, but regulators with motors attached, purchased from same 98 Olds. I think prolley only nine hundred ninty nine things left to do, so still some fun cut out 4 me! Whew! Details still to follow. 

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20 hours ago, Beemon said:

Greg, would love to see your oil filter adapter!

See above edit. Took my pass ex manifold off, so I had a better angle for photo. Ordered new stainless crossover from Waldrons in MI today. Forgot how stubborn ex bolts and nuts can be!

20170421_180602.jpg

Edited by 2carb40 (see edit history)
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On 10/6/2015 at 9:32 AM, g-g-g0 said:

I would talk to Waldron's Exhaust. They advertise '53 to '55 dual exhaust conversions. I am not familiar with '56's but bet they will know what is required. My dealings with them have been positive.

Gary

Recently ordered a stainless crossover pipe. Asked about duals, the reply was, "We just could not get that worked out. It's no longer being offered. The ads just haven't caught up with that info yet.

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Greg, sorry for confusion, but what adapter did you use for the 59-60 Buick spin on filter?

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12 hours ago, Beemon said:

Greg, sorry for confusion, but what adapter did you use for the 59-60 Buick spin on filter?

The filter is not the 59-60 part, the aluminum adapter is available from 1959&'60 Buick 364&401 engines and bolts directly on 322" engines without mods! The filter U C is Wix, which is my chosen favorite after researching the tech and especially after reading the negative comments about some other brands. Some others have same specs but bad rep for other things.CAUTION these are NOT beefy. Take the bolts out of the engine block and carry home to unscrew filter CAREFULLY from aluminum adapter. They are plenty strong when bolted to engine, but remove adapter before taking engine out of car, as many have broken when a loose engine rolls over on that adapter.

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rps20170502_210342_690.jpg.86fc69fe4e82706d41ef511d37b0e717.jpgrps20170502_210434.jpg.5642b547d0560238f7f882558efa1c78.jpgrps20170502_210514_713.jpg.f022e3b68b1076b145b96fd405a691af.jpgPicked up 3 gals of muratic acid 2day. Put my exhaust manifolds in a storage tub and covered them with 2 1/2 gals and put cover on. Marinate for 24 hrs and check for light gray cast iron color(will actually prolly look black till rinsed and neutralised)! Massive quantities of baking soda will neutralise. Then options to preserve are VHT HIGH TEMP,     SLIP PLATE, A GRAPHITE brush-on PAINT available from Ace hardware in quarts. Commercial Ceramic coating. Or, let it return to natural orange rust color, but without the carbon buildup inside! Pictures soon. Oil pump still soaking in safety clean. Will assess condition when clean and dissembled. Hopefully tomorrow. Extra oil pan restored and ready to install. Gettin' closer! Sure glad this car is so solid, just some surface rust, absolutely no rust thru, otherwise it'd be gone! Friend helped put on the dent free replacement hood. Unfortunately when the former owner took delivery, the JEAN YUS trucker smashed his hauler into the front of the original hood while unloading, somehow! Ruined the hood and the hard to replace diecast trim above the grille got it as well. Replacement hood acquired, and switched, luckily. Cleaned pump and pickup. Checked bottom plate circular lines barely able to catch a fingernail on. Decided not to resurface. Memory if fingernail barely can catch less than 0.002 deep? Been awhile since I taught that class for Toro about using figure 8 then reverse. Start 80 grit, progressively finer to 320? Anywho, I'm happy to not resurface, use as is after complete clean. Had good pressure before removal, but wanted to clean and check for reassurance! Now the fun of scrapeing the block mating surface for the pan gasket. Nice weather finally, scarce round here. Hard to catch-up after winter! Packed pump with vasilene to await install when pan gasket prep done. Tomorrow? he wondered hopefully!

Edited by 2carb40 (see edit history)
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Greg, thanks for the info! I guess I'll be searching for a 59-60 Buick to grab the filter housing from. The original filter housing doesn't have a drain back valve like the modern filters do, so I'm sure you'll have immediate oil pressure on start-up with that new filter vs. retaining the old canister style.

 

Saw this on Ebay and thought it would be interesting, but I would hate to go untighten the filter and the adapter comes with it.

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11 hours ago, Beemon said:

Greg, thanks for the info! I guess I'll be searching for a 59-60 Buick to grab the filter housing from. The original filter housing doesn't have a drain back valve like the modern filters do, so I'm sure you'll have immediate oil pressure on start-up with that new filter vs. retaining the old canister style.

 

Saw this on Ebay and thought it would be interesting, but I would hate to go untighten the filter and the adapter comes with it.

Pm me when U want one.

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26 minutes ago, RivNut said:

I can't get the link to go where I think it should go, but the Calyx is great stuff.  Especially when it's necessary for a touch-up.

I'll be checking that stuff out. Thanks for the heads up!

Edited by 2carb40 (see edit history)

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There are some spin-on filters which have an internal anti-drainback valve in them as others the same size do not.  Might need to get in the back of the filter book, in the "Specs" section to find this information.  Or others that might fit.

 

NTX5467

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