Guest frcc16 Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 I have a front fender trim that I need to salvage. It has several dents from who knows what... see pictures. The pictures show a new piece next to the piece that I need to restore. Any hints or advice on the best way to hammer out these dents without making it worse??? Thanks!Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 Is it crome plated steel or stainless steel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 (edited) That is stainless steel. Go to YouTube and watch a couple of stainless steel restoration videos. REMEMBER: WHENEVER POLISHING STAINLESS TRIM, WEAR HEAVY GLOVES AS THE BUFFER/POLISHER WILL TRY TO GRAB THE TRIM OUT OF YOUR HAND. I know a friend in an old car club that was helping her husband polish trim and lost some fingers. Edited May 25, 2015 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest frcc16 Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 OK, I will check them out.... Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 A buffing wheel is the most dangerous machine/tool in your shop........................Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 A buffing wheel is the most dangerous machine/tool in your shop........................BobAMEN to that!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 (edited) A friend of mine restores damaged trim. His main tool is a small hand press, it looks a little like a drill press without the drill. He makes different tools that clamp in the press like a drill in a drill press. Usually made of bumper bolts ground to shape. He carefully presses the stainless from the inside using a block of 2X4 as an anvil. By working slowly and carefully he can work out the dents. You need to be careful, it is easy to push too far. This is why he does not use the hammer and dolly method anymore. Once the dents are out he uses a fine file to remove or minimize scratches and gouges then buffs on a series of ever finer buffing wheels. He can make most pieces look like new but it is not a quick job. The piece you show would take more than an hour . This is why he no longer does this work for customers. No one can comprehend how hard it is to do right, or how long it takes. Edited May 26, 2015 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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