Need help with 63 Studebaker Hawk GT Spark

[Guest hawk inherited]

Hello I recently inherited a 1963 Studebaker GT Hawk that I have not been able to get started.

The starter engages but alas no spark coming from either plugs or coil. I have replaced the coil, and condenser, as well as sanded distributor points. All the wires going to the coil have proper resistance (from wiring diagram in manual) and all the other electrical on the car seems to function. I noticed after replacing the condenser after trying to start the car for about 30 seconds the negative terminal on the battery was very hot to touch.

I will admit I am a youngster so very out of my element with this type of starting system. Any suggestions on where to look or things to try would be greatly appreciated. Below is a picture of the car.

Edited May 5, 2015 by hawk inherited (see edit history)

[SeventhSon]

Hi, my mother had a '63 Hawk - she drove that car everywhere. She loved it! It's very strange that the negative terminal on the battery is getting hot - almost sounds like the voltage regulator has reversed polarity or has stuck contacts. Check it out - a bad voltage regulator can turn your nice pretty Studebaker into a crispy black one! Good luck.

[Guest hawk inherited]

Thank you for your suggestion. Is there a good way to test it or should I just replace it?

[SeventhSon]

I would send it off to Dave Thibault in Massachusetts and have him replace the innards with a solid state unit. That way you don't have any moving parts and the unit should be much more reliable. Dave does a very nice job on the voltage regulators, as well as all the Studebaker stuff he rebuilds. An online search should bring up his number. Meanwhile, you could get a new unit from NAPA for pretty reasonable and try it out to see if it helps your problem. Also, make sure the ground strap for the engine is in good shape and connected.

[pacerman]

I am not a Stude guy but if your car has a generator (not an alternator) you need to polarize it each time the battery has been disconnected. To do that make a short jumper wire and momentarily connect it between the B terminal on the voltage regulator and the A terminal. Do not touch the F terminal. As far as your ignition system is concerned, check to see if you have 12 volts at the positive terminal of the coil with the ignition switch on. If so check to see if you can get spark from the secondary coil wire to any ground when someone cranks the engine. If yes, the the problem is probably in the distributor.

[Larry W]

If you get spark, the distributor is okay. If you don't have 12 volts at the + terminal of the coil while cranking the engine, remove the wire and momentarily connect a jumper wire from the + side of the coil to the + side of the battery while cranking the engine. DO NOT LEAVE THIS WIRE CONNECTED when not cranking. If you get spark and/ or the engine starts, the problem is in the wiring prior to the coil, possibly the ignition switch.

[Woodfiddler]

That sure looks like a beauty. Is there any back story about the car, the previous owner and/or some of the history? Is that North Carolina pictured in the background? It's a beautiful area! Good luck and thanks for letting us view your "new" car. More pictures are always desired here at AACA. 

[Larry W]

Check out the thread: "Gound (not zero)" started by Rogillio, especially post #21, for a good explanation of what you're dealing with.

Edited May 29, 2015 by Larry W (see edit history)