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31 minutes ago, EmTee said:

How's the ride with the cut springs?  Does it bottom-out at all?

No, no bottoming out.  It's a little stiffer than stock, as the shorter you make a spring, the higher the rate gets.  But, it's not uncomfortable at all, just doesn't "float" like a stock one anymore.  I think having the low profile tires makes a bigger difference in ride quality than the springs do. I'm going to put the 15" Supremes and Coker wide whites off my Caddy on it this summer when I get it re-aligned (the alignment machine can't clamp on the 20s with them tucked in like they are), then I'll know for sure, but on my F100 when I switch from my 18" summer tires to my 15" winters, it rides like a completely different truck.  Lucascadriv.thumb.png.df54c5637b22582ff309750e4d336e21.png

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I love the 338 wheel. It's an interesting take on the classic torque thrust. Ridler makes some beautiful wheels too. The wheel fitment issues on Riv's are the only really disappointing thing about the car. It seems to take some work to get different wheels on them. The wheels I like seem to be only in Chevy 5x4.75 and Ford 5x4.5. I've been looking for some 3/4" (20mm) thick spacers to convert the bolt pattern. That should still fit some 15x7 wheels, without having rubbing issues. I think.

 

I've researched into changing the bolt pattern, but the rearend gets expensive, because it requires custom made axles, and I'm not sure what for the rear disc rotors.

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My car had wheel spacers/adapters to 4.75 bolt pattern when I got it. The only thing about that is then you have to put the offset at what I consider to be undesirable. It looked like I had rims off a front wheel drive on it, which they were....hideous.

IMG_20161109_172350_703.jpg

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I'm really curious about those spacers. Do you know how thick they were? Do you know how wide, and what the back spacing is on those old wheels? I agree.... they're... well, not good looking. But they seem to fit into the fenders well.

 

Stock Riv wheels were 15x6, with a 3 3/8 back spacing. The wheels I want are 15x7 with a 4" back space. I'll have to push them out a bit to get them to clear the drums. I found a place that will make billet spacers any thickness, I'm thinking 3/4" thick, and i'll get short studs so they don't stick out past the spacers. That should get the wheel away from the drum, but still have it tucked under the fender a bit.

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On ‎2‎/‎4‎/‎2017 at 10:36 PM, patrickaturner said:

Update on this thread: I was finally able to get all four wheels on the car. Here's what I ended up doing:

 

1. Removed stock front drum break setup and installed a Wilwood disc break kit (https://www.opgi.com/riviera/1963/brake-systems/disc-brakes/BR03001/)

...

 

 

Was there any issues with installing the Wilwood brakes? I really like them but I'm concerned about the rotor and caliper, if they're an off the shelf piece or I can only get it from Wilwood.

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6 hours ago, jsgun said:

I'm really curious about those spacers. Do you know how thick they were? Do you know how wide, and what the back spacing is on those old wheels? I agree.... they're... well, not good looking. But they seem to fit into the fenders well.

 

Stock Riv wheels were 15x6, with a 3 3/8 back spacing. The wheels I want are 15x7 with a 4" back space. I'll have to push them out a bit to get them to clear the drums. I found a place that will make billet spacers any thickness, I'm thinking 3/4" thick, and i'll get short studs so they don't stick out past the spacers. That should get the wheel away from the drum, but still have it tucked under the fender a bit.

I believe they were 3/4", but not 100% sure. To be honest was just happy to get the fugly things off of it.......

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On ‎2‎/‎9‎/‎2017 at 7:22 PM, Black River said:

Thanks, and you too.  Mine is stock drums all the way around.  I run Ridlers on pretty much all my cars.  Fit great.  These are 20x10.5s on back and 20x8s on front.

Lucas

Amazing fit for a drum car. Nice

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Reviving this thread because I’m thinking of getting a set of Ridler wheels for my 64. I am thinking of a staggered setup with 18s in the front and 20s in the rear.

 

Anyone have experience with that setup? Offset ideas?!

 

(FYI stock drum brakes on my car)

4D48A565-3458-47B0-A2F1-C0CBE8E6B355.jpeg

Edited by bodayguy (see edit history)

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The diameter is no problem.  You have to get the width, offset, back spacing and tire sizecorrect to make it work. This is where you take the car to a wheel shop where they can put a tool that can be adjusted to show you what wheels with different dimensions along with different tire sizes will give you in your wheel wells.

 

Wheels-10.jpg.ba41f2e5ae6189372aa702ed93af84e2.jpg

 

Different wires represent different tire sizes.  The tool can be adjusted for wheel diameter, width, offset, and back spacing.  Wheels come in many different widths and backspacing for 20 inch wheels and probably the same for 18 inch ones as well.  It's not a one size fits all like your socks.  Do it right and do it once.

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http://tire-size-calculator.info/

 

I found that site some time ago. It allowed me to compare the stock wheel dimensions to the wheels I wanted. My reasoning is that if it's not too far from dimensionally stock, it should fit.

 

http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Offset-to-Backspace.html

 

How to figure the difference between offset and backspace

Edited by jsgun (see edit history)

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I looked at a set of 19 X 9 and 10 wheels yesterday. They were still attached to the V12 BMW and I think it will look real nice next to my Riviera with the stock wheels. The clearance it the garage is just right.

 

I still have these if anyone likes the old school Cragar SS look:

Bernie

Edited by 60FlatTop (see edit history)

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I have a 63 Riviera with original drum brakes and considering the Riddler 695, 18x8 rims with 235,55,18 tires for a total height of 28.2”. I believe the original tires were 225,75,15 with a height of 28.3”. Based upon what I’m reading here I should be good with this tire and wheel combo without spacers. True?

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I am going to say no, not without spacers. Overall height is OK, but the 63 has the larger center hubs. From what I can find, the center bore diameter on this wheel is 83.82mm, or 3 5/16". I think the larger 63 center hub is 3 3/8 or 3 7/16". You need to check. Front or rear, they are the same. The center bore of the wheel must clear the outside of the hub that sticks out past the face of the drum to seat properly. If the hub is too large, you will need a 1/4" spacer to allow the wheels to seat properly.

Also don't forget lug studs on the drivers side of a 63 are left hand thread. Have to check lug nut availability or change the studs.

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IF you're buying them new, and IF you're buying directly from the manufacturer, you might be able to have them mill the wheels with the hub clearance you need.  Wouldn't hurt to contact them.   

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On 6/21/2018 at 4:51 PM, steelman said:

I am going to say no, not without spacers. Overall height is OK, but the 63 has the larger center hubs. From what I can find, the center bore diameter on this wheel is 83.82mm, or 3 5/16". I think the larger 63 center hub is 3 3/8 or 3 7/16". You need to check. Front or rear, they are the same. The center bore of the wheel must clear the outside of the hub that sticks out past the face of the drum to seat properly. If the hub is too large, you will need a 1/4" spacer to allow the wheels to seat properly.

Also don't forget lug studs on the drivers side of a 63 are left hand thread. Have to check lug nut availability or change the studs.

@steelman I found 2 Ridler 695 on Craigslist and the guy let me try them out. They are 18x9.5 with 4.5 back space. The center bore is 3 3/8 and seemed to fit over the 63 drum brake hub. I assume I would be good to go with those for the back. Just need to find some left hand thread lugs and the right tires.

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14 minutes ago, Bato65 said:

@steelman I found 2 Ridler 695 on Craigslist and the guy let me try them out. They are 18x9.5 with 4.5 back space. The center bore is 3 3/8 and seemed to fit over the 63 drum brake hub. I assume I would be good to go with those for the back. Just need to find some left hand thread lugs and the right tires.

Left hand lug nuts are pretty common.  Many early Chrysler products used them.  Check JEGS or Summit Racing to see what they have.  You need 1/2 by 20 threads.  4.5 inch back spacing is going to put the inside of the wheel and tire pretty close to the chassis and suspension. Make sure you check the steering with the tires mounted and the car is sitting on the ground, not on a rack.  Go over a curb or two at full lock to check for rub.  I had 225/70R15 tires on factory 6" rims with the factory back spacing on my 63 and my tires rubbed the frame at full lock.

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17 minutes ago, RivNut said:

Left hand lug nuts are pretty common.  Many early Chrysler products used them.  Check JEGS or Summit Racing to see what they have.  You need 1/2 by 20 threads.  4.5 inch back spacing is going to put the inside of the wheel and tire pretty close to the chassis and suspension. Make sure you check the steering with the tires mounted and the car is sitting on the ground, not on a rack.  Go over a curb or two at full lock to check for rub.  I had 225/70R15 tires on factory 6" rims with the factory back spacing on my 63 and my tires rubbed the frame at full lock.

@RivNutThanks. I’m hoping I can get away with the 4.5 back spacing on the back, since I buoghtbthose rims. What back spacing would you recommend for the front?

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51 minutes ago, Bato65 said:

@RivNutThanks. I’m hoping I can get away with the 4.5 back spacing on the back, since I buoghtbthose rims. What back spacing would you recommend for the front?

It depends on the wheel design.  You'll just have to do a trial fitting.  Really difficult to buy wheels that fit if you're trying to find stuff on Craigslist.  

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