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1991 Reatta Restoration Progress


Mr. Anderson

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Hello everyone! I haven't posted much of late due to college, but I have slowly been making progress on my 1991 coupe.

Here is a list of what I have done to date...

  • I have rebuilt both headlight motors.
  • I have replaced the horn buttons with good used working ones.
  • I have replaced the radio with a good used working one.
  • I have found the front windshield metal piece and will be putting it on after I put the gaskets back on.
  • I put a new battery in it.
  • I have reconnected the tail lights. They were unhooked for some reason, and work just fine.
  • I have replaced the bad oxygen sensor.

I need to get tires on it, I have to fix the odometer error, I need to replace the power antenna, and I need to fix the headliner, just to name a few.

I still have a big list of things to repair, but I'm really excited about this car! :D

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Here are a few pictures...

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First, the full shot of the driver's side with the new horn buttons.

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Next, the lovely condition of my center caps. Yes, both are original to the car. I have all four originals...two of them look like the right one, two are like the left one.

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Finally, the 'new' radio. I don't think it is a reatta original one, but it has the five band EQ, so I'm not too upset, lol.

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Nice work thus far. The center caps can be refinished, just prep and paint the plastic. The radio is the correct type for a 90/91 Reatta, 5 band EQ with casette deck as was factory installed.

Looks like you are on the way to a decent car. Keep us apprised of your progress.

KDirk

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Thanks KDirk!

I will eventually be re-finishing the wheels and center caps, but the two center caps that look awful also have broken tabs in the back. I don't know if I can save them, but I know that finding these center caps in any condition are very hard to do.

I also have a strange issue where the fog lights don't work from the switch. The switch on the console does nothing, but I can get the fog lights to work when I trip the anti-theft alarm. I've swapped the relays out for them and got no change. I'm leaning towards a bad switch, relay, or bad wiring.

Also, I need a new power antenna. The original one was broken and not working. Will a universal one work in this car?

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Guest Mc_Reatta

You can check out the fog light switch by using diagnostics. It's not your relay or wiring between it and the lamps as the anti-theft system uses them to turn the lamps on, so those are working.

Go into diagnostics and enter BCM Input mode. See ROJ for instructions on 91 diagnostics if you don't know how. Call up BI83 and operate switch. Display should toggle between HI and LOW if it's working. Tough failure if that is the problem as those switches are literally worth their weight in gold it seems. Can probably be repaired though by someone who knows how. Think Jim used to offer this service. Might check with him if he still repairs them.

Edited by Mc_Reatta (see edit history)
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Guest PontiacDude210

Nice work so far :) I really like the 91s, I looked at one a little while back. Been there done that with college, it's a hassle rebuilding a car on a school schedule and budget. Looks like it's going well though. I would advise to watch the taillights, generally if something is unhooked there is a reason. Found that out the hard way.

I'm impressed by your collection, by the way. 2 Reattas and a Regal, you must be a happy guy. I'm a bit of a closet Regal fan, and I actually learned to drive in a teal 95 custom.

Keep us updated on your progress, and have fun.

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I'm impressed by your collection, by the way. 2 Reattas and a Regal, you must be a happy guy. I'm a bit of a closet Regal fan, and I actually learned to drive in a teal 95 custom.

Thanks! :) I actually have a few more around the house. My daily driver is a 1990 Lesabre, my Fiancé drives a 2001 Century, and my grandparents drive a 2014 Regal, so there's plenty of Buicks around here. I'm actually restoring the 91 for our wedding in June. The 95 has seen better days, and is currently sitting dead with a bad transmission, but it was a fun car for the small amount of time that I drove it around.

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Guest PontiacDude210

Funny coincidence, I'm working on getting my 90 Sunroof coupe ready for August, when my fiancee and I are getting married. The 2 seater is the perfect "getaway car."

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  • 1 month later...

Hello everyone, I have some more progress to report!

- I bought a new replacement fog light switch. Only cost me $16 with shipping from Rock Auto. Luckily, I bought the last one they had. :)

- I bought a used working power antenna and installed it. Thanks to my3buicks (Keith) for the part!

- After wrestling with the odometer and the BCM, I found that the EEPROM I had sent off to be programmed with the correct mileage was cutting data communications with the car. Thankfully, the used BCM I bought off of eBay had both chips in it, so I could mix and match to see what happened. Prospeedo agreed to fix the EEPROM with no cost to me.

- I cleaned out the 10-year buildup of crap from the console area, and repaired a crack in the headlight switch.

- I have 4 brand new Michelin tires waiting to be installed. They are 90,000 mile warrantied and should last for a long time.

A problem that I have is a constantly blown fuse #2. I guess I am pulling the driver's seat to repair splices with that.

I also have an issue with the passenger seat where not all of the directions work. I am guessing that the switch is to blame here.

More to come soon! :D

(New fog light switch!)

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  • 1 month later...

More progress and more on the way!! :D

- Finally fixed the odometer ERROR. The problem was a bad EEPROM/not properly programmed EEPROM. But it's FINALLY fixed and over with, so now I can fix more things!

- New tires will be installed on Tuesday. They are Michelins with a 90,000 mile warranty. They will probably crack from age before the tread wears out.

- I will be putting a new headliner in here in a few weeks. It is annoying to be working in the car and have the headliner dragging across your head, lol.

- Also, I accidentally broke one of the tiny screws in the headlight motor, and nothing I have can remove what is left of the tiny screw. Tiny setback, but it isn't a huge deal. So, if anyone has an extra passenger side headlight motor that needs a rebuild, please let me know. :)

- I'm still working on fixing the fuse #2 problem. I will be repairing ALL splices under both seats after I do the headliner job.

Fun things coming up for this car. Prep for paint starts in a month and a half! :D

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Guest PontiacDude210

I've got a line on a junkyard Reatta if you can't find a headlight motor. I feel like the folks here should be able to get you a good one cheaper though. Good to see updates from you again. I'm glad you're making progress.

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- Also, I accidentally broke one of the tiny screws in the headlight motor, and nothing I have can remove what is left of the tiny screw. Tiny setback, but it isn't a huge deal. So, if anyone has an extra passenger side headlight motor that needs a rebuild, please let me know. :)

If I remember correctly Barney Eaton has offered to fix broken headlight motor screws in the past. Maybe he can do it for you.
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Thought I should post an update before the night was out. :)

- Four new Michelin tires with 90,000 mile warranty are on, and boy are they an improvement!! :D

- Headliner will be taken care of in the next few weeks.

- Many/all electrical repairs will be done by next week. I have the whole week off of school, and I intend on making some good progress while I have the time.

New Issues:

Code 26 QDM fault occurred, and that is being addressed in another thread.

A/C works, but only blows out of the defrost vents. I will be looking at that in a week, and I am starting with the arm that connects to the programmer.

Fog lights still don't work after the new switch was installed. Looks like I will be having fun in some wiring soon. :P

I have no back-up lights. Nor sure if bad bulbs or wiring problem, but I will check next week.

Engine runs GREAT!! :D But, it smells a little bit rich to me. O2 sensor has been replaced, so could be regulator or injector(s). I will address it next week with a tune-up.

May need a lower radiator hose. I noticed a small coolant leak on the trailer going to get the tires today. Again, a problem for next week.

I must say, I absolutely love this car, and am loving the reatta experience!! :D More to come later!!

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First update of my break week!

Yesterday's task was removing the driver's side seat, carpet, and fixing splices. At the end of the evening, ALL splices were redone, whether they looked like they needed it or not. :P

Today's task was to fix (eliminate) the stripped screw problem in the passenger headlight motor and reassemble. It was fairly straightforward, and it made me remember how much fun it was to put a headlight assembly back in, lol. :P

Tomorrow's task is to remove the passenger's side seat, carpet, and fix the splices in there. I am still blowing fuse #2 as soon as power is given to the car, so I am hoping that these passenger seat splices will fix this problem.

Also, still no working fog lights... :confused:

Pictures:

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Time for tonight's update:

Today's task was the passenger side splices. They were all pretty corroded, so I figured that I found the problem. After about a few hours of work, I had them all fixed.

I put everything back and then gave the car power, and found that everything lit up perfectly and it stopped blowing the fuse #2. :D

Next on the list: Carpet cleaning and fluid changes. It's gonna get really messy here soon, lol. :P

Also, thanks for all the comments! This is hard work, but it is a lot of fun! I love these cars! :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

So, after TWO weeks worth of work...

- All wire splices have been replaced on both sides. Even if they looked good and clean, they were replaced.

- The carpet has been cleaned pretty thoroughly. There is a oil spot on the rear shelf that is being stubborn, but it is coming out slowly.

- I have narrowed down the fuse problem to the passenger door area. The fuse will not blow when the driver's door is open, but will instantly blow if the passenger door is opened. I'm farther along than I was, but still unsure where to go now.

- The 'Door Ajar' light in drive has been traced to a short in the driver's side door jamb switch circuit. The switch was tested and it works just fine.

- I still have a code 26, and have very poor drivability. The transmission doesn't act like it wants to shift right, and I'm betting that the issue is in the solenoids. It was shifting just fine before it sat for another 6 months.

- Still no fog lights. Must be a wiring issue.

More to come later!! :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update for the day:

-I have resolved the fuse #2 issue, or I should say that it has resolved itself. There was a fault in the mirror circuit, but it has gone away after unplugging and cleaning everything. I guess I got lucky, lol.

-I got the opportunity to pull the door panel off to check wires. Fun (not). It did give me a chance to properly lubricate everything that moved in there though.

-Still am dealing with a code 26 QDM Fault and very poor drivability. Still guessing at a transmission solenoid issue, as I think that I am starting in 2nd gear when I shift to D4. The code sets quickly as current every time I pull out of park. I really need a Tech-1 Scanner to work on this stuff...

-Still no fog lights...

Everything is coming along quickly though! Everything will be reassembled soon, but only for a little while. After the interior is put back together, work begins in the engine bay. :)

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Got the car back with a wonderful new headliner!! :D The pictures I took are crap just because it is dark, but it is an absolute color match, and it looks like it was brand new from the factory! :) Needless to say, I am very pleased with the result! :)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]299142[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]299143[/ATTACH]

What was the cost to replace/refurbish the headliner? Was it a specialty shop?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here's another update:

After fooling with a strange locks disorder for weeks, I finally got the problem resolved. It was a wiring issue that I had messed up on while fixing the under-seat splices. In tracing this problem, I have completely torn apart the interior and under the dash. I might end up replacing things under there while I have the chance.

Still a bunch of stuff to do, but I have time now that there's no school for the summer! :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Time for another update, and on a very neat forum update too!

 

I have been working inside the door panels to lubricate up everything that moves, and I am pretty sure that everything is well lubed now. The locks and passenger window are working smoothly now!

 

Now, the driver window is a different story. I knew previously that the window had issues, but I discovered that there was some binding in the track on the vent window. I have a picture of what I seated back into place below, but the quality isn't too good.

 

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All that I know about it is that it is a rubber piece that holds the window in the track of the vent window. I set it back into place with some JB Weld and have it pressed to the window in a clamp, so hopefully that will solve the issue. Other than that, the window motor and regulator are working perfectly.

 

I have also taken to replacing all the speakers in the car while I am in the doors. The original rear speakers were completely shot, and I figured that I ought to go ahead and get them done while I could. I am replacing the factory originals with Sony xplod speakers. I would have gone with something like the Infinity Kappas that have been mentioned many times on here before, but I had these speakers sitting on my shelf from when I replaced the speakers in my LeSabre. They are great quality speakers that sound pretty good, so no complaints about them.  :)

 

I will soon be venturing under the hood to fix any issues there, i.e. the transmission and fog lights, as well as a complete fluid change for everything. Many more fun adventures to come soon!  :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another update:

I have the driver's window working better than before, but I believe that the window motor is on its way out, so I have put everything in the interior back together, and will simply avoid any drive through until I fix it. :)

The transmission issues have resolved themselves thankfully! I think that the car sitting as long as it did caused problems with the connections.

So at this point, the interior and most of the electrical finished! :) I will be setting up to begin fluid changes here in the next week or so. I am happy to say that I am over halfway done with the restoration! :)

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  • 1 month later...

Time for another update. I've been fairly busy, so here goes:

 

I have resolved the fog light issue. The BCM did not have the proper option content numbers programmed and therefor did not believe that it had fog lights to turn on. Thanks to KDirk for the correct numbers.

 

I still have the A/C problem of only blowing out the defrost vents. Not entirely sure where to go there as replacing some damaged vacuum lines did not help. But, the vacuum line repair seemed to help the car run a little better through, so not all bad there.

 

This morning I have replaced all of the bulbs on the car that were burnt out or not working. After many trips to find the highly elusive 890 bulbs, (found at only one store in the whole county!) I finally have all of the lights working!  :)

 

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Now, I am slowly getting all of the parts in to do the oil and transmission fluid change, as well as a coolant flush. More to come later!  :D

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Today was a rain-filled work day. I have begun to put the weatherstripping back on the windshield. I am also cleaning out the windshield washer reservoir filter and preparing for a coolant flush in the next couple of days. I also got a new transmission filter from amazon and will be doing a flush and filter change whenever the weather clears up.

We're moving right along with this one. If I'm lucky, it will be ready to paint before the end of Summer! :) Stay tuned for more!

 

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Brett,

What kind of rubber strip are you using and from where did you purchase it? I take it you are replacing the encapsulation molding around the edge of the windshield? This has been an ongoing problem for many of us having good glass with marginal rubber edging, and if you are replacing it I'm curious to see what material you are using. As well, what kind of adhesive is being used? Finally, I'm curious to see pictures, especially of the miter cuts at the corners.

KDirk

Edited by KDirk (see edit history)
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  • 5 weeks later...

Time for an update again.

 

Things got very busy over the last few weeks, so I had to put finishing the weatherstripping on the waitlist for a bit while I finished everything else. But over the last two days, I have accomplished a few things.

 

1) I have replaced the dreaded door ajar switch in the driver's door. It took me three hours to do it, but I finally got the stupid thing in place and fixed the constant "door ajar" warning on the IPC.

 

2) The driver's side window was not lined up properly in the regulator and was binding while going up or down. Through some careful maneuvering and cleaning of the window tracks, and probably some luck along the way, I have the window fairly well aligned with everything in the door and all is well.

 

3) I have repaired the weatherstripping around the front windshield. In a box in the trunk, I found that I had all of the pieces for a complete set of weatherstripping. I had already placed the side pieces in (the ones between the vent glass and windshield) so the large top and side covering was next. After I put the weatherstripping in, I had the aluminum cover for the bottom of the windshield installed (which I had already stripped and painted a flat black.)

 

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There was already a universal molding over the top of the windshield, so the long piece was placed in front and on top of the new molding. It was able to fit perfectly and covered any exposed seams created from the rest of the weatherstripping pieces. The adhesive of choice was 3M Quick Drying Weatherstripping Adhesive. I also used some clear caulk to fill in certain places (ex. where the long weatherstripping meets at a triangle at the corners of the windshield.) The 3M stuff is probably the best out there. It is very sticky and keeps everything right where you need it.

 

The universal stuff that is on the top of the windshield is probably this:

Flexline Windshield Auto Glass Universal Molding Flexible Trim Rubber 19mm 15 FT UM1913BR

I had a few pieces that I was originally going to use to replicate the original look, but had no need to use them in the end since I had the originals.

 

4) The last thing I did was reassemble the windshield wiper arms and wipers. I was able to put everything on just fine, but the arms would not keep the wipers in contact with the windshield. My solution was to bend the arms just right to where everything lined up right. I used a table vice and some old paint stirrers to put leverage on the aluminum pieces. After everything was bent back into place, the wipers made contact through the entire cycle and everything works great!  :D

 

Next will be the remainder of fluid changes and then it is on to a new paint job!  :D

 

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Flushed the radiator, coolant, and the engine on Tuesday. Everything went well until I went to turn on the heater and never got any hot air through the vents. Checked the HVAC control arm and found that it was ok. I was thinking "well crap." I took the heater hoses lose from the engine and flushed the heater core out. You would not believe how nasty the water was on that first flush. I repeated this several times until I only got clean water. I reconnected everything, filled up the radiator with brand new 50/50 coolant, 'burped' all of the air out of the system, and all is well in the world.  :)

 

Now almost everything is finished with the car! I need to have it painted and fix the A/C so that it blows from something other than the defrost vent. I'm so excited for this car, and I never thought I would have got this far with it!! I can't wait to have it completed!!  :D  :D

 

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Now almost everything is finished with the car! I need to have it painted and fix the A/C so that it blows from something other than the defrost vent.

 

Brett,

 

You've probably heard the saying "Read'em and weep."

Well... Read the posts in this link .

There are six pages but it will be time well spent.

If you weep, believe me when I tell you no one will think less of you. Especially me.

 

John F.

Edited by Machiner 55 (see edit history)
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Brett,

 

You've probably heard the saying "Read'em and weep."

Well... Read the posts in this link .

There are six pages but it will be time well spent.

If you weep, believe me when I tell you no one will think less of you. Especially me.

 

John F.

 

John, I have been looking at that post for some time, hoping that the solution was something simple. Unfortunately, that is not the case (as nothing really is with these cars, lol.) I will probably tackle this after the car gets painted, or if I ever get a free day or two to take this task on.

 

I have to ask, is it difficult to get those pieces cut out or can they be removed for the repair and then reinstalled?

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I have to ask, is it difficult to get those pieces cut out or can they be removed for the repair and then reinstalled?

 

Brett,

 

Yes and no.

The plastic piece I cut out was a piece of cake because I used one ot those high-speed ossillating tools. If you or anyone else does this , you need to take care to avoid hitting the wire bundles behind the plastic being removed. As careful as I was, I stil managed to cut into three of the wires which needed spliced together again. I used crimp on connectors becacuse it's what I had on hand and the wires were such that I could pull very little slack from them so as to move them more out in the open so to work on them easier. Just don't cut them and it'll be on less thing you've got to do when it comes time to reassemble everything. (also, I hope you've disconnected the battery from the system before starting this little project. If you haven't, do it now.

The metal bracket was a bit more involved in it's removal. I have to say here that I can't say that the vertical component of the bracket assembly absolutely needed to be removed to gain access or to give necessary room to work. It seemed like a good idea at the time but I can't remember if it needed to be done. I't may have been possible to just bend it out of the way and that might have been good enough. 

I took it out anyway and it seemed to work out OK that way too. It's just that the vertical component is spot welded to the horizontal section which remains in place. There are three small spot welds that hold it on and I used an air chistle to break through them. The attached photos show where it was and how it came out. You will notice in one of the pics that there's what looks like a screw holding the horizontal piece to the vertical section.

That was how I put them back together at reassembly. If I were to do it this way again, I would have drilled the hole for the screw(s) prior to breaking the welds so that during reassembly, the parts would have gone back together exactly as they were before I started tearing into it. As it is, I was able to get it close but ther was some trial and error fitting it in the proper place which took time and agravation to get it right. Simpley drilling the hole first would have eliminated the guess work.

I hope this answeres your question. Everything goes back together the way it came out except a screw was used instead of a weld on the metal bracket. The plastic section went back in without any attempt to stitch the cut seam back together. There  were enough original screws and their placement made for the piece to be held secure without any type of glueing or heat stiching the cut seam.

 

I started this project on Monday morning of this week and finished late Friday evening.  I was on vacation from work and didn't have anything major call me away from the project. Just piddley things like running the usual errands, stopping for leasurly lunch, Bathroom and dinner breaks. Sometimes I'd come in and check out the Forums or just sit and think about how I was going to proceed onto the next step. Since I'd never replaced one of these arms before and it seemed that of those who had did it by removing the entire dash assembly. I was blazing a new trail into uncharted territory and waned to try to do it in such a way that the path could be followed again as a viable option to pulling the dash. Let me say this... pulling the dash out would have made things easier in that once one had gotten to the arm, all of the work from there on out would have been done with ease of access and performed from a more comfortable sitting position. The time to do the job may have been comparible, although Im not too sure by how much. If I were to do it again it would have gone much faster because I know now what does and doesn't need to be removed and I wouldn't have taken any of the items off that were required to be removed if one were in fact removing the dash. Grill vents and dashpanel as well as glove box etc.

The one major consideration I think everyone needs to consider is the brittle nature of these 25 year old plastic dashboards. If one were to start out with one in good to perfect condition, one would have to think long and hard as to whether to perform this job at all if the dash has to come out or consider an alternative method to removing the dash.

Well, the alternative method worked for me but I've got over 4 decades of wrenching behind me and a fairly well equiped garage to work in as well as a fairly good assortment of tools I've come across over the years. Especially the odd and unusual items that aren't usually kept in the home Mechanics toolbox. The kind of thing that a guy like myself will run across while walking the tool isle. You know... the item that grabs your attention, you handle it for a bit and put it back in the bin because you think to yourself... "naw, I'll never need that..." or "I can't see paying that for something that's gonna just sit on the shelf collecting dust...."

Well... I buy those things and sometimes when the situation arises that makes me think "Hey, I have just the tool for that!" Then the search is on to find where the H*ll i put the D*mned thing.

Point being that, first and formost, I'll tackle some project just for the challenge of if. The other being that I probably have a tool stashed around somewhere that 'll finally be able to justify having bought the sucker.

 

So now, everyone out there has an option as to how to tackle the project. There is a third one that hasn't been discussed fully. That would be just saying to H*ll with thearing up the dash and doing all that crawling around and just fashion a stick that can be jammed into the center dash vent to push the door into the position that allows the air flow to vent through the Dash vents instead of the Defroster vents. Need to defrost the windshield? Just pull out the stick!. Might could even glue a magnet to the end of the stick to make sure the door moves the way it should.  ANyway...

 

It's getting late again and it's back to Work tomorrow @ six am. Gotta go get some rest.

I'll try to compose a general set of steps involved in performing this task.

And get some pictures in orde so that I don't have to type so many words. Maykes me Brame herts.

I'll post them over at the ROJ where the Lions share of this thread already exists.

 

John F.

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Edited by Machiner 55 (see edit history)
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Brett,

 

... There is a third one that hasn't been discussed fully. That would be just saying to H*ll with thearing up the dash and doing all that crawling around and just fashion a stick that can be jammed into the center dash vent to push the door into the position that allows the air flow to vent through the Dash vents instead of the Defroster vents. Need to defrost the windshield? Just pull out the stick!. Might could even glue a magnet to the end of the stick to make sure the door moves the way it should. 

I believe something similar to this would be the best option for me. 70-80% of my driving is done on back roads at less that 55 mph with the windows down and no AC. I can't remember the last time I needed to use the defroster.. I hope I never have to use either option. :)

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