unlead gas

[Guest]

I am useing unlead gas in a 1952 Studebaker V-8. I add the lead additive but does not seem to work as well as needed. Car has 54,000 miles and engine does not use any oil.Is there any way I can improve valve lubrication other than what I am doing?What do you use? I am hoping I can get by without changing the valves to unleaded gas requirements.

[Guest]

Let me begin with a disclaimer. I have no background as an automotive or fuels engineer.<P>That being said, let me give my personal evaluation based on my correspondence with the chief engineer [in 1984] for engines, of one of the big three automobile companies. This exchange of correspondence took place while I was AACA Vice President of Technical Matters during the phase out period for lead in gasoline.<P>Basically, the concern is out of proportion to the problem. In older, low compression engine cars, used as we do in the HOBBY, the problem doesn't really exist.<P>Where the problem arises is in the era of muscle cars and cars with high compression engines 10 to 1 and the like. Add air conditioning, highway driving at speeds around 80, temperatures in the 90's and you are inviting trouble.<P>Does a '52 Stude fall in that category?<P>Final thought. How many of you have actually had a problem with valve seat precession on a low compression engine or known someone who has? Not stories, but fact. I haven't. How about you Rick? ~ hvs<BR>

[Rick Hoover]

Not a single one, Howard. I just wish I had investments in hardened seats when this all came about. That's another suject. In most cases, you are correct on the higher compression cars. <BR>Rick

[Guest]

If the car has 54,000 miles and uses no oil, then what is the worry? Are you short on compression, running rough, noisy lifters, or what?<P>Model A users don't use leaded gas at all these days, due to lower compression of engines used. Of course, a '50's car is a bit different, but adding the lead substitute should surfice, if you feel you have to do it in order to set your mind at ease. A small amount of Marvel Mystery oil placed directly into the gas tank should help in giving the lubrication a bit of a boost at the valves, but some swear by it and others think it is just an old wife's tale. <P>How many miles are you expecting of the engine? I mean, you are asking about improving lubrication, but not saying what actually is wrong with the engine as is. Not burning oil is pretty good indicatior that the lubrication is apt to the job, in my humble opinion. What I mean by that, is that if you can't determine any significant wear without going in and actually grinding the valves and replacing worn parts; i.e. valve seats, then why worry? Unless the car is an absolute daily driver, your investment is not likely to be worth the cost. Of course, that is just my opinon and not a scientific one at that. However, I'll bet the valves and seaats outlast yourself in longivity just the way they are, as long as routine maintenance is adhered to with the car.<P>Before investing in hardened seats or changing the valves in any manner, check with the Studebaker club at this same site for their member's views. It may not be necessary at all, or you may get supportive advice to guide you a bit better. <P><BR> <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by LaFayette:<BR><B>I am useing unlead gas in a 1952 Studebaker V-8. I add the lead additive but does not seem to work as well as needed. Car has 54,000 miles and engine does not use any oil.Is there any way I can improve valve lubrication other than what I am doing?What do you use? I am hoping I can get by without changing the valves to unleaded gas requirements.</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>[This message has been edited by coupe1942 (edited 12-03-2000).]<p>[This message has been edited by coupe1942 (edited 12-04-2000).]

[Guest]

Here is some more info. I had 3 bent push rods that I replaced. It seems that the valves are sticking closed and open at different times. Sometimes it runs really smooth and then at other times it runs rough.We drove 60 miles recently at 65MPH and when we returned it was running very rough. Have not started it since.

[The Old Guy]

I have a 40 Buick that has logged over 90,000 miles since this no lead thing started,and have used no additives. the car still runs great. I also had a 57 Buick that I used to haul a 17 foot Airstream all over the country and when I sold it with 60,000 miles on the engine ,it was still doing well. I have been told that Buick used a better grade of cast iron in their blocks ,but I can't believe you will hurt an engine with no-lead unless you are REALLY abusing it.

[Guest]

LaFayette ~ I have two thoughts on your problem.<BR>1. Old lousy gummy gas. I believe that is what bent a couple of pushrods in our '51 Chev. some years back.<BR>2. Has your gas tank been sealed with sealer?<BR>If yes, and it was done many years ago before they made the stuff alcohol resistant, and you have gotten gasahol, that may be the cause. That happened to us in our Model A and created a terrible mess. It worked its way into the carb. and who knows where it might have gone had it not completely blocked the fuel line and prevented the car from starting. As it was, the inside if the carb was sort of glued together. In 1987 this happened to a friend with a 20's Lincoln and it got all the way to the valves.<P>Again as before, this is only based on personal experience, NO engineering training and questionable mechanical skills. hvs<p>[This message has been edited by hvs (edited 12-04-2000).]

[Guest]

Actually, I don't agree that gunky gas is the causitive agent alone in any bent pushrods. It may find it's way through the fuel system, but would not likely end up under a pushrod in my opinion. The stress on an engine may resultingly cause something to turn loose and the pushrods wear, but most pushrods were not fragile in the '50's model cars. They were actually pretty hearty in the old babbit engines and such.<P>Now, creamy and gooey oil sludge is a different matter. Water or antifreeze into the oil mix can cause some pretty nasty combinations that can result in stress in<BR>the engine and all sorts of whackydoodle events. Still, loose tappets are more common for excessive play and ultimately bending push rods. They can even be overtightened and the result is a bent push rod as well.<P>What confuses me is that you originally stated that the engine does not use oil. With 3 bent push rods, I am a bit surprised at hearing that.<P>Now, I have seen someone remove a pushrod and simply replace it into the wrong hole before. The wear is uneven on the new push rod and can be a mess for someone.<P>Personally, I'd forget the hardened seats you originally asked about, but now woul dbe an excellent time to do it if you really insisted. I'd be looking into the problem with the push rods fer sure. Did you actually replace them or just notice they were bent and put them back? I would not run the engine with bent push rods, but would concentrate in finding out what is the real cause. May be in for a valve job or more.<P>Good luck with her,<BR>Huey <P><BR> <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by LaFayette:<BR><B>Here is some more info. I had 3 bent push rods that I replaced. It seems that the valves are sticking closed and open at different times. Sometimes it runs really smooth and then at other times it runs rough.We drove 60 miles recently at 65MPH and when we returned it was running very rough. Have not started it since.</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>

[Guest]

Running unleaded gas only causes the valve seats to recede into the head. This is more pronounced when running tall gears 3:55 up and lots of highway driving. Some head castings may be softer than others. There is no proof of valves sticking from use of unleaded gas. Valve lube comes from oil down the guides. My last car ran 353,000 miles on unleaded gas. (63 Pontiac Cat SW)<BR>The car had a 3:08 rear with a 3-speed manual with Overdrive 2:16 rear ratio. The car was totaled in an accident. Engine upon tear down showed minimal valve seat wear.<P>------------------<BR>Gatomon

[Guest]

Huey ~~ I cannot believe with your vast experience and extensive knowledge on all subjects automotive that you can be so certain that gummy gas cannot cause or contribute to the problem stated above. My poor little ol' mechanic out here in the wilds of Wyoming was sure that was the cause, but then what could he know compared to someone with such vast knowledge. <P>But that's just my opinion.

[Tom Deering]

I just brought home a beautiful car that had not been run for nine years.<BR>The previous owner tried to start it before I picked it up. Start-up procedure included replacing the Fuel Pump, Overhauling Carburetor, and replacing FIVE bent intake push rods. You better believe that I am now a believer in the devastating effects of "Old Gasoline". <BR> Tom

[Guest]

Bent pushrods likely could have been caused from valve float. Weak valve springs could be the cause. Or the timing could have jumped. Timing chains show wear at about 50,000. My bet is the valve float. <P>------------------<BR>Gatomon

[steve@autorest.com]

Todays gas has a very short "shelf life" and therefore many times the causative agent in stuck valves and bent pushrods. The other source of this same problem is also related to lack of use, and that is the valve actually rusting into the guide. When either of these two happen, and you try to crank over the engine, something has to give. In a flathead engine, generally the cam will be able to push the valve open, but it will not shut again. In an overhead valve engine, the pushrod is usually the weakest link, and will bend if the valve is shut. If the valve is open, the pushrod can fall out of the rocker arm, and could possibly catch on something and also bend. I have also seen rocker arms bend, especially the the stamped steel ones that Packard used. Valve float is very unusual, and even if the springs were weak, would only occur at very high RPM, and not at start-up or normal drving speeds.

[Guest]

I believe the valves may be rusting in the head from ( stale gas? ,lack of use?,driveing over 55MPH recently. I had one push rod bent and out of the tappet adjuster.I check all while I had the valve covers off and found 2 more that were bent and replaced all three and with new tappet adjusters.All others went back in the same position. It ran fine for a while and now is running rough again. Thanks for the help. I will let you know what I find.

[Guest]

Did you add or get more gas after changing pushrods? How long did the car sit? I still don't think that the gas is the problem. If the gas was like varnish I would agree. But, you might have a mechanical problem. Pushrods generally bend when something binds or the clearence is too thight. <P>------------------<BR>Gatomon

[Guest]

Hope you are joking, as I didn't say I had any vast experience in automobiles, as best I recall. Vast space inbetween the ears, maybe, but experienced as best I can learn.<P>I believe I said I did not agree that gummy gas caused the initial problem, but did not say it did not become a contributor to the overall problem. Like any contaminant, it can indeed add it's own to the mix.<P> <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by hvs:<BR><B>Huey ~~ I cannot believe with your vast experience and extensive knowledge on all subjects automotive that you can be so certain that gummy gas cannot cause or contribute to the problem stated above. My poor little ol' mechanic out here in the wilds of Wyoming was sure that was the cause, but then what could he know compared to someone with such vast knowledge. <P>But that's just my opinion.</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P><p>[This message has been edited by coupe1942 (edited 12-06-2000).]

[Guest]

Sometimes it is difficult to read these postings correctly, simply because you can't view the inflection of a question being asked or a joke being made. Sometimes people read into the post, as I have recently done. In the above postings, I asked about the car not burning oil and yet having bent push rods. That was not meant to be a put down of the initial posted question, but simply asking for more input as to what the problem being asked about actually was; poor oil consumption and a need for better oil flow, new hardened valve seats, or something amis in the engine compartment?<P>I apologise for any hypersensitivity on my part in providing or recieving any posts on this board. It is fun in trying to be a problem solver, and each person's opinion is equally important in solving the jig saw puzzles frequently presented as problems here on the board.<P>If I say that I am not certain about gummy gas as a culprit, I am saying I don't have the same experience in that regard, but not that it can't be a causitive factor in the overall mix of what has happened with the car. Being opinionated, I'd suggest that it is not a root cause. However, others may disagree, and that ain't unhealthy at all.<P>Like to see what is found out in the final fix though. Weak springs or valve lash adjustments way off, etc.<P>Huey<P> <P><p>[This message has been edited by coupe1942 (edited 12-06-2000).]

[Guest]

Huey ~~ I had no idea you were from Texas. Your profile lists Owensboro, KY Where from in Texas? ~~ hvs

[Guest]

I'm from Texas and coup1942 seems to have taken offence about something. Insulting a person is not my style. I'm only trying to help. What you have observed is great and you are intitled to your opinion but if you have a problem Please take it off the board.<BR>I don't hide and would love to talk about it.<BR>LaFayette,<BR>Can you give us more information about the gas and car. <BR>How long has it sat before the problem?<BR>What additve were you using?<BR>Did you put any new gas in the car before bending the pushrods?<BR>Was the car Detonating?<P>Stale gas will make a car run like crap. Gas in the varnish stage will cause lots of problems. It will cause parts to stick. I have experienced it also. But from your explaination the car ran fine and had problems after running above 55 for a period of time. This still leads me to the asumption that there is another problem. This needs to be checked out.<P><BR>------------------<BR>Gatomon<p>[This message has been edited by Blackcat (edited 12-05-2000).]

[Guest]

I've been reading on here for sometime now and this one just made me want to join in.<BR>I just had this happen to a friends car. He had a 235 engine in a 54 Chevy do this and we found it to be varnished gasoline gumming up the valve stems. He doesn't drive it much and that gas sure went bad from sitting. He went to start it up and bent 4 pushrods. Pulled the head and had it all gone over, cleaned the tank and carb. Runs like a top now. Steve and HVS are right on the money with this I feel. I know of these two guys and THEY know what they're talking about. I've been at this business a long time and seen it before.<P>

[Guest]

No, previous posting was taken out of contex by me. My fault and not sender's. I think I got it corrected. Sure hope so.<P>Owensboro, Ky. is where I am presently stuck. Came from Vernon, Tx.<P>As I said, I think there is more to this story than gasoline products, but have to wait to see what the results from owner actually turn out to be. May be a good call and may not. Interesting to wait and see though.<P>As a tid bit, Motor Honey, RESTORE and some of the other additives can certainly add to a problem or compound it if there is old varnished gas still in the tank. Not that the additive products are not useful in some situations, but when added to an already gummed situation they do add to the messy mix. However, again, this info was not explained in the original posting and one can only guess til the info is provided.<P> <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Blackcat:<BR><B>I'm from Texas and coup1942 seems to have taken offence about something. Insulting a person is not my style. I'm only trying to help. What you have observed is great and you are intitled to your opinion but if you have a problem Please take it off the board.<BR>I don't hide and would love to talk about it.<BR>LaFayette,<BR>Can you give us more information about the gas and car. <BR>How long has it sat before the problem?<BR>What additve were you using?<BR>Did you put any new gas in the car before bending the pushrods?<BR>Was the car Detonating?<P>Stale gas will make a car run like crap. Gas in the varnish stage will cause lots of problems. It will cause parts to stick. I have experienced it also. But from your explaination the car ran fine and had problems after running above 55 for a period of time. This still leads me to the asumption that there is another problem. This needs to be checked out.<P></B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>

[Guest]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by coupe1942:<BR><B>No, previous posting was taken out of contex by me. My fault and not sender's. I think I got it corrected. Sure hope so. Ever step into a pile of something? Well, the objective is to not wallow in the stuff if you do. Reading something into a posted message, I stepped into something. I have tried to correct it so that I am not wallowing.<P>Owensboro, Ky. is where I am presently stuck. Came from Vernon, Tx.<P>As I said, I think there is more to this story than gasoline products, but have to wait to see what the results from owner actually turn out to be. May be a good call and may not. Interesting to wait and see though.<P>As a tid bit, Motor Honey, RESTORE and some of the other additives can certainly add to a problem or compound it if there is old varnished gas still in the tank. Not that the additive products are not useful in some situations, but when added to an already gummed situation they do add to the messy mix. However, again, this info was not explained in the original posting and one can only guess til the info is provided.<P>Now, as to 235 engines, which I have run through in a pretty fine manner in my life, they will run forever under most conditions, being essentially a low compression engine. Not so of the old 216 engines. They require a bit more care in some regards. Ever see one develop air conditioning in the motor when a rod shoots out the side? If one of those engines is running, and there has been no problems (such as oil consumption), and you are gettin up to speeds of 55 MPH, then there is likely a bit more of a problem than just a stuck valve causing the push rod to bend. On the other hand, if the engine won't start, starts up hard, engine has unexplained noise, sounds off kilter with the tappets, and runs like crud as if it is almost out of time, then a logical step would be to check for gum deposits. However, the owner would likely know the history of the car in the first place in order to identify there was bad gas in there. Say, for example that I bought the car off a lot where it had sat for a number of years (Actually did that with a '62 Falcon), then I'd first clean the tank, the fuel system and the oil in an effort to make sure the engine would crank and run with the best advantage. Not enough info provided to assume that is what transpired, so this is an interesting call. Having seen lots of sludge in many an older car engine, I can attest to the fact that oil can indeed become milky or cruddy in many a negative manner. Let's see what transpires on this.<P>There is a web site called inliners international that is very great at providing info about the inline six, such as a 216 or a 235 engine. I don't have the site address, but was a member for a bit there and it is great for six bangers and info on them.<P>Again, the call on the gummy gas may indeed be correct. Let's see. <P> </B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>

[Guest]

<P> OK, it's my turn. I advise all of you to buy a name brand gasoline and don't look at that crap that's 2 cents cheaper cause you're saving 30 cents on that tank of gas. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!!!! The quality brands have additives and detergents to keep the fuel stabilized plus keep moving parts clean to minimize gunk buildup. <BR> It really saves money doesn't it when you end up destroying parts? <BR> Most terminals are jointly shared by a number of brands today and a lot of people think, " It's all the same!" Nothing can be more from the truth. They have the base component and additives, detergents and dyes are injected into the supply line as it's being loaded. When you go in to load, you insert your cards into the reader and the computer processes your product. The computer programs the injection system for your load. So don't think it's all the same. You'll be sadly mistaken. The premium brands will maintain stability for a lot longer period.<BR> Remember, garbage in, garbage out. Feed your engine properly and it will take care of you.<BR> I'm a little off the primary thread here, but I think it's something that needs mentioning.<BR>

[Guest]

One other thing I forgot to mention. The unleaded fuel theory has been blown way out of proportion. I know a guy that ran out of gas in a '65 Vette, 327 cu. in., 300+ horse. He was 15-20 miles from the nearest station and he sure didn't want to walk. The only thing around was a 500 gallon tank of kerosene. He put about 2 gallon in the tank and drove the car to the station. The car is still running today and if you don't believe me, ask anyone that was on the Rochester, Minnesota Founders Tour.

[ply33]

Alan Terek ~~ I've heard that where I live all the gas comes from Tosco refineries regardless of brand.<BR><ul><BR>[*]So you are saying that as they load the tanker truck they inject the additives?<BR>[*]And the additives injected into the gas depend on where the gas is being delivered?<BR>

<BR>Fascinating. It would never have occurred to me.<P>------------------<BR><A HREF="http://www.ply33.com" TARGET=_blank>Plymouth: The First Decade</A>

[Guest]

LaFayette,<BR>Still waiting on answers to my Questions.<BR>Without more information about the engine, and the other questions. I can't really find out the problem. Having bent pushrods various ways over the years. I do know of several causes. I still think you have more problems than Old Gas.<P>------------------<BR>Gatomon

[Guest]

Ha! Brings back memories. Older mechanics used to use a small amount of kerosene run through the carb at high idle on a regular engine. The theory at the time was that it was healthy to do this every now and again in order to clean the carb and such. Probably felt it was like cleaning injectors on today's cars.<P>I once hitched a ride with two fellows in a convertable back in the 60's. I fell asleep in the rear seat of the car. They stopped at some lonley place on a country road, because they ran out of gas. One of the guys left with a gas can. When he later returned he told us that he had stolen some gas (not something I was fond of doing at the time, but I had no control in the issue). He poured it into the tank and we were off. However, the convertable quickly was enveloped with a strange smell and I noticed a huge ball of smoke emmiting from the tail area. Seems he had not told us that he had stolen the gas from a diesel tractor parked in some farmer's field. We drove about 10 miles or so in that smoke bomb, but it did indeed drive. I have no clue as to any damage done to the engine. I was just glad to get to town and disembark before the cops got us for something I had not actually done. It was funny though, as I can still remember those guys driving off with that smoke trailing out the back like a DDT truck. Whew!<P>Huey <P> <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Alan Terek:<BR><B>One other thing I forgot to mention. The unleaded fuel theory has been blown way out of proportion. I know a guy that ran out of gas in a '65 Vette, 327 cu. in., 300+ horse. He was 15-20 miles from the nearest station and he sure didn't want to walk. The only thing around was a 500 gallon tank of kerosene. He put about 2 gallon in the tank and drove the car to the station. The car is still running today and if you don't believe me, ask anyone that was on the Rochester, Minnesota Founders Tour. </B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>

[ronbarn]

Alan can speak with authority here. After SMOKING the mosquitos in one town with his vette, he indeed knows that kero or deisel works wonders when needed. I know cause I was there, as well as the time he ran out of gas in his Harley. For a man who owns a service station he still thinks he can run a vehicle on empty.<P>Back on the subject, years ago there were top-end oilers that injected a small amount of oil to the valves to prevent the problem of bent valves. But it sounds like this engine is in need of more attention and some serious repairs.

[The Old Guy]

I regularly put 4 gal of diesel fuel in the 22 gal tank on my 32 Buick. It was a 4-1/2 to 1 compression engine and using diesel kept it from vapor locking in hot weather. The fuel available in 32 probably had no more octane than my mixture. I hauled a 1935 Covered Wagon house trailer to California with the 32 in 1976 and it did the job just fine

[Guest]

On the 1990 AACA Founders Tour in Charlotte, NC, the temp remained in the HIGH 90's during the tour. I ran a '41 Cadillac for the entire tour on 1 gal diesel fuel to 20 gal gasoline. It solved my serious vapor lock problem. Father Ron was there for that one too.<P>Just to clean everything out, on the 500 mile trip home I ran at high speed on pure gasoline. When inspected after the drive home, the plugs were perfectly clean. ~ hvs

[D Binger]

Al<P>Just remember on thing - - - "E" does not mean enough. <BR>Maybe you should go to Wal-Mart and get a new paint stick and use that to check the tank for gas.<P>Dan

[ronbarn]

Howard is only telling part of the story on running with a touch of diesel. He had been having a problem with vapor lock and asked for advice from one of our grand old members and tourist, Les Henry. Les nonchantly suggested the diesel additive so Howard naturally assumed that with his knowledge of old cars he spoke with authority. Howard added the diesel and as noted in a previous replay on this thread it worked - no vapor lock. On the last day of the tour Howard went over to Les and told him that his advice really worked. Les then admitted that he had heard this remedy for many years and never really believed it but was happy to hear it worked. So much for expertise - Howard is this recollection correct?

[Guest]

Ron ~~ ABSOLUTELY CORRECT!!! ~ Howard

[Guest]

More info. The car was stored for 2 years.At the end of 1 year I started it and ran it for a short trip,refilled it with Exxon 89 octane. After transporting it to Texas in June,I started it and drove it for some short trips.I added 8 gal.of Exxon 89 octane.The next time I started it I had the problem in question. I corrected it and it ran fine. Then on a 30 mile trip I had the same problem on the return home. After reading the responces here I added another bottle of Gunk Lead Additive and 8 oz of Mystery Oil to the tank. Pulled it out of the garage and let it run to warm up.Drove it a short distance and it ran good.Drove the car this past Sat. 20 miles to a parade and it ran fine as it should. Hope it is cured.May drain the gas anyway as a precaution.Thanhs for the help.

[Guest]

<P>If you are running baout with old gas, additives and varnishes in the tank, then even if running now, you still have the potential to gum up the system with debris particles at any time. Simply replacing a single tank of gas may improve a bad situation a bit enough for the car to run, but not usually a cure-all to the actual problem. I believe you will have to go through the system at some point. If it were me, I'd do it quickly and not put on the mileage first, but that is "if", and the car is yours to do as you wish. As the Fram guy on tv used to say, "You can pay now or you can pay later." <P><BR> <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by LaFayette:<BR><B>More info. The car was stored for 2 years.At the end of 1 year I started it and ran it for a short trip,refilled it with Exxon 89 octane. After transporting it to Texas in June,I started it and drove it for some short trips.I added 8 gal.of Exxon 89 octane.The next time I started it I had the problem in question. I corrected it and it ran fine. Then on a 30 mile trip I had the same problem on the return home. After reading the responces here I added another bottle of Gunk Lead Additive and 8 oz of Mystery Oil to the tank. Pulled it out of the garage and let it run to warm up.Drove it a short distance and it ran good.Drove the car this past Sat. 20 miles to a parade and it ran fine as it should. Hope it is cured.May drain the gas anyway as a precaution.Thanhs for the help.</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>

[Guest]

One other note of concern. <P>Many of the mid range gasolines, and I am assuming that where you are the 89 octane stuff is "mid range", get their additional 2 points of octane rating through the use of ALCOHOL. This is NOT good for our old cars.<P>Alcohol will tend to dissolve all kinds of crap in the tank, and elsewhere that it goes, and spread it throughout the engine.<BR>As I said in the beginning, gum and other stuff CAN cause a condition which will cause pushrods to bend. As Huey recommended, clean the whole system thoroughly. One tank of new gas will only get you from point A to point B, NOT clean the engine.<P>My recommendation is to stop using additives in the gasoline. You don't need lead additive or octane booster in that engine. The only thing most additives accomplish is to put money in the pocket of the seller. <P>But then that's just my opinion. I could be wrong. hvs

[Guest]

On my '62 Falcon these are the basic things I did in getting it up to snuff with good gas and all:<P>- Removed and replaced all fuel filters.<BR>- Removed and replaced all rubber tubing attached to any gas lines. they get old and can even dry rot.<BR>- Disconnected all gas lines and blew them out with an air hose.<BR>- Removed the plug in my gas tank and ensured there were no sediment or possible screens there to clog anything.<BR>- Drained all old gas from the tank.<BR>- Replaced the breather components. An oil bath filter would need cleaning and replacement and any paper filter would need complete replacement.<BR>- Removed and replaced the oil filter.<BR>- Any PCV unit would need replacement if on vehicle.<BR>- In my case, the fuel pump was actually replaced, but you may not need that. Newer gasoline can be rough on any rubber parts of a fuel diaphgagm, so check it out.<BR>- Removed and cleaned the carb.<BR>- Checked the oil overflow vent to ensure no rodent had nested there while it sat, and the gases could escape ok from it.<BR>- replaced all weak or worn adjustable clamps for the fuel lines.<BR>- Ran 1:10 diesel to gasoline in first tank to help clean it out.<BR>- You can also run in water through the carb at a high speed in order to clean it out, but this is something I am not as familiar with. I did not do this, but could have.<BR>- changed all plugs and reset gaps and all. Gives a good point to review the engine performance in looking over the plugs. From there you can hit the ignition and electrical, but that is another story.<P>This all takes a bit of time, but ensures you the best start up possible and less danger of muffing an engine in the future.

[Guest]

If anyone has the mag Turning Wheels, a Studebaker club mag, then you can go to the Feb, '96, Volume 28, #2, edition and turn to page 36. It addresses the issue of unleaded substitues by Stephen Allen. He recommends normal wear vehicles (light duty) do not need a lead substitute, but heavy towing vehicles/heavy service do. He addresses personal experiences in valve clearances in using the lead substitute and valve seats getting beaten out of the heads. He says using unleaded gas and no additives seemed to reduce the problem with valve adjustment necessary for a regular car. For station wagons that towed other vehicles or heavy duty vehicle usage, then he recommended the lead additive.<P>Just a bit of info you may find interesting.<P>Huey

[Guest]

The reason I used Exxon 89 octane is that I had read somewhere that it was more stable and would stay useable longer. I ran 4 older farm tractors on 87 unleaded with no additive and never had any problem. They got more frequent use though. Will procede with a full check up. Thanks!

[Guest]

Easy now, Father Ron. I distinctly remember a certain "Big Red" Caddy running out of gas and the driver being rescued by the faux Bud girls. Or maybe that was just folklore.<P>I think you have a good point, though. I think there are deeper complications that don't always show up with the driving patterns we are hearing. With 50,000 miles on a 50 year old engine, problems usually start to rear their ugly head. It's probably okay for a while, but I think this engine is starting to show signs of wear.