Sign in to follow this  
Blayze

1977 Scout II Restoration

Recommended Posts

I'm looking for cheap parts to get a '77 scout back on the road. Anybody know where I can find the essentials at?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
post-101710-143142604827_thumb.jpgThis is what I'm starting with. I'm looking for a Holley 2bbl carb, and the back half of the body

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help. I've been on anything scout before and they unfortunately don't have what I'm looking for. On the other hand, do you know if a 1979 body would fit the 1977 frame?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

scouts have always been known for rust problems and this one being from the north would need checked very carefully. I would strongly suggest putting it on a rack where the frame can be checked. If the frame is good, then it is a matter of the cost to rebuild. most parts can be found if there is a good foundation to start with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine has a good frame and half of a good body. the most i need from this is the back body and fuel system.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
post-101710-14314264118_thumb.jpgSince my brother was getting harassed by the code enforcement officer in plymouth, I moved my truck to my garage in kingston. It's a little cramped in there but it's still manageable. At least now there's a roof over my head and with the body taken off, there's more room to work on her.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not as well as I had hoped. It seams as though the 1977 304 is a rather unpopular model to come across. On the other hand, I've started sanding and painting the body panels that I do have.

post-101710-143142644783_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
www.rockauto.com shows both carbs available for the 1977 304 engine. The 2300 is more expensive and has a longer shipping time. You might check with them to see what the difference is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help. I'm hoping to get it soon so i could hear her start. Me and a friend had tested with a battery and saw that the electrical side of the engine is working just fine so it shouldn't have any problems when we get gas in it. By the way, I did some more painting more of the body. I'm not home but I'll have the pictures up tomorrow or Saturday along with the new work shelf that my brother and I are building for the garage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After one final clear coat and my brother's touch of humor to add style to it, the front section is done and painted. Now I need to find a back section of body to put on it and it'll at least look pretty.

post-101710-143142651966_thumb.jpg

post-101710-143142651939_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm working on the wiring to start the engine and keep it running. Looking at the diagram, it calls for something called an ignition pulse amplifier. Could anybody help me understand what I'm looking at and/or if I need one? Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't been able to work on the scout lately, however, Saturday I plan on, with the help of my brother and friends, starting her up and rebuilding the body. I hope it all goes well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm painting and trying to do some wiring now. does anybody have a clue as to what an ignition pulse amplifier is an if so, could i bypass it somehow? thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So far this is the only place i could find a complete metal body tub for sale. http://www.scoutmadness.com/tubsforsale.html. Does anybody know of a place I could find a full metal long top? My brother found four back side windows so instead of a bikini top like I had originally planned, I'm going to do the original removable top.

Edited by Blayze
Typo (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My paint ran out at about four inches from the bottom of the passenger side door so that is next on the list of things to pick up. On the plus side, however, the rear windows are very easy to clean!

post-101710-14314272284_thumb.jpg

post-101710-143142722827_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The weather is finally getting better than sub 0 so I'm gettin back in the garage to crack out some more work done. Just replaced spark plugs and next is the valve cover gaskets

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry about the long break. It finally got warmer out so i pulled her out of the garage and started to build her back up so i can get some wiring done and hopefully get it started. with constant researching and the help of some patient auto store workers, I found that the "Ignition Pulse Amplifier" is actually the holly gold box that I kept hearing about. So on that note, I now need to figure out how to wire it up and then the ignition will be done! I also may have an extra fiberglass hood, grill, and lights to sell. I'll need to see if I can get my hands on them soon though. Here's some pics of what my girlfriend and I have workin' on. I apologize for the washed-out look of them. My phone's camera lens is a little dirty and i haven't gotten around to cleaning it.
 

post-143901-0-79049800-1434778720_thumb.

post-143901-0-23485400-1434778758_thumb.

post-143901-0-26956400-1434778780_thumb.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I almost got it to start though I cant figure out what the problem is. When the wires are connected to the solenoid to crank the motor, it moves fairly slow and then the bat starts to smoke a little. I think the solenoid is bad because there is a reading on the multimeter when the probes are attached to the body (as a ground) and any of the terminals except the battery terminal. So with that, would it be safe to assume that the solenoid is causing a short and therefor not letting enough power get to the starter and/or spark plugs? This was the only thing I could assume was stopping it, however, the clerk at Cee Kay's, my local auto store, told me that it wasn't safe to assume that the solenoid grounding out was the right was to deduce needing a new solenoid. he thought that the starter was going bad and, giving me the run-around for 20 minutes, I walked out with neither. So I ask, would it be the solenoid or are there more problems than that?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this