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cshbc@aol.com

1916 Stutz Bearcat Clutch

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Take the U-joint apart and the dog bone center link will come out. I believe this will provide room to slip the clutch rearward.

If you are relining the clutch I recommend leather as originally equipped.

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Take the U-joint apart and the dog bone center link will come out. I believe this will provide room to slip the clutch rearward.

If you are relining the clutch I recommend leather as originally equipped.

Layden,

Thank you for the direction. I have a kevlar lined clutch which is grabby. I will take a crack at removing the dog bone link. Your sage wisdom is greatly appreciated.

Gary

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Hello Layden,

The U-joint has been removed. The shaft that operates the clutch throw out bearings prevents the clutch from clearing the spring tension bolts in the carrier. I guess my only option is to remove the shaft. I can forward pictures if it is helpful. Look forward to your thoughts.

Gary

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The short shaft with the clutch throwout lever arms can be readily removed from the center crossmember by removing the 2 small caps holding it in place. The 2 support arms from the center crossmember may still be in the way. You may have to remove the bolts holding it to the frame and slide it to the rear.

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On the issue of a grabbing clutch.

Some cone clutch facings have a couple of locations where a spring will lift a spot on the leather face to give a " feel" before the whole facing contacts.

The real perception of a grabbing clutch though is often us! Today we are used to revving the engine and slipping the clutch to get the car going. In those times the big flywheel was used with slow engine speed to get the car rolling and then low speed torque of the engine accelerated the car to speed. The clutch did little slipping and so lasted a long time.

The more we drive like little old ladies the better these cars operate, not exactly what you probably wanted to hear!

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Layden, I agree, the clutch is just there to get the car moving and not for slipping. Also, I feel getting up the gearbox as soon as possible and staying in high gear for as long as possible is the way to drive these cars. The good thing with manual advance and retard is that you can keep the engine happy at very low revs...

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Thanks Layden,

I will let you know how things go. Gary

Well, the leather faced clutch is in. To do it the shaft carrying the brake, clutch pedals and all attachments comes out. The cross member that holds the pedal shaft and the drive shaft has to be moved back. This was accomplished with a friends hydraulic jack set up, difficult to do with out it. The u joint comes out, the easiest way would be to lower the drive shaft after unbolting the coupling, determined after the u joint was disassembled with the drive shaft in place. The drive shaft must be lowered to remove the clutch. With the correct tools and some knowledge it is doable, but not a quick operation.

I look forward to giving the new clutch a test in the warmer weather.

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It was Kevlar lined. It would either slip or chatter. As you know, the transmission is delicate and I was concerned that the grabby, chattery clutch would break the transmission case, thus the return to leather lining.

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Ah, I understand now. My clutch is leather but needs to be oiled most days with neatsfoot (saddle) oil to make it less grabby. Did you follow Laydens suggestion of leaving a few high spots on the leather so you have a bit of 'feel' when you let the pedal out? I am assuming your car is fitted with the pad stop which is bolted to the outer casing and (helps) stop the clutch cone spinning to make first and reverse easier to select?

It was Kevlar lined. It would either slip or chatter. As you know, the transmission is delicate and I was concerned that the grabby, chattery clutch would break the transmission case, thus the return to leather lining.

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Finally went for a drive. The leather faced clutch was a joy. No slipping, no grabbing. The clutch that came out was very hard kevlar which explains the problem, not much give. Thanks for all of your help.

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Hi,

cshbc glad your clutch is working good. You are right the hard lining was your problem, it is for brakes, not clutch. I install soft Kevlar on clutch that do not need to be oiled to work.

Andy from Delaware 302-245-7276

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