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65 rivi steering gear box


arnulfo de l.a.

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The output and input shaft seals are fairly easy to replace as well as the large oring under the domed aluminum cap. There are internal seals and rings that can be replaced also but to do those requires a much more invasive tear down. These seals do not prevent external leakage but rather make the unit function. If you are a motivated above average mechanic and like a challenge you can gut, clean, and replace seals using the shop manual as a guide. Warning, those little steel balls can be very frustrating to keep track of and get back in properly. For me this was one of those jobs that I'm still on the fence with as far as DIYS or sending it out. If money is no problem by all means send it out.

I am amazed at the engineering that goes into these steering boxes.

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You might consider a Variable Ratio box - direct bolt in rather then rebuilding yours ?

If I remember correctly, you can use yours as a core if you get a variable ratio unit as Dick suggests by dealing with Lares in the #2 post above. Might be a win-win situation.

Ed

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Your box would make a good core for Lars Mfg. I bought a couple from them in the 1990's for customers with bad seals. A fresh rebuilt box is the best way to go.

Lars pops up in the forum, just look for the Studebaker truck in the signature.

Bernie

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. . . I've heard that concept before Jason, but it wasn't automotive related !! :confused:

Randy- Leave it to you to our Canadian friend from the great white north to drag a perfectly innocent thread into the gutter. ha just kidden.

With all the cold weather I am surprised your fingers aren't frozen "stiff" to where you can't type on the keyboard.

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A variable ratio steering box first appeared in the Riviera in 1969. The concept is that the steering gradually gets stiffer as speed increases.

My impression is `60`s era variable ratio power steering is a gearbox whose ratio changes as the gears move off center. So, in a straight ahead position the ratio might be 17.5 to 1 and as the gears move off center to the left or right the ratio progressively changes to 12.5 to 1. This provides steering which does not have a "heavy" feeling in a straight ahead position but offers the advantages of a quicker ratio as one turns the wheels left or right. This feature reduces the number of turns lock to lock and is an asset in parallel parking moves and tight parking lots. The variable ratio is accomplished by the cut of the gears and their relationship to each other. Dont think `60`s cars had the technology to affect steering ratio based on vehicle speed.

Tom Mooney

Edited by 1965rivgs (see edit history)
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Thanks everyone for the kind words! Yes we can rebuild you steering box and make it variable ratio. When we're done with it the gear will be backed by a limited lifetime warranty for as long as you own the vehicle. You can either PM me, or call the number listed below if you would like to talk about this further.

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My impression is `60`s era variable ratio power steering is a gearbox whose ratio changes as the gears move off center. So, in a straight ahead position the ratio might be 17.5 to 1 and as the gears move off center to the left or right the ratio progressively changes to 12.5 to 1. This provides steering which does not have a "heavy" feeling in a straight ahead position but offers the advantages of a quicker ratio as one turns the wheels left or right. This feature reduces the number of turns lock to lock and is an asset in parallel parking moves and tight parking lots. The variable ratio is accomplished by the cut of the gears and their relationship to each other. Dont think `60`s cars had the technology to affect steering ratio based on vehicle speed.

Tom Mooney

Thanks for the correction Tom. I posted info as it is stated on the Evolution of the Riviera on the ROA website for 1969. The thought crossed my mind wondering how they would have made it speed sensitive in 69 but didn't take the time to verify.

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well men another mission successfully accomplished. i took my steering gearbox off,took it apart, changed all the orings and seals, put it back together, made all the adjustments and reinstalled it back in my car. ( 1965 rivi gs ). it took me all of 4 days to finally get it right.i learned alot and would feel comfortable doing it again when the need arises. the only thing i would do differently is use a proper spanner wrench to remove and replace adjusting collar.i kind of buggered mine up for not using a proper spanner wrench.the hardest part physically was removing and reinstalling the unit.aside from the fact that its heavy, unless you have the car up on a lift (which i dont) its difficult working it into position,reattaching the hoses and steering column flange to the gearbox shaft. i used tie wire to help support the unit while i handled each task.the most tedious parts was getting all the steel balls back in and in the right order. there are 24 of them 12 are .0005" smaller than the other 12.the smaller ones are supposed to be darker in color than the bigger ones but i guess the coloring wore out on mine because i could not see the difference in color.a micrometer got it all sorted out. changing the seals and orings was no big deal.

i know lares would have done a great job had i sent it to them but wheres the fun in that? i also wanted to stay with the steering i have now vs variable ratio. i like the feel of my steering.

so for any of you contemplating doing a rebuild yourself, i say go for it!on a difficulty scale of 1-10, 10 being most difficult, i give it a 6.the only special tools you would need are a pitman arm puller, a spanner wrench and possibly a micrometer.

arnulfo

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well men another mission successfully accomplished. i took my steering gearbox off,took it apart, changed all the orings and seals, put it back together, made all the adjustments and reinstalled it back in my car. ( 1965 rivi gs ). it took me all of 4 days to finally get it right.i learned alot and would feel comfortable doing it again when the need arises. the only thing i would do differently is use a proper spanner wrench to remove and replace adjusting collar.i kind of buggered mine up for not using a proper spanner wrench.the hardest part physically was removing and reinstalling the unit.aside from the fact that its heavy, unless you have the car up on a lift (which i dont) its difficult working it into position,reattaching the hoses and steering column flange to the gearbox shaft. i used tie wire to help support the unit while i handled each task.the most tedious parts was getting all the steel balls back in and in the right order. there are 24 of them 12 are .0005" smaller than the other 12.the smaller ones are supposed to be darker in color than the bigger ones but i guess the coloring wore out on mine because i could not see the difference in color.a micrometer got it all sorted out. changing the seals and orings was no big deal.

i know lares would have done a great job had i sent it to them but wheres the fun in that? i also wanted to stay with the steering i have now vs variable ratio. i like the feel of my steering.

so for any of you contemplating doing a rebuild yourself, i say go for it!on a difficulty scale of 1-10, 10 being most difficult, i give it a 6.the only special tools you would need are a pitman arm puller, a spanner wrench and possibly a micrometer.

arnulfo

Hi Arnulfo,

Can you provide some info re the rebuild kit you used? Congrats on the rebuild. Do you have the quick steering in your GS? Thanks,

Tom Mooney

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Tom,

I bought the kit at napa auto parts it's the "SEAL KIT - MAJOR" # 7-124. It was around $ 40. You can also buy the external seals only. If your gearbox is working good and all you have are leaks , that may be the way to go.if I recall correctly you can even get the specific seal kit I.e. Pitman shaft seals or stub shaft seals (that's the shaft that the steering wheel shaft connects to).

I'm not 100% sure I have the close ratio gearbox. My car has all the other identifying parts that would indicate it has the gs option package.its 3 full turns lock to lock. I didn't have a non close ratio box to compare mine to so I could not distinguish between the two types by looking at the internals.

arnulfo

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Tom,

I bought the kit at napa auto parts it's the "SEAL KIT - MAJOR" # 7-124. It was around $ 40. You can also buy the external seals only. If your gearbox is working good and all you have are leaks , that may be the way to go.if I recall correctly you can even get the specific seal kit I.e. Pitman shaft seals or stub shaft seals (that's the shaft that the steering wheel shaft connects to).

I'm not 100% sure I have the close ratio gearbox. My car has all the other identifying parts that would indicate it has the gs option package.its 3 full turns lock to lock. I didn't have a non close ratio box to compare mine to so I could not distinguish between the two types by looking at the internals.

arnulfo

Thanks Arnulfo, great info. The standard `65 box should be about 3 and 7/8 turns and the quick box a full turn less at about 2 and 7/8 turns lock to lock. There is a date code in the area of the lash adjustment screw. Should be a week/year code.

Tom Mooney

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  • 3 years later...
On ‎1‎/‎13‎/‎2014 at 9:36 PM, arnulfo de l.a. said:

there are 24 of them 12 are .0005" smaller than the other 12.the smaller ones are supposed to be darker in color than the bigger ones but i guess the coloring wore out on mine because i could not see the difference in color.a micrometer got it all sorted out.

 

Just wanted to thank you, Arnulfo, for this bit of information. I just finished putting my steering box back together and would not have noticed this without your post. I first measured mine with my caliper and they all seemed to be the same as they were all the same shiny metal. After rechecking with a micrometer I could see the diff.

 

Steve

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