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The rubber flap actually snaps into the sheet metal (some people call it a stone shield) that fits between the bumper and the grille. And, it is held in place by two clips that are very similar to the clips that hold the dust shields around the upper "a" arms of the front suspension. I am not saying that Clark's doesn't have it but I have not seen it on their website. I have seen them pop up on ebay from time to time.

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Arnulfo & Don, thank you for that rubber flap info. I have a fabric reinforced rubber mat that I bought to use on other projects. If one of you could post a close up pic or two for me of your headlight motor set up with the flap in place then maybe I could make my own flap.

David

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David, this is what it looks like. It clips on to the lower valance sheet metal right under the grill. You may have been wondering why that valance has two holes in it.

T2eC16dzEE9s3Y8SBRQ5ku18E60_35_zpscca44f82.jpg

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There's been talk in a current thread about non-matching numbers cars.

 

Well it turns out, from the info posted, that I have one of those non-matching numbers cars. Bummer!!

 

The sad part is that after 22+ years of ownership I just assumed my car was unmolested.…I know…that's what I get for assuming.

 

Regardless, I don't know that I would've taken a different route if I had found this out sooner. I'm a bit too deep into my project now anyway.

 

Here are pics of the numbers stamped into the leading edge of my block. The passenger side numbers look very neat, straight & totally different than the numbers I've seen you guys post. The numbers on the driver side (which are suppose to match the vin but don't in my case) look more like what I see on this forum.

 

So can any of you tell me, by these numbers, what year car this engine came from. Or any info at all would be nice.

 

Thanks in advance

PS. Here is the link to said thread

 

http://forums.aaca.org/showthread.php?t=365423

 

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Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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David, this is what it looks like. It clips on to the lower valance sheet metal right under the grill. You may have been wondering why that valance has two holes in it.

Awesome! Thx for the pic Rob. I think I can make one similar to that. Is it a one molded piece or two held together with the clips that took that shape from sitting like that so long?

David

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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No, it is one molded piece. The clips are used to attach the piece to the front bumper filler/valance body colored steel panel.

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This is where the body of my car ended up. I was going for Rob J & Chris Nolan's design on my stands…I think I nailed it…lol…NOT! Pretty sketchy right? I heard about it too lol.

 

I attached the link to a separate thread of questions I had about this rotisserie I borrowed from a friend.

 

http://forums.aaca.org/showthread.php?t=362115

 

BCFFF579-48F9-4752-B71B-50B6CCC5EDCA.jpeg.38f987bca742ebf0cba273d87426e9e4.jpeg

 

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Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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David, concrete blocks not a good idea. Even stacked the way they are. I know a guy that killed himself that way. Please DO NOT get under that car. Even off the chassis, that body still weighs well over 1,000 pounds.

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Yes I agree, I am glad you put that on the stand because that block setup is dangerous (unless you concreted them together) They will fall in a heartbeat. I followed Robs set up and I put extra cross bracing in and I still didnt like being under the car as I worked on it. I cant imagine how hard it is to flip on that stand though, I know how heavy it is, but definitely better for getting underneath.

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I appreciate the concern fellas. I didn't realized how dangerous the block idea was 'til Bernie yelled at me lol…I just thought "heck, if they use 'em for house foundations then it should work here too" but as Chris mentioned the strength is when they are filled with concrete. Wish I would've thought of that…

 

Rob J: sorry about your friend…thx for sharing

 

Chris: it's definitely NOT hard to turn the body while on the rack. But, again, in my inexperience I only attempted to do it once with everything still in it (all glass, seats, carpet, console, dash, column). If u missed the link, well I "think" I broke something when I tried rotating te body :( still a mystery. But I heard a loud crack/pop. Maybe it was just the rotisserie?

 

Here's a pic of my dirty undercarriage after an hour of cleaning but before I got "yelled at" to NOT get under it haha.

 

I also found some hidden numbers under there.

 

F6D4C46A-A383-4BBE-93E8-F779405B066E.jpeg.afb4b559720dcbb1a2ec6ac0554d83bc.jpeg

 

842D830A-F23A-4A4F-AA6D-EF3590B13C37.jpeg.6bf2da2bcecf757cb7528fa04a76e224.jpeg

 

 

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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David , Sweet build thread thanks for sharing your adventure. She's lookin good

Hey thx a lot Dialtone…woo whoo another SoCal brother. If u don't mind me asking where in SoCal are u?

David

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Here is a good deal: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200349986_200349986

Best to stick with a brand name.

They look like the same speck as mine with a 25" extended height. I bought 2 pair in the early 1990's and I think the price was pretty close to today's.

They are great, just be such to only use one hand when you release the lock and keep the other behind you. The post drops with authority.

Two hundred bucks is about half the cost of an ambulance ride in my village........ those guys are volunteeers!

Bernie

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David, I have found a bunch of numbers stamped all over the car as I have gone. Alot of the floor panels have them, like the 49447 I found in the trunk (49000 series for the Riviera)

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@Dialtone, we gotta hook up. I'll try & get out to the next LB car swap meet.

 

@Bernie, thx for the link. But I think I'll be safe now that I have it hooked up to that rotisserie rack. Especially since I've been busy lightening the load lately…"more things came off that easy" lol…yea I will post pix soon (ugh, damn can of worms). $400 for a ride in the meat wagon is cheat lol I'm kind of in that field & L.A. City will rape u for over $1000 if u need a ride lol…don't get hurt while your out here visiting lol

 

@Chris, yea I've learned about the 49000 series being the Rivieras from my shop manual. But the 4747 I've only seen on the 63-64 fisher body plates…no biggy. The "H" I'm guessing represents Flint & "27" is for 2 door coupe (found this info in body manual). I haven't spent too much time working in the trunk yet.

 

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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Here is another undercarriage pic. I didn't get very far when cleaning before I was scared straight about my choice in body stands lol…I'll finish up after I do my welding

 

220B45B7-6538-49E3-8110-C3B9E4021DE3.jpeg.a979190554ef30474ef8a7702e5430c1.jpeg

 

My plan was to not deal with the interior or body component until I married the body up to the chassis. My hope was to clean & undercoat the undercarriage prior to that. But a gut feeling got me to peel back a section of my carpet to only discover some serious surface rust under there.

 

So out came the seats, center console, carpet, fiberglass jute, tar paper sound deadener, wire looms & finally the heater box (I hope to go with an aftermarket A/C system since mine is shot).

 

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Does anyone sell this cardboard cutout that I found behind the rear seats?

 

It seems to have some kind of tar backing…maybe another sound barrier? What have some of you replaced it with or do u simply leave it out of the equation?

 

B19A4938-8A86-411E-9FBB-139BF880C8D7.jpeg.ca855deb8a88d25b10ce5dde9e81d2e8.jpeg

 

It was nasty under there lol it's definitely looking nicer now that I scraped & shop vac'd the heavy ends

 

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I found a handful of rust pinholes that I will have to deal with on the floorboards & one trouble area on the driver side. I will have to cut out the trouble area & replace it with a patch panel I will shape to the match the contour of the floor. 

 

(IF, by chance, I sound like I know what I'm doing…rest assured…I DON'T lol this will be my first time lol wish me luck).

 

I'm glad I discovered this mess before I went thru my undercoating steps. I imagine trying to weld with all that in the way would be a real PITA. Funny thing is you couldn't see the trouble area from the underside when I was cleaning. You can see it now that I poked thru the weakened metal with a screw.

 

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Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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If thats all ya got you got lucky like me. Just enough rust to say ya fixed a rotten floorboard, but not enough to be a big headache ;)

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Not wanting to get hung up on the safety side, I can give just one more tip. Any time I work under my cars I set it securely on jack stands and leave the jack just nudged against the frame in the area where I am working. If it is on four stands I drag the jack with me to the area I am. So I always have at least two supports, belt and suspenders.

Another trick I like is to stack immovable object like inflated tires between the car and the floor like this:

post-46237-143142363139_thumb.jpg Bernie

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@Chris, as of right now, yes that's the only trouble rust spot I found. I'm not gonna let my guard down tho…I'm sure I'll be faced with another rust challenge somewhere else on this build (hope not, I'll try the "fingers crossed" trick again) lol.

 

@Bernie, not to get hung up on your awesome garage set-up (& cool cars to fill it), but DAMN that's a cool garage. With the body secured to the rotisserie & it being hundreds of pounds lighter now (I'll be taking the steering column & dash out soon too) I will try to rotate it again to clean & paint the undercarriage. If that works then I won't have a need to crawl under it…but thank u very much for the pointers nevertheless…trust that your direction is very much appreciated sir

 

Edited by RockinRiviDad (see edit history)

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