Guest lowered65 Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Ok, this may be a dumb question, what is the switch under the dash next to the fuse box? I can't seem to tell what it does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Trip odometer reset. Give it a twist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Years ago I bought some front shocks for a 1962 Electra I had. Buick's weren't in the books at the time so we measured and matched. Early 1970's Dodge and Plymouth were the same. When I got them the T-bars were too small for the Buick bolts. A rat tail file took care of that real quick.Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dialtone Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Ok, this may be a dumb question, what is the switch under the dash next to the fuse box? I can't seem to tell what it does.I asked that same Question. As Ed, stated its trip reset just twist it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lowered65 Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Nice car. Looks like it's already had some things redone to it that will save you both time and money and the engine already has some pizzazz added to it. I like the wheels, that style is very popular for this generation Riviera.Ed Hey Ed, looking back on this thread you mentioned the "pizzazz" just curious, what is it your seeing that made you say that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lowered65 Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 ok so I have a question as to what the plug in at top of relay and the disconnected connection at the bottom, I am guessing they have something to do with the clamshell motor? The connection at the top causes the battery to drain so i disconnected it, the connection at the bottom causes smoke:confused: at the connection when I engage the headlights. Thanks for any help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 Hey Ed, looking back on this thread you mentioned the "pizzazz" just curious, what is it your seeing that made you say that?Probably referring to the finned valve covers and the finned valley cover. The car is a standard interior car but has the wood wheel (no horn bar) option and what appears to be an OPGI upholstery kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lowered65 Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 ok, I identified the Carb that was on the car when I bought it, Its a Weber/Edelbrock 600 cfm, It obviously does not have the switch pitch linkage and from what Ive read its kind of small for this car. Need some suggestions on where to go from here. Do I need the switch pitch? If so I am guessing there aren't aftermarket carbs that have linkage for switch pitch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 All TH400 transmissions had electrically controlled kickdowns. You can find aftermarket switches to control the kickdown, so the same switch / type of switch can be used to control the switch pitch.I'd say that you probably would like to have it working. The same linkage controls your kickdown (passing gear) and that sometimes comes in handy.Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lowered65 Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 All TH400 transmissions had electrically controlled kickdowns. You can find aftermarket switches to control the kickdown, so the same switch / type of switch can be used to control the switch pitch.I'd say that you probably would like to have it working. The same linkage controls your kickdown (passing gear) and that sometimes comes in handy.EdOk great, the linkage for the switch pitch is just floating next to the carb right now, so at least its there, but who knows if it even works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinRiviDad Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 Nice car & welcome form So CalRegards,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 It's easy to check out the switch pitch. Put 12V to the S/P wire (yellow) and listen for the solenoid inside the trans to click.If you can get access to any old OEM style carb, you can probably swap the linkage from the old carb to the one that's on it. The factory carb was a 625 CFM. Chance are your 600 won't be that much different. I think that Mr. Gasket also makes some linkage parts that you can add to your existing carb to make the s/p and kickdown work with what you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinRiviDad Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 I spent a few hours on my switch pitch today following this links advice. I will be starting a thread with questions as to not hi-jack this threadhttp://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?174871-Edelbrock-1406-(600cfm)-to-401-Nailhead-HELP!Regards,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lowered65 Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 I spent a few hours on my switch pitch today following this links advice. I will be starting a thread with questions as to not hi-jack this threadhttp://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?174871-Edelbrock-1406-(600cfm)-to-401-Nailhead-HELP!Thanks David I'm following, great stuffI took the Rivi out on the highway for first time yesterday, she did well cruised at 75mph, not a problem, except watching my gas needle drop at a rapid rate haha. When I got her home I noticed that the gas pedal had a lot of slop left to right in it and also noticed that at the bottom there is a little ball attached to the floor and a hole in the pedal. Is the pedal supposed to be connected at that point? Im guessing that it is but can't seem to get them together, any pointers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 It's tough but the two to fit together. This is one instance when "get a bigger hammer" might be advisable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinRiviDad Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 This is a link to the thread I started about the switch pitch trouble shooting I've been taking with the help of RivNut (Ed)…thx Edhttp://forums.aaca.org/showthread.php?t=364391I just took my gas pedal out a couple days ago. This is what the backside of it looks like. If the BFH that Ed suggested doesn't work you can always take the whole thing out to work on it on your bench. You'll need a 7/16" wrench & some patience…it's a funky angle to get in there. Regards,David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lowered65 Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 Thanks guys, got it to go back together, we will see how long it lasts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lowered65 Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 I installed kickdown linkage on my edelbrock carb. Got it out on the road for a test drive, got into 3rd gear and punched it, felt the trans kick down but felt like it was slipping, rpms went real high on the engine but never got it to engage lower gear….any info much appreciated!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 There are two terminals on the transmission sender. One is for the kick-down, the other is for the variable (switch) pitch torque converter. if you hear the engine rpm's rise, but there's no down shift, I'd guess that you're only connected to the switch pitch terminal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lowered65 Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 (edited) Thanks RivNut, I can always count on you for a quick response!! It did feel like it kicked down just never engaged Edited March 24, 2014 by lowered65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lowered65 Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Ok, so I felt like my car wasn't hitting 3rd gear unless I went through the gears manually, I did some research on the forum and everything was pointing to the vacuum line or the modulator so I took it to a local shop and told them to start there. Vacuum lines and modulator checked out fine but they said the pressure was not right and that I have basically lost 3rd gear and need a new valve body!! I am going to take it to another shop and see if I can get a second opinion on it but I figured Id throw it out here and get y'alls opinions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Have you checked the vacuum at the carb? Try running a long piece of new vacuum hose directly to the modulator from the carb. There could be a vacuum leak somewhere along the line. I had a friend who was told basically the same thing by one tranny shop; took it to another independent shop and the owner shortened each end of the old hoses about an inch and re-installed them. Everything worked fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lowered65 Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 I have higher hopes for the second shop, they are trans specialists and were confident they will come up with a solid diagnosis and not just tell me I need all new internals. I will make sure they check the vacuum at the carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lowered65 Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 turns out I lost second gear, that would explain why when i kicked down the rpms went through the roof. Now they need to pull the tranny and find out the problem... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lowered65 Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Well I got the trans all fixed up, new TC and various other parts were replaced. I got the kick down switch installed and it seems to be working, I got the car to about 45 and stepped on it, the car dropped to second but got all the way to 60 and didn't seem to want to grab 3rd so i let off the pedal. After I let off it grabbed 3rd. Any ideas? Will 3rd gear eventually grab if I stay on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Up shifts are a function of vacuum. Check to make sure you're vacuum modulator is connected to the carburetor and there are no leaks.Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lowered65 Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 ok so heres a picture of my carb, problem is from everything I've researched, there seems to be some thing missing. The vacuum port on the left side(which is plugged) should be going to my distributor? The far right should be going to my vacuum modulator but it runs to my distributor...:confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 (edited) On the OE carb, the vacuum line from the carb to the vacuum modulator, is a steel line that comes from the right rear of the carb. There's a T on the base of the carb at the rear, it provides vacuum for the PCV valve and the power booster, the distributor gets vacuum from a small port on the base at the front.Here's a picture of the vacuum modulator line on my '64 with a Carter AFB ( not an aftermarket Edelbrock AFB) and you can see the steel line. Edited April 15, 2014 by RivNut (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lowered65 Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 ok thanks for that Ed, pretty sure I located the line, its Teed off of the back of the carb and leads down to the modulator. The original shop i took it to replaced the modulator and apparently checked for leaks and didn't find any. I tried checking with carb cleaner but didn't see anything…the beat goes on…it wouldn't have anything to do with adjusting the kick down switch would it? Im stabbing in the dark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 [ATTACH=CONFIG]242880[/ATTACH]ok so heres a picture of my carb, problem is from everything I've researched, there seems to be some thing missing. The vacuum port on the left side(which is plugged) should be going to my distributor? The far right should be going to my vacuum modulator but it runs to my distributor...:confused:The port on the right (in the pic) is constant manifold vacuum which is correct for the distributor vacuum advance in your application. The port on the left is ported vacuum, not what you want for the single 4 barrel distributor. Tom Mooney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest slacker1965 Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 ok thanks for that Ed, pretty sure I located the line, its Teed off of the back of the carb and leads down to the modulator. The original shop i took it to replaced the modulator and apparently checked for leaks and didn't find any. I tried checking with carb cleaner but didn't see anything…the beat goes on…it wouldn't have anything to do with adjusting the kick down switch would it? Im stabbing in the darkbe REAL careful checking for vacuum leaks w/carb cleaner....if your sparkler wires are old bad things can & do happen.... on my cars, they won't shift to 3rd until you burp or breathe the throttle a bit... all of mine came with & have rochester 4bbls on them so I am not any real help here... let me know what you find, I like AFB's betterks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lowered65 Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 be REAL careful checking for vacuum leaks w/carb cleaner....if your sparkler wires are old bad things can & do happen.... on my cars, they won't shift to 3rd until you burp or breathe the throttle a bit... all of mine came with & have rochester 4bbls on them so I am not any real help here... let me know what you find, I like AFB's betterksthanks slacker, mine did find third if i let off the throttle a tad, just was hoping for a smoother transition. I will take her out tomorrow, maybe its just a matter of getting used to it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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