BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

Recommended Posts

Since brakes are to a complete point, still need to do a test and then install all the cotter pins in the linkages and clevis. that is ALWAYS FUN !!

I decided to tear down the bottom of the engine, remove oil pan and clean it out one more time. there was a little sludge, but I can live with that compared to what I started with !!

Also checked the oil pump and innards while I was there. also removed the FUZZ/ Rope Seal on the rear Bearing. Hoping this eliminates or at least REDUCES the oil leak I have. put it all back together, cleaned up the area and then filled it back up with oil...

did a test fire and let it run for a few to get warmed up and circulating.

figured I would do a FINE TUNE on the 1929

so changed out to the NEW wire set I got from Marx Parts, VERY NICE SET, put in the NEW AC Delco C87 gapped at .40, per VCCA Recommendation, changed to my new coil. and fired right up. broke out the timing light and messed with the timing to get it to the recommended 18 degrees. did not sound too happy so dropped it back till it smoothed out, at about 12 degrees or so.

decided to call it a night, and will tinker with the plug gap and timing till it purrs and runs smooth...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Spent some more time messing with the Tune Up, trying to figure out WHY it would not idle or run smooth. Talking with my friends on the VCCA decided to look for vacuum leaks. Using an old timer trick broke out a can of carb cleaner and spray small burst around intake manifold, nothing. That is a sign of relief, then did a few small burst around the carb gasket, and there it was. has a leak all around the gasket. so now need to remove the carb and replace the gasket...

All for another night

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Decided to pull the Carb to check the Accelerator Pump since I have to replace the gasket. Looked inside the throat and it was black !! coated !! did a little checking and pulled the bowl, full of fuel, float was at about 3/4" as Spec'd. Tinkered with the Acc pump, it was REALLY LOSE to the point that when I removed the Nut & Washer off the bolt and removed it, the Level for the Acc Pump DROPPED to the bottom. In fact with NO effort I was able to remove Acc Pump Level from the pump. It was BONE Dry !! the Acc Pump looks like it has NOT seen Fuel in YEARS !! I removed the bottom screw from the Acc pump and dry as can be.

Pump Lever 1

Pump Lever 2

Pump Lever 3

Sprayed some Carb Cleaner up in the Tube and it went right back out at me. So there is a Clog in there somewhere. Checked out the other jets & ports, they look good. After a few minutes of the cleaner, I sprayed another burst in the acc pump port and out it came thru the jet in the throat.

So looks like it really need a GOOD CLEANING maybe a Rebuild w/ new gaskets and such.

Decided to clean it up best I could and call it a night

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, today after cleaning the carb, I put it back together and hooked the Vacuum Gauge to the Manifold where the Wiper Vacuum Connects.

In doing so I got right about 19-20 Hg on the Gauge :)

...it seemed to stay steady there

If I rev up the engine should the reading drop, climb or just stay steady ?? This is during Engine Rev, figure it should even back out once at a Steady RPM.

Did a compression check as well to be on the safe side.

I am getting approx. 75 PSI on all 6 cylinders !! so that makes me feel a little better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Going through my stuff I have for my 1929, I have a spare Carter RJH-08 150S, currently have the Carter RJH-08 136S on the car.

From my understanding this may be an NOS Carb ??

Looking it over there are NO marks from it ever being mounted, Mounting Flange is Clean & can still see machine marks in it. On the back side of the Flange you can NOT see any scratches or surface wear from a bolt or nut or a washer being against it. All the Springs look Pretty Original as well as the Screws, Thread are perfect and no signs of wear. All the tabs and Brackets are still in shape and show no distortion. The Brass bowl looks GREAT, other then tarnish/ coloration from age, shows NO marks from wrenching, banging or anything. Nut looks NEW. Also still ahs the little ? Copper/ Brass ? tag in tack, stamped with 2 shapes/ holes and marked with a J 8 and then a small 8, anyone know what these means ?? Also looks like a Lightly stamped "1" then a BOLD Stamped "50" lightly stamped "S"

Looking in the intake/ Throat it looks clean, can still see the cast surface finish, as well as the acc jet in the back. this thing shows NO sign of wear... did they test these things at the factory before installation/ shipping or just build and ship and let the guys in the field/ factory install and adjust/ test/ tune.

Shot some pictures up and thought I would share and get feedback from those that my have some input or thoughts.

Carter RJH-08 150S

If it is possible I may put the 150S on the car and have the 136S rebuilt and store for a spare, or just sell it to a new home. If not possible I will rebuild the 136s and put it back on the car and sell off this 150S.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Regarding the carb tag, the number sequence seems to be consistent with what Carter did for later carburetors. The large 50S is a model number for the carb. The J 8 8 is a date code which probably decodes to August 8 1928. If Carter did not ignore the letter "I" in the date sequence, the date would be September 8, 1928. Joe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AS of tonight, have installed al but 4 Cotter Pins on the Brakes, these I will install once I double check the brakes WITH the wheels on. This way I can fine tune and adjust the linkages as needed.

Also Swapped out the 136s for the 150s, and got it running.

Supposed to be a wet nasty weekend here, so I plan on FINE tuning the engine, double check timing and set the idle. Get all four wheels on, double check the brakes, and finish setting the PARKING Brake. Maybe check the fluid levels in Tranny & Rear. after that should be ready to take it for a ride.

I Think...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

removed the bottom rear end cover bolt to see what I could drain, got even LESS from the rear end they the Transmission. So Pulled the cover off and going to make a new gasket. Also going to flush out and clean up the rear end some to remove any sludge and build up in there. Overall it looks really clean Inside Rear End. Rear End Cover This is how it looked when I removed it, notice NO signs of oil on it anywhere !!

Need to get a larger sheet of Cork gasket material to cut a new gasket. also going to make a new gasket for the top of the trans cover, since I removed that to take a look inside.Trans Cover Gasket

Tranny Gears

Will pick up a quart of 10w30 to flush the tranny & REAR END before I do the new gasket.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I love making gaskets, like an art form.

I am just going one step further, with the new DIGITAL age, as I am also scanning them in electronically (Digitizing). this way when I need a new one I can pull it up, print it out 1:1 and cut a new one :)

Also to order the 2 gaskets above would run me $40 MIN !! 2 Sheets of Gasket material $5 ea ($10 total) then about 30 minutes each to trace, cut & punch...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I did break down and buy a new Punch set, found one that did up to 1 3/8" and has the most common sizes.

Punch Set

Looks like a pretty well built set, has good reviews on all the sites and even has a nice blow mold case to keep it all together !!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sat down this morning and cut out my gaskets, also a good time to test out my new punch set. Granted I did a few test punch on various materials, various sizes to make sure it would PUNCH the holes and NOT TEAR them !!

Printed out a full size template of my Rear End Cover Gasket (Fel-Pro Cork-Rubber) & my Transmission Top Gasket (Fel-Pro Rubber-Fiber). used a glue stick (Elmer's water soluble) to get the paper template to stick to the gasket material. let them sit for a few minutes. broke out the scissors and rough cut out gaskets, then used the x-Acto to clean them up and fine tune. then used the punch set to punch all the bolt holes.

Transmission Top Gasket

Original Gasket

NEW Gasket

used the original gasket as a guide, as well as the Transmission housing & shifter cover

Rear End Cover Gasket

New Gasket

Had to use the Read End Cover & Rear End Housing to make a template, since the original gasket was cork and destroyed in the removal of the Cover.

They look great, hopefully will get out and get them installed this weekend and get OIL in the Transmission and Rear End as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Working on Fine tuning the 1929, I was wondering what the PROPER Diameter for the Vacuum Tubing from the Intake Manifold to the Wiper Valve should be? Currently there is 1/4" OD Copper Tubing run from the Intake manifold to the inside of the cabin, then a piece of rubber tubing from the copper 1/4" where the wiper Valve Goes. Then there is a piece of 3/16" OD Copper Tubing from the inside cabin(also has a piece of rubber tube on the end of it) to where the wiper motor mounts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is what caught me up

...on the wiper valve BOTH fittings measure an inside diameter of Approx 3/16" (.190").

...wonder if the previous owner changed the intake line to a larger one ?? 1/4"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

looking into the 1929-30 MPL that I have it list two nuts as well

Valve Assembly, Wiper Control (in Instrument Panel)..........344865

...Coupling Nut (3/16")...................................................114962

...Coupling Nut (1/4").....................................................114963

For now I have a 1/8"(M)NPT Pipe plug in the intake manifold to avoid the vacuum leak, when i get back to the wiper motor and assembly I will install 1/4" tubing from manifold to valve, then 3/16" tubing from valve to Wiper motor connection. Will also get the required fittings as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting ready for my Maiden Voyage and doing a QUICK overview of the electrical system.

Is there ANY type of thermal switch (or device of the sorts) in the generator or in line with the generator and battery ??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Was doing an electrical check on my 1929 Chevrolet, to see what kind of voltage the Generator is putting out.

Concern 1

Battery is disconnected, and using a volt meter on DC. touch the ground to frame and then touch the positive to the output of the cutout switch (from cut out to battery) and get a reading of 5.4 volts ?? same reading if i touch it ground to frame and positive to starter.

-why would i have a volt reading ??

-where would it be coming from ??

with battery connected this reading matches what my volt reading is direct on the battery within a few tenths of a volt.

Concern 2

with battery connected and car running i am getting 8.5-8.9 volt reading on the generator side of generator. is this good, or ??

Does the generator put out a CONSTANT voltage and the third brush vary the CURRENT (AMP) output ??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Think we are ok on the Voltage Reading...

Seems that the Positive Cable was sitting on the Battery case and due to liquid on the case/ possibly acid allowed for a electrical transfer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well finally dropped the car back on the wheels and took it out on it's Maiden Voyage !! [color:#000099]This was the first time that the 1929 Has been out under it's Own Power & Able to STOP itself in over 20 Years !!

Also the FIRST Time that I have EVER DRIVEN an Antique car as well.

Needless to say it was Exciting & Exhilarating

...So much had to a FEW extra trips around the block

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Out on my Maiden Voyage yesterday the car ran good, shifted pretty smooth, from what I could tell. My question is when I start to release the clutch (letting off the pedal) WHEN in the path should the clutch engage ?? it seemed like the clutch was NOT engaging until the Pedal was almost all the way up to resting position.

I have gone through my Owners Manual & Repair Manual. Pedal is adjusted to it is 3/4" from floorboard, also Approx 1/2" - 3/4" of travel before clutch begins to disengage.

First time driving an Antique Car so not sure HOW the clutch should feel. I know I drive a modern 5spd everyday and have for over 20 years, know the older cars function very different, and want to be sure, and adjust anything that may need it.

in order to check that would require removal of the transmission, which would encompass the u-joint/ drive shaft & unbolting from the engine ?!?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Question in regards to the Clutch Disc itself

Is there ANY way to see and check the Clutch Disc while installed in the car, so as to verify the condition of the Clutch Disc itself ??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Talked to the previous owner, and since he inherited the car from his wife's uncle (when he passed) and the Drivetrain was assembled and in the Chassis, he does not know.

I will install the clutch pedal return spring, since there is NOT one currently installed (have one when I ordered Brake Springs), then adjust the clutch nut per manual.

Then another Test Drive, man what a bummer, have to go out and drive it again ( Woo Hoo )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Installed The Clutch Spring, and adjusted the Clutch Adjusting Nut so that

so that by depressing (clutch) pedal with hand it will travel from 1/2" to 3/4" before clutch starts to disengage.'

If it is NICE outside today I will try to get out for a TEST drive and see how it functions

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now