BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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I have gotten the oil out of the pockets, since I have small hands. I need to clean them out. In way of solvent I Plan to use brake cleaner, throttle/ carb cleaner ?? Thinking the spray kind with the straw, this would clean with some pressure and remove more stubborn sludge & debri, then blow it out and dry with compressed air.

Will Wear Eye Protection for sure, I ALWAYS have it on when I am working on the 1929 !! When I do this part I will grab the face shield as well, that is easier to clean up then I am !!

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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NO Ball for the front, doesn't the front pocket also lubricate the timing GEAR or something of that sort ??

Figured once I cleaned them out & allowed them to dry I would put some oil back in there and spin the engine by hand a few times around to get the oil back in the bearings and lubed up.

Here is a shot of the Standpipe Pocket (Pocket above the bearing), Oil Pocket w/ standpipe Standpipe Pocket - Rear Used my mirror to get this shot.

Should this horizontal oil line dump directly into the stanpipe pockets or into the side pockets as they currently are, dumping oil into the side pockets NEXT to the Standpipe Pockets. Does not look like the Standpipe Pocket & Side Pockets are connected to allow oil to flow into the standpipe pockets !?

What is the purpose of the side pockets ?? Why dump oil into them??

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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Ok, had time yesterday to check out the Oil Pockets & Ball Check.

Ball moves easily and freely with out any hassle or trouble. The Pockets however were NASTY to say the least, removed about a 1/8" or more of sludge and grime. They are all clean now.

My question is how is the oil pocket fed oil ?? is it fed from above or by the oil ilne running down the side of the engine. It looks like there are two pockets, looking at this picture Rear Engine Pict The pocket on the left, directly above the crankshaft and main bearing is about 1.00" deep and has a stand pipe in the center, which I understand feeds the main bearing. But do not see how OIL is fed into this pocket. Is it fed from above or should it be fed by the Oil Feed Line ?? Then there is the pocket on the right, this pocket is deeper then the center pocket, and is currently fed by the oil feed line running down that side. Not sure the purpose of this pocket. does not seem to go anywhere or serve a purpose ??

Rear End Main Pict 01

Rear End Main Pict 02

Horizontal Oil Line into End Pocket - Rear

Horizontal Oil Line into End Pocket - Front

Side Oil Pocket - Front

Standpipe Oil Pocket - Front (Rectangular Pocket on Right Side of Picture)

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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Ok think I got it figured out...

Looks like the Pass Through Holes from the three pockets were CLOGGED.

Pass through Holes Pict 01

Pass through Holes Pict 02

Cleaned them out with a small wire, and then blew them out with Spray Cleaner. Everything flows smoothly now from the side pockets over. So the Horizontal Oil Line feeds the deep side pocket, as it fills up, passes through the hole and fills up the standpipe pocket, and fills of the third pocket wich is the camshaft pocket. Filled up pocket and oil flows freely across the three.

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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Ok, so Last night I filled up the Side Pockets with oil, and the oil distributed across the three pocket as I filled it up. I used my mirror to cehck and confirm this.

Once I filled up the rear & front oil pockets and ensured that the oil had distributed evenly, I spun the motor around a few turns to verify oil in the bearings. A little murky oil came out the bottom hole on both front & rear (Ball Check). Then oil ran nice golden brown. I topped off the pockets with oil.

Think that this should be all to do on the Engine Oil Pockets and Ball Check.

PLEASE let me know if I left anything out or should do ANYTHING ELSE in regards to the Engine Oil Pockets & Ball Check ?!?

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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Had some time last night to install the Wicks. Thanks to Chipper for his instructions and information about removing the Valve Rocker Arms and such. I followed his information and removed both rocker arms. I tried a few methods on installing hte wicks, based on various recommendation on the EASIEST way to install them. I tried installing straight from the package, tried rolling them in my fingertips then installing, tried light coat of oil then installing, and then what I found to be the easiest for me was to put on a light coat of oil then roll in my fingertips, and then roll then install, they slid right in !!

Once they were all installed, I reinstalled the Valve Rocker Arms and made sure the protruding wick tips sat up on the top of hte Push Rod Tips so that the wicks could feed oil to the balls. I torqued everything down and then spun the ngine around a few times and reinspected.

I will check & retorque the Rocker ARms once I run the engine, That is once I am done with my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action]

Some Pictures:

Valve Rocker Arms Pre Wicks - Engine Pict

Valve Rocker Arms Removed - Engine Pict

Valve Rocker Arms Removed - Rocker Arms on Bench Pict

Valve Rocker Arms Removed - Rocker Arms on Bench W/ Wicks Pict

Valve Rocker Arms Installed w/Wicks - Engine Pict

This should be it for the Valve Rocker Arm Wick Installation, If I have missed ANYTHING, or If there is anything that looks wrong, PLEASE let me know !!

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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Ok, got my Valve Cover back last night :)

Unfortunately he was UNABLE to weld up the punched holes due to the thinness of the metal. Actually looks like that over time moisture has set on the top inside of hte cover and slowly rusted and eaten away the metal. Maybe why Chevrolet Changed the design and installed the Vents to allow the moisture and air to escape preventing, or at least slowing down the erosion process.

A Few Picts of My Valve Cover Stripped:

Valve Cover Exterior Photo

Valve Cover Interior Photo

Valve Cover Bottom Pin Hole Photo

Valve Cover Top Pin Hole Photo

Now question is HOW can I fix this. I was thinking that I could use an Epoxy of sorts and BUILD the material back up on the top surface. Basically a nice thin coat, enought to build of the thickenss and fill in the pin holes. I was looking at:

Permatex Offerings:

Permatex® PermaPoxy™ 4 Minute Multi-Metal Epoxy Stick

Permatex® Cold Weld Bonding Compound

Loctite Offerings:

Loctite® Repair Putty Multi-Purpose

Loctite® Epoxy Weld™ Bonding Compound

Loctite® Metal Filled Epoxy Putty

JBWeld Offerings:

J-B Weld

KwikWeld

I really like the ones that are Petroleum Resistant and Cure Completely Hard. Do NOT want them coming lose and getting INTO the Engine.

Any thoughts or recommendations ??

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Ok, got my Oil Pan back last night :)

It looks great, ready for Prime & Paint, They did a good job filling int he pin holes and building up the material !!

Few Pictures of the Stripped & Repaired Oil Pan:

Oil Pan Exterior Pict 1

Oil Pan Exterior Pict 2

Oil Pan Interior Pict 1

Repair Close Up Oil Pan Trough Pict 1

Repair Close Up Oil Pan Trough Pict 2

Now need to prime & Paint the exterior, then will do a dipper clearance check to make sure dippers DO NOT hit!! Gonna do the Grease Method, fill troughs with grease and then install, spin engine, check clearances, adjust :) then I can install gasket and pan, and complete the bottom half of engine !!

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Well threw down some primer on the Oil Pan this weekend. Looking Good so far.

Oil Pan Primer Pict 01

Oil Pan Primer Pict 02

Oil Pan Primer Pict 03

Need to do a little touch up on the inside of the pan, then will coat it with either a lite oil coat or some CRC Protectant for now. Then will paint and finish up the outside and be ready to install !!

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Well threw down a few Coats of Primer on the Push Rod Cover then a few Coats of Engine Paint from The Filling Station. I am very pleased with the outcome and look of the Push Rod Cover !!

Push Rod Cover Pict 01

Push Rod Cover Pict 02

Push Rod Cover Pict 03

Need to finish up my engine work then I can reinstall the Push Rod Cover with New Gasket.

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Got some time this weekend to clean out the Center Main Bearing Oil Pockets. One of the pockets was PACKED FULL of sludge. Took my time and cleaned out each pocket and passage, then Blew it out with Cleaner and let dry. Then Filled the Main pocket up with oil and made sure it flowed across the other pockets and into the bearing. Also turned the engine over a few times to ensure the oil ran freely through the bearing and coated it.

Center Main Bearing Pocket Front Pict

Center Main Bearing Pocket Rear Pict

HOPEFULLY This completes my bottom half Clean Up and assessment. Now need to finish up the oil pan, get it painted, then install the Oil Pump Pick-Up Screen & Spring, Oil Pan Gasket, and then the Oil Pan.

Anything Else I missed on the Bottom Half ??

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Ok so I cleaned up and applied my first coat of Resin/ Epoxy to the inside of the Valve Cover.

Valve Cover Resin/ Epoxy Coat Pic 01

Valve Cover Resin/ Epoxy Coat Pic 02

Valve Cover Resin/ Epoxy Coat Pic 03

Will let it cure, clean it up, check it apply a second coat, repeat until it is built back up and pin holes gone ;)

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Well had some time last night to get back and work on the timing mainly the distributor & wires, after I Painted & Primed some parts, and applied some Resin/ Epoxy to my Valve Cover

I removed the Distributor, rotated it 180 degrees so that the Rotor points to the number with Piston 1 set at TDC (Top Dead Center), under compression, & Flywheel Timing Mark @ 12deg. Here is what my Distributor and Rotor Looks like at this setting: Rotor/ Distributor Pict. I also swapped my mixed up Plug Wires so they are now in the correct order for Firing 1-5-3-6-2-4.

Guess my next step would be to Set the Valve Clearances (COLD).

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Ok so I have applied my Epoxy Coat to the Inside of the Valve Cover, Allowed it to cure properly and then cleaned it up.

Valve Cover Internal Metal Build-Up 1

Valve Cover Internal Metal Build-Up 2

Applied a coat on the outside to fill in the 2 holes that were punch, sanded and smoothed over the surface

Valve Cover External Hole Fill-In

Need to put a prime coat on, check out how it looks and either put a little more filler or prime it over and paint it up for install ;)

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Decided to Put on a thin coat of Epoxy Sealer to fill in a few left over pin holes and imperfections.

Oil Pan Troughs

Then I let it cure properly, and put on a thin coat of CRC Protectant to protect from surface rust until it is painted and ready to install.

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Ok, Working on my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action] I am verifying the Dipper Depth into the Trough. From doing my homework, Reading the Forums & Owners Manuals, etc... It seems that the recommended depth for the Dipper to dip into the trough is roughly 15/64" or .234".

I did simple measuring, using straight edges, calipers, etc... and then confirmed/ verified my numbers by using the grease method :) Which was fun !!

Oil Pan Troughs Loaded up w/Grease

Oil Troughs after a Few Spins

Would like to know what the proper depth should be for the rod dippers into the oil troughs to ensure proper oiling of the rods...

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Had some time Sunday Night to install the Oil Pan Gasket !!

Did a test fit, made sure the Gasket Fit and laid propery against each other, and no interferences. Installed the Oil Pump Spring and Screen on Oil Pump 1929 Oil Pump (Identification & Replacement) I Read and then ReRead all the recommendations posted above about installing the gasket, and proceded as follows:

1-Cleaned Gasket Mating Surfaces on Oil Pan and on Engine Block, Made sure no debri, film, oil, etc...

2-Applied a thin coat of Grease to the Engine block to assist in holding the Oil Pan Gasket in Place

3-Screwed in my homemade Alignment/ Guide Pins Alignment/ Guide Pins

4-Installed and seated the Side Oil Pan Gaskets, made sure they seated properly against the Bearing Caps wear the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets will seat against them

5-Applied a Small Dab of Permatex 2 in the Corners where the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets will seat

6-Installed the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets in the bearing Caps, made sure htey were seated and aligned correctly Gaskets Installed Rear, Gaskets Installed Front

7-double checked all Oil Pan Gaskets to ensure holes are lined up, seated properly

8-Slowly & carefully installed the oil pan using the guide pins...

Man they work great to keep the pan straight and in line, 1.00" is optimal length when installing Oil Pan while Engine is in Car

9-Inserted 2 screws to hold and position oil pan in place.

10-Installed Slotted Round head Machine Screws .625" long, with a Flat Washer against Oil Pan, then a Split Lock Washer, gently hand tight to hold pan in place. Screwed in Place 1, Screwed in Place 2, Front bearing End Oil Pan,

11-assured everythign was lined up and in their proper location

12-Tightend up all screws

13-Doubled checked and cleaned up !! Oil Pan Installed

Looks Great !! So Happy this is done, puts me close to test firing the Engine and moving forward with my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action]. Another Check on the List of Completed !!

Need to move on the the next step...

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Still working on my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action]. Waiting on my Spark Plug Thread Chasing Tool to clean up the threads so I can TEst Fire and FInish the TUne-Up, so I decided to Install the Fuel Filter, Screen, & Gasket I got from The Filling Station A Few weeks back.

Some Pictures of the Process:

Clean & Prepped Fule Pump

Screen & Gasket

Paper Fuel Filter

Glass Bowl

Close Up of Lip/ Recess for Paper Filter in Glass Bowl

Paper Filter in Glass Bowl

Close Up of paper Filter Sitting in Glass Bowl Lip/Recess

Glass Bowl w/ Paper Filter & Gasket Ready for Install

Screen Installed in Fuel Pump

Gasket Installed In Fuel Pump

Complete Assembly Installed & Ready

This was a pretty Quick & Easy job overall...

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Took some time to look at the wiring on the 1929, I am trying to figure out HOW the wiring is supposed to be done for the headlights/ lamps on my 1929. I have the Armor Coated Wire from the NEW WIring harness routed to the front and in the wiring hold downs. I know that there is a Grommet that goes into the holes that are in the Radiator shell. These holes measure approx .781" Diameter. Here is a picture of the Wire from the Harness: Wiring for Driver's Side Headlight/ Lamp, it is three wires, with cloth insulation, as well as a metal wrap over the length. As for the Connectors, this is what I have: 3-Wire Housing Solder/ Button End, 3-Wire Housing Wire End I know the wires go thru, get soldered, like button ends for electrical connection, that is no problem. This is the Bayonet Connector Shell Shell/ Housing. I KNOw that slides on the Wire, and then slips over the 3-Wire Housing. Now I also have this piece, one end has a larger opening, and tapers to a smaller opening, we shall call this the Taper Adapter, Taper Adapter - Taper End (Large Opening) & Taper Adapter - Small Opening. Now I also was giving these, Metal Wire Looms/ Guards and told they gover over the wires to the COnnector End, basically run through the hole in the radiator shell w/ grommet, to back of headlight/ lamp. Metal Wire Looms/ Guards, They have a end cap on each end like this End Caps.

I am trying to FIGURE OUT HOW this is supposed to all go together. I have seen some with just the wire going through the Radiator Shell with the ARmour Guard, NO Metal Wire Looms/ Guards, then I have seen some with the Metal Wire Looms/ Guards installed. Also which way and how does the Taper Adapter MOunt, I know it goes on before the Boyenet COnnector, taper end towards bayonet connector or towards the wire ?? If I need the Metal Wire Looms/ Guards how are tehy secured/ mounted to the Connector End of the wire to secure them ?? and do they just run into through the grommet with extra length inside the shell for movement, or are they cut to length and stop at the grommet ??

Any Pictures of how this is SUPPOSED to go together would be greatly appreciated.

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Got my Push Rod Cover installed and sealed, letting it sit overnight and set up/ cure. Will take some pictures and post them later.

Spacer seemed to work fine, all new hardware installed as well. Looks good, should be ready to fire up this weekend !!

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Well needless to say I am estactic at this point. Finished up the initial phase of my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action], all the way to the Test Fire Engine/ Warm-Up Phase ;)

Friday Night, Installed the Push Rod Cover, got it all done, let it set up and seal overnight. Saturday Morning went out and double checked all my settings and ensured I had everything ready to go. Since I replaced the Fuel Pump Galss Bowl Screen, Gasket, and installed the paper fuel filter, i needed to make sure that fuel was flowing, as the bowl was empty. I turned over the engine a few times and watched for fuel to the bowl. Nothing... tried a few more times, nothing... scratched my head, and before tearing anythig a part, decided to pull off the glass bowl, double check everything, reseat the gasket, and bowl and tighten it back up. Turned over the engine and fuel was flowing, bowled filled up. One more check around the engine and I turned the key. After a little negotiated the gas, choke, and such the engine sputtered and came to life.

Youtube Video:

Now need to warm it up to operating temp, and then Hot Set the Valves & set the timing...

It did throw out some smoke and such, but after a few minutes, setteld down and mellowed out. Also need to adjust throttle & idle on the Carb.

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