BearsFan315 Posted March 27, 2019 Author Share Posted March 27, 2019 (edited) here are a few of the housings blasted and the guts removed from the LED housing this was a rough blast, they will be reblasted and cleaned up before going to paint Housings after they were rough blasted then sitting around in humidity, both are exact same housing Left will be for LED MOD and Right will be rebuild as stock back side of the housings this is the hardware removed from the housing and the original 1929 Glass lens Edited April 4, 2019 by BearsFan315 fixed picture rotation (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 27, 2019 Author Share Posted March 27, 2019 a picture of the NEW Lens kit and lens Kit Hardware, did NOT realize there were two different sizes of lens until i went to order from Gary Wallace... had to go measure my existing glass (it is chipped) to figure out which one i needed for the housings. luckily both housing are the same lens, so ordered 2 kits, this is jsut a picture of 1 kit, as they are identical !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 27, 2019 Author Share Posted March 27, 2019 here are some pictures of the housing back from paint, they look nice and shiny black... mask tape is still on part, will remove that when i go to assemble them. looking sharp and clean, ready for guts. on the original one, i may try to clean up and get a nice reflective coating on the reflector portion, hopefully this will REFLECT the light outwards vs absorbing it. the small incandescent bulbs do not put out a lot of light, so they need all the help they can get !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 27, 2019 Author Share Posted March 27, 2019 a few more picts of the housings... the LED housing looks kind of rough on the inside, but it is still a NICE SOLID piece, and not really concerned about the inside looks at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 27, 2019 Author Share Posted March 27, 2019 next I will start to rebuild the housings when i am done goal is to have both of them look exactly alike on the outside so that you can NOT tell the difference by just looking at them, only when they LIGHT up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 27, 2019 Author Share Posted March 27, 2019 sent out the wiper motor to paint with the rest of my parts and it is back ready for install along with the bracket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 27, 2019 Author Share Posted March 27, 2019 ok, i ended up getting a set of 1929 dust covers from a fellow VCCA member in great shape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 27, 2019 Author Share Posted March 27, 2019 i blasted the covers and then sent off to paint with all my other parts... all nice and black now, ready for install Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 28, 2019 Author Share Posted March 28, 2019 ok so looking at GROUNDING headlampsthe socket housings are ground for the bulbsthey are grounded to the reflectors via contact 7 spring clips that hold them in place against back of housingreflector contacts the housing via contact & clamp ringhousing is grounded to the headlight cross bar via contact (threaded stud into nut)cross bar is grounded to the fender via contact and hardware (nuts n bolts)Fenders grounded to frame via contact & hardware (nuts & bolts)do stanchions provide grounding via contact to fenders & then to frame ??if you use rubber pads under the crossbars does it reduce the grounding to fenders or about the same due to paint ??is this about right or am i missing something, as there is no ground wire to the headlamps only metal chassis ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 Unfortunately you are correct, that is the wonderful grounding system used on our old cars. They didn’t care too much for good paint back then. Carefully remove paint from under each component bolting hole and tighten securely. You can put small amount of dielectric grease to help conductivity and prevent corrosion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 1 hour ago, chistech said: dielectric grease to help conductivity and prevent corrosion I have always wondered what sort of grease this is. It turns out it aids conductivity by excluding air and corrosion. This is from https://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-dielectric-grease.htm "Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone-based grease that's designed to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. It also disrupts the flow of electrical current, which makes it good for lubricating and sealing the rubber parts of electrical connectors. It's commonly used in automotive spark plug wires, recreational and utility vehicles, and electrical systems in aircraft." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mereness Posted March 30, 2019 Share Posted March 30, 2019 May I suggest you paint the inside of the taillight housing Gloss White - helps with reflectivity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mereness Posted March 30, 2019 Share Posted March 30, 2019 Grounding: As a base point minimum, I have been soldering a ground wire to the bulb socket and then somewhere grounding to the base of the headlight (sometimes I solder, sometimes, I drill a hole and add a screw, and sometimes I replace a base rivet with a blind headed screw via www.restorationstuf.com). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 1, 2019 Author Share Posted April 1, 2019 thanks for the advice and info will consider them when i get to that point... especially ensuring a ground and reflective in the stock housing !! was going to try the chrome paint for the reflector in the tail light housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 1, 2019 Author Share Posted April 1, 2019 ok been working on my bumper, had to Straighten a 1929 Bumper Mounting Bracket as well as re arc the crossbars.then 1929 Bumper Groove Painting ordered new end bumper hardware and found a place that sold chrome hardware, so ordered new hardware for the medallions as well.spent some time to build the bumper this weekend.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 1, 2019 Author Share Posted April 1, 2019 (edited) few shots of assembling the front bumper Edited April 4, 2019 by BearsFan315 fixed text and image rotation (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 1, 2019 Author Share Posted April 1, 2019 (edited) the the rear, was similar, had to reshape the brackets...all new hardware for ends and medallions. Edited April 4, 2019 by BearsFan315 fixed picture rotation (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 1, 2019 Author Share Posted April 1, 2019 here they are all ready for installation !! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 4, 2019 Author Share Posted April 4, 2019 (edited) ok took some time tonight to assemble my splash apron. have to say the lil fasteners i created earlier are awesome and worked great. here are some shots of the assembly going together and the complete assembly.apron is now ready to be installed on the car !! Picture of my custom Hardware to replace the older T-Bolts that were not in my parts. Hardware sliding into the open groove, nice fit and free to slide hardware in groove ready to be installed on Apron apron complete with Chrome Strips and Hardware installed Close up of the left and right chrome strips and fresh black paint on Apron Close up of the rear side of the hardware. had to use a flat washer as the lock washer would pop through the holes in the sheet metal when trying to tighten. Edited April 4, 2019 by BearsFan315 fixed picture rotation (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 (edited) actually installed my rear bumpers today, as well as the signal lights i made up for the car. these are NOT factory but more for safety ( too many crazy drivers out there)used all new hardware as well, they look great, and notice the spare tire carrier is installed as well left side view showing brackets good angle view of left side bumper and signal/brake light head on view of left side bumper and signal/brake light head on view of right side bumper and signal/brake light angle view of right side bumper and signal/brake light Edited April 8, 2019 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 (edited) per a recommendation i painted the inside of the housing gloss white, it should help reflect the little bit of light that the bulbs put out i painted both the standard housing and the conversion LED housing. Tail Lamp housing that will be restored all original This is the LED housing Edited April 12, 2019 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 8, 2019 Author Share Posted April 8, 2019 (edited) got my stanchions from TFS and opened them up to start laying out and building my front end question, are they supposed to be straight up and down (90 degrees post to base) or should they be angled ?? mine are angled one more so then the other. attached are a few pictures of them stanchions side by side for comparison, yes lean to right stanchions top down, bases are square to each other, notice difference looking straight on, notice the angle difference stanchion 1 against the square stanchion 2 against the square Edited April 8, 2019 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 10, 2019 Author Share Posted April 10, 2019 updated on my painting insides... got a few coats of paint on them, all cured, and removed the tape... should be ready for rebuilding, and yes i will remove paint from target areas to ensure proper ground at least i hope here are a few of the Stock Housing Rebuild back of stock housing inside, gloss white background, silver reflector lower half for tail/parking light (original hardware) rear of stock housing angled Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 10, 2019 Author Share Posted April 10, 2019 Here are few of the LED conversion Housing inside, clean shiny white few angled views of inside back of LED housing, ready for original hardware to go back in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 21, 2019 Author Share Posted April 21, 2019 looking at bulbs, can someone help verifyManual says the tail lamp (lower lamp) is 3 candle power:#63base: Ba15sVolt: 7.0Amp: 0.63Watt: 4.41Candle Power: 3Life: 1000 hoursthen the STOP lamp (upper lamp) is a 15 candle power#87base: Ba15sVolt: 6.8Amp: 1.91Watt: 12.98Candle Power: 15Life: 300 hours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 21, 2019 Author Share Posted April 21, 2019 (edited) i went with these bulbs based on my notes and research actually got my Original Stop/Tail lamp built and almost ready for Install !! just need to mount it and test it.here are a the [pictures of the assembly, i bought the lens mounting kit for the clear lens. i also cleaned up the copper bars/strips, housing, etc to ensure a good clean ground and contact. A Look Inside before Bulbs Close Up of Tail Lamp Holder New Hardware for License Lens View of Clear License Lens NOS Lens, Gasket, Trim Ring New Clear License Plate Lens and Homemade Gasket New License Lens Installed with Gasket and NEW Hardware from Gary Wallace Close Up of Hardware, Gasket, and Lens Assembly Side View Angled View Tail Light Lens Edited April 23, 2019 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted April 21, 2019 Author Share Posted April 21, 2019 did a light CHECK as well to ensure the lights worked and there were NO issues at this point... everything worked like a charm i used a set of clips and connected ground to the mounting bolt, then touched the positive to one of hte two points inside the bayonet connector. Light Test: Parking/ License Lamp Light Test: Stop Lamp Light Test: Parking/ License Lamp & Stop lamp Light Test: Parking/ License Lamp Light Test: Stop lamp Light Test: Parking/ License Lamp & Stop lamp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S. Posted April 21, 2019 Share Posted April 21, 2019 Very nice work. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 spent some time planning out and working on the LED conversion for the other housing. goal was I want it to LOOK original with the standard socket and all. just different guts i was originally going to solder the wires directly to the brass/copper connectors on the socket, but as i got into it decided why NOT just shape them to fit a spade terminal !! this way i can unplug the wires and remove the LED board if needed for service, cleaning, etc... then i can trim the wires and solder and wrap the connectors onto the ends of the wires. one is tail, one for stop, and one for ground. put a lug on the ground then filed that to fit on the carriage bolt square. backside of connector, shaped them to fit a spade connector lens, gasket & hardware installed round lug filed to fit square of carriage bolt for ground LED board all connected and bracket secured, ready for install close up of Grounding Lug on Carriage Bolt LED Board & Wiring all secured and ready for lens, bezel, and gasket a rear view of connector and housing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 (edited) got it all assembled and looking good !! i am VERY happy with the results. Edited May 6, 2019 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 final light test of the LED board... this thing is BRIGHT !! View of the Tail Light Lit up View of the Stop Light Lit up View of the License Plate Lights Lit Up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 (edited) finally here are a few shots of them side by side for comparison. They are 2 different lens, so they do look a little different. one is a NOS RELITE one is a Repro I am pretty happy with them, i do have the stickers to apply to the glass to make it look more original. also gonna keep eye out on the Celluloid lens just in case. now to install ONE on the car and move forward with restoration... front, top down view top angle view bottom angle view back view right side left side pretty hard to tell them apart unless you look inside the plate lens to see the guts !! and that is what i want Edited May 6, 2019 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lahti35 Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 Looking good! That is bright!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 7, 2019 Author Share Posted May 7, 2019 cleaned up the lens and put on the CHEVROLET decal from TFS on my Original Tail/Stop Housing Decal Applied with Tail Light on Brake Light On Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 8, 2019 Author Share Posted May 8, 2019 finally mounted the NEW data serial plate to the floor panel where the original one was installed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 10, 2019 Author Share Posted May 10, 2019 got the Stop/Tail Lamp Assembly installed last night will have to test it next to ensure there is a GOOD ground !! really starting to come together side view, you can see the signal lights as well head on shot with armor cable side view rear view of taillight and connection looking up from below general shot of taillamp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 11, 2019 Author Share Posted May 11, 2019 Installed the Crank Hole Cover tonight on the Radiator Apron, this is the one i got from TFS and produced by C&P Automotive. it is very nicely done and fits good. also glad that the blacks match. was a simple easy install !! and looks GREAT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 11, 2019 Author Share Posted May 11, 2019 broke out my NOS lens and cleaned them up to get ready to assemble the headlamps front of box rear of box part number on front of box close-up of lens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 11, 2019 Author Share Posted May 11, 2019 got most of my parts sorted on the bench for assembly one headlamp minus reflector bucket armor cable, pigtail, clamp lens, gasket, ring washer, nut, clamps small hardware assembly line 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 12, 2019 Author Share Posted May 12, 2019 can someone validate the thread diameter and thread per inch for the 1929 hub cap and mating thread.unfortunately my thread gauge will not FIT in the area to measure it. looks to be approx 2-3/8" diameter. my thread gauge is the L-type worked great till now and it is too big @!gonna have to order another thread pitch gauge (smaller compact style)any easy way to chase the threads inside the cap to clean them up any ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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