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Crazy4cruz

1965 Riviera Door Skin

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Is there any thing I need to be aware of when attempting to remove the door skin from my 65 other than the obvious removal of the nuts around the inside edge of the door? Does interior door panel need to be removed first? And what if some of the nuts appear to be turning but not loosening? What then? Thanks.

Richard T

ROA# 13812

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the interior door panel wont need any attention unless its the driver side with mirror(unfasten at remote lever base)-on the spinning bolts youll have to figure something out with those-maybe someone will chime in on trick for those.T.Nugent...

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The interior door panel does not need to be removed. If you're taking off the driver's door and have the remote mirror, you'll need to disconnect the cables from the toggle. Make sure you mark them someway so that you'll install them correctly when you put it back together. Before starting to take the nuts off, soak them liberally for a good length of time in some kind of rust dissolver (PB blaster e.g.) You'll need to take off the small stainless strip under the wing window. The screw is on the front of the strip; slide the strip off to the front. That will expose some screws on the top of the door skin that also need to be removed. The door handle stays on the skin. There are numerous ways to put pressure on the T-bolts; just be careful of the paint - as if I needed to tell you that. :)

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Thanks for the information. Especially the small chrome strip under the wing window. I definitely would not have thought about that. It is the driver door but the remote mirror as well as the door handles have been shaved so no issues there.

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Ed, thanks but no. I love the hood with it's long chrome spear just the way it is. I actually wish mine hadn't been shaved as I would prefer a slightly more original look. But I couldn't pass on this car and the price was right. The guy I bought it from gave me the mirror (no handles) but installing it means drilling through the paint and door skin and I don't know that I feel quite that ambitious. This is, after all, my baby. :D

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OK Riviera People: This is a wee bit off topic but I thought I'd throw it in the conversation. When reconditioning door panels it doesn't matter if you are doing the blocking yourself because the labor is your own but......if you are paying a body shop make sure you have the cleanest sheet metal possible. These can have minor dents and lots of door dings that can add up to lots of labor as well as lots of bondo, which could be a concern down the road. There are differences in the location of the holes for the outside rear view mirrors other wise they are the same. The door skins are available for reasonable so you can really speed up a project as well as save bucks and have a cleaner job. Examine the outside because the inside has that tar hamburger helper from the factory and a ton of small dings might not be noticeable. Mitch

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Richard T-I don't think anyone answered your question about how to manage the t bolts spinning...but not loosening in the door skins. I was talking my skins on and off more times than I'd like to admit. The trick to stopping the spinning is to trap the t part which is captured in the skin sheet metal. If it is spinning, it means the t is loose inside the sheet metal and either the t bolt is corroded or the sheet metal holder is stretched. Here's what I found: If your paint is marginal or bad...just take a set of vise-grips, wrap the jaws with tape and lock the grips on either side of the bolt with one side on the outer skin and one on the inside. My paint was so bad for years, it didn't matter if the grips left a small mark. Since I got my car painted and I'm feeling more precious about it, I've changed my technique. I got one of those carpenter clamps that looks like a big clothes pin with rubber on the jaws. It is strong, but the jaws are coated so they won't mar the paint. All you need is a little pressure to keep the t from spinning. Once you get the skin off, I'd suggest crimping the t holders a little to avoid future spinning. It worked for me...hope that helps. PRL

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Pete, you are a brute! Vice grips on a Riv door?!?

I just slip the tip of a small screwdriver up in there between the door skin and the door body. Keep pressure in on the T-screw and it won't turn as you back off the nut.

When installing, use a small bean size piece of black dumdum in the screw head slot of the skin to keep the screw from falling out as you position the skin back on the door. If the threads are clean and oiled, the T-screw will not want to turn as you tighten.

Here I am giving away all my secrets!!!

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I did Jim's trick but with a 6-in-1 tool. Just need enough outward pressure to keep the T from spinning. I also ran a tap and a die to clean up all the threads so I wouldn't need new pieces.

Mike

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I also ran a tap and a die to clean up all the threads so I wouldn't need new pieces.

Mike

I thought that was my secret. A little PB Plaster and the correct tap and die and you can run them up finger tight. Makes life sweet.

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Just to make sure that a Swede got it right.

I dont need to remove the inside?

The mirror is stuck to the skin, idont have a remote mirror.

The door handle is stuck to the skin also the keylock.( Idont know if the key lock is the right word but i am sure you know what i meen)

I need to adjust (tilt it to the inside) the window when its not quit tightly.

Best regards

Janne Sweden

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Here are a couple shots of my recent doors. You can see that the skins have the mirrors and handle - you do have to remove the mirror control from the inside of the door. That is the correct way to adjust the glass - with the skins off.

Take it from a Norwegian, you are on the right track. :D

Mike

post-74569-143141949483_thumb.jpg

post-74569-143141949469_thumb.jpg

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