Taylormade

The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL

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On 15/07/2017 at 5:29 AM, keiser31 said:

This one shows a bolt in the hole....

BB1.jpg

 

Not  a bad pic of my missus legs...:)

I purchased this from  a bloke who asked me if I wanted a vacuum port in the bb1. I thought he had tapped that hole.

I use it for tuning with a vacuum gauge.

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Is this heat ever going to stop?  It was 103 degrees today in central Illinois, with humidity in the nineties.  I tried to get my back fenders on, but honestly almost passed out from the stifling temperatures in my garage - doors open and three fans going.  Very depressing as I'm very close to buttoning up the exterior.  I have all hardware cleaned and painted, new fender welt ready to go, all paintwork finished, but it's just impossible to get much done without cooking myself alive.  I wish I could afford an air conditioned garage.

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Finished up my running boards.  All new steel made by Thomas Restorations, trim from L and L, rubber from Restoration Supply.  It was a bit fiddly getting everything together - lots of grinding and fitting on the end peices, but everything came out pretty good.  Still needs lots of polishing to get rid of the assembly fingerprints, and the rubber needs cleaning, but they are about ready to be installed.

 

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Really nice work!  You have given me the incentive to "cope" those end pieces like the originals.

Did you glue the mat in place?

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1 hour ago, frank29u said:

Really nice work!  You have given me the incentive to "cope" those end pieces like the originals.

Did you glue the mat in place?

 

I used contact cement and a rubber roller.  It seemed to work pretty well.

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Not exactly rocket science and pretty boring, but here is how I finished my running boards.

 

after I cut the rubber mat to size. I clamped half of the rubber in place, making sure everything was lined up.

IMG_0289.thumb.jpg.a807eadbbf0907b478d285df22195d84.jpg

 

Then I folded the free rubber back.

 

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Brushed on high strength contact cement after i roughed the surface of the powder coat with sandpaper.

 

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I let the cement dry for 20 minutes, then rolled it down with a rubber roller.

 

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After the cement dried for a few hours with a piece of wood clamping  down the rubber...

 

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...I reversed the process.

 

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I let everything dry for a few days and it came out great.

 

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Next came the trim pieces.  L and L provided these clips to attach the front trim piece.

IMG_0301.thumb.jpg.f83b03af40e0c1c99021d564f642bb79.jpg

 

They fit in slots in the running board.  Luckily, Ed Thomas, who made new boards for me included the slots!

 

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Next I slipped the front trim piece on.

 

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Now came the most difficult part of the job - bending the tab on the bottom of the trim piece over the bottom of the running board and the clips.  I got it started with a few careful blows with a hammer.

 

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After I got it started, I was able to carefully fold it tight with a pair of vise-grips and a wood block to protect the outer surface of the trim.

 

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Then I fitted the side pieces.  They come flat and don't fit the contour of the front trim piece at all.

 

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So I had to carefully file the correct contour into them.

 

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It still needs the bottom edge to be bent under and some polishing and smoothing before final assembly.

 

 

Edited by Taylormade (see edit history)

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20 hours ago, Taylormade said:

Next came the trim pieces.  L and L provided these clips to attach the front trim piece. . .

 

Your workmanship is so much better than mine. I wish you were the person assembled my car instead of me.

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Good news and bad news today.  First the good -  I got all the bolts, nuts and washers for the running board assembly painted.  They're black, but look gray in the photos.  i painted them first as they are easier to touch up after assembly.  I really wanted to use the original DB bolts, but 90 percent of them broke during disassembly.  I used grade 8 with the markings ground off.

 

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It was amazing to see the running boards drop into place.  All 24 bolt holes lined up perfectly.  Considering the amount of damage to all four fenders, it was wonderful to see everything fit like a glove with no problems at all.  it's also amazing how much more it looks like a car with the running boards in place.

 

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The bad new came as it tried to install the fender welt.  The stuff I bought - through a recommended vendor, highly praised on the site - turned out to be junk.  it may work for routine fender curves, but not for the application on my car.  it was stiff, barely attached together with a cheap plastic "rope" in the middle.  Any attempt to bend it resulted in the fabric bunching up in a wadded mess.  This creates a real problem as the welting separating the running boards from the fenders has to be curved at almost a 90 degree angle to work correctly.  These two shots of welting on an original Dodge Brothers DL illustrate the situation.

 

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The welting I have simply won't make those bends without wrinkling up, despite cutting slots. v shapes and everything else that's supposed to do the trick.  My welting is supposed to be lacquered cloth, but it looks like cheap vinyl to me.  Looks like I'll have to try and find the correct stuff or go with rubber welt from Steele.

 

 

 

 

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Do I need to send you the stuff that I have so you can finish that car? I will gladly send the two rolls I posted photos of and you can choose from those which you prefer to use. I can't see me using that stuff any time soon. Neither has that crappy plastic in it. It's the good old style stuff.

Picture 22302.jpg

Picture 22305.jpg

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)

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Well, I got the fender welt from John (keiser31) and it's far superior to the junk I bought.  However, try as I might, I just can't get a smooth reverse bend into the welt.  No matter how much I work it, v-notch or slit the material, it wrinkles on any reverse bend.  You can see the top bend is fine, but the lower, reverse bend, wrinkles horribly (like a prune!).

 

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If you compare it to an original car (same area) you can see the original welt was very smooth, despite the break in the welt.

 

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I'm going to try heat to see if it will smooth out the bend, but I'm not optimistic.  it's always the little stuff that drives you crazy!

Edited by Taylormade (see edit history)

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Rats, indeed.  I can only surmise  that the original welt was some sort of fabric and not vinyl, and this made it pliable enough to bend in both directions.

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49 minutes ago, Taylormade said:

Rats, indeed.  I can only surmise  that the original welt was some sort of fabric and not vinyl, and this made it pliable enough to bend in both directions.

I'll bet it was an oilcloth of some sort or maybe like the original roof material.

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I wonder if just the opposite of your idea would work. Try soaking some in water so that the inner rope will stretch a little as you bend it.

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I think the problem is that the covering "sticks" to the rope. The cover needs to stretch along the rope. Is there a vinyl rejuvenation product that will soften the vinyl but not t actually attack it?

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

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The problem is the vinyl is not stretching on a reverse curve but jamming into a smaller space.  It has nowhere to go and simply starts jamming up in a wrinkled bunch.  It looks like I have several alternatives - welt that is sewn along the edge of the inner rope, or rubber welt.  I'm not sure if either would work any better.  I can't find a source for fabric or oilcloth welding.

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Maybe a series of small, triangular cuts where it bunches up and glue the slits after removing the triangular/bunched up pieces.

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