Buick 59 Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 If Homosote is indeed impregnated with Creosote, it will have a distinct odor that will likely concentrate in the confines of a closed car. Might want to get a good whiff of it before purchasing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 No Creosote in the stuff I bought - odorless and white. Even after cutting and shaping, no odor as all. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Here are some shots of the Homosote cut and in place on the two floorboards. It proved to be easy to cut with a jigsaw. I cleaned up the edges with sandpaper. These panels were originally black, so I'm going to give them a quick coat of H-Temp flat black. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 While crawling around under my car checking on the leak from the bottom of the timing cover (tightening the bolts seems to have almost stopped the problem, nothing is dripping or flowing, but I still can see a tiny bit of oil seeping) I discovered another problem. My brake lines are still leaking around the banjo fittings. This after I got new copper washers and annealed them so they would crush properly. I found an article on this problem and they recommended these washers... Funny, since I just bought some smaller ones for my transmission leak problem. Has anyone tried these on brake fittings? The article, from The Toolbox site, says they work every time. They have no skin in the game and do not advertise this product, so maybe it's legit. I have silicon brake fluid in the system, and I suspect this may be part of the problem. I have heard it is more prone to leak than conventional fluid. Nothing else in the system leaks, all my brake line fittings (which I made and flared myself) are fine. Same with the master cylinder. It's an ongoing and annoying problem, so I may give these washers a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 OK, I take my doubt back about Homosote. The web site says " Homasote products are non-toxic, wax emulsified for moisture- and mold-resistance and integrally protected against termites and fungi". Sounds good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 (edited) Celetex is an exterior sheathing that is impregnated with a creosote type material and also looks like the original insulator pad. Homosote, to my knowledge was always white and for interior use. We used to make platform boards for toy trains with it.Neither product is in high usage today. Glad to hear that it worked for you! Edited September 7, 2018 by jpage (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 7 hours ago, Taylormade said: While crawling around under my car checking on the leak from the bottom of the timing cover (tightening the bolts seems to have almost stopped the problem, nothing is dripping or flowing, but I still can see a tiny bit of oil seeping) I discovered another problem. My brake lines are still leaking around the banjo fittings. This after I got new copper washers and annealed them so they would crush properly. I found an article on this problem and they recommended these washers... Funny, since I just bought some smaller ones for my transmission leak problem. Has anyone tried these on brake fittings? The article, from The Toolbox site, says they work every time. They have no skin in the game and do not advertise this product, so maybe it's legit. I have silicon brake fluid in the system, and I suspect this may be part of the problem. I have heard it is more prone to leak than conventional fluid. Nothing else in the system leaks, all my brake line fittings (which I made and flared myself) are fine. Same with the master cylinder. It's an ongoing and annoying problem, so I may give these washers a try. I’ve always used the dowty seals when I can - brakes, oil, fuel - and never had a problem. Ive also found with Cooper washers they are not always that soft from new and sometimes re-annealing them can make a big difference. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted September 7, 2018 Author Share Posted September 7, 2018 I re-annealed my copper washers - they still leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 (edited) I'm working on the wood floors of the body. It seems strange that they still used wood for the flooring in 1932, but it is what it is. I would have loved to use the original floors (there are four pieces) but I couldn't. The tops of the pieces is in pretty good shape, but at some point a previous owner had the bottom of the car sprayed with some sort of asphalt rustproofing and this stuff is impossible to get off. It clogs up any type of sandpaper I've tried to use, and heat is only going to set the wood on fire. Nice top surface... Crummy bottom... Plus the floorboard around the transmission area was badly degraded by years of water leaking through the cowl vents. You can see the delaminating plywood. I'm cutting the new floor pieces out of marine plywood, which uses waterproof glue and is designed to stand up against moisture and wet conditions. Edited September 27, 2018 by Taylormade (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted September 27, 2018 Author Share Posted September 27, 2018 Now that I have the four blanks cut out, it's time to do some routing, shaping and drilling to get them ready. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted September 28, 2018 Share Posted September 28, 2018 If those wood pieces are like my 1931 pieces, they are covered with hardened drive line grease, oil and transmission fluid and probably not asphalt roofing stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted September 28, 2018 Author Share Posted September 28, 2018 You may be correct on that. It’s a mess, whatever the gunk is! I always assumed it was some sort of protective coating, but the more I think about it, the more I think you’re right. I should have learned by now - never assume anything when you’re restoring a car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 32DL6 Posted September 29, 2018 Share Posted September 29, 2018 Maaaybe, but that stuff was so evenly coated on most of the underside that I always assumed (like you) that it was some sort of aftermarket undercoating. Usually stuff from a leak shows a pattern originating from the source. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted September 29, 2018 Author Share Posted September 29, 2018 You both may be correct. Phil is correct, the stuff is evenly coated and rock hard. But the concave metal plate screwed to the rear-most floorboard is loaded with grease, that also splattered over some of the floorboard. This deposit appears to have been donated by a leaking differential, or, possibly, the rear ball joint. So, keiser31 may be correct, also. Either way, it’s a mess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted October 3, 2018 Author Share Posted October 3, 2018 (edited) Got the three rear most floorboards cut out and routed the edges. The rear floorboard has the mounting holes drilled and the cutout for the differential plate. The attaching edges are routed for an overlapping fit. I still haven't sanded the edges, cut out the battery access, or cleaned things up. The routing was done on my Bosch router table. I was worried about tear-out on the plywood, but I got very clean cuts on all the boards. Each floorboard has a mounting pad made of wood, and attached to each short end, that rests on the top of the frame rail. The wood is 1-1/8" thick, three inches and a quarter inches wide, and the length of the floorboard. Getting lumber of that dimension proved impossible. Rather than having a sawmill plane it for me, I bought some oak from a big box store and glued two pieces together. This gives me a chunk of wood 1-1/4" thick and 3-1/2 wide. I'll use my router to knock off an eight of an inch of the thickness and a quarter inch off the width, and then I can cut the resulting stock to the correct lengths. I should have everything wrapped up by tomorrow evening. Edited October 3, 2018 by Taylormade (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted October 9, 2018 Author Share Posted October 9, 2018 The results are in, the Stat-O-Seal washers did the job on my leaking brake connections. Once I installed them, the leaking stopped - period. Not a drop of fluid anywhere. They are a combination crush washer and rubber seal. Don't get the steel variety, get the aluminum, as they act as a crush washer and rubber seal. I got mine from Speedway Motors. I needed two sizes, one for the outer part of the banjo bolt and the other for the threaded section. I also got most of the floor spacers done for the floorboards. They rest on the frame and keep the actual floorboards at the correct level. Here you can see the old and the new. The holes in the old piece are there to clear rivets and bolts on the frame. I haven't drilled them yet on the new spacers. Sitting in place on the bottom of the floorboards. The old floorboards before I removed them from the car. And the new ones partially finished. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 Beautiful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 Excellent work....and saw the video of the engine start.....well done. Been off the forum for a while and just started back on the car now everything has settled down. Should be posting again soon. Cheers Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 Starting and running the engine a few times and some minor problems have cropped up. The oil pressure is running 65 pounds, which I think is too high. Looks like I may have to adjust the pressure relief valve. I found a small oil leak at the bottom of the timing chain cover. I tightened the cover bolts and it seems to have stopped the leak. I certainly hope so, as the thought of having to replace the cover gasket is not something I want to consider. I also found a leak around the pressure relief valve cover - which is more of a screw on domed fitting in the side of the block. This will need some investigating. I’m not sure if there is a gasket involved or just the tightness of the unit being screwed tight into the block is supposed to be sufficient. If I have to adjust the pressure relief valve, I guess I’ll find out as that cover is how you access it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 There may have been a very thin gasket around the domed base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 Had to make a gasket for mine ,doing same oozing . Counter clockwise nut to lower your pressure , after removing cotter pin . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 Is there a gap between the cover and the block? I don’t think mine is screwed all the way in. Any pictures would help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Taylormade said: Is there a gap between the cover and the block? I don’t think mine is screwed all the way in. Any pictures would help. Here is the cover on my 1931....I suppose a wire brush would have helped a bit.... Edited November 3, 2018 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunsmoke Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 (edited) I think there should be a gap (about 1/16") showing between dome hex nut and block surface, at least there is on my CD8 block. Mine has a copper washer (about 1/16" thick) sitting in the slight recess in the block, and the round mating surface of the dome nut fits tight against it. The copper washer is only about 1/8" wide, don't know if any are available, probably could make one out of any suitable material. My car's operation manual says oil pressure relief valve should never need adjusting, and has lots of cautionary advice. Gauge may be giving a misread. Before adjusting pressure, try another gauge or pressure device, a relatively easy test. Just hook a temporary gauge to outlet coming from block. Edited November 4, 2018 by Gunsmoke (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted November 4, 2018 Author Share Posted November 4, 2018 My engine rebuilder said it might need adjusting. Not sure why he thought so - I’m giving him a call Monday. I used a new temporary gauge, not the original, to test the oil pressure. I’ll try the original gauge and see what that reads. At least I have too much pressure rather than not enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 Not sure what the spec is for these engines but 65lbs doesn’t sound like a big issue if it’s cold. Takes quite a while to get the oil up to temperature and it’s likely to be quite different then. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 My 29 runs up around 70-75 cold and around 50 once warmed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 17 hours ago, Gunsmoke said: I think there should be a gap (about 1/16") showing between dome hex nut and block surface, at least there is on my CD8 block. Mine has a copper washer (about 1/16" thick) sitting in the slight recess in the block, and the round mating surface of the dome nut fits tight against it. The copper washer is only about 1/8" wide, don't know if any are available, probably could make one out of any suitable material. My car's operation manual says oil pressure relief valve should never need adjusting, and has lots of cautionary advice. Gauge may be giving a misread. Before adjusting pressure, try another gauge or pressure device, a relatively easy test. Just hook a temporary gauge to outlet coming from block. I see about 1/16" gap on my '31. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 (edited) 53 minutes ago, Mattml430 said: My 29 runs up around 70-75 cold and around 50 once warmed up. Wow, that is high. Way too high in my uninformed opinion. What oil are you running? Thick (higher viscosity) oil leads to high pressure and low flow. I hope you are not taking Penrite's advice and running their 20W-70. That is far to thick for a "new" engine. Use what it was designed for, probably SAE 30 so use a 0 or 5W-30 (once run in). Edited November 4, 2018 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 On 11/4/2018 at 7:01 AM, Taylormade said: The oil pressure is running 65 pounds, I agree it is too high. What oil are you running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 On 11/5/2018 at 6:09 AM, Spinneyhill said: Wow, that is high. Way too high in my uninformed opinion. What oil are you running? Thick (higher viscosity) oil leads to high pressure and low flow. I hope you are not taking Penrite's advice and running their 20W-70. That is far to thick for a "new" engine. Use what it was designed for, probably SAE 30 so use a 0 or 5W-30 (once run in). I’m using a 25W 50 mineral oil. I’ll take your advice and use a lighter oil. I’ll put some 5W 30 in it and give some feedback on the oil pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 It has been a while. How are you doing? How is Daphne? Merry Christmas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 Hanging in there and trying to lose some weight before I have knee replacement surgery. I actually got my newly reupholstered front seat back a few weeks ago and I’ll post some pictures after the holidays. I’ve also completed all the wood floorboards and am waiting for a warm day to paint them. I’m also working inside, wiring my headlights and cowl lights. It’s very difficult to get around at the moment with bone on bone arthritis in my right knee, but I am making progress - mostly from a seated position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 Trying to loose weight over Christmas. Now there is a challenge! hope you have better luck (willpower?) than me. Good luck and Seasons Greetings anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted December 26, 2018 Share Posted December 26, 2018 Ouch! That is a serious challenge at this time of year. Keep your eye on the ball! It is very good to hear you are keeping busy through the pain. It must have been exciting to receive the new seat. All the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 As I said earlier I picked up my front seat from the upholstery shop. Looks good. The new wood base I made fits perfectly which was a relief. It was hard to get a straight on shot due to current storage in my living room corner and the parallax makes the top buttons look crooked - which they are not. I'm working on my headlight wiring which was in rough shape. This is the wiring section inside the headlight itself. The socket on the left is for the bulb, the one on the right fits into a receptacle in the headlight shell and connects to the wire that goes through a chrome conduit and through the fender. As you can see, the wires are totally shot. The plastic coated wires indicate that this has been rewired in the past. The wires run into the socket through the fiber spacers and one wire through each of the two springs inside. Everything, with the exception of the wires, just needed to be cleaned up and reassembled. I have a question concerning the replacement of the wiring. This setup has the usual wire running to the raised buds or bumps that are contact points. I would like to save the original parts if possible, or am I making a mistake and should I go with replacements at this point? I assume the wire is soldered into to these tips, but I'm amazed how clean the joint is. I see virtually no signs of solder anywhere. Is there a narrow post extending down from the tip the the end of the wire surrounds and then everything is soldered? Do I need to be careful when I loosen this joint? I don't want to melt the tip in the process. Any advice here would be welcome. I also noticed the the wire insulation covered everything right to the base of the tip. I can see pulling the insulation back when making the first solder, then pushing it back up when finished. But the second set would seem to be a problem as the wire is short and I doubt the stiffness of the insulation would allow me to pull it back enough to solder. Let me know what you think. As I've stated before, electrical wiring is not my strong point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 I think that lead lump was cast onto the end of the wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 Then maybe the wiring was original. I guess it must have mummified into what made me think it was plastic. So, now what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 10 minutes ago, keiser31 said: I think that lead lump was cast onto the end of the wire. I think so to. I just made some big lumps of solder on mine, been working okay for a few decades now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 We know that you sit on that seat in your living room and make car noises. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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