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1930 DA-124


30DodgePanel

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As many of us do, I have a tendancy to save info that pertains to my truck when I see items for sale or discussion that takes place, and at the time, I noticed that brochure for sale on the big board so I saved the pic for my personal research cause I knew the truck was similar to mine. You mentioned that you thought you had purchased the brochure here:

http://forums.aaca.org/f143/3-4-ton-db-parts-list-330080-3.html on post #57

The 3/4 ton parts list does mention 2 tail light bracket bolts (bracket to frame) part# 121661, 2 nuts part #121971 and 2 lock washers part#120214 per vehicle so that tells me these two holes to the rear could very well be the mounting location of the tail light bracket as seen in this photo below.

This is from the donor truck in Wisconsin

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EDIT:

This photo below of the donor truck in Wisconsin also has the same matching holes on the opposite side of the frame btw as my truck does. I only bring that up to point out it was more than likely just something they did at the factory incase the frame was to be a RHD export vehicle ? I'm just guessing...

I have not seen anything to indicate that any of these trucks from this time period had dual tail lamp assemblies.

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Dave, I am going to assume this is not a 124 chassis, what is it than? Curious

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Dave, I am looking at photos of Des and BEs ect and they are very poor at best, dark and small back in that corner, they do look the same however. I sent you an e-mail with a contact number of someone I believe can help you since he has the same truck.

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Yes the DA 120 has the same tail light as my DE.

Both chassis frames are identical and I used the DA frame for my project. The Other frame was badly damaged in a previous accident.

It appears to me the DA 124 frame is quite a different animal than mine. Both have the gusset plates attached to the main rear crossmember but The DA 124 has about a 1 foot extension pass the main crossmember with the gusset plates. My tail light bracket would work here.

Dave- I would be curious if the other place to mount the tail light may be for a export truck. Dodge built frame to be used as export also (for example the steering and brake mount). The question is the single tail light on the export truck placed on opposite side as US truck?

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Dave, I am going to assume this is not a 124 chassis, what is it than? Curious

Just guessing I'd say it's a 4 cyl G series 32-33 model

UG-30, 31, 43, 44,

or the UGS-50, 55

Heres the truck. I'm salvaging what I can off of it but it's in very rough shape. I've been ordering parts from him for the last 6 months and once the weather breaks I'll be sending for more. Not the cheapest way to go about it I know but finding original parts is not easy so once I find them I tend to get as much as I can. He has a complete 4 cylinder and trans I hope to see someone put to use but I can't afford to ship or otherwise it would be mine now. Never mind the arrows and yellow notes, those were for other research.

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Dave- I would be curious if the other place to mount the tail light may be for a export truck. Dodge built frame to be used as export also (for example the steering and brake mount). The question is the single tail light on the export truck placed on opposite side as US truck?

Yes the other side was for export vehicles I believe part #20871 for the U-124 export. Thats why I'm curious to see what George has. Thanks again for the pics Sherman they've helped a great deal.

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Here, this is the condition of the metal of the truck in Wisconsin just to give everyone an idea of how far gone it is. Still salvagable to the right person I suppose, but I can only justify retaining parts myself. I paid for the mirror to be shipped just so I could see what it looked like in person, I don't care what condition the parts are in as long as I can identify them 100 % (the mirror is toast) . I've also purchase door handles, and the correct wiper motor which I believe is very hard to find. We've made an agreement for other parts such as the Steering wheel & column with levers, instrument panel, & spare tire carrier now that I know what I need.

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QUOTE=30DodgePanel;1147939]Here, this is why I need the answers for the tail light mounting location and the rear cross member.

These pics are of my truck, hard to get to right now and hard to see but this shows holes on both sides of the frame that are similar. The larger square carrier bolt holes underneath are for the spare tire carrier, but are the 2 horizontal holes on the side of my frame for matching tail light brackets ? If so, it looks like this truck may have been equipped with dual tail lights because both sides of the frame have those matching holes. Also, at the very rear of the frame are 2 smaller holes on each side frame rail that I wonder if those are how a rear cross member is suppose to mount ?

Edit: Sherman, I know your spare tire carrier mounts on the sides but in regards to the rear cross member, does yours show the 2 smaller holes under the frame at the very end , is that how your cross member bolts up or is it riveted possibly ?

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I just went out to my "bone yard" took a picture of whats left of my S 114xxx DE frame. I believe the DE and the DA 120 had the same frame.

These are rivet connections.

There are two smaller holes that mounts the tire carrier leg and a single larger hole for the tail light wire.

This picture shows the gusset plate passenger side frame rail attached to the rear crossmember. The extra metal piece is an add on exhaust pipe bracket.

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I just went out to my "bone yard" took a picture of whats left of my S 114xxx DE frame. I believe the DE and the DA 120 had the same frame.

These are rivet connections.

There are two smaller holes that mounts the tire carrier leg and a single larger hole for the tail light wire.

This picture shows the gusset plate passenger side frame rail attached to the rear crossmember. The extra metal piece is an add on exhaust pipe bracket.

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Thanks Sherman for posting the pics, your helping alot. Man, that photo made me cringe though.... that's brutal but I'm sure as you said the frame was not salvagable. It's still helping even though the ole girl gave it up....

I noticed the Dodge Brothers Plate on the cross member ... very grateful. I don't know if I'll need that because I'm still unsure if my frame came with the same rear cross member and gussets but if I do, would you be willing to send that over as well with the other parts we've discussed ?

Sure seems like those gussets are needed but the location of the Badge on mine is throwing me.

I believe the DE and DA 120 are the same as well from all indications but I honestly haven't concentrated my research there yet for obvious reasons, you would know better than anyone.

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Thanks Sherman for posting the pics, your helping alot. Man, that photo made me cringe though.... that's brutal but I'm sure as you said the frame was not salvagable. It's still helping even though the ole girl gave it up....

I noticed the Dodge Brothers Plate on the cross member ... very grateful. I don't know if I'll need that because I'm still unsure if my frame came with the same rear cross member and gussets but if I do, would you be willing to send that over as well with the other parts we've discussed ?

Sure seems like those gussets are needed but the location of the Badge on mine is throwing me.

I believe the DE and DA 120 are the same as well from all indications but I honestly haven't concentrated my research there yet for obvious reasons, you would know better than anyone.

Is this your frame for the DA 124? If so the main rear cross member (closet to the differential) has gusset plates shown. The other rear cross member is not a main support.

Not to sure my rear crossmember works for your application.

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Sorry it has taken so long to reply. Been extremely busy here. But here goes.

Tail light bracket on my 1930 U133 and 1931 U124 are the same bracket. Someone straightened the 1931, but you can tell it was bent 90 degrees originally. Both are mounted in two holes in rear of frame. Both sides of frame have same holes. I think for export as was said earlier. All three of my trucks are missing what I believe to be the original light. However, the mounting holes on a type B light don't fit in my brackets. I have an idea that the original truck light was a smaller red light without a chrome grill, but have nothing to prove that. I have one that came with the 1931, but have not had time to research.

Dodge Brothers plate is on second to last cross member on my 1930 U133. It is a different suze than the later hood side plates. It is also mounted with 5 rivets. 4 corners and in the middle. My plate exists but cannot be read. U133 also has the cross member at end of frame.

1931 U124 has no plate. And has no cross member at end of frame.

Frame picture is of the 1931. Also, notice the copper fitting on the 1931 bracket. It has wire in it. Assume some sort of conduit for the light wiring. The 1930 bracket does not have a hole for this.

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Sorry it has taken so long to reply. Been extremely busy here. But here goes.

Tail light bracket on my 1930 U133 and 1931 U124 are the same bracket. Someone straightened the 1931, but you can tell it was bent 90 degrees originally. Both are mounted in two holes in rear of frame. Both sides of frame have same holes. I think for export as was said earlier. All three of my trucks are missing what I believe to be the original light. However, the mounting holes on a type B light don't fit in my brackets. I have an idea that the original truck light was a smaller red light without a chrome grill, but have nothing to prove that. I have one that came with the 1931, but have not had time to research.

Dodge Brothers plate is on second to last cross member on my 1930 U133. It is a different suze than the later hood side plates. It is also mounted with 5 rivets. 4 corners and in the middle. My plate exists but cannot be read. U133 also has the cross member at end of frame.

1931 U124 has no plate. And has no cross member at end of frame.

Frame picture is of the 1931. Also, notice the copper fitting on the 1931 bracket. It has wire in it. Assume some sort of conduit for the light wiring. The 1930 bracket does not have a hole for this.

Check out post #61. These tail lights look like a match to my tail light except for the side mount. Side mount required because there is no cross member there. They may have used same mounting arm but just bent the mounting arm 90 degrees.

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Check out post #61. These tail lights look like a match to my tail light except for the side mount. Side mount required because there is no cross member there. They may have used same mounting arm but just bent the mounting arm 90 degrees.

On mine, it looks they both had the 90 bend regardless of the end cross member.

I think even the G44 is mounted to the two holes in frame. Problem with the trucks is that moving in and out of docks all their lives, the lights and mounts got a lot of abuse.

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Is this your frame for the DA 124? If so the main rear cross member (closet to the differential) has gusset plates shown. The other rear cross member is not a main support.

Not to sure my rear crossmember works for your application.

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Wow, good stuff gents..... can't wait to jump into this some more. Thanks for all the help and pics guys, very good stuff.

Sherman, I'll find time tomorrow to look at those gussets tomorrow. Great eye and thanks for pointing that out ! That could explain alot of things for me either way, if I have or don't have them. Thanks again

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Sorry it has taken so long to reply. Been extremely busy here. But here goes.

Tail light bracket on my 1930 U133 and 1931 U124 are the same bracket. Someone straightened the 1931, but you can tell it was bent 90 degrees originally. Both are mounted in two holes in rear of frame. Both sides of frame have same holes. I think for export as was said earlier. All three of my trucks are missing what I believe to be the original light. However, the mounting holes on a type B light don't fit in my brackets. I have an idea that the original truck light was a smaller red light without a chrome grill, but have nothing to prove that. I have one that came with the 1931, but have not had time to research.

Dodge Brothers plate is on second to last cross member on my 1930 U133. It is a different suze than the later hood side plates. It is also mounted with 5 rivets. 4 corners and in the middle. My plate exists but cannot be read. U133 also has the cross member at end of frame.

1931 U124 has no plate. And has no cross member at end of frame.

Frame picture is of the 1931. Also, notice the copper fitting on the 1931 bracket. It has wire in it. Assume some sort of conduit for the light wiring. The 1930 bracket does not have a hole for this.

As I said, this will take some time to sort thru....

Thanks George, theres some good meat in that post. I'm shocked you don't have a bracket or light for the passenger side since yours was an export though. Gonna take me awhile to sift through it and figure out where to go from here but, thanks again guys, this is a big help. I appreciate it !

I do believe you are right George, these things had to of taken a beating at the loading docks.... especially since the brackets stuck out so far. I know I would have knocked a knee or two on them if I had to work around them (I bet that smarted OUCH), not to mention the plate would have caused a flesh wound also....

Still wish you could have shown me a light assembly housing George but thanks for getting me to this point, very grateful. I'm sure we both need the same one so when we find it we'll both know...

So the light housing is something that we both need to verify at this point. Awesome stuff...very very cool....

I will try and get better pics of the gussets tomorrow to see if we can solve some more of this puzzle. I love this....

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Remember my U133 is an export, but it was going to France and is left hand drive, so light would have been on drivers side. The G44 has a different mount. It actually mounts to bottom of frame.

Oh that's right, ... I'm getting your trucks mixed up. I was thinking it was the U-124. That first picture of the underneath showing where the G light bracket mounts to the underside of the frame explains alot to me, the reason is because of the 2 rivots that hold the rear cross member in place. This proves mine could not have had the rear cross member. The pics I took this morning also proves that the Dodge Brothers badge was indeed held on by 5 rivets , is longer than the hood badges and is on the 2nd cross member in along with the gussets that Sherman suggested.

So, my conclusions are, my truck did not have the rear cross member, that it did have the side mount tail light bracket and the underslung spare tire carrier that mounts flush to the underside of the frame.

Notice on the rear drivers side of the frame (now that I have better pics) how there appears to be a section where a bracket would have been mounted at sometime due to the discoloration.

Drivers side rear outside of frame where tailight bracket should mount

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5 Rivets - 4 on the corners 1 in the middle. Sure would like to find a product that can eat that rust off...

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Yep Sherman, theres the gussets !

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Next topic:

From my studies I understand that I'm suppose to have a Kingston or a Stewart fuel vacuum canister. I am unclear of what manufacturer is correct for my vehicle as I only have parts numbers to go by. I'd also like to know where mine is supposed to mount because the one that is attached to my firewall currently I believe is in the wrong location. From my studies, the fuel tank should be mounted on the passengers side is this correct ?

Is this an incorrect tank and location ? I believe so

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From my studies I believe this is the correct location for my fuel canister, mounted on the firewall passenger side.

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This I believe is the correct fuel canister setup I'm suppose to have. Can anyone verify this for me ? My instruction booklet only shows the side view of engine.

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Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Other pics if anyone is curious. Gonna be a long process...

Took the head off and have been soaking the engine for several months now, the oil level continues to drop so I know it's creeping down(I've used almost 2 quarts of oil so far). This engine is the one thats in the truck now and is seized up. Just hoping she'll budge loose someday....

Rodents and wasps were burroughing inside the head and other locations. Gonna be interesting to see what's inside but the cylinders show no obvious signs of damage to the interior walls so I'm holding out hope.

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Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Need 6 hinge pins if anyone out there has any I can purchase or trade with

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Someone liked to practice with the bondo..

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Drivers glass- passenger side is also good and in place. Both crank up and down

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Never noticed the detail on the handles before until I zoomed in on one

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For Sherman

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Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Here is a product I have started using to loosen nuts bolts and stuck motors. It is made by Seafoam and is called Deep Creep. It is available from Advanced Auto and some other places. It tends to be expensive, around a $10 bill for a spray can. It is also available non arosol. It is one of the better rusted bolt busters I have used. Like all of them, you need to put it on and leave it. It is a foaming application so it tends to stay where you put it for the most part. But I have been impressed with its ability to losen stuck motors, valves and nuts/bolts.

The headlight bucket is probably very similar. I think mine may have been CM Hall, but the glass is 9 1/4" Twilight #22. I am thinking I may be able to repair the dented one I have, but it is pretty rusted on the bottom, may not be worth the effort if I can find one. I just watched some on the big board, but they were the type with the ring anchor tab at the bottom, and the one I need has no tab. Wasnt sure if I could just remove the tab. Hate to modifty stuff.

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Thanks George will check into that product. I'm just always leary of putting anything other than oil in an engine. Some guys swear by kerosene, diesel fuel and so on... but I'm in no rush and I guess I'm more curious than anything to see if just straight motor oil does the trick. I will try and find that Deep Creep and put it to the test on some stubborn nuts and bolts.

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Both the U124 and the U133 have the vacuum tank on the passenger (Right) side of the vehicle. G44 has no vacuum tank. Fuel pump on that model.

Your U124 & your U133 have a part # of 43280 or # 304682 depending on the serial numbers of your trucks.

My DA124 shows part # 527016 in both the MPB (page T-14-17) and my 3/4 parts list book for "Vacuum Tank Assembly".

My question is, according to the MPB in regards to my DA124 it only specifies UP TO serial #D231423, however my serial number is D231751. So I show no listing for my serial number. Am I to assume that the correct Vacuum Tank for my truck then is Part #527016 since theres no other listing for it ?

Who are the manufacturers of your Vacuum Tanks George ? I believe Sherman has stated that his is a Stewart

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Other pics if anyone is curious. Gonna be a long process...

Took the head off and have been soaking the engine for several months now, the oil level continues to drop so I know it's creeping down(I've used almost 2 quarts of oil so far). This engine is the one thats in the truck now and is seized up. Just hoping she'll budge loose someday....

Rodents and wasps were burroughing inside the head and other locations. Gonna be interesting to see what's inside but the cylinders show no obvious signs of damage to the interior walls so I'm holding out hope. Some more subfloor pics as well.

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Tag on the tranny

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Gas tank looks salvagable (fingers crossed).

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Thanks for previous pictures. Do you think that your frame is as shown in my last post?

The pictures in this post did not come thru. Please resend.

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Thanks for previous pictures. Do you think that your frame is as shown in my last post?

The pictures in this post did not come thru. Please resend.

Yes I do. I'll try and upload the pics again and go back and edit the other one. Don't know why they do that sometimes...

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More pics that didn't come thru previously - the gas tank, bell molding, and subfloor

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EDIT :

It appears from the bell molding that the black enamel was layed down first then the yellow stripe down the side went over the dark base color. This was just my way of testing to see what layers of color it had. In my opinion the truck was originally the deep dark "Coolie Blue" with the yellow stripe down the sides.

Here is a link to the color if anyone is curious - First one on the page Coolie Blue IM-1 thru IM-26

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/aclim.html

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Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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My 1931 U124 is Kingston oil vac. 1930 U133 is Stewart. I have noticed the different part numbers.

Whats the frame number on your U124 again ? That'll tell me what part number it is and how to hopefully cross reference it for extra hits that may lend clues and to see if there is any connection to the only DA124 part number thats shown.

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Whats the frame number on your U124 again ? That'll tell me what part number it is and how to hopefully cross reference it for extra hits that may lend clues and to see if there is any connection to the only DA124 part number thats shown.

My DE model truck had the stewart vacum tank.

When you get to finalizing your color I will have more information. I have been in touch with Leon Wardle (see Attached portion of draft report). If you can add to report e-mail Leon.

  1. Our preliminary finding is that Graham Brothers Standard Dark Blue and Dodge Brothers Truck Blue lie in the range from Hawthorns Midnight Blue (lightest) through Boatswain Blue (Ditzler 10039) (intermediate) to Baja Blue (<st1:stockticker w:st="on">PPG</st1:stockticker> 18436). L. Wardle bought a small can of each color in Acrylic Urethane and has brushed or sprayed it onto aluminum flashing to obtain larger color samples than those customarily provided by the paint manufacturers. Any one who sees this report and has a GB or DB truck with some paint that appears original is requested to write, phone, or email L. Wardle for a set of the three paint samples. We’ll add your findings on which blue matches best, or possibly some other modern manufacturers number that matches better.

<o:p></o>

N. LeonWardle

<st1:street w:st="on"><st1:address w:st="on">7 Acorn Lane</st1:address></st1:street>

Wayland, Ma01778

Email: lenoreleon@verizon.net

Phone:508-358-5664

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Sherman,

any idea if they have tested samples of Nitro-Cellulose or the Acrylic Laquers ? If so I'd like to find the results to those test samples. When keeping with originality I'd really like to use what was used from the factory originally if possible. I just wonder if the tests would be squewed when using a Cellulose over an Acrylic ? My thinking is the Cellulose would be a more true hue but I'm only beginning to understand the pros and cons to the product.

Those codes in that report seem to be more modern btw. It seems like I've came across the Boatswain Blue in my studies but I can't recall where.

So, just to be clear, are they suggesting that those are the only 3 possible colors these early trucks could have been painted or are they suggesting "in the range" meaning it could be other colors in between those perameters ?

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Sherman,

any idea if they have tested samples of Nitro-Cellulose or the Acrylic Laquers ? If so I'd like to find the results to those test samples. When keeping with originality I'd really like to use what was used from the factory originally if possible. I just wonder if the tests would be squewed when using a Cellulose over an Acrylic ? My thinking is the Cellulose would be a more true hue but I'm only beginning to understand the pros and cons to the product.

Those codes in that report seem to be more modern btw. It seems like I've came across the Boatswain Blue in my studies but I can't recall where.

So, just to be clear, are they suggesting that those are the only 3 possible colors these early trucks could have been painted or are they suggesting "in the range" meaning it could be other colors in between those perameters ?

In California the EPA has pretty well eliminated the use of all paints except those they approve. The Baja Blue color is a good match to my DE truck dark blue and is availiable at auto paint stores.

It is becoming increasinly harder for hobbiest to paint there own vehicles. Boatswain Blue was a color recommended as a good match but my truck was much darker.

I do not think nitro-cellulose paint is even available anymore.

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It's still available. Hibernia Auto Restoration

It's pricey and more dangerous but according to Hibernias website all 50 states can still sale it/ use it.

Direct quote from there website under nitrocellulose and acrylic laquers :

"Our Lacquers are available legally for sale/use in all 50 states and Washington D.C"

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More subfloor and rear door wood pics. Floor is rough as to be expected, some of the side and door strips may be salvagable, we'll see...

Drivers side

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Rear drivers side inner door edge

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Passenger side cargo space. A peak behind the lower metal cargo panel at the wheel well.

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Will the levers on the truck in Wisconsin work on my DA124 ? If so I plan to have the entire steering unit shipped to me as well. Still trying to determine if it will work.

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Bottom of the passengers side seat showing what all is going to be involved. I believe all of this to be original and never redone.

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More subfloor and rear door wood pics. Floor is rough as to be expected, some of the side and door strips may be salvagable, we'll see...

Drivers side

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Rear drivers side inner door edge

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Passenger side cargo space. A peak behind the lower metal cargo panel at the wheel well.

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Will the levers on the truck in Wisconsin work on my DA124 ? If so I plan to have the entire steering unit shipped to me as well. Still trying to determine if it will work.

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Bottom of the passengers side seat showing what all is going to be involved. I believe all of this to be original and never redone.

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The DA 124 cab is very different than the DA 120. Note my wood work and floor frame.

Both cabs are attached to the steel seat box but the boxes may be different also.

My levers control spark, throttle, and lights. It appears there is only two levers on the Wisc truck.

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The DA 124 cab is very different than the DA 120. Note my wood work and floor frame.

Both cabs are attached to the steel seat box but the boxes may be different also.

My levers control spark, throttle, and lights. It appears there is only two levers on the Wisc truck.

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Yeah yours looks like it has more of a wooden structure for the seat, where my seat frame is metal. Unclear on the differences other than that right now, more studying is needed from my end, I do see a few things though. The center brace & the cross brace on the passenger side on yours is throwing me,,,, I would have thought your gas tank was suppose to fit there.

As for the levers mine should only have the 2 as well, like the Wisconsin donor from what I can tell. I would like to verify before I purchase it though.

Heres my interior again, #'s 2 & 4 "Throttle Control Hand Lever & Light Control Hand Lever". My spark control button is on the far bottom right of the dash instrument cluster #24. I believe the one in Wisconsin should work, but the parts numbers aren't jiven.

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Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Yeah yours looks like it has more of a wooden structure for the seat, where my seat frame is metal. Unclear on the differences other than that right now, more studying is needed from my end, I do see a few things though. The center brace & the cross brace on the passenger side on yours is throwing me,,,, I would have thought your gas tank was suppose to fit there.[/QUO TE]

Take a look at the steel cowl transition to the wood base plate.

Mine wood ends at the door sill where the hinges are mounted. Your wood goes pass that point farther toward the firewall.

http://forums.aaca.org/attachments/f143/184787d1364340279-1930-da-124-floor-frame.jpg

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Yeah yours looks like it has more of a wooden structure for the seat, where my seat frame is metal. Unclear on the differences other than that right now, more studying is needed from my end, I do see a few things though. The center brace & the cross brace on the passenger side on yours is throwing me,,,, I would have thought your gas tank was suppose to fit there.[/QUO TE]

Take a look at the steel cowl transition to the wood base plate.

Mine wood ends at the door sill where the hinges are mounted. Your wood goes pass that point farther toward the firewall.

http://forums.aaca.org/attachments/f143/184787d1364340279-1930-da-124-floor-frame.jpg

yeah that was one of the other things I noticed on mine as well...you are correct sir

post-69994-143141818154_thumb.jpg

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