Bob Beck's (bhigdog) 55 Century project

[Bhigdog]

With the body itself painted I worked on all of the body parts. As I said they all needed repair and cosmetic work to a more or lesser extent. While I was doing that the body paint cured enough that I could cover it with drop cloths when it came time to shoot the parts. Everything was shot on saw horses with the parts set at a confortable height and angle. The Special's

fenders were now Century fenders with the cutting of the 4th hole.

I wanted the paint to cure at least for at least 30 days before color sanding and buffing. More is better. Parts were piled and hung all over the place in the mean time. In the first pix see the doors hanging on the far wall and a fender on the donor car roof. While I was waiting for the paint to cure there was a gazillion other things that would keep me busy...........

To be continued..................

Edited February 18, 2013 by Bhigdog (see edit history)

[avgwarhawk]

Cherokee Red was the right choice!

[Bhigdog]

Cherokee Red was the right choice!

When I painted the firewall I wasn't so sure if I liked my choice of color. After the body was painted I was sure I made a big mistake but there was no turning back at that point. But as the trim and chrome went on it looked better and better. Finally after it was all dressed I realized the color folks at GM knew what they were doing. I thought it a knock out.............Bob

[Bhigdog]

As I waited for my paint to cure there were lots of things to keep me busy. The steering needed to be rebuilt, all the power window motors were taken apart, commutators turned, bearings relubed etc, hinges, window regulators, every switch in the car, every motor, top pump, etc etc etc. Every component was disassembled, inspected, and in most cases needed some work. In all cases there was bead blasting, relubing, and coating with clear or black paint.

I also took on the dash and wiring. The above pix is the dash as it was removed. It's still a mystery how it could have gotten in that condition. After pricing new harnesses I was determined to rebuild what I had. The donor harness wasn't too bad but as a hard top Special it was lacking a lot of wiring that would be needed in a Century Convert. The top, seats, different dome lites, some circuit breaker wiring would need to be fabricated. I cut the donor harness apart and added the missing wires, branching them off in the correct places. I salvaged what I could from the Century but often new wire was used saving the original connectors where possible. After everything was laid out the the wires were taped with black tape mimicing the original. All the wires are the correct color and gauge. When I finally powered up the car most everything worked, no fuses were blown and no smoke.

In the third pix above I have the original harness laid out trying to make heads or tails of WTF is going on.

The dash was stripped of everthing then painted, the back left heavily primed. The first pix above shows the remade wiring harness attached to the back of the dash. the fuse block and lite switch is attached. The switch will already have been disassembled, parts bead blasted and cleaned, clear coated, lubed and tested for operation. In the second pix the instruments are being set and wired. My chrome must have come back by now because the bezels were sent for rechroming. All the glass was removed from the instruments, the faces gently cleaned, the needles adjusted for center and painted then checked for operation.

The last pix is out of sequence but I wanted to show the engine turned inserts The Century dash uses. Mine were shot. I decided to make new ones from scratch. I bought a 4 X 8 sheet of .025 hard temper aluminum, made masonite templates of the originals and used a router to cut them out. There are 4 seperate pieces, including the glove box insert which, after jeweling must be crimped over a form to hold its rounded shape and then slipped over the glove box.

I had no idea how to do this and did a lot of experiments trying to get the correct size and finish swerls. I finaly used coarse valve grinding compound and a pencil eraser in a drill press.

Spacing and holding jigs were fabricated and starting in the bottom right corner and off setting each succesive row 1/16" to the left the job was done. The finished insert could not be checked until it was completed and washed off. If there was flaw it was junk. I think I made 2 scrap pieces for each good one.

At least the paint was getting plenty of cure time...................

To be continued....................

[bhambulldog]

Very Nice !

[old-tank]

Bob

This is a very enjoyable and informative thread! And a great service to all of us hands-on restorers. I know how hard it is to assemble pictures (especially if a scanner is involved) and then sit down and actually write it up.

Can you give some more details on the actually refinishing? Like what products were used from the skin out, how well that acrylic enamel is holding up, and things that worked for you but might not be done at commercial shops.

Willie

[Bhigdog]

Thanks willy. Actually this thread is more time consuming than I thought it would be. All the pix needed to be scanned and they were all in a big pile in a shoe box. That's one of the reasons that I'm not going into too many details and I'm kind of skimming the surface. That and I figured you all are getting kind of bored by now. I'm far from an expert on any of this stuff but if anyone has a question on a certain "how I did it" aspect I'd be happy to oblige.

As for the actual finishing, let me say right off that there are many fine products out there and I'm not saying what I used or did is best for everyone. It was best for me and worked well.

CLEAN bare metal was scuffed with 100 grit paper, wiped with Prepsol until the wipes were clean, and coated with Dupont self etching primer. When I used body filler sometimes it was over bare metal, in which case I roughed up the metal with 80 grit, sometimes it was applied over another coating. Body filler was used to repair all the little dings and battle scars. If the ding was more than minor I would work it close to out before filling. I am not a beleiver in raising a dent and filing it flush, thus thinning the steel.

After the self etching primer a coat of high build primer was applied and block sanded down until metal started to show. Sometimes high spots would show and they would be lowered or low spots would get a thin coat of filler. Another coat of high build would then be applied and sanded with 180 grit until it was thin.

Next a coat of lacquer primer/surfacer was shot. That would fill the sanding marks under it. The primer surfacer was then dry block sanded with 360 grit. If I got cut throughs I continued block sanding until it was all level. A final coat of primer/surfacer was shot and dry block sanded with 360.

The day before shooting the panel was washed well with clean water and blown dry.

Just before shooting the panel was wiped with Prepsol and very lightly wiped with a tack cloth.

I use Dupont Centari with hardener for a number of reasons. The primary one is I'm used to it and comfortable with it. Second it is very forgiving of technique. Third, it mimics the look of the original lacquer. Fourth, Because it can be color sanded and buffed all but the most gross nibs and dirt will not be seen. Fifth, Although it's brittle and chips like lacquer the chips are easily repairable, unlike base/clear coat.

I usually shoot 3 full coats, letting each coat firm up a bit before the next coat. If the finish looks a bit dry I'll shoot a 4th coat to allow for more color sanding.

After curing at least a month, more is better, the panel is wet sanded with 1500 grit paper and buffed with an 8" buffer and a wool pad. Lots of folks use foam pads I hate them.

With out getting into chapeter and verse minutae that's what I do. I can't really address what a pro shop does or why. They may read this and laugh but it works for me. The paint job on the 55 is nearing 13 years old now and there is no cracking, crazing, peeling etc. When I wax it, it looks pretty much like it did 13 years ago.............Bob

[jackofalltrades70]

Bob,

Not once, reading and following your thread with much enthusiasm, have I had any inclination to doze off or be bored in any way, shape or manner. Excellent thread and beautiful car! Matt

[avgwarhawk]

Bob, the most critical point in the entire process IMO is the prep for painting. Sand, sand and sand again. Nice work!

[1957buickjim]

Mr. Beck, This is a fantastic thread! It is amazing still to watch what you are transforming into a beautiful vehicle! I am continually amazed by the stuff you did and the ingenuity you came up with to do it. I think we should start to call you Mr. MacGyver based upon what you can do with valve lapping compound, a pencil eraser and a piece of aluminum!!

[retirednow]

Bob, no one is bored! This thread is GREAT!

[Bhigdog]

I'm glad you all are enjoying it. Hopfully it will be useful with your projects..............Bob

[Bhigdog]

Bob, the most critical point in the entire process IMO is the prep for painting. Sand, sand and sand again. Nice work!

Absolutely correct, Chris. Any flaw in the body work will show itself in the finish paint and be there to mock you forever..................Bob

[stealthbob]

I'm glad you all are enjoying it. Hopfully it will be useful with your projects..............Bob

I don't think any of us can comprehend what a thread like this will mean to so many over so many years. I can go back to some forums that I posted on 15 years ago, I can only wonder how long your words and images will help throughout the ages.

[Mudbone]

Thanks, for posting. It gives me hope! Mud

[Bhigdog]

The Century had no interior other than 1/2 of a door panel and the remains of the rear inner quarters (arm rest panels). I called around trying to find a rear seat and panels (the donor fronts are the same as a convert) but no luck. My only choice was to modify the coupe rear seat into a convert seat but I had no example to copy. By now I was a BCA member and had a roster. A gentleman name Dan Phelps was listed as a 66C owner about 45 min away. A phone call later and I was looking at his car with tape measure and camera. Thanks Dan.

The first pix is the donor seats. They were stripped, blasted and painted. I was told if they weren't painted I would never get the pissy mouse smell out of them. I would have painted them anyway. My local trim shop had a supply of spring tempered steel rod used exactly for seat repair. The convert seats are basicly about 5" narrower and just rectangular in shape with only a small flare out. The seat seats were cut with an abrasive cut off wheel doing only one side at a time so I had a model in the uncut side. The spring wire was cut and bent to shape and lap welded into place. The welds and spring joints were then over lapped with a crimped ferrule. The first pix is the seat back. The right side of the seat is completed. The last pix is the seat bottom, cut and ready for the modification.

Above are the rear inner quarters. The only pieces of the interior I had but they were invaluable as models. The top iece could be saved by cutting away the bottom 3" and welding on new steel. The bottoms were shot and replacements could not be found. Scouring junk yards I come to the realization that other GM panels were similar enough to be modified. I think the panel shown above is a 59 Pontiac but I'm not sure. The bottom skirt portion was the same but the top profile was different. If you look at the top of the panel you can see there I cut away a part and welded in a wedge shaped piece to change the top profile into a 55 Buick. The arm rest itself was fabricated from sheet and welded to the bottom with little angle brackets. The perspective is a bit iffy but you are looking at the inside or back of the panel. The square holes for the ash trays and window switches were cat after the top was securely welded.

I was very glad to successfully complete these two sub projects because there were no other practical options at hand. Another cigar and beer please..............

To be continued..................

Edited February 21, 2013 by Bhigdog (see edit history)

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Bob, I thought I had done a good job on my '50, but the work needed and done cannot hold a candle to yours. My hat is off to you!!

ben

[Bhigdog]

You give me too much credit, Ben. Yes, the project was time consuming and often tedious but there really were no challenges that couldn't be met by thinking them through and many times looking for less obvious solutions. I probably have almost as much time just thinking as doing. I lay in bed every night, before sleep, and pondered how to make the dash inserts for at least a week before I felt I had a way that might work. Even then I had to alter my plan repeatedly as it progressed. I'm still convinced the majority of folks here could do the same given the time, means, and most importantly the desire I had.

I just read, today, a quote attributed to Henry Ford. It might be well known but it's new to me............"Whether you think you can, or think you can't...You're right"

Bob..........

[old-tank]

I probably have almost as much time just thinking as doing.

...and in my case scratching various body parts...

[Bhigdog]

The steering pump and box were both rebuilt but I had no way of testing them before installation and I wanted to be sure the box was OK because it is an ugly job removing it when the car is all together. A pump/motor test stand was rigged up to see if the car would steer easily with full weight on the tires with no leaks. Everything was good.

Time to start putting this thing back together.

I wanted to get the wiring haness in while I had room to work and also so I could test things out electrically as I went along. The firewall pad was first, followed by all the underdash stuff, wiper cables, heater stuff, vents etc.

The dash itself was put in and I could run more electrical and mechanical tests as I went along. I wanted to be sure something worked before I buried it under something else.

All the inner sheet metal was scraped of undercoating and sand blasted. Dings were tapped out and rust repaired. Where light rust pitting was visable a coat of two of high build primer, sanded back to bare metal and coated with primer surfacer fixed that, then two coats of black.

All the firewall components were installed and tested for operation, where possible, along with any engine bay stuff before the inner sheet metal was put on. The above pix is a bit out of sequence.

Some where along the line I decided the pump pulley was the wrong colour and it was removed, bead blasted and clear coated. The cogged belts would cost me two points.

After the inner sheet metal was on it would be a matter of fitting and and adjusting the body panels. It was still time consuming work. I'm not very good at repetitive tasks so I would break jobs into pieces. For example, many of the smaller parts, like door hinges, would not be repaired until I was getting close to needing them and I would color sand and buff each panel as I placed it on the car. Not the best use of time but it served to break up tedious tasks and mix them with more interesting ones.

To be continued....................

Edited February 23, 2013 by Bhigdog (see edit history)

[Bhigdog]

The car is coming together but there is still a lot of small jobs that are being done as needed. Top cylinders installed, wired and plumbed, doors modified for power windows and hung, window regulaters and glass installed and adjusted, dash installed and everything connected, Stainless trim straightened/de-dinged, etc,etc,etc. Very time consuming. About this time I rebuilt the top mechanism. The front header bow needed rust repair and everything else was just ratty. The whole thing is held together by a s**t pot full of shoulder bolts, shoulder rivets, hat/flat/wave washers, bushings, etc. Rivets were drilled out and the whole thing knocked apart, A lots of the hardware was useable but I had to make new shoulder rivets and shoulder bolts. The original rivets were chrome plated and rusty. I made new ones out of stainless steel and polished the heads. They look good.

An awful lot of time was required to get all the panel margins acceptable. There was an awful lot of putting on and taking off, shimming and reshimming to get everything right. Same with getting all the windows to come together where they should, very time consuming and sometimes frustrating.

Once the car was all together I sat on a milk crate and drove it to my local trim shop. It was the only thing I didn't do myself.

To be continued..................

Edited February 25, 2013 by Bhigdog (see edit history)

[avgwarhawk]

Quite a set up to test the pump. Saved a possible migraine later. The red was the right choice. What nice color.

[Bhigdog]

Quite a set up to test the pump. Saved a possible migraine later. The red was the right choice. What nice color.

It's a pretty easy to do set up. It won't tell you everything but will show leaks and if it's actually steering easy. If there is a problem it's a lot easier to address wiyh the car apart....................Bob

[Bhigdog]

After assembling the body and getting everything adjusted it was time to install the top irons and have the top put on.

Once the irons were installed, adjusted and weather stripped the windows all needed to be tweeked again for everything to meet in the proper places. I figured it would be better to install the interior after the top because top folks would be crawling around inside the car.

I had taken a few short test drives to insure the steering and brakes worked. So, sitting on a milk crate, with a plate from my Corvette, I drove it the 7 miles to the top shop.

After the top it was ready for the interior installation..................

To be continued...........As the Rabbi said: "It won't be long now".

[billbuickgs]

Bob,

Been watching your posts from the beginning and I must say that most of us could not be as detailed in the workmenship as you !

Outstanding job , maybe one day i will see your 55 in person.

Thanks for sharing

Bill

[avgwarhawk]

I tell you what, the body work and all the piece meal done to complete the body work, one would never be able to tell. The body work and paint are flawless. Not a easy feat by any means with a car relatively intact. Your sewing in of parts from other cars and many puzzled parts created a plat de résistance. This body work and finish is the true definition of plat de résistance. I can not say enough about your attention to getting it right!

This is just beauty at rest:

[Bhigdog]

You're both very kind, thank you. Like most cars it does have it's warts if you know where to look................... Bob

[avgwarhawk]

My wife said the same thing about me. :/

[Guest 4 bufords]

what a great job you are doing on a car that was just a step above a parts car.most of us here would say what matt says about treat it like a dog,very nice workmanship bob,4 bufords from ct

[Bhigdog]

what a great job you are doing on a car that was just a step above a parts car.most of us here would say what matt says about treat it like a dog,very nice workmanship bob,4 bufords from ct

Again, you all are too kind, thank you...........................Bob

[Guest 4 bufords]

are you planning on bringing the car to any big shows like south bend or macungie,pa?4 bufords from ct

[Bhigdog]

are you planning on bringing the car to any big shows like south bend or macungie,pa?4 bufords from ct

It has been to Macungie several times, I live only 30 minutes away. Since completing it I've done 3 other cars and have shown them in turn. The latest and my last being the 56 Chrysler. Since starting this thread I've been thinking about getting the 55 out and about again. I'll most likely bring it along to the Carlisle AACA meet this May and perhaps Macungie again for old times sake. I wish South Bend was a little closer, but maybe, depending..............Bob

[Bhigdog]

With the top in place I could install the interior.

The doors were were now finished with everything in place, tested, adjusted, and working. Originaly under the door panel was waxed paper, I used heavy plastic with any holes taped over as was original.

Door wind lace, rug padding and kick panals were next.

With the windlace in place the fit of the now modified and finished rear inners could be checked for fit. With an OK fit verified the tops and bottoms were put together and wired.

The Daytona weave rug was adjusted and trimmed for final fit and the modified seat springs checked for final fit before covering.

The trunk was finished, door panels put on, and the seats installed.

The Century was back from the dead..............

Epilog

The donor coupe, who had given so much, was cut apart and put in the woods. I didn't know it at the time but I would be picking at it's bones for years to come. To it's credit, parts of it still live in a 53 Skylark.

The Century was finished in time for Hershey 2000 where it received it's Junior. It would go on to Buffalo for a BCA Gold. Then It's AACA Senior, Grand National and Senior Grand National Firsts. It's been invited to a number of Concours events including Meadowbrook and has been awarded a few ribbons.

It was featured in a four part story in Hemmings Classic car magazine starting off, much to my surprise, by being on the cover of the March 2007 issue. Also to my surprise, the rear cover of the March 2002 Bugle .

It was also honored by being asked to be part of a four month display at the AACA museum in Hershey.

The Century project was completely enjoyable for me. I learned an incredible amount, about many things, in a very short period of time. Including about myself. After the Century I would go on to finish frame off restorations on my 57 Special convert, 55 Olds hard top, and 56 Chrysler St Regis. All were rust projects but nowhere near the extent of the Century. All would go on to AACA Senior Grand National status except the Chrysler who hasn't yet competed in a GN meet. The 57 Special would also receive it's BCA Gold besides an AACA National award.

Enough with the shameless boasting.

I previously mentioned that I am not very good with repititious tasks. With each successive project I found myself enjoying it less and less. Towards the end of the Chrysler project I realized I had done it until I made my self sick. There were no more little celebrations.

I had built a rotissery for the Chrysler project. I sold it so I would never be tempted to do another frame off.

These days I maintain the cars and still do some shows. I still enjoy the hobby but from a more observational place.

My restoration shop is now getting filled with machine tools, which I find most enjoyable to nutz around with. I now have a 13" LeBlond lathe, Bridgeport mill, B&S surface grinder, DoAll saw, and a Steptoe 14" shaper. I've done a few projects for hobbiests here on the forum fixing, rebuilding, or making one off parts.

In conclusion. thank you all for letting me be here.........................Bob

Edited March 1, 2013 by Bhigdog (see edit history)

[buick5563]

Shameless boasting appreciated.

Cheers!

[retirednow]

AWESOME! Thank you so much Bob!

[jackofalltrades70]

Bob

I am in Northampton right now. Am I anywhere close to you to stop in and say hi? Matt 570-702-6372

[Guest Skyking]

Bob, I followed this thread from the beginning with amazement. I spent time talking to you at one of the big meets, can't remember if it was at Buffalo or Flint and looked at these photos in a book you had....... There are guys who are good at sheet metal but can not do body work. Then there are guys who can do bodywork but can not do paint. It's a very rare breed of guys who can do it all. And my hat is off to you that you can do all of this and do it so well. Any award you have won or will win, you my friend, truly deserve it! This thread was a pleasure to view. Hope to see you at Macungie in August. You do know they are featuring the Buick this year.

Bob Rossi

[Bhigdog]

Bob, I followed this thread from the beginning with amazement. I spent time talking to you at one of the big meets, can't remember if it was at Buffalo or Flint and looked at these photos in a book you had....... There are guys who are good at sheet metal but can not do body work. Then there are guys who can do bodywork but can not do paint. It's a very rare breed of guys who can do it all. And my hat is off to you that you can do all of this and do it so well. Any award you have won or will win, you my friend, truly deserve it! This thread was a pleasure to view. Hope to see you at Macungie in August. You do know they are featuring the Buick this year.

Bob Rossi

Thank you, Bob. No, I wasn't aware this was Buick year at Macungie. I'll make it a point to be there...............Bob

[jackofalltrades70]

Bob,

Just wanted to say thanks for this afternoon. It was a pleasure to meet you and talk awhile and see all of your beautiful cars and truck. To remember the before pictures and to see the finished car was amazing. I wanted to thank you for the break in my afternoon and I'm glad that you were around and available so I could pass by. I look forward to many more visits........Matt

[retirednow]

This thread is a huge inspiration to me, as the floors and trunk pan in my car are totally gone. At least I can see now that it CAN be done, and it WILL be done-Thanks again Bob