r1lark Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 Progress update............... Been working hard on the automatic transmission rebuild. Got it disassembled and inspected to see what parts are needed. Trans looks great inside, which was sort of expected for the low mileage (approx. 40K miles). Ordered a seal/gasket kit, and a bushing kit, which should arrive tomorrow. The Studebaker Club transmission expert lists about four bushings that are recommended to always be changed on these transmissions, so I will compare the sizes of the new versus the existing and determine if they really need to be replaced or not. About half-way thru cleaning and inspecting parts and putting sub-assemblies back together (valve body, pressure regulator, governor, etc). Cleaned up the pan and bolting and primed them. Also got the extension shaft cleaned up. Pictures so far are just disassembly pics so nothing real interesting. But there is a pic attached below of the transmission sitting on the stand that I cobbled up. Stand worked great, trans stay on stand and didn't move at all. Got to do some checking on where to get the torque converter rebuilt. Anyone in the NC area know of a good rebuilder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 (edited) Wow, it's been almost a year since I posted on this thread! Well, life has gotten in the way, but I'm trying to get back onto it. The transmission is together and waiting for the engine assembly (the tranny has been together for about 6 to 7 months actually). I'll try to dig up some pictures of the tranny rebuild and get those posted. The car is up on the rotisserie so I can clean up the underside and touch up the undercoating......soon. I did get the fuel pump rebuilt this week, glad for small steps forward at least. Here are some pics: Used a kit from Then & Now Automotive, a few minor items that took a little work but all in all a really good kit.......... Here is the nasty original pump, pulled off about 20 years ago ........ Cleaned up, but before bead blasting: The valves went together well, using the rivets in place of the original Carter 'mushrooms'............. Had to shorten the plug where the rocker arm pin goes into the body, but no big deal; pic shows original plug and plug from the kit. Also, was concerned that the rocker arm pin in the kit was a good bit shorter than the original pin, so reused the original since it had no wear at all...............I had to shorten the plug because the new supplied pin is shorter, and the plug is longer to properly center the pin. Since I used the original longer pin, shortening the plug did the trick. Not a wrong part from Now & Then, just a result of me using the original pin. Here is the finished product, coated with a clear enamel engine paint: Next is the engine assembly. Hopefully that will be in full swing this week.........fingers crossed ! Edited June 25, 2016 by r1lark corrections..... (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 Looking good Paul. Keep picking away at it. One thing done is one thing off the list of many things that needs to get done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 Thanks Martin. I have to get back into the swing of doing something on it each day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 As promised, a few picture of the transmission rebuild, plus one of the exhaust manifold coating...................... I like the Eastwood coating for the exhaust manifolds. They can be 'pre-cured' in an oven, but I have to wait for a day that my wife will be gone until the evening to do that : Here are some pics of the transmission reassembly...........verifying the endplay is still correct, final assembly, and painting of the whole trans/bell housing. The transmission was quite low mileage, so parts replacement (except for seals and o-rings, and some of the bushings) was minimal. The clutch plates were in excellent shape and were reused. I used a kit from Fatsco, and highly recommend them. They are great to work with, and quickly corrected a small issue with a damaged bushing. I was lucky to have a number of the original Kent-Moore transmission tools that I bought NOS years ago, which made disassembly and reassembly easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 (edited) Update Wednesday June 15: Back on the engine reassembly. The machine work was done a number of years ago, but I'm going back and verifying all the clearances and measurements. Today I got the crankshaft unbagged and re-measured the main and rod journals. Put the crank in my high tech wooden crank holder to do the measurements: After measuring and recording the journal diameters, the next step is to get the bearing diameters using snap gages and micrometers. I like this method of verifying bearing clearance much better than using plastigage. Block has been unbagged and recleaned, along with the main bearing caps and bolts. Will have some pics of measuring the bearing IDs hopefully tomorrow. Here is a picture of the oil pressure relief setup, I pulled it out to make sure there wasn't any dried lube plugging the tiny hole: Wanted to include a few pictures of the front timing cover seal modification. The Studebaker V8 used a felt seal, but I like the modern seal upgrade. There are several ways to do this, but I get Ingvar Vik of Vik's Machine Shop in Montana to modify the cover for the modern seal, and machine the front hub to get rid of the spiral grooves that were used with the felt seal. Good well thought-out modification. Ingvar is a long-time Studebaker guy, and this is the third or fourth cover I've had him do: Hopefully another update in a few days. Edited June 16, 2016 by r1lark (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted June 20, 2016 Author Share Posted June 20, 2016 Update 6/19/2016: Happy Fathers Day to all the fathers on the forum! Not a huge amount of progress to report, because I bought myself a Fathers Day present - a dial bore gauge. As mentioned earlier, I normally use snap (telescoping) gauges to measure the bearing IDs. But on a Stude V8, the required snap gauge (at least in my Starrett set) for the main bearings has a lot of tension so I worry about scratching the bearing surface, plus it takes me a number of measurements before I am sure I've got a good consistent result. The snap gauges are tougher to get to self-center in the soft bearing material. The dial bore gauge is much easier to get a consistent reading but it has its own quirks also, and if you don't set it to just barely over the expected bore diameter, you can still scratch/gouge the bearing surface. For bearing clearances, you are actually measuring a delta between the journal diameter and the bearing ID, so as long as you use the same mic to set the bore gauge as you used to measure the journal diameter, you don't need a setting gauge (or ring gauges). Anyway, once the Amazon package arrived Saturday, I spent my spare time getting used to the new dial bore gauge, and getting it set up properly for measuring the main bearing bore IDs. It is set up to my satisfaction, so tomorrow night I will measure the bore diameters. Even though I'm retired now, I am doing some consulting work a few days a week.......and I have to work tomorrow so the bearing clearances will have to wait until after I get home . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 (edited) Update 6/27/2016: Had hoped to get the car outside on the rotisserie and start cleaning the undercoating, but didn't get quite that far. Had to drain the lube out of the rear axle (when I filled it up, I had not planned to put the car on the rotisserie), plus ensure the lube won't run out the top of the steering box into the column when the car is upside down. Also had a bunch of refinished parts inside that had to come out, plus had to put the trunk latch back on so the trunk doesn't fly open. Hopefully if the weather cooperates, I'll get the car outside and upside down tomorrow after work. Also got a YouTube video done today - my first - but don't know how to embed a YouTube video on this site if that is even possible. Anyone know? Anyway, here is a link, check it out: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoV7N2VgM7gjoz_vbTz7C_w Just remember it's my first video . Edited June 28, 2016 by r1lark (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Great first video. Lots better than I could have done. Very informative also. Keep them coming. Would love to see a video of the car as it stands today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 Thanks John. Truth be told, this is my first public video. There were several that I did to try to figure all this out, but they were in the 'private' zone of my YouTube channel. The best one was of my wife, that I let the kids preview -- "The Many Faces of Mom", where I filmed my wife at different times, then strung the bits together into a couple minute video. My two boys (24 and 26) liked that one . All my wife said about it was that I better not put it where anyone else but the boys would see it......... The filming part isn't bad, but stringing the clips together, shortening the clips to take out the parts that you don't want, adding the transitions, adding the writing, etc takes some time -- at least until I get used to the process. That's a good idea about filming the GT Hawk. I'll do that when I get it rolled outside on the rotisserie tomorrow before the sun gets shining on it heavily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted June 30, 2016 Author Share Posted June 30, 2016 Update Wednesday 6/29/2016 (with video): Busy day today. Got the car outside on the rotisserie, checked to see if the weight was balanced (it was, same setting as the '64 Lark that was on it before), and hooked up the pressure washer. This was just a small electric pressure washer, but was fine because I wasn't wanting to blow the undercoating off! Ended up using a cleaner (Thunder Blast, got it from Dollar General I think) and get a lot of dirt off. While it didn't come out as clean as I hoped, it is much better. Next step will be to clean a few places on the frame and paint, then spray a light coat of fresh undercoating on to freshen up the bottom -- most likely will not happen until this weekend. As suggested by unimogjohn, I combined a walkaround of the car with the pressure washing video. Here is a link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhOKSDZxF2c Once the bottom side is finished, I can start putting parts back on - gas tank, dash, heater assembly, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 Paul, great job on the video. Wow, the car is really clean and rust free. I wish my Avanti frame looked as good. Thanks for making the video. Makes the project come alive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted June 30, 2016 Author Share Posted June 30, 2016 Glad you liked it John. The car originally lived in California, then came out to Greensboro NC but wasn't driven here much. I bought it from Truett Ray in Raleigh (you may remember him) in the mid-to-late '80s just before he went to France for a couple of years. Been in my basement since. Looks like I will start on touching up the paint on the frame tomorrow morning first thing, trying to get as much done as I can before the thunderstorms move in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted July 5, 2016 Author Share Posted July 5, 2016 Update July 4, 2016: Had a fairly productive day Friday.......started cleaning the surface rust off the back half of the frame. it was much easier than anticipated, and a lot of what I thought was surface rust was actually just stubborn dirt/mud. It's amazing how much off the factory paint is still on the frame of this car. On the sections what were cleaned, a rust neutralizer was used and is now ready for a top coat of paint. I did take some video of the cleaning and neutralizer steps, but have not processed that video yet. I'm about 25% done with the cleaning and neutralizing. Saturday I went with my wife to help her sort thru her late father's stuff, getting ready for an auction. Unfortunately the weather here today is not cooperating, getting a fair amount of rain (which we sorely needed) that prevents me from rolling the car outside and flipping it up on the rotisserie. So......today I worked on blasting/priming/painting the small brackets (axle snubber brackets, fuel tank brackets, muffler hanger brackets, etc) and fasteners that I took off. Got some consulting work to do tomorrow, but back on the car Wednesday morning. Right now, the weather looks like it will be hot Wednesday, but no rain until late afternoon so hopefully I can get a good bit done on the frame. Once the bottom side is finished, I can start putting parts back on - gas tank, dash, heater assembly, etc.......looking forward to that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted July 12, 2016 Author Share Posted July 12, 2016 Update Monday 7/11/2016: Been pretty warm (hot & humid) here, so I've been getting out by 7am to work on the car. The frame cleaning and rust converter application is done as of today; only the back half of the frame needed this, the front was still factory paint. Also this afternoon, I painted a bunch of small brackets (gas tank supports, muffler hangers, rear axle rubber bumper holders, etc) and fasteners. On Wednesday, I'll topcoat the back half of the frame, then can start on the 'refreshing' of the undercoating. I did get a video put together, part 1 of the frame cleaning and rust converter application; part 2 will follow in a day or two. Here is the link to part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ctiZ7f6NhY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted July 13, 2016 Author Share Posted July 13, 2016 (edited) Update Tuesday 7/12/2016: Tomorrow morning will be 'paint the frame' day. Well, at least the back half of the frame.........the front half doesn't need it. Also got part 2 of the prepping the frame for paint video processed, plus a review of tools and chemicals used since several folks requested this. And, it's a short video : https://youtu.be/8MmWq0Efi8Y Enjoy! Edited July 13, 2016 by r1lark correct spelling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted July 17, 2016 Author Share Posted July 17, 2016 Update Sunday 7/17/2016: Progress continues! Painting of the back half of the frame is done, and cleaning and minor touch up of the factory paint on the front half is done. The 3M undercoating is on order, to put an even coat of undercoat cover over the whole bottom of the car. Been working on cleaning/painting a bunch of small brackets and miscellaneous stuff I pulled off when working on the frame. Still have to put the handwritten assembly line marks back on the frame, and clear coat over the "secret serial number" area on the rear crossmember. I taped over the secret serial number so it wouldn't get painted over with the VHT Chassis epoxy. Got some more parts to paint today, especially finish coating on the heater core box and duct........but it is so HOT out that I'll wait until late tonight just before dark. Pictures below are of the frame coating on the back half, and cleaning the emergency brake parts before disassembling. Interestingly, the e-brake parts were bolted on after the basic frame was painted, but had not paint on them anywhere - so they were cleaned and clear coated. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted July 22, 2016 Author Share Posted July 22, 2016 Update Friday 7/22/2016: Whew, it is HOT this afternoon. I've been working outside only in the morning; I can roll the car out at 6:30 am and it stays in the shade of the house until about 11:00 am. Was just out from about 2pm to 3pm, and that sun is brutal. The car is pretty much ready to spray the undercoating. The frame is masked off, and all the trim holes, etc that are thru to a place that will be undercoated are taped off. I do still have to cover the front clip with the thin plastic to make sure no undercoating floats into the engine compartment/firewall while I'm doing the front fenders, but will do that tonight (this can be done with the car inside, thank goodness ). Undercoating showed up Wednesday via Amazon and UPS. Not sure how long it will take me, but hoping it will go pretty quick. This is just one coat of 3M undercoating over the original undercoating, so all of it is one even color. Will post pics and/or video this weekend of the undercoating process. I can't wait to start bolting things back on! All the small brackets and fasteners that I took off are blasted, painted, and ready to be put back on, as well as the gas tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted July 26, 2016 Author Share Posted July 26, 2016 Update Monday July 25 - Body undercoating is DONE! The heat has pushed me to working from about 6:30am to about noon, then from 7:30pm to about 9:00pm. But the frame painting is done as shown in the previous update, and the undercoating of the body is done. I'm really pleased with how it came out. Here's the video: https://youtu.be/kQFo2Zg44k8 Hope you enjoy it! Now I can start putting the brackets and stuff back on the underside, and get the gas tank in. Pics or video (or both?) in a couple of days. Have to work tomorrow so won't get much done until later this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted August 5, 2016 Author Share Posted August 5, 2016 (edited) Friday August 5, 2016 Update: Underneath is done! All the small brackets are back on, the fuel tank and filler are installed, e-brake linkage reinstalled, brake lines reinstalled, and the underseat heater box is back in. Short video is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENw5skHiFWA And here are some pictures............... Lots of small brackets and fasteners: Fuel sender, gasket, etc ready to install into gas tank; float is off a late model sender that can withstand alcohol-infused gas: Filler parts, just needed a little scrubbing; the rectangular black piece goes between the top of the tank and the bottom of the trunk floor: Underneath......shocks will be bolted back on once the car is off the rotisserie and on wheels: Got the brake lines back on that I temporarily took off: Fuel tank and hangers back on; note the duplication of the factory 'P B' on the frame rail - a note that this car would get power brakes and thus needed the power brake pedal with the different mount to the frame: More duplicated factory notes on frame.....close up of notes is two pics below........'VK' most likely means V8 engine and K-body (Hawk hardtop) body; the "L" I'm not so sure about but could be Left Hand Drive (LHD); the "P/S" is power steering most likely; the "A" is probably automatic transmission, and the "PB" is probably power brakes again. If someone can verify or disprove my assumptions regarding what these mean, please let me know: Got the splash shield (left side of pic) for the pedal area straightened out, undercoating freshened up, and reinstalled; master cylinder is to the right: Heater box for the underseat heater installed (lower left of picture) - the core goes into this box from the interior side of the car: Now that this underside is done, I can get back on the engine assembly and building my engine run-in stand. Stay tuned! Edited August 5, 2016 by r1lark (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 Great job Paul. Moving right along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted August 6, 2016 Author Share Posted August 6, 2016 Thanks Martin. Glad to get this behind me, and get back onto engine reassembly. Going to try to sketch up an engine/transmission test stand today so I can figure out what metal I need to order. Had hoped I had something on hand to use to build it, but don't . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 Update Sunday Aug 14, 2016: Not a huge amount of progress to show in pictures, but progress nonetheless. Engine/transmission test stand is designed, and most of the material has been obtained. New stalk of 2"x2"x3/16" tube steel, and some scrap angle. Still need to get some casters - I have a set, but they are only about 4" in diameter and not sure if they will roll reasonably well on the rough asphalt outside. I have found a set at Northern Tools, and have a coupon, so that may be the path I take. Bolted up a spare 'batwing' to the transmission mounts to take some measurements; may cut this and use it as the tranny support on the engine test stand. The 2x4 was to help with measurements: Here is the steel for the stand, will start cutting tomorrow after work: Found a few NOS exhaust pipes to tie into the exhaust manifolds so I can have a muffler - the assembly on the right is what I will use. The one on the left is a NOS pipe for a '55 and '56 Studebaker C-K body that is for sale: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted August 17, 2016 Author Share Posted August 17, 2016 Update Tuesday August 16, 2016: Hot, hot, hot again today! Oh well, sweating is supposed to be good for you (as long as you stay hydrated, which I did). Cut out and welded brackets today. Right in the middle of welding I hear a loud hissing, and find the mig welder gas regulator is blowing hard out of the little vent hole. So take it off, get in the car, and go to the welding supply (AirGas place). Yes, they can rebuild it but it has to be sent off, and a new Victor regulator is cheaper (with my discount) than rebuilding the old one. So, wallet is $71 lighter, but I'm welding again. Nothing interesting to take pictures of. The brackets are what hold the stand together. It is designed to come apart so it can be stored without taking up a bunch of room, so a little more work than zapping together some square tubing. Tomorrow will cut the square tubing after work, then can mock up the main frame and weld on the attachment brackets. Maybe pictures on Thursday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 Update Labor Day Sept 9, 2016: Still working on the engine test/break in stand. Had a number of delays due to other 'stuff' getting in the way, but the major portion is almost done. Got the frame done, casters mounted, and engine/bellhousing mounts done. Getting ready to start on a couple of easy (hopefully ) things like the battery support and gas tank support. The only 'harder' thing left will be the gauge/control panel; have not got that worked out in my mind yet, plus a mounting system for the radiator. The stand is designed to be broken down for easier storage, plus the engine/bellhousing mounts are adjustable for different engines. It's also capable of mounting/running a Studebaker V8 with a manual or automatic transmission. It's designed to work with anything from a 4-banger to a blown iron early Chrysler Hemi. You know the drill: "when in doubt, make it stout". Hopefully some video of the progress later this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted September 15, 2016 Author Share Posted September 15, 2016 (edited) Update Thursday Sept 15, 2016: Not a huge amount of progress, have had a lot going on. Last weekend we went to a Studebaker meet in Maggie Valley NC, and had a really good time. Here is a sort video showing the progress on the engine test stand so far: https://youtu.be/QkWpJOVyRj8 Edited September 15, 2016 by r1lark (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 (edited) Arizona/New Mexico/Nevada Trip Update: My wife and I just got back from a 2-week trip to Arizona, New Mexico, and Nevada. We drove out to Scottsdale AZ in a Penske rental truck to bring my younger son his furniture/stuff that he had stored at our house (figure that was the most efficient way of getting it out of our house ), then rented a car and toured AZ, NM, and NV for about 9 days. We flew back from Phoenix yesterday. We saw a lot of other interesting cars, including Kaisers, Willys Aero, Crosleys, etc. In Santa Fe we stumbled on the annual Santa Fe Concours which is a three-day show. On Saturday morning they have a 'show' in the square before the cars leave on a driving tour; there were Packards, Auburns, a very early original unrestored Shelby Cobra, a Cunningham, Sunbeam Tiger, a Glasspar G2 running a Desoto hemi and many other neat cars. Here are a few pictures (in the next three posts): More in the next post..................... Edited October 1, 2016 by r1lark (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 (edited) More from the Santa Fe Concours, post 2 of 3: At the Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona, there is what is supposedly a '32 Studebaker sitting on the old Route 66 roadbed. Can anyone verify the year? I have a few more pictures but didn't want to load too many: More to follow................... Edited October 1, 2016 by r1lark (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 (edited) More cars from the Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada trip..............post 3 of 3: A '38 Plymouth being driven in Boulder City Nevada (near Hoover Dam): For Dale, a Crosley in a museum in Wickenburg AZ: And a 1931 Auburn (for sale) in the Route 66 Museum in Santa Rosa NM: And a 1966 Chrysler 300 hardtop at the same museum: And finally, for Martin (Laughing Coyote), a Ford 406 FE engine with 3-2 bbl setup at the Route 66 Museum: Hope everyone enjoys these. Edited October 1, 2016 by r1lark (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Hey Paul, Hope you had a good time. Thanks for sharing the pictures. The 406 is pretty sweet. How close did you get to Tucson? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 38 minutes ago, Laughing Coyote said: Hey Paul, Hope you had a good time. Thanks for sharing the pictures. The 406 is pretty sweet. How close did you get to Tucson? Martin, the closest we got to Tucson was Phoenix. We were all over AZ from Phoenix north, but didn't go south. Is Vail close to Tucson? We had a great time, even the drive out was nice -- a lot of changing scenery to look at on I-40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 I'm about 20 miles east of Tucson just off the I-10. The scenery does change a lot from NC to the southwest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8TV Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 On 10/1/2016 at 4:29 PM, r1lark said: And finally, for Martin (Laughing Coyote), a Ford 406 FE engine with 3-2 bbl setup at the Route 66 Museum: Hope everyone enjoys these. Interesting to see the dual fuel filter cans on this one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWLawrence Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 r1lark, great to see the photos of the vehicles parked around the Santa Fe Plaza. This is a feature event of the Santa Fe Concorso. We go back to Santa Fe each year at this time to visit with family and friends (I am a Santa Fe native, but now living in Austin) and do some volunteer work for the Concorso. I was there on Saturday morning helping to park the vehicles. We had 70 participants driving the Mountain Tour. Two cars failed to proceed. The 1934 Packard and a 356 Posche. Both had ignition problems; however they were able to get to the field and be displayed on Sunday. The Packard was still running on only 4-cylinders, but was able to make it to receive its first in class award. It is an especially nice time to be in North Central New Mexico and the Concorso is growing into a major regional event. Dennis Gage was there filming for a future "My Classic Car". Donald Osborne was the MC for the Sunday event, his second time at the Concorso awards presentations. I took photos of all the class winners and working on getting them downsized so can post here. Thanks for posting the photos. (o[]o) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted October 6, 2016 Author Share Posted October 6, 2016 Thanks for the comments JW. We were just in Santa Fe as part of our touring AZ, NM, NV and I saw the cars out of the corner of my eye.......much to my wife's consternation . But I believe she enjoyed looking at the wide variety of the cars, as I did. In fact, I had to look online later to figure out what was going on. This was the first time I ever saw a Cunningham in the flesh. I was also intrigued with what looked like an unrestored very early Shelby Cobra, sitting right next to an AC Ace. Also liked the Glasspar G2 with the DeSoto hemi. We walked around the square, looked at the cars, took some pictures, and then went on to other sighseeing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted December 22, 2016 Author Share Posted December 22, 2016 (edited) Wow, been three months since I've posted on this thread. Not a whole lot going on as far as the GT Hawk but have managed to get some done on the engine test stand. Other stuff getting in the way, I'm sure most of you know how it is. Did want to show the latest on the engine test stand. Got the radiator mount done; it's adjustable forward and back for different engines (ie, 6 cylinder, V8, etc). Note that the plan is NOT to run a engine-mounted fan when testing/running an engine on the stand -- call me a coward, but that just seems like an accident waiting to happen, even with some type of shroud. Will either use an electric fan (will see what I can find at the U-Pull It -- suggestions much appreciated ) or may just put a box fan in front of the radiator. The battery holder and gas can holder are done. Next is to mount the starter solenoid to the battery holder and figure out what length battery cables are needed. The fuel line will be a simple hose (with a marine siphon bulb) from the gas can to the fuel pump. BTW, that is not the GT Hawk engine, it's the engine that was in my '61 Hawk when I bought it. It was just the most accessible engine with bellhousing to mock up in the stand. Next is to get the gauges and electrical switches installed in the mini-control panel and do the wiring. That's the control panel attached to the radiator support. I've got a throttle control on order that will mount to the side of the panel. Plan on just a oil pressure and water temp gauge, and a ignition switch. The panel has room to mount a tach, but I really think the tach on my engine analyzer will work out just as well and probably more accurate than a cheap tach -- we will see. I have figured out what gauges to get, so those will get ordered tonight. The ignition switch will be a spare Stude switch - no need to pay for one when I have one already. I've test fit the exhaust pipes to the engine, they fit good. Will run a single exhaust on the stand using some NOS head pipes that I had. Will have to scrounge up a muffler and some lengths of exhaust pipe. Here are the pics: Edited December 22, 2016 by r1lark Hopefully fixed pictures (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 2 hours ago, r1lark said: Here are the pics: Hey Paul, those links are to the Stude club forum and viewers must log in to view them. Most here won't have a userid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted December 22, 2016 Author Share Posted December 22, 2016 (edited) 16 hours ago, Spinneyhill said: Hey Paul, those links are to the Stude club forum and viewers must log in to view them. Most here won't have a userid? Thanks Spinneyhill, didn't realize that would happen. Hopefully this is fixed now................I uploaded the pics to the AACA forum, and they are on my original post #76. Edited December 22, 2016 by r1lark (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 Looking pretty sweet Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted December 24, 2016 Author Share Posted December 24, 2016 On 12/22/2016 at 7:58 PM, Laughing Coyote said: Looking pretty sweet Paul. Thanks Martin. I tried to put it together on the cheap as much as I could, using stuff I had on hand. The main square tubing and the casters I did have to purchase. Wanted something that I could use for a number of different engines......4 cylinders, 6 cylinders, and V8s.........plus wanted to be able to disassembly it easily to stash it out of the way. Several folks have asked me why the paint, but it may sit outside some (like it is doing now) and didn't want it to rust up. I hope you have a good Christmas and a safe happy New Years, Martin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now