Removing 37 straight eight

[Mutt's37Buick]

I'm preparing to remove the engine and transmission from my 37 Roadmaster (320 straight 8).

Would like to keep it together as much as possible

1) What accessorys are required to be removed before removing it?

2) What are the best lift points for engine?

Thanks

[FLYER15015]

Mutt

Being as heavy as these straight 8's are, what are you lifting it out with ? In the old days we used an "A" frame and a chain hoist.

I would pull the intake/exhaust manifolds, starter and generator, and of course the radiator. If you are using a rented engine puller, I'd pull the head. I've had people say it's easier to pull the whole front clip, than try to pick it up over the front end. Just depends on the room/ equipment available.

Mike in Colorado

PS When you do this, don't forget to post lots of pictures for those that follow.............

[pacrat]

i just put one in a 32,2 8 foot web slings and 2 shakles worked great ,had to take out steering and leave trans behind

[danhar1960]

My vote would be to remove the front clip. A little extra work but it would make the job soooooooo much easier and prevent smashing, denting and chipping of the firewall and all the sheet metal that's around the engine trying to maneuver the thing out. While you have the clip off look at the other things that are a bug to do. For example, shocks would be easy to access to change/replace/repair with it off.

Danny

[trp3141592]

Hi,

While you have the clip off look at the other things that are a bug to do. For example, shocks would be easy to access to change/replace/repair with it off.

Danny

Amen to Danny's comment. But try not to let it get out of control! A few years ago a single hinge screw came loose from the cabinet under our kitchen sink. $20,000+ later we had a whole new kitchen--all done because "it's better to do [fill in the blank] while it's so easily accessible..."

Still aching...

--Tom

[Mutt's37Buick]

Thanks for the feedback.

I have the front sheetmetal and radiator removed.

I bought a engine lift from a buddy that has enough capacity.

I have a "Motors factory" manual that tells some details but does not tell how to lift the engine.

If I remove the exhaust manifold then I could use those bolt points.

1) I see two bolts sticking out the pass side or engine, are they lift points?

2) Are there instructions in any service manuals?

Thanks

[danhar1960]

Hi,

Amen to Danny's comment. But try not to let it get out of control! A few years ago a single hinge screw came loose from the cabinet under our kitchen sink. $20,000+ later we had a whole new kitchen--all done because "it's better to do [fill in the blank] while it's so easily accessible..."

Still aching...

--Tom

Ha ha Tom, I work for a kitchen company (CNC programmer) and you'd be surprised at how replacing a few doors or a new bench top for a bit of a tart up very quickly turns into : Well, we may as well replace the carcasses as the old ones are stuffed. The old cook top would look crappy on a new bench top. We should get a new oven to match the new cook top. Is there a range hood that matches the oven and cook top ?? We should replace the splash back too and now we'll have to do the floor because the old tiles will look out of place. We'd like a dishwasher if we can fit it in somewhere and can we have a few power outlets added around the kitchen ??........................................................................

I hear your pain regularly mate. :)

It reminds me of my MG. It was only going to be a valve grind and just drive it.... Pfffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffft.

Danny

[1937-44]

I don't know if I would suggest it and I've never tried it but according to the 1937 Buick Shop Manual page 6-17 it reads; "The practice of lifting the engines by hooks inserted under the rocker arm shaft will not harm the aluminum brackets". Carl

[DonMicheletti]

Most of these guys are right. However a couple of thoughts. Dont take anything off that doesnt need to come off. Yes, they are heavy, but if you have a good hoist that would be no problem.

I lifted my Roadmaster engine and trans (minus shift lever) by removing just the rocker arm shaft and using front and rear bolts from that in the head. I'd be a little afraid to lift via the rocker shaft for fear the aluminum stanchions might break - I have seen them broken from a lift.

No need to remove the steering column, manifolds, water pump, generator or starter unless you just want to. Might help to take out the rear engine mounts though. I'm pretty sure you do have to remove the transmission mount (it has been a long time for me).

I wouldnt even think of trying to pull the engine with the front clip on. You'd have to lift a mile in the air for that.

Don

[39BuickEight]

I'd remove the starter, generator, (things that dont require fluid) etc. because they are so easy to remove, if for no other reason than it would make it just a little less cumbersome.

[FLYER15015]

Mutt,

I see you have received some good input, but to your most recent questions, if you have the front clip off, I would still pull the manifolds first, and then the head. You can use the head bolt holes in the block as your lifting points, and pulling the starter/ generator will give you a lighter lift and more wiggle room.

If I were doing this, I would also pull the dist and fuel pump, since they are so easy to get at and so expensive to replace.

You have not told us the purpose of the "pull". Is this for a rebuild or replacement ? If it's for a rebuild, I would be very interested in who is going to do the work. This is for us out west that may need to follow in your footsteps someday ......... Pictures would be nice as you move forward.

Mike in colorado

[jenz38]

If I pull my Engine completly out,always with Frontclip is removed. I screw off the front and the rear Headbolt (I use here Head Srews,no Bolts like OEM) and screw there under selfmade Brackets for lifting the Longblock (without Manifolds and Gaspump,of course). If you use the Manifoldbolts on the Driver Side ,the Engine will roll too much to the Passanger Side if you pull it.

My 2 Cents....

Edited January 7, 2013 by jenz38 (see edit history)

[pacrat]

on my 32 the crossmember under the trany is rivitet in and a torgue tube no driveshaft,two big problems,only one way undo the rear u bolts slide back the rearend drop the trany ,two web slings,they are strong and dont damage any thing,take the motor out complete,in and out in a day

[Guest JR9162]

I lifted a ruined 263 from a 50 Super with a standard engine hoist and chain. Hooked the chain up to the studs where the exhaust manifold bolts on to the head. The engine is heavy in the rear, best to use a leveling bar setup. Lifting it the way I did I got it to break free from the 3 speed (small series) tranny and it listed over to starboard about 6-7 degrees once I got it clear of the motor mounts. The front clip was off the car. Be careful not to let the hoist, or cherry picker tip over on you. The engine is heavy and difficult to manuver while up in the air. A friend kept it from swinging around on me as I pulled the engine clear of the chassis. Even if you don't have a helper it's smart to have an observer close by to run for help if you drop the engine on yourself. When the tranny input shaft clears the bellhousing, the tranny will sag, being held in the car by its rear mount and the torque tube. It would be smart to place a support board and jack under the front of the tranny to prevent it from sagging and potentially jamming up on the bellhousing, and/or damaging both. If you need I can look in my 38 Shop manual and give you the instructions for engine removal listed therein. John

[Mark Shaw]

I pulled and reinstalled my 31 engine without removing the front clip, but it took three of us several hours to get it back in.... I had to remove the tranny support to do it....

Remove the front parts to save time and effort.

[jenz38]

I lifted a ruined 263 from a 50 Super with a standard engine hoist and chain. Hooked the chain up to the studs where the exhaust manifold bolts on to the head. The engine is heavy in the rear, best to use a leveling bar setup. Lifting it the way I did I got it to break free from the 3 speed (small series) tranny and it listed over to starboard about 6-7 degrees once I got it clear of the motor mounts. The front clip was off the car. Be careful not to let the hoist, or cherry picker tip over on you. The engine is heavy and difficult to manuver while up in the air. A friend kept it from swinging around on me as I pulled the engine clear of the chassis. Even if you don't have a helper it's smart to have an observer close by to run for help if you drop the engine on yourself. When the tranny input shaft clears the bellhousing, the tranny will sag, being held in the car by its rear mount and the torque tube. It would be smart to place a support board and jack under the front of the tranny to prevent it from sagging and potentially jamming up on the bellhousing, and/or damaging both. If you need I can look in my 38 Shop manual and give you the instructions for engine removal listed therein. John

Here you can see again: OLD CARS ARE VERY DANGEROUS !!

[Daves1940Buick56S]

Here you can see again: OLD CARS ARE VERY DANGEROUS !!

Yes!! They can empty your wallet in a flash!

[Mutt's37Buick]

Are there special steps required to remove the distibutor?

If I mark the position of the distributor, and put it back in the same position, should it then be close to current timing?

Thanks

[danhar1960]

If I mark the position of the distributor' date=' and put it back in the same position, should it then be close to current timing?

[/quote']

The answer would YES but on the proviso that you do no rotate the engine what so ever. Do the math on the chances of that happening.

You haven't said why you are removing the engine.

Don't worry about marking it. We have discussed setting the distributor here several times. You can go back and find the discussion or come back and it can be gone over again. It's not that hard to do.

So, what's the plan once the engine is out ???

Danny

Edited January 9, 2013 by danhar1960 (see edit history)

[Mutt's37Buick]

Thanks for your help.

From what I have seen it is much more expensive to have an engine from this year rebuilt than it is to buy a rebuilt engine.

Since I have a limited budget and I'm building a daily driver I'm planning on installing a slightly newer Buick engine with insert bearings and more horsepower.

Edited January 9, 2013 by Mutt's37Buick (see edit history)

[jenz38]

I think ,when I rebuild a Motor,I know what is done on it. On a bought,fresh painted One,the Seller can tell me any happy Story .

It make me also perplex that they (Seller) can rebuild a Motor cheaper than Ourself ?? In most cases they can't answering exactly what they have fixed includ all meassurements.

You want more Power ? No Problem,then I advice you the 263 Motor from the '50-'53 Special with the "Carburetion Compound" System from the `41 Special.

Then you have nearly 150-160 healthy HP (with more Tuning,much more ...like me :cool: )

Here some Pics from my One:

In this Moment it's my old 248 Spare Motor from a '49 Dyaflow Special.(Thats why the the wrong Color)

This is the tuned 263. In the next time it goes back into the Car.

Edited January 10, 2013 by jenz38 (see edit history)

[McDar]

I never lift an engine with anything that is attached to two or more points. This makes the engine semi rigid and harder to position. If the hoist is attached at one position only then the chain (or cable) will let the engine roll, tilt, twist, or a combination of everything at once with no binding or having to lift a lot. Many places sell lift plates for V8's that attach to the carb flange but one has to make a very simple one for inline engines. A peice of angle iron the length of the rocker shaft with holes in one flange for at least two rocker stand bolts to pass through ( I like to subsitute 2 grade 8 bolts 1/2" longer) and a series of holes in the other flange so the lift chain can attach to give the desired angle. I use a clevis that can be easily moved in these holes. With a long engine it is often necessary to lower the engine with it almost standing on end till it can rest on something and then move the clevis to raise it level. I think you will like working with an engine that can be easily maneuvered.

[jenz38]

Yes,thats a good Idea too,

for the next Motorpulling I buy me this adjustable Crossmember :

BGS Motor Montage Traverse ausbalancierbar Getriebe 350 kg | eBay