buick41 Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 The manifold came out well after cleaning and slightly blasting , no cracks and after some days of oiling i even got the heater riser working again . I know its not the right color yet but i painted it to prevent rust . I Do have to search for the right color of the engine , i gues its a kind of green / blue paint what was Original on the engine and inlet manifold but what kind of color was on the exhaust manifold ? ready Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 a lot of sheet metal parts are at the powder coater yet .. just to prevent rust and give it a good layer of paint to give it another 70 years in a Dutch climate .. l Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 So now i am busy with the chassis . I removed the front and rear suspension . It took me a while to look for a save way to remove the front springs and not got hurt by a tensioned spring that jumped out of its seat... So by using two studs i could easely lower them controlled .removing the bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 front shocks .. not working at all anymore Today i cleaned the shocks and tested them , first got the old oil out an than i filled up with new fresh oil to test them .. now they are happy to stand up again i hope the won't leak . (its difficult to let them overhauled overhere . ) Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Brake and clutch pedal ....... after disconnecting the both pedals i was amazed how parts can be worn out after 73 years The bushes in the pedals were gone and were just rotating metal to metal . Also the clutch equalizer linkage was damaged .. Luckily i found the connection rod and clutch linkage new on Ebay So we now only have to rebore the pedals and put in some oversized Bushes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob McDonald Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 PAUL, you've been one busy boy! All these photos in one day makes it look like you've been flying through the job. Really, though, you've probably been working on this off-and-on since your last post in May, 2013. Nice work - your starter and shock absorbers look like new. You're clearly doing a quality job and we do appreciate this progress report. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41Roadmaster Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 OK, fellas, we now know who to send our Buicks to for quality restoration Paul, its been a pleasure seeing your progress. Truly inspirational! Our local airport has just announced direct flights to Belgium. How about a short drive over the border to pick me up in the BRAND NEW '41 Buick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Keep up the good work!Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 Thank you all for the nice replies. I guess indeed the buick is getting brand new . (Sorry .... :cool: ) . For a car George owend i can t do it for less. But i have a question for you guys. Where o where can i find detailed pictures of mechanical buick parts. I have the owners manual . But i miss the clear drawings. There are a few but its very poor. This week not much time to spend on the Buick. So Anderson i will pick you up in Belgium in a Volkswagon :-) regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Paul,Excellent photos and descriptions - I appreciate your English, which is very good. Thank you for showing us your work and I am looking forward to seeing more pictures and progress!Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 Thank you Geoff, i do my best altough it is not easy all the time to find the right words. But google translate helps me out Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pont35cpe Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Buick 41, has anyone mentioned that both of your Buick engines have side mounts? I think the side mount blocks were 1947-53.. I could be wrong... but, if so the engines could be either a 248 or 263. You`re doing a great job.. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Buick 41, has anyone mentioned that both of your Buick engines have side mounts? I think the side mount blocks were 1947-53.. I could be wrong... but, if so the engines could be either a 248 or 263. You`re doing a great job.. Tom First side mount was 1949. Inserts. Looking at the manifolds , for sure a 248 or 263. The 320 had a three piece exhaust manifold. But it too was a side mount from 1949. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 Ok Guys i think they are both 248 and i see nothing unusual comparing to the shop manual (yet ) :confused: but help me out , the engine number is 41245750 is that correct for the 1941 car ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 Hi I also tried something to preserve the original bolts and nuts a bit better than original . Because i couldt nearly loosen all the bolts without damaging them i tried to make my own little galvanize plant :eek: . I can bring al the parts to a company to let do it for me but the risk getting items lost is present .. and it is a hell of a job to find out wich bolt and nuts belongs to wich part. To prevent that used a 12 vdc battery charger or a power supply (minimum 3 amp.) 10 litres of white vinigar , 1 kg salt and 1 kg Sugar. Take a little piece of sinc and put the + voltage clamp on it and put it into the fluid . On the negative side you hang the parts you want to preserve . Yep ( chemicals are a part of my job) .. You need for the best results to sandblast the parts first and degrease them and clean them very good. Than you can dip them into the fluid against the negative side. Within a few minutes the parts get covered with sinc. its amazing to sea . its just gives the old bolts a bit more protection against rust. and its fun to do . you need a spoon to "fry" your bolts i know it looks like a frying pan but the results are really great . Here the mixture is bubbeling nice and slowly the sinc is going from + to - . Take care to ventilate the room ! because a bit of H2 gas is arising out of the proces. When you do this yourselve with low voltage equippement (grounded) your common sense and no kids arround. Than the risk that something goes wrong is nothing . results . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 Some picture of the old and new engine and transmission mounts, it was really time to renew them .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pont35cpe Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Paul, there may be other differences in the 248vs263 engines, bore on the 248 is 3 3/32" and 3 3/16" on the 263, easy to measure with the head off.. I have a `41 248 dual carb engine that I`m rebuilding for resale, engine #44376343. I don`t know the range of engine #`s. Maybe someone will jump in and state the #s.. My engine # is on the right side of the block and on the front of the block under the water pump, they match on mine.. My dual carb engine has a breather tube from the valve cover to the batwing air cleaner, no breather out the side cover, makes me wonder if your dual carb set up was added later.. and the linkage looks like someones shade tree engineering, pretty crafty... Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 Hi Tom , The engine i am overhauling is the original engine of the "black" Buick and that one was fitted with the single carburettor . The red engine is also a 248 but there are no numbers on it anymore that engine needs to be rebuild complete (but its my spare parts car). The engine came without an oilfilter and they closed the holes in the valvecover and in the air filter for the breather tube with a piece of metal. So some conversions were made. (welded carb. linkages together etc. etc )I was first planned to build the dual carb manifold on the engine i am working on, but that manifold is not 100%, heater risers are stucked and the material is very thin. So I choose to use the Original manifold with 1 carb. Beter all the parts working correct and mounted once than put things together and do it twice . But if anyone know if the enginenumber is correct for the 41 Buick that would be great . regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glassesguy Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Paul: 1941 engines started with Engine number 4074859. 1942 Engine numbers started at 4457941. 1946 Engine numbers started at 40558037 and continued through 1947. 1948 Engine numbers started at 4999881. 1949 Engine numbers started at 5220972. Double check the numbers stamped on your block(s). Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glassesguy Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Paul: I also echo Tom's observation in post #52 regarding the front engine mounting bosses cast into the crankcase of both engines. That was a characteristic of 1948 and later blocks. As the original engines wore out or needed replacing, a later engine could be installed by bolting the original front engine support to the replacement block. I enjoy your posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 Ok Dave i learn all the time. I have to take the head off soon to measure wich engine it is. And to see what kind of parts i need . Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pont35cpe Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Dave-Glassesguy, I was told that this dual carb engine I bought was from a `41 Buick.. Can you explain the #s, the # on the side of the engine, 8 digits(44376343), and # on the front under the water pump, 7 digits(4376343). Why is there an extra 4? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glassesguy Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Dave-Glassesguy, I was told that this dual carb engine I bought was from a `41 Buick.. Can you explain the #s, the # on the side of the engine, 8 digits(44376343), and # on the front under the water pump, 7 digits(4376343). Why is there an extra 4? TomFirst 4 stands for Series 40. Series 40 and 50 used the same block, so the number on the side of the engine shows into what series that specific engine was eventually placed. Postwar engines placed the series number as a suffix with a slight space after the main number. I have a 1947 engine with a space and the numeral 5 as a suffix so I know the engine originally came from a Series 50 Super. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nahuelsan Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Hi Paul!Great thread you are doing. I'm restoring a Buick '47 convertible and right now is the time for the speed-meter. I'm stuck there because I can't remove the pointer to proceed the rest of the restoration. Can you help me and give me some advise about this issue?I really appreciate the help you can provide me.Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Hi Nahuel. Becareful not bend anything. But you should simply pull it off from the axle. Maybe they glued it together in the past. But normally you can easely remove it. Goodluck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Finally i had separated the frame from the rear axle and degreased it as much as possible , i had to weld a bodymount that had come loose from the frame but now its ready for sandblasting , the last big cleaning job Frame .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Cleaning all the brake parts and bolts , the rear hub drums are really bad so i have to find new some new ones . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 The rear shock's were very dirty not only at the outside but also the inside. Old sticky oil was blocking the work of the valves , so i had to clean them out with a degreaser to get rid of the dirt. flushed them again with oil an after that i filled them up with the right oil. they are now hanging to dry of there second layer of paint. Nice to have them back working again . ready ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Finished the rear and front springs and painted them 3 times and finished dark grey, i know its not the Original color but it is a bit of a personal touch , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 more pic's of the front suspensions parts... and now waiting for the new parts i ordered in the US :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 The Rear stabilizer , including new rubber bushes . so a new week is coming up ,Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Looking good!Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nahuelsan Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Paul, congratulations for the job you're doing it's very prolix, and thank you for the speedometer neddle removal advise. You were right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 (edited) Nathuelsan , Good to hear from you that the speedometer removal worked.In the mean time i proceed to strip the last parts . one of them was the rear axle ..... To remove the axle shafts it took some time. The shop manual was not very clear to that subject and i wanted to renew the bearings and seals so with some technical help from a forum member thanks..Keith . It worked.! So i took some pictures of it and that might help other forum members in the future .adjusting nut of the carrier bearing .. Edited February 27, 2014 by buick41 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 I brought the frame the rear axle and the torque tube to the powdercoater today so i have finally time to clean up the workshop and degrease the floor and tools. this tool i found between the chassis and the grease .. so a mechanic must have lost it long time ago ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 Shoot, that looks like a tool I lost a long time ago. LOL... But seriously, nice job on the rear axle disassembly pictures. That was very appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 Thanks John , do i have to sent your tool back ;-) lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 No, I bought a replacement last week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 After a busy weekend ...A few pics of the first powdercoated parts , i decided to coat the valve cover and oil pan also black. the front innerfenders (not on photo ) came out great too. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick41 Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 I had still to clean up the gearbox . and i wanted to renew the bearings so my saturdayafternoon was spent .... on flushing the box first with gasoline . The box itself is a great piece of technique . Its stil shifts after all those years but it was full of old clogged oil . For removing the bearings i had to remove more parts than i wanted in first place but i got the two selector shafts out so there was space to take out the gears . front view becarefull not to loose the Detent spring and ball , there located on both shafts , before removing the shaft you can take out the spring from underneath the housing with a screwdriver. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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