Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

I have questions about my 1955 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe!!!

carburetor choke chrysler windsor number oil

  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 sephrin

sephrin

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 6 posts

Posted 18 October 2012 - 05:05 AM

Hello,

I am extremely new to restoring cars, but i have a passion to learn about them. This is my first car and currently I am simply trying to remove the oil pan to clean it, and i'm not sure what exactly is going on but i must be missing something really simple because i have drained the oil, and removed all of the bolts but still, no matter how i move the pan, there is always about two inches of clearance i still need to be able to remove the pan. the tye rods seem to get in the way but i have lowered and raised the car and nothing helps. is there something i need to remove to get to it?

Another problem i have had is finding the correct part or parts to be placed atop the carburetor. right now i have to use a manual choke to start and run it, and the car only gets about 35mph. if anybody has information on those parts or even those parts for sale please let me know.

I know this is a lot but bear with me for this last question: How can i match the engine and chassis numbers? i have both and i am pretty sure they should match, i just need concrete proof.

Thank you all for your time.

#2 JACK M

JACK M

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 2,656 posts
  • LocationThe Great North West, Oregon

Posted 18 October 2012 - 03:55 PM

You probably need to drop some steering parts to snake the pan out of there.
The Captain is in the house.

#3 keiser31

keiser31

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 20,648 posts
  • LocationPhoenix, OREGON

Posted 18 October 2012 - 04:03 PM

Maybe the oil pump pickup is hindering the removal.

1931 Dodge Brothers DH6 business coupe w/ wire wheels
1931 Dodge Brothers DH6 business coupe w/ wood wheels (my 1st car and still have it)
and visions of my past old cars....


#4 Rusty_OToole

Rusty_OToole

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 7,413 posts

Posted 19 October 2012 - 01:56 AM

The pan needs to clear certain parts like the crankshaft and oil pump. Usually you have to unbolt the motor mounts and jack the engine up 3 or 4 inches.

When new your car had a top speed of 100 MPH or a hair more. It is probably in need of a tuneup, something that went out of fashion about 25 years ago. It might be a good idea to do a compression test to see where you stand. If the engine is worn out a tuneup won't fix it but if you have decent compression it should be possible to get a lot more out of it than that.

#5 StillOutThere

StillOutThere

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 524 posts

Posted 20 October 2012 - 12:52 PM

Do you own a shop manual? If so it will outline the oil pan removal procedure. On some cars the front journal of the crankshaft, if at its lowest point of its throw, will get in the way of the front of the pan. Simply requires turning the crankshaft a quarter or more of its rotation. If you don't have a shop manual, it sounds like you had better get one. Whether its your first car in the hobby or the one hundredth, having the shop manual is pretty basic.

Loosen and rotate your distributor a few degrees one way or another. If it doesn't improve, rotate the other way. Add a couple degrees at a time until you get real improvement. Its in the shop manual what your final setting should be.

#6 c49er

c49er

    bob

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 868 posts

Posted 20 October 2012 - 02:40 PM

You will need to remove the longer steering shaft to remove the pan and also probably need to remove the large cast iron lower bell housing pan too.. You will need a tie rod puller tool to do the steering linkage shaft or rod.

#7 Bob Call

Bob Call

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,314 posts

Posted 25 October 2012 - 12:05 AM

The engine and chassis number do not match. The production serial number is on a tag spot welded to the drivers' side front door pillar and will be seven digits if I remember correctly. The engine number is found on the top front of the engine block behind the water pump on the upper surface of the block immediately in front of the lifter valley cover. For the 55 Windsor it should have a prefix of WE55 followed by a 4 or maybe 5 diget production sequence number. The New Yorker has a prefix of NE55, the Imperial CE55 and the 300 Series is 3NE55. Your Windsor engine is a 301 cubic inch polysphere head engine. All the other models have the 331 CI Hemi engine. Bonneville racers love the 301 block because is the max CI for 5 liter class and all the hemi stuff fits.





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: carburetor, choke, chrysler windsor, number, oil

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users