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1918 Bearcat Engine Block problems


Jonathan Miller

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We have a problem with the block on our 1918 Bearcat. It has a crack on the water jacket, causing water to leak into the cylinder. Is this a common problem, does anyone know?

We'd possibly be interested in obtaining a good replacement block, or even having one cast - does anyone have any recommendations, or indeed a spare block?

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We have a problem with the block on our 1918 Bearcat. It has a crack on the water jacket, causing water to leak into the cylinder. Is this a common problem, does anyone know?

We'd possibly be interested in obtaining a good replacement block, or even having one cast - does anyone have any recommendations, or indeed a spare block?

Maybe a cylinder sleeve is in order?

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Thanks for the replies, folks. The engine in question is a monobloc, so doesn't have a cylinder head as such. The crack, which I will get a picture of, has occured on the cylinder top. Directly above the cylinder tops is a large water gallery.

One line of thought is that the pistons are the wrong shape and are causing too much compression. They are domed and I *think* that they should be flat topped. Anyone have any ideas on their correct shape? I could really do with knowing the compression height - the measurement between the centre line of the wrist pin and the top of the piston. Maybe Jay Leno would let me take his apart and measure them :)

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Hi, go to a airplane or boat restoration shop, shipyard or industrial machine yard. Ask around for the oldest or most experienced mechanic, and ask him if he knows of a very good metal stitcher. It is a process of repairing using no heat. It works very well. Look it up on the Internet. BE SURE TO USE SOMEONE WHO ONLY DOES STICHING, not a jack of all trades. They do amazing repairs that last. Good luck, Ed

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more.......

[h=1]Metal Stitching[/h]stitch1.jpg When a cast iron component is broken or cracked as a result of misuse or overload, a decision must be made whether to repair or replace the cast iron component. If the decision is made to repair the component, one should consider using the cold stitching process as performed by Metal Surgery.

The advantages of such a repair are that it:

  • Dampens and absorbs compression stresses and spreads tensile strains.
  • Provides a good expansion joint for such jobs as cylinder liners.
  • Distributes the load away from the fatigue point.
  • Maintains relieved conditions of inherent internal stresses where cracking occurred.
  • Provides a low coefficient of expansion against repaired metal.
  • Maintains alignment of original surfaces and obviates machining.
  • Work can be done on-site with subsequent savings in time and dismantling.

stitch2.jpg Metal Surgery utilizes expert technicians to perform the repairs. Our process is a proven one with no record of failures. We are not in the business of selling stitching components or schooling outside future practicians. We believe that a reliable repair requires experienced technicians and good engineering know-how.

Metal Surgery warrantees its repairs. Our cold stitching process has been granted approval under ISO9001 Standard.

A Brief Description of the Process for Crack Repairs After determining the extent of cracking, lines of holes are drilled at right angles to the crack. The holes are then converted to slots by connecting the holes. Preformed locks are inserted in the slots forming a connection across the crack. Then holes are drilled along the crack line between each stitch. These holes are tapped for placing special screws to fill the crack. The stitched area is ground to conform to the base metal contour, thus completing the repair.

Most metals can be stitched when welding is not feasible.

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I would pull the entire motor apart, strip it down by chemical cleaning to remove all the rust, stitch the bad areas, then send it to locktite to have them do a sealing treatment on it. The treatment will fill all the pores and casting flow imperfections, as well as seal up any other problems. Compression will not cause a casting to fail, that engine is very low compression, and with a big bore and long stroke, it would tear itself apart if it had too much compression. It probably has more than one bad spot in it if the issues are from a casting flow or freeze crack. I doubt you will ever find a spare block, so I would be careful in who and how I repair the block. We did a Cadillac V16 block with 57 inches of cracks in it by stitching and it has worked fine for over 20 years, the Locktite treatment we used on a 1897 Haynes and it is also holding up fine. Let us know how you make out, Ed

It's better to be a Stutz Nutz than to drive a Worster Mercer!

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We have a problem with the block on our 1918 Bearcat. It has a crack on the water jacket, causing water to leak into the cylinder. Is this a common problem, does anyone know?

We'd possibly be interested in obtaining a good replacement block, or even having one cast - does anyone have any recommendations, or indeed a spare block?

The late Paul Freehill of Fort Wayne, Indiana, the acknowledged expert on Stutzs of these years, told me that failure of the blocks in that location was increasingly common, which he felt was the result of a combination of age, fatigue and poor casting technology back then. He indicated that welding "sometimes" worked.

I know that he cast some engine blocks in recent years -- there was a video posted showing him starting up a completed engine incorporating one of the new blocks. You might follow up with some of the Stutz Club members to determine whether any of the Freehill blocks are available -- or if anyone has a spare.

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Guest Brian White
We have a problem with the block on our 1918 Bearcat. It has a crack on the water jacket, causing water to leak into the cylinder. Is this a common problem, does anyone know?

We'd possibly be interested in obtaining a good replacement block, or even having one cast - does anyone have any recommendations, or indeed a spare block?

I have one of the blocks that Paul cast and machined. I also have most of his patterns. My email address is brianw@carolinastonesetting.com and my phone numbers is 919 868 2629. Brian White

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