wex65 Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 So, I am rebuilding the front suspension on a recent purchase, a 1955 Buick Roadmaster.I am new to this type of vehicle so apologies if my questions appear basic!I have stripped down one corner and am in the process of rebuilding the upper control arm inner bushing and appear to have a problem.You can see from the photo that one end of the bushing has screwed in fine, the other however has not. I have applied quite some pressure but the cap only turns in maybe 1-2 rotations before halting. The mounting bar rotates smoothly on it so I know it is on square. I tried the other cap (which is fully on the other end in the photos) and that had the same issue.I tried putting one of the old caps on and that went on fine. It does appear that the thread cut into the inside of the arm end is most odd, not very clearly defined.So, what is it that wears in these parts? Is there anything in the end caps that 'wears' and if not is there any disadvantage at all in re-using one of the old caps?Also, after cleaning the arm I notice what look like a weld repair in it, see second photo. Is it possible this was the original method of assembly or is this indeed a repair? Don't know if this is something I should be worried about. The arm seems very solid...Any help appreciated.Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 I looked at my spare 1956 upper arms and they both looked as yours with a welded part in the middle.I you are loosen the cap on left side first picture 1-2 or more rotaitons and then try to rotate 1-2 on the right side ,if that works the angle must be a little bit wrong,or maybe you need to rotate more on left side to rotate the right side against the opposite cap.Just a thought.Or try to start to skrew the caps just 1 rotation on each side,then 2,then 3. Leif in Sweden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wex65 Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 LeifThanks for the reply. Unfortunately even if I remove the cap that does go on AND the bushing bar, the bad cap will not turn on. An old cap will though. Neither new cap will go on the right end. telling me the thread is maybe somehow differently cut.Again, thanks for the input.Regards,Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 (edited) The weld is correct and normal. The threads used for the bushings (caps) are quite abnormal looking. That's also correct and normal. That said, you are most likely installing reproduction parts. It's undesirable but normal for repro parts to NOT fit like OEM parts. Some vendors have better repro parts than others and sometimes all the vendors have the same parts source. In my experiance the caps are VERY tight in the arm. Actually an interference fit. I've always had to install them by coating the threads with anti-seize and using a good impact wrench at the highest torque setting. I would say if any bushings screw in easily they are too loose rather than the others being too tight...........Bob Edited May 29, 2012 by Bhigdog (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wex65 Posted May 29, 2012 Author Share Posted May 29, 2012 Many thanks Bob. I will try again tomorrow with some anti-seize and more torque...Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wex65 Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 Success, managed to get the upper arm together with anti-seize and a breaker bar. Thanks Bob, I owe you one.However...the lower arm, I got one end in fine and the other...as hard as I tried it is about 1/8" from being completely in. Maybe two turns. I don't know if this is an issue but I am not a small guy and at one point with the control arm in a vice managed to lift the work bench complete with about 150-200 pounds of tools underneath it. Even then the cap wouldn't rotate any more.Next job, king pins. Need to work out how to get the pins replaced, I am guessing this is a job for a machine shop....Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 (edited) Success, managed to get the upper arm together with anti-seize and a breaker bar. Thanks Bob, I owe you one.However...the lower arm, I got one end in fine and the other...as hard as I tried it is about 1/8" from being completely in. Maybe two turns. I don't know if this is an issue but I am not a small guy and at one point with the control arm in a vice managed to lift the work bench complete with about 150-200 pounds of tools underneath it. Even then the cap wouldn't rotate any more.Next job, king pins. Need to work out how to get the pins replaced, I am guessing this is a job for a machine shop....PaulYou need an impact wrench.Easy enough to replace the king pin bushings and reassemble but they they need to be line bored or reamed to fit the pin. Personally I like to have them honed with a Sunnen type machine. Some old time auto stores still do this.............Bob Edited May 31, 2012 by Bhigdog (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wex65 Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 Yes, I think I need to invest in an impact wrench. Will grab one this PM. Since moving here from Ireland I miss many of my old tools back there. Time to restock...I found a local machine shop that is willing to take care of the kingpins so should have them both ready for reinstallation by Monday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wex65 Posted June 4, 2012 Author Share Posted June 4, 2012 (edited) An update, Bob was absolutely right. I put the arm in a vice and used a 650 ft lb impact wrench. even with this it took plenty of anti-seize and 5-10 minutes to get it fully tightened. had to run the wrench above the recommended psi to get the job done. I am amazed at just how tight these caps are.Now, unfortunately the passenger side upper control arm will not come out until the engine is raised 2 or so inches and the rear mounting bolt hits the engine mount, sigh...Paul Edited June 4, 2012 by wex65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted June 4, 2012 Share Posted June 4, 2012 Most likely an OEM bushing would have fit tight but easier. This is typical of repro stuff. A lot of the makers/vendors seem to have the "screw it, close enough" attitude..........Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Falabella Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 So where would one go to get the best repro front end kit? Seems like there may be a difference some in places fit and quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 I buy mine from Kanter. The fit and finish are OK but the rubber seals are nothing more than rubber rings. Woefully wrong for the purpose. Like I said. "Screw it, close enough".......Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wex65 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 An update for anyone performing the same job on their front end. I finally got the control arms rebuilt and back in place. The passenger side upper arm is blocked by the engine mount. I ended up having to unbolt the mount and jack the engine up about 2-3 inches to get the rearmost control arm mount bolt out. All is fine now.Bob, to your comment about the rubber rings, I agree...but what is the alternative?? The old ones had almost turned to a rubber/jelly mixture.HOPEFULLY my spindles/kingpins should be back from the machine shop today and I can get everything back together. New wheel cylinders will be going on and I can get the wheels back on this weekend. then, I will see if it can drive in a straight line and handle bends...! Actually, castor/camber is something I need to look at first. Looking forward to seeing reaction from local guys when I bring it in.Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Hey Paul,First thing is take your shop manual, because if you take it to a shop that is unfamiliar with the adjustment method, they will say your camber can't be adjusted. (they have to remove a zerk fitting) This scenario happened to me when I bought my 55 Special in 1986 after I had just graduated high school. I was too young to know any better, and too broke to be able to afford a manual. Ahh, the good old days Next advice take it to a shop on the "wrong side of the tracks" with a crotchety old fart smoking a cigar in the corner. If you're lucky, he will go straight for the upper control arm and remove the aforementioned zerk fitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wex65 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 yes, when removing the upper arms I realized the adjustment method. I will print the relevant service manual page and bring it with me.Machine shop just called, kingpins all done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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